Naples Declared: A Walk Around the Bay

by Benjamin Taylor

It is a city of seemingly irreconcilable opposites, simultaneously glorious and ghastly. And it is Ben Taylor’s remarkable ability to meld these contradictions into a whole that makes this the exciting and original book it is. He takes his stroll around the bay with the acute sensitivity of a lover, the good humor of a friend, and the wisdom of a seeker who has immersed himself in all aspects of this contrapuntal culture. His curiosity leads him to many byways, both real and metaphoric, and his passion for this ancient city and its people becomes, in his graceful prose and amusing anecdotes, irresistibly contagious.

Genres: Italy, Travel, Nonfiction, History

205 pages, Hardcover

First published May 10, 2012

About the author

Benjamin Taylor is the author of a book of essays, Into the Open, and two novels, Tales Out of School, winner of the Harold Ribalow Prize, and The Book of Getting Even, a 2009 Barnes & Noble Discover Award Finalist, a 2008 Los Angeles Times Favorite Book of the Year, and a Ferro-Grumley Prize Finalist. In October 2009, The Book of Getting Even appeared as El Libro de la Venganza in Spain, where it was named a best book of the year by El Pais. In November 2010, Viking Press released Saul Bellow: Letters, edited by Taylor. Naples Declared: A Walk Around the Bay, a travel memoir from Marian Wood Books, is scheduled for 2012. Taylor is a graduate of Haverford College and Columbia University where he earned the doctorate in English and comparative literature. He has contributed to magazines including Bookforum, BOMB, The Los Angeles Times Book Review, The New Leader, The Georgia Review, Raritan, and others. A longtime member of the Graduate Writing Program faculty at The New School, he has also taught at Washington University in St. Louis, the Poetry Center of the 92nd Street Y, Bennington College and the Graduate Writing Division of the School of the Arts at Columbia.

Reviews

[Liam Ostermann · Rating 4 out of 5]

I must begin by telling you what type of book 'Naples Declared: A Walk Around the Bay' by Benjamin Taylor is. It is not any of the things I have shelved it as, history, memoir, travel, though it contains elements of all of those things. It is old fashioned in many ways, and I think it is no coincidence that the one author Mr. Taylor dwells most lovingly on is the English writer Norman Douglas who is now forgotten except for the disapproval his personal life now attracts (please see my footnote *1 below). It reminds me of many 'travel/memoirs' I read as a teenager in the early 1970s. Most were published in the early 1960s or even 1950s but they were on the shelves of my local library and though I can remember many stories from them I can recall no titles or authors. There is only one such book that I can recall in detail 'The Stones of Florence' (1958) by Mary McCarthy and it will stand in for all those forgotten titles as a template of what 'Naples Declared' is.

'The Stones of Florence' by Mary McCarthy was a romp through five centuries of Florentine history and art seen through the personal perspective of the author's time living in and exploring the city. It was, like many of these types of books back then, a 'travel' book but not a book to aide a traveller. None of these books were meant to be 'guide books', the very idea of them being thought equivalent to a 'guidebook' would have appalled their authors. These books were an idiosyncratic boulebais of information designed to enlighten and entertain those who knew their classics, history and art but were unable to 'travel' the way authors of these books did. It was vicarious enjoyment of an ideal lifestyle they offered to their stuck at home readers.

That, in essence is what 'Naples Declared' is. The insertion of photographs of buildings, places and art works, is reminiscent of the lavishly illustrated edition of the 'Stones of Florence' in my father's library but in Taylor's book they are tiny and often frustrating. Nowadays that doesn't matter so much because it is so easy, when a place is mentioned like, for example, the Charterhouse of San Martino, to consult the internet and find wonderful photographs of the monks burial ground and the marble skulls that decorate their enclosure.

If Mr. Taylor's book has a failing it is that he keeps himself too much in reserve. We need more of his own input, feelings, observations and prejudices. Also the books relative brevity and scantity supporting references have allowed some inaccuracies to creep in. The Fritz Krupp scandal rose not so much from Krupp's activities in Capri but because he imported several Caprisian youths to Berlin were he had the cooperative management of the luxious Aldon Hotel 'employ' them so they would be on hand whenever he could escapr from Essen. As for Jacques d'Adelsward-Fersen he was a mediocre writer but why Mr. Taylor describes his 'boyfriend' Nino Caeserini as 'out-for-the-main-chance' is hard to understand because he was actually very loyal and supportive.

I enjoyed 'Naples Declared' for what it was and I would have liked more of it.

*1 Least anyone imagine I would find in his paedophiliac relationships justifications for such behavior now let me say I don't but retrospective condemnation without context or understanding pointless. To understand Douglas read 'Unspeakable: A Life Beyond Sexual Morality' by Rachel Hope Cleves (2020) or the earlier 'Norman Douglas: A Biography' by Mark Holloway.

