Uncut Cloth

by Nasreen Askari

. 1999 clean bright copy

Genres: History

128 pages, Paperback

First published September 1, 1999

Reviews

[Katherine Cowley · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book focuses on saris, shawls, sashes, and other uses for uncut cloth in India and other areas of the South Asian subcontinent. I've always seen Indian women wearing saris and shawls, and I like understanding a little more about the meaning, fabric, and regional differences. That said, this book is really targeted to Westerners who know very little about Eastern clothing--it's a little like having a hundred page book, largely filled with full-page pictures, to explain all the clothing in North and South America and their history.

I had never realized that the idea of "uncut cloth" could be so important--that you make the cloth in its finished form, perhaps add embroidery or mirrors, and never cut it. Nasreen Askari writes, "Cloth is often imbued with a sanctity of its own. In the unsewn form, especially, it is considered holy or sacred and gifts consisting of lengths of cloth have deep-rooted resonances in many of South Asia's Hindu and Muslim religious traditions. It also constitutes an important form of social interaction, conforming to relationships dictated by family and community ties" (21).

Something else I learned was about the standard composition of a sari: there is almost always a field (the main section), an end-pieces (that will have a different pattern, colors, or extra embroidery), and borders. I suspect this is symbolic as well, though the author doesn't go into it.

Part of me wanted this book to give me more. I would've loved references to clothing from traditional Indian texts, and a section specifically on the symbolism. I was less interested in the two essays at the by other authors--there is one on trade and exports through history and another on the paisley shawl.

[Peter Tillman · Rating 4 out of 5]

This catalog of a 1999 show at Scotland's Paisley Museum is very, very nicely done. Written by three knowledgeable textile curators, the text is first-rate -- but what sold the book, for me anyway, was lots & lots of colorful, well-reproduced photos of Indian (and Pakistani) textiles. Most of these are (literally) museum pieces, but some are in the range of what ordinary mortals could collect.

I have a library copy in front of me, but intend to buy a copy -- particularly since (right now) used copies are available for the price of shipping. Judging from this copy's good appearance after 14 years of library service, it's a well-made book. Highly recommended for Indian textile fans.