Acclaimed importer and wine guru Terry Theise, long known for his top-notch portfolio and his illustrious writing, now offers this opinionated, idiosyncratic, and beautifully written testament to wine. What constitutes beauty in wine, and how do we appreciate it? What role does wine play in a soulful, sensual life? Can wines of place survive in a world of globalized styles and 100-point scoring systems? In his highly approachable style, Theise describes how wine can be a portal to aesthetic, emotional, even mystical experience--and he frankly asserts that these experiences are most likely to be inspired by wines from artisan producers. Along the way, Theise tells us a little about how he got where he is today, explores the meaning of wine in the lives of vintners he has known, and praises particular grape varieties. Reading between the Wines is a passionate tribute to wine--and to what it can say to us once we learn to listen.
It is very difficult to put a star rating to this. High highs and low lows! There are nuggets of profound brilliance but you have to sift through dull, repetitive, hippie philosophy to get to it. The first chapter is engaging and promises so much for the book then it's 100 pages of boredom (with a few exciting thoughts on wine) until you get to the chapters: Pressing Hot buttons, Of Places and Grapes, and Wines that Mattered which are the truly well-written, engrossing chapters in this book. MORE like that Theise! This book seemed like a missed opportunity. I really wanted more winemaker stories and more rhapsodizing about wines and grapes themselves.
Some truly profound wine writing buried under quite a bit of meandering cod-philosophy. Everyone should drink more German and Austrian rieslings, gruner veltliner, and scheurebe!
Reading Between the Wines unexpectedly triggered several disparate emotions and reactions within me, from laughing aloud with lighthearted glee to uncontrollable sobbing at reflections on nostalgia. Who knew wine could do that? Actually, Terry Theise knew that. This is the part that got me,
"And now you're just another person who failed, that's what it feels like, and suddenly you realize how hard it all is, trying to be half-decent and fair and loving and to live with your own disastrous personality, and we're all milling and colliding in the dark, and there is a great sorrow in it, but it somehow isn't exactly sad...My point is that such states are a part of life, that wine can deliver them, and that is simply makes no sense to exclude them forcibly, as we far too often do" (180).
Wow. Of course, I immediately grabbed a Riesling from my local Binny's (dry of course, I'm not ready to be THAT sad), and properly reflected upon the importance of terroir and land and soil. This is a beautifully written book about wine and its role, like music, in some of our lives.
This book probably won't teach you much about wine, but it's a beautiful read that talks about the connection between wine, soil, and the people who make it--the authenticity or soul of the wine. Evidence that the writer is writing about the topic he loves most in the world and has thought significantly and deeply about it is apparent chapter after chapter; the ideas presented are sometimes abstract, but that's his point. Enjoying wine can't be reduced to scores or tasting notes or even the five senses. Wine should be enjoyable, sometimes transcendent, but always reflect the area of the world that it came from and the unique characteristics of that place. This is a book about joy and enjoyment and about enhancing life with the complex, but accessible-to-all, pleasure of wine
This book is mindnumbing. Through the mildly insane circuitous thought patterns the author subjects you to there are some excellent and insightful passages, but fuck me, its 95% dross. He demands that every wine worth drinking is one that makes you think or expresses something unknowing. But yet on page 80 he revels in his enjoyment of a Bardolino rosé that was good enough for him to not think about just because it tasted good. Give me a break, the entire book paints a picture of all or nothing, red pill, blue pill type of thing. I also quote: "Great wine will come to you if you're calm enough to let it." What does this even mean? This clearly means nothing. I get it, he is an importer and despite his self-deprecating posturing throughout the book, he is a salesman. To which I say, cheers to you and please keep importing the good stuff. But chill out with the circle jerk out of body experiences vis-a-vis your import portfolio. THIS IS NOT HOW YOU GET PEOPLE TO LOVE GRÜNER.
This book was an absolute pleasure to read. I didn’t know much about the author— just that he is an importer of Austrian wines. As it happens, I am a huge fan of Austrian wine and only wish I had the chance to drink it more! Preferably, in Austria!
I saw some negative reviews here, hard to understand because the book was so charming, engaging and delightful! That said, it’s probably more about the place of beauty in our lives; what is a good life and the sublime more than directly about production or history of wine. I loved it and would like to read more by him. The ending was quite touching. In fact all of his stories about his connections and relationships with other people were quite moving. I had a friend who said he worried he would get to the end of his life only regretting he hadn’t laughed more and drink more wine. Kanpai!
Maybe a bit too much focus on specific producers and relationships and his experiences with bottles others would never have, rather than more broadly applicable views of wine culture and the importance of terroir.
4.5 stars. If not quite on the same level as Theise’s “What Makes a Wine Worth Drinking,” that’s probably because I read “Drinking” first - my initial exposure to Theise’s unique (to me) perspective on wine consumption - and his elegant expressions in this collection started to seem (gasp!) familiar. That won’t, however, keep me from returning to these volumes - treasures both - in future years.
I’m surprised at how much I like this. Definitely some more controversial statements at times but also if you’re writing an opinion-based book on wine, you need to stand by that opinion. There are some GORGEOUSLY made points though that I now think about regularly in my work and own perception of wine that purely for its staying power in my head, I can’t give it less than 5.
3 stars is being generous here. A bit too "Zen" for me ("let the wine come to you"). While I enjoyed his stories about wine makers, he seems to be unaware that similar stories (OK< not across as many generations) can be told about wine makers in CA as well.
While he claims that the quality of the wine seems to be an almost spiritual experience, in truth what he is doing is just pumping his own list of imported wines. While the Austrian and German and lighter French wines he presents here are "pleasant" (IMHO), they really are not on the same level as a quality French or Italian - or CA - red, or white for that matter.
While I agree with him about the "Parker-ization" of wines internationally, I do have issues w/ his claim that his favorites are not made in the barrel (like "theirs"), but rather in the field.
An often tiresome book to read (sorry, I guess I just am not as "spiritual" as he is) that is enjoyably contentious, but in the end does not convince.
I've tasted some of his imported wines, and while they are (as above) pleasant, they do not give me a Proustian moment.
I'm in the middle of this book right now, but am not enthralled. I had heard from friends that Terry Theise can turn a great phrase...mainly I find him verbose. Perhaps the book will build momentum and finish with a memorable impact. I do like the short vignettes on small growers, and I agree with the author's basic premise, which I take to be that it is worthwhile to drink wines that have a strong sense of place and show the craft of viticulture combined with winemaking.
Another reviewer wrote: "There are nuggets of profound brilliance but you have to sift through dull, repetitive, hippie philosophy to get to it." I would say the nuggets are interesting, but wouldn't call them profound brilliance. And there's an awful lot of sifting necessary to find them. The writing itself is expressive and good, but the content is extremely repetitive.
This book has very little actual information about wines. It is a LOT of the writers personal philosophy on making and drinking wine. It was a little bit interesting, but I got bored and moved on to other books, repeatedly. He is a big proponent of drinking crafted wines rather than populous driven created wines. I am, too. It's just a lot to read about for so many pages.
An enjoyable read that takes you through the musings of the author on why wine matters -- a personal philosophical approach to the love of wine with emphasis on German wines.