[Clinton Sweet · Rating 2 out of 5]

Benjamin, not a single word about pizza? I question whether you have in fact ever been there :)

[Rob Atkinson · Rating 4 out of 5]

A slight but enjoyable overview of the Bay of Naples/Naples and its history and character, ranging from Ischia/Procida at the northern end to the storied isle of Capri at its south. Focusing mostly on the city itself, it simultaneously runs somewhat chronologically from the origins of Greek settlement in the area (c. 800s BC) through the 20th c., but this isn't a full history; it's more of a thumbnail sketch, very anecdotal and impressionistic in style, informed by the authors many sojourns in the city and its environs over the past 18 years. He makes rather charming company and shares a lot of fascinating historical tidbits, but somehow -- for me at least -- fails to convey the spirit of contemporary Naples, its odd mix of faded and soiled grandeur and its spooky, rather gothic je-ne-sais-quoi. If you're looking for an entertaining introduction to the city's (and Capri's) history, a 'taster' so to speak, you could do a lot worse -- but if you want a thorough historical treatment look elsewhere. This is more of an historically informed travelogue.

[Peggy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Naples Declared is not a travel book. But then it's not a history book either. It is the story of Benjamin Taylor's relationship with a city. Like an autobiography of place. Seen through rose coloured glasses. Perhaps it should be shelved under romance, right next to all the bodice rippers.

The whole book meanders back and forth through time and place as Taylor's memories flit around, landing for a moment hither and yon. He reminisces about the places he's seen and the people he's met, describes meals he's eaten and waxes poetical about those who have gone before.

So if you want to read about the Greeks, Lord Nelson and the joy of drinking espresso and eating real Italian food will taking long scenic strolls around the city, this is the book for you. It's a little elitist, a bit on the snobby, overeducated side, and not everyone will "get" all the references in the book, but it is written in an accessible style by a master wordsmith.

Personally I quite enjoyed the book, saving it to read a small section each night before I fell asleep. It brought me back to visits to Napoli, strolling through my own streets, wandering afield to Sorrento and Amalfi. Sigh.

[Rosemarie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I would have enjoyed this book more if the author weren't so blatantly anti-Christian. I thought his comments were out of place in a book about Naples. I learned some interesting facts, but found his writing self-indulgent and boring at times.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

A literary and historical account of the Bay of Naples, written in a very discursive style. It is not a tour guide. It appears he visited every church in Naples and he points out all of the shrines of historical figures (usually Kings). I appreciated his discussions of the areas north of Naples which do not appear to be tourist hot spots, and even in well-trod areas such as Capri I learned some new things. The personal interactions he describes in the book strike me as a little odd, but it didn't ruin my enjoyment of the book.

[Tuck · Rating 4 out of 5]

a literary and historical travelogue of naples and environs. author taylor looks at naples through the years (starts his tale about 1600 bc) but not very much of modern times after ww ii. so this thin book is very well written and very entertaining, ranging from vico to augustus, auden to Michelangelo merisi (Caravaggio) and his lots of nice pictures. for all naples lovers.

this reminded me of winchester's "calcutta" and literary tour guides like harting's A Literary Tour Guide to England and Scotland
Simon Winchester's Calcutta

[Martha · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reminiscent of Magris' _Danube_ but not nearly as dense which, for me, made _Naples Declared_ a better read. At the end, it was about endings not just of Naples but of Taylor personally. I left the book feeling sad and not particulary wanting to strike out for this place. Of course, travel writers are not writing to get you to go somewhere but, rather, to understand where they have been.

[Jenn · Rating 2 out of 5]

Naples Declared is a literary and historical travelogue about, you guessed it, Naples. Interesting little book. I admire the author's passion.

[Cheryl · Rating 3 out of 5]

First and foremost, this is NOT a travel book. I have read several travel books with the theme of a walk in a specific city. Those include descriptions of buildings and places both popular and well-hidden, accompanied by info about the people and events of history that are relevant to the locale. This book was multiple layers of history and philosophy (dating back to Roman and Byzantine Empires and including modern Italian history up through the end of World War 2) with occasional information about buildings and places.

Much of the book is dense reading and much of it focuses on lesser known historians and philosophers and kings of the past. There are discussions of literature, including one about William Faulkner. When the author compared Naples to the US Deep South in attitude of mourning for glories past and compelled to live in a country dominated by those who looked down upon that past, it resonated with me. Neither is a desirable tourist destination because both present as impoverished and superstitious. This book at least gave an understanding of Naples' history that made her flaws much more sympathetic and tolerable.

