Some of the essays veer into irritating artcrit-jargon territory (not to mention the semioticians lurking in the T.O.C.), but on the whole it's a wonderful compendium of his career: great reproductions, plus a vivid depiction of a very odd artistic life. Definitely one of my all-time favorite painters, and I love him even more after absorbing this.
Oh and here's a quote from Ensor himself about his choice of palette:
Drenched in British purples, I have offered up my tones: pigeon breast, hind belly, balky mule lung, monkey bottom pink, lapis lazuli and malachite, excited nymph thigh, panther pee-pee, high-smelling hen hair, hedgehog in aspic, barrel-maker's brothel, revered rose, monkeybush, turkey-like white, sly violet, page's slipper, immaculate nun spring, unspeakable red, Ensor azure, affected yellow, mummy skull, rock-hard gray, brunt celadon, shop soiled smoke ring.