Sinning Across Spain

by Ailsa Piper

Sinning Across Spain is the story of Ailsa Piper's 1300 kilometre walk from the southern city of Granada to Galicia, "the bathtub of Spain", in the far northwest, carrying an unusual cargo. Aside from 10 kilograms of practicalities, she also lugged a load of sins in her swag.

In the tradition of medieval believers, or scammers, who paid others to carry their sins to holy places, and so buy forgiveness, Ailsa asked her colleagues and friends to donate a sin. She then shouldered them across country, being taunted and tempted by them along the way, and trying to discover the mysteries of faith. What is faith? Did she have it? Could she get it? Would she know it if she saw it?

Sinning across Spain celebrates the call of the road, the possibilities for connection, and the simple act of putting one foot down – and then the other, and repeat – for more than a thousand kilometres of dusty road.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Walking, Spain, Adventure, Memoir, Religion

288 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2012

Reviews

[h · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sinning Across Spain Ailsa Piper 2012, Victory Books
I have to declare two things as I review this book. Firstly I knew Ailsa briefly in the late 1970s at university and secondly that I am thoroughly atheist. Normally I would not pick up a book with a title like this. It is only after I saw Ailsa interviewed on ABC TV that I became motivated to interact with her and the book.
Sinning Across Spain is an interesting treatise on actually walking a pilgrim path in Spain and as such it is well worth reading just for that information and the inspiration that Ailsa’s walking story imparts.
More importantly for me the book chronicles many aspects of Ailsa’s life and as such it contains a lot of frank personal experience that sweeps well beyond the scope of walking in Spain. Ailsa uses the premise of carrying sins of close friends and more abstract acquaintances very effectively. Ailsa employs a mixture of autobiographical content, history, myth, legend and literature to construct a blended narrative of her life that works well as a vehicle to interrogate wide issues of faith, truth, trust, culture and everyday philosophy. This narrative allows her to focus her lens on issues of fidelity, choice, religion and relationships. The title and subject matter suggests Roman Catholic ideology and while Ailsa does examine these issues the book is never didactic and never suggests Christianity as an ideal pathway to spiritual satisfaction. Indeed it seemed to me to promote an ideology that celebrates some of the cultural value of Christianity but not the literal interpretation the bible. Nor does it support biblical concepts of heaven, hell and sin as impositions of a God. Instead Ailsa examines the idea that we construct our own deity, values and penances. For Ailsa heaven is a hot day on the walking path. She finds almost overwhelming inspiration in nature where her spirit soars, empowered by her love of life and the love she finds in nearly everything around her. Ailsa recounts her pleasure in uncovering layers and this is a motif of her journey, an often solitary journey of walking, one foot after another and the gradual peeling back of layers, of history, of culture and of self. She mines rich veins of all three during her pilgrimage in Spain and later at home. Home is an important concept for Ailsa and this is evident throughout this book, indeed Ailsa reflects that home is her favourite word in any language. Mostly this is a book about love, about knowing love, of receiving love and giving love.
Sinning Across Spain also highlights Ailsa’s beautiful command of our language and this book is a celebration not only of walking but also of English firstly but also Spanish and the other languages she encounters on her pilgrimage. Poetry is featured often as the narrative unfolds and keen students of literature will really enjoy this aspect while less expert readers will encounter many linguistic white rabbits to chase down burrows. This borrowed and found linguistic richness is expertly augmented by Ailsa’s own capacity to construct elegant and powerful passages of poetic prose. This paragraph begs a quote but there are so many I will leave it to you potential readers to enjoy them fresh, as Ailsa intended.
Autobiography has never been a genre I have sought out though there are a few that I have read in recent years including the first two of Jon Doust’s ‘Boy’ series, Jeanette Winterson’s Oranges are not the only fruit & Why be happy when you could be normal and Simone Lazaroo’s The world waiting to be made. Ailsa Piper’s Sinning Across Spain sits proudly on my bookshelf with these other fine and awarded books. Like the other books mentioned above Sinning Across Spain is a book I will dip into again and again whenever I am looking for inspiration. I heartily recommend it to you. (Piper 2012)
Harry Hercock
Manjimup
November 2012



Piper, Ailsa. 2012. Sinning across Spain : a walker's journey from Granada to Galicia. Carlton, Vic.: Victory Books.