Finally, the thing I struggled with the most here was the author's casual frankness and acceptance of the habits of men he expresses great admiration for in these pages. Soecifically he excuses or shrugs at pederasty and child prostitution, seeming to find the behavior of no import compared to what he considered the genius of these men. And yet he gives sufficient detail of these activities for the reader to be sickened, apparently so he is not accused of ignoring that aspect of their life. For me, my passing interest in reading the works of Nornan Douglas will never be indulged now that I know of his abuse of children and my opinion of Malraux will not recover.

[Martin · Rating 4 out of 5]

I encounter two kinds of people in the world, those who love Naples and those who hate Naples (and 80 percent of the time haven't even been there because they were sure it wasn't safe, or was filthy). I am in the first camp. This is a great book to give somebody if they think they might want to go see for themselves. It is a bit of a travelogue, a bit of gentle commentary, and gives a few broad brushstrokes of history. Naples started as a Hellenic civilization (see Paestum--no really, go see it!), then was a great Roman port prior to Vesuvius' eruption in AD 79, and in the middle ages was ruled by Normans, Angevins, Aragonese, Spanish Habsburgs, the Bourbons, Napoleon briefly, Bourbons again, and finally the unified Italy. There were periods in its history where it was a jewel, and then other times when it was abject. It got battered in WWII. It got bad press for its mafia, the Camorra. But I think this book captures its appeal. Read it and see if you want to know more.

[Daniele · Rating 4 out of 5]

[Giacomo] "Leopardi speaks of "Sterminator Vesevo," Vesuvius the Exterminator, and of the hardy vines blossoming there in defiance. These are the poles of this great poetry: the horrifying mountain and the yellow flower in bloom. At the conclusion of his Canti (a book that is to Italians what Les fleurs du mal is to French readers or Leaves of Grass to American), knowing that annihilating nature, epitomized in the volcano, must prevail, Leopardi offers this advice:

You, about to take
the fatal step
that leads to Pluto's kingdom,
commit to present pleasure
your brief life."

--

"From the road, Villa Arbusto looks as shut up as a sleeping fruit bat. I have been assured by telephone that the museum is APERTO till noon. I trudge up the hill to find CHIUSO on the door. I lose my temper and begin to pound. They are too much, these people."

[Barbara Osten · Rating 3 out of 5]

Undeniably this book is pure literary travel writing, a unique approach to revealing history, art, literature, and place all in one. However, I am not going to pretend that I understand all that Taylor has written in this book. Many of his ancient historical references are, at this point in my life, way beyond me. Yet, I was compelled to continue reading this book even when I was overwhelmed with names I couldn’t pronounce, facts I didn’t know and references that confounded me. What I like about Taylor is his “traveling citizen” role versus a tourist or history writer role. In my travels, I have often considered this way of being, even though I did not have a way to define it. Now I do.

[Grace · Rating 2 out of 5]

An old-fashioned book, like the ones I’ve read from the 1930s where authors expound on their subject with very little reference to evidence or sources other than occasional name drops. I think the author wants to seem learned but to me he is only opinionated. Although I did enjoy learning a little bit about Naples from this book, albeit in an unchronological melange, I couldn’t recommend it for the reasons stated and because the content is increasingly explicitly sexual as it goes on. That’s his take on the place and the stories surrounding it.

[Anne · Rating 4 out of 5]

Benjamin Taylor’s guide to the city of Naples includes a glimpse into three thousand years of history, with some offbeat digressions in the storytelling. At times the meandering style slowed me down in the reading, but what is so apparent is the allure of this often maligned part of Italy to the author. I most enjoyed his references to art history and Caravaggio in particular. There are extensive endnotes and references included at the end of the book.

[Allyson · Rating 3 out of 5]

After a recent visit I was very curious to discover the city with this writer. He is very entertaining if a little far ranging and erudite for my level of concentration at this time.
I liked the feel of the book in this small paperback version and the small black and white photos were nice additions. I love the sepia toned cover too.
Something I will keep and read again, perhaps in less of a rush.

[Maineguide · Rating 4 out of 5]

While a bit of a slog, I enjoyed this book. The writer covers a lot of ground in a very freeform way, from ancient history to language to daily life, with tangents and tangential characters. Makes me want to revisit Naples (there for only an overnight recently), and read more of B Taylor’s writings

[Susan Risk · Rating 1 out of 5]

I love art and I love history and I love art history, but this book was way above me. Masters level and everything Greek. Even though it claims to be Naples Declared. 60 pages in and I just couldn’t stomach it any longer. I hardly ever put a book down, but after the saying goes… My TBR piles are enormous so,…

[Allen Werner · Rating 4 out of 5]

Pretty good for my purposes. Always looking for insight and history on the Naples area and this provided some.

[Stacey · Rating 2 out of 5]

I received this book in a Goodreads giveaway.

I should have finished it a long, long time ago, and I meant to - I kept trying. But, while it is a very engaging history of Naples, I've discovered travel writing probably isn't for me.

