The Bare Essentials series is an invaluable resource for anyone entering into the field oflingerie design. This volume summarizes the basics of underwear design, from sewing andconstruction to drafting and pattern grading; introducing these subjects in a manageablecapacity.Bare Essentials is organized into three main sections based on the complexities of theinformation provided. Included in this book are basic patterns for briefs and boyshorts.What you will • Construction methods using elastics and stretch fabrics• Manipulation of basic patterns• Pattern drafting from measurements• Developing grade rules and grading patterns
I have been working in the underwear industry for the last 10 years, so for me, this book was nothing new. This have good informations for somebody who start, but is at a beginner level. There is a boyshort design (with or without side seams) and a brief with instructions on how to sew them. Also a lot of patterns modification to make different styles, and some grading infos to make different sizes.
I'm currently on a kick where I've decided I don't have to wear clothing that is ill fitting and I might as well put my sewing machine to good use in fixing that. My biggest problem is everything below the waist. I'm perfectly happy with my shape but the ready to wear industry doesn't make clothing for shapes like mine.
This book appeals to the garment construction geek in me. It starts with basic assembly instructions (sample patterns in standard sizes are printed at the back of the book. They need to be copied and pasted together for use), and instructions for some variations on the two styles.
But the good stuff comes in the follow up chapters where the author walks you through drafting your own pattern based on your own measurements. The instructions go step by step, showing each line and curve that is drawn, with a clear explanation of how to do so. I haven't tried the method yet, but based on what I've read, the instructions seem very accessible and easy to duplicate.
There are a variety of charts and worksheets to help you determine how much negative ease to work into the garment, based on how much inherent stretch you have in your fabric, as well as information about elastic and other trims.
For those who might be looking at designing a line for retail distribution, there are also corresponding sections on grading, which I glossed over.
It's a surprisingly slim book and quick read but it's packed full of information. Looking forward to making a few fitting garments and seeing how they come together.