[Jenny · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading about 3/4 of this book but I started to get bored after that. I found it inspiring and interesting but too long and the author just went into too much day to day information which was OK in the beginning but you sort of got over it after a while and started thinking ........do I even care? So I gave up reading it............life is too short.

[Ellen · Rating 5 out of 5]

"I woke pre-dawn on Susan's sofa, looked out at the clear sky then rolled over. Tomorrow, I thought. Tomorrow I'll get up and watch the sunrise over the eternal city. And then i snuggled in, assuming I would have a tomorrow."

There were many lines, phrases, thoughts, ideas throughout that spoke to me but this one got in there early and twined its way around my inner most self.

[Donna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Absolutely enthralled so far, after reading numerous books on walking The Way this one has a twist that's keeping it entertaining and educational.
I'm loving the inclusion of Spanish words and sayings other than the obvious ones yelled at pilgrims on a daily basis.
My favourite line so far which could have come out of any book but sits so beautifully in a book about walking, I just have to share as I find with most books by great authors.
"Misty rain was falling and I stepped with care across the cobbled courtyard's slick of squashed blossom". page 96

[Diana Greentree · Rating 5 out of 5]

I took this journey with Ailsa as I lay on my couch marvelling at her courage. And I thought I was an adventurous traveller! Not only was it an enthralling read, but it touched me deeply with its wisdom. I was completely drawn in...laughed, cried, longed for it to never end and very glad I didn't have to do this arduous journey physically! The writing is beautiful, never overwritten and though the author clearly suffered at times, it never felt indulgent.

[Melke · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5 ⭐️

[Megan Rasmussen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have NEVER cried so much at a travel memoir. Generally I don't even enjoy travel memoirs. but I'm extremely glad I made an exception for this one. In the first place, the audiobook was narrated by the author herself which made it SO enjoyable and energetic. It's easy to tell that she's a friendly person, and the tone of the whole book was so genuine it was hard not to love.

The premise from the start was good-- I mean, I'm a medievalist, so how could I NOT like the idea of absolution-by-proxy? If you ask me that's a severely underrated aspect of medieval pilgrimage. To bring it into the modern age, at the hands of an atheist no less, was intriguing. Along the way, Ailsa reflects on the sins she carries, both those of her friends and her own. It was a very tender, very human thing to read; not preachy or evangelizing at all. She struggles with pride especially and actively reflects on how to replace it with humility, but never for a second is it holier-than-thou.

And the descriptions! Hearing her describe the road, the cities of Cordoba and Granada, was like being there. It never dipped into over-flowered prose or anything, but painted a gorgeous vivid picture all the same. Each person felt distinct, and the conversations electrifying.

What dropped this book to 4 stars instead of 5 was the ending. Look, I understand that it's-about-the-journey-not-the-destination and all that, but the last chunk of the book was SO rushed. After all those beautiful descriptions of Andalusia and Extremadura, I was aching for descriptions of Santiago and Finisterre, but they weren't really there. I did love the email at the end of the book, though. It just felt like we'd had pages and pages of lovely reflection, mountains, people, and weather, and then it was all wrapped up with 'then we made it to Santiago and the cathedral was very pretty, and then went to Finisterre and then went home. The end.' It was a little anticlimactic.

Overall though I felt like this was an excellent audiobook to listen to as I trained for my own Camino. I'd recommend it to anyone!

[marlin1 · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m not a great lover of ‘memoirs’ as such but I do love a book that allows a bit of arm chair travel.
I found Alisa Piper’s story so easy to read. I loved her musings, stories, reflections and most of all her descriptions of the countryside and people she met on the trail, which brought it all to life. I’m not sure it really entices me to walk the Camino like a pilgrim but it as a lover of bushwalking, I certainly agree with the feeling of becoming in tune with one’s self.
This book is a revised edition of the original 2012 version, with the inclusion of two chapters of the time around of her husband passing, which I found quite poignant.
Thank you to Netgalley and the Publisher for a copy to read.

[TJ · Rating 1 out of 5]

I frankly feel ripped off after buying this book. In the book store I was captivated by the author's attempt to heal herself after the death of her husband, by walking the Camino. I too am a widow and love to read other widow's journeys, yet the book does not include her husband's death because this book was published in 2012 and her husband died in 2014. Why is her husband's death even mentioned if it happened AFTER this book was written? For marketing? Disgusting and completely fraudulent.