The author brings Naples to life in concise vignettes about the people, the geography, and historical events, as he conducts his literary walk around the city and surrounding environs. I really liked the seeming randomness of the stories, and that they flow from one to the next with only loose connections, instead of as part of a more rigid organization like chronology.

While it wasn't for me, I would strongly encourage fans of travel writing and those interested in or curious about Naples and its peculiar culture to give it a shot. The writing is never dry, and the stories are unique. If you're thinking about visiting Naples, this book with its storytelling vibe may be a welcome change from practical guidebooks.

[Patrick · Rating 5 out of 5]

First of all, this is not your typical “travel book.” It is chock-full of historical insight, but it is never dry. Whether the subject is Pompeii, the catacombs of San Gennaro, or the paintings of Caravaggio, these pages overflow with warmth, profundity, and humor. It is rare to find a book that can do so much so well. But Taylor’s Naples Declared is just such a book. His enthusiasm for his subject is contagious and with him as your guide you cannot help but feel drawn to this “titanic” city. And in the moving final pages, Taylor warns us against the trappings of nostalgia, leaving me with the feeling that Taylor is not only writing about the city of Naples, but about all cities we come to love or hate (or sometimes both). This is a must read for all lovers of art, travel, and history.

[WanderShopper · Rating 2 out of 5]

Jam packed with quotes, facts and history, “Naples Declared” will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the Italian city and probably a lot you didn’t. I found this to be a hard read as so much information was offered that it was overwhelming, to the point of unpleasant, at times. The author clearly loves Naples and has thoroughly researched it in every conceivable way but that didn’t translate into an enjoyable read. And I think he knows it. At the end of the chapter two he says, “Even the politest people glaze over somewhere between Odoacer and Bishop Pomponius, and I am learning, at the tender age of fifty-nine, not to bore friends with things of interest only to me. At least I like to think so.” Apparently, he chose to bore the rest of us instead.

[Crystal · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was a Firstread and I would like to thank the author for sending it to be to review.

This book was nothing like I was expecting it but be, but it's still fascinating. It was hard to read, but worth it. I definitely have new perspective on Naples.

The author tends to jump around a lot, and at times I found myself wondering what time period he was referring to, which can be a bit confusing. Some chapters, pages, and even paragraphs were far more interesting than others. At times, I was completely enthralled, other times, I found my mind wandering to what I should make for dinner or economic equations.

[Jim Rimmer · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is one of those books I probably wouldn't have finished if I weren't so enamoured with the subject matter. Taylor's politics became evident early and we're from totally different tribes. The American-centric perspectives only highlighted this further.

Naples Declared is as layered and textual as the city being discussed but it would be almost impossible to write about this great metropolis any other way. There are some interesting observations and factoids if you're prepared for the labour of getting to them.

Peter Robb's Street Fight in Naples is a more highly recommended read on the same topic.

[Kathy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a goodreads free give away book for me. This book is unlike other travel books. The author takes you on a historical tour of Naples, revealing the city's rich history as well as its sights. As I read the book, I felt as if I was in the middle of the history/story of this area/city. It is obvious the author has thoroughly research the subject. In addition, love for the rich history and attractions comes through. Never having been in the city, I found the book quite interesting--and it definitely made me want to inclde the city on my next trip abroad.

[Robert · Rating 3 out of 5]

reading this is like drinking water from a fire hose. it took me forever to read it. each sentence is densely packed w all sorts of details, but WAY TOO MUCH data. it's got a lot of information, but it is really more like data, not information. i suppose a naples history phd would find it interesting. how this got to be a bestseller is beyond me. anyway, i am stubborn, finished it and have to say it there is a lot of good material in this book. i would only recommend it to the most sturdy of readers.

[Whitney · Rating 5 out of 5]

Three cheers for this book and for Benjamin Taylor! Of all the things I love about Naples Declared, the thing I love most is how it chronicles the way one person followed his interest in a place. One story leads to another, leads to another...you feel, reading this book, as if you're chatting with an incredibly deep and sensitive friend who's gone out to see the world and come back to tell you about it. I couldn't put it down. It's my favorite book I've read so far this year.

[Amanda · Rating 4 out of 5]

What a delight: a discursive, witty, erudite, sympathetic ramble around the art, history, and culture of this fascinating city and its environs with the most interesting companion imaginable. If I didn't know the author (which I'm fortunate enough to do) I would feel I DID by the time I finished, and feel myself very lucky to do so.

[Katharine · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was inspired to read this after finishing Elena Ferrante's Neapolitan series. Very enjoyable wander about the city. Would have been enhanced by more photos and especially maps. Still, I learned a lot and see this as a great model for books about places.

[Patrick SG · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having visited Naples many times in the navy, I wish I had the author along as my travel guide. He makes the locations come to life with stories of the people - mostly great, but some small - who inhabited the bay area.