[Gunnar Rasmussen · Rating 5 out of 5]

A wonderful journey of self discovery during her Camino.

[Bronwyn Mcloughlin · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's an interesting book, and the author has a gift for expressing more than just what she did, but also how she felt and the explorations of both herself and the land she travelled through. It is a curious thing to take on a Camino when you aren't a particularly religious person, but I suppose the opportunity to examine life from the perspective of spirituality is not something undertaken lightly, and she certainly experiences and investigates what faith might look like quite thoroughly. As the spouse of someone who used to duck off for a week or two here and there, leaving me to care for the children, I can relate to her husband. And I admire him for his ability to accommodate her need to be off and doing without him so stoically. It is only after his death that she discovers that at least once, having cheerfully and enthusiastically sent her off on some expedition or other, he went to a favourite cafe and cried over her departure. I could never be that stoic, try as I might to acknowledge that he had the right to live his life according to what he loved to do and I shouldn't try to change him, and that 3 children and a wife would neither enjoy nor enrich a spartan climbing expedition to outback Australia in the middle of summer. The idea that they enjoy themselves far more without you is hard to stomach. Certainly, despite temptation, she never suggests for a moment that the bond with her husband is anything but strong - the comfort she finds in their relationship is clear. But the assumption that he will keep the homefires burning until she returns ..... I struggle with that idea that having two such separate lives is reasonable. But it is one interesting aspect of a thought provoking account of her experiences.

[TJ · Rating 5 out of 5]

An insightful account of the author's second camino, one that took her all the way from Granada in the south to Galicia up north. The book is in equal parts poignant and uplifting. I enjoyed the digressions into culture, history, language and poetry, even if there were some inaccuracies here and there (Extremadura is derived not from "extrema" and "dura", but rather from "the other end of the Duero"; Cabo da Roca in Portugal, and not Finisterre in Spain, is the westernmost point of continental Europe). I also couldn't help but wonder how much of the overabundance of kindness the author experienced from strangers during her camino was due to her being a blond white female. (I ask this as an Asian man who has travelled to Spain and other parts of Europe. I am a conscientious and respectful traveller, and I try to speak the language of the locals where I can and learn about their customs and attitudes. But even so, only the French--yes, the French, who have a reputation for being rude to tourists--stood out to me as being nice and helpful.) This is not to say I doubt the genuineness of the author's anecdotes. On the contrary, I truly enjoyed them, as I enjoyed the vast majority of the book.

P.S. I actually listened to rather than read this book. The audiobook was read by the author herself. And her theatre background served her well in this endeavor. Her narration was extremely nuanced and natural-sounding, and this helped sharpen the emotional impact of the book.

[Rachel Stansel · Rating 5 out of 5]

I'm a fan of long hike memoirs and was excited to read about this pilgrimage Camino in Spain. I am overwhelmed by how much more I enjoyed it than I could have expected. The author father's the sins of friends and strangers to carry on her pilgrimage, in essence to walk them off as was done in more distant times. By doing so, she reflects on her own past sins and is more acutely aware of her shortcomings or struggles along the way. Her thoughtful discussions of ethical and moral questions are interwoven with stories or her experiences on the walk and her interactions with other pilgrims. I learned at the end that the book was a reissue and this new 2017 release adds details of her life since the book's release. This chapter was powerful and emotional, as was the original story.

As a walker myself, this spoke to me, putting into words why walking soothes my soul: "The great relief of walking, for me, is the silence in my mind. It is my meditation. When my feet achieve a regular rhythm, or when I am climbing hard with my pumping heart bursting from my chest, hours can pass without a thought."

Full disclosure - I received a copy of the book from the publisher in exchange for an honest review.

[Susan C · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having read The Attachment, I felt I needed to read the book that inspired the correspondence.

I have read several books on walking the Camino and it was through this book I learned that there is more than one Camino. I also learned its not an easy path to follow both physically and mentally. The author uses lots of Spanish words which I think is appropriate for the book - particularly since they relate directly to the Camino itself - but I found myself coming across them again and again and having to think - hang on, what does that word mean.

The edition I had featured the update of her husband's passing. After getting to know her on the Camino, I felt very much grief stricken for her. In the appendix, she said that she hadn't wanted to include her husband in the first draft, but had been persuaded to do so, lest someone think - 'what happened to your marriage'. Those glimpses of Peter showed the love they have between them.

I must admit that having finished the book, I now want to go back and re-read The Testament. Perhaps this is like Ailsa Pipers devotion to the Camino - so much to learn.

[Sally Forest · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting travel read, with a different focus - the idea that the trekker, Ailsa Piper, does a difficult trek, alone, across Spain in order to expiate the sins of others; strangers in fact can write to her, tell her about their sins and ask that she carry them with her to the end.
As well as making a catchy title, it is an intriguing concept. I could never fully understand why Ailsa Piper did this. She had a good marriage, friends, interests, and was not a church-goer. However I could grasp the significance and power of deciding to do this for others.
It was a tiring and arduous trek, the burden lightened by meeting friendly and helpful locals and other trekkers, some developing into longer and deeper friendships. One, indeed, almost became as deep as that with a lover. Ailsa did not see this as threatening her marriage.
The writing was straightforward, with gripping descriptions of endurance and relief and joy, and of her spiritual exploration.
The publication of the book sparked her friendship with Tony Doherty, leading to the book: The Attachment.

[بثينة الإبراهيم · Rating 5 out of 5]

يقصد باللفظة اليونانية "الكاتارسيس" التطهير والتنقية والتنظيف، وقد ذكر أرسطو أن المأساة أو التراجيديا تطهر المشاهدين من الخوف والفزع. في هذا الكتاب، تمارس أليسا بايبر "تطهرًا" عبر المشي في أنحاء أسبانيا، و"تطهيرًا" أيضًا لذاتها وللخاطئين الذين حملت خطاياهم -على اختلافها- و"حجت" عنهم من غرناطة إلى غاليسيا (جليقية) على طريق القديس سانتياغو ماتاموروس (بالإسبانية وتعني القديس يعقوب قاتل المسلمين، حواري قيل إنه كان يقاتل إلى جانب المسيحيين ضد مسلمي الأندلس)، ويعرف هذا الطريق باسم سانتياغو دو كومبوستلا. غير أن أليسا لا تنطلق لغاية دينية، فهي مشاءة ووجدت في هذه الرحلة فرصة لاكتشاف أسبانيا والآخرين (الخاطئين الذين حجت عنهم والذين التقتهم على الدرب) وتخلصت مع كل خطوة من خطيئة من خطاياها، التي اكتشفتها في الطريق، كانت رحلتها مشيًا نحو الذات، نحو الآخر بأصفى صورهما، وعلى رأي رجل الصفيح " ليست الرحلة هي المهمة، بل أولئك الذين تلتقيهم على الدرب"، وقد وجدت أليسا الكثير في جولة الروح.

[Jane Simmons’S · Rating 5 out of 5]

One if the most awe-inspiring books I’ve ever read. So incredibly original. One of those books that keeps you hooked! A really really great read.

A woman hikes a trail in Spain and her experience is so unexpected. From staying in dingy hostels to the people she meets along the way. Her writing style is simultaneously kind and straightforward. You imagine her to be one of these “salt of the earth” types of people. She is incredibly relatable and honest. No airs. She says it the way it is.

Did she cheat one night and splurge on a 5 star hotel becatse she was so worn out and dirty and tired? Yes she did. But who wouldn’t! As a married woman did she feels a strong sexual attraction to a sexy Italian co-hiker. Oh yes she did. She didn’t act on it but she explored this very human condition.

An absolutely magnificent read.

[Kerry · Rating 5 out of 5]

As I started the book, I was not keen on the idea of carrying sins and it seemed quite indulgent . But once she got going I could not put it down. It was very descriptive with lots of short, not quite sentences, which made it easy to read and picture. Then she would expand with beautiful writing and quote poetry or philosophy or religious ideas , which I found absorbing. It was very much a physical journey but it’s purpose was spiritual. I suspect she painted the people she met with a soft brush. I liked the way she called herself out. It did not encourage me to follow her fearless path but I am very grateful for her sharing the journey and her experiences. This was a book that opened mind and my heart.

[Deirdre E Siegel · Rating 5 out of 5]

An excellent start to the Camino Way.
Overall this was an excellent listen,
sadly I found the author becoming a little to self righteous while remaining ignorant.
As a student of European History, Theology and Philosophy,
my understanding of any Pilgrimage was a long / very long / very very long / extremely long walk
to cleanse your body, soul and spirit,
undertaken by royalty / the very rich / the rich and the poor.
Some went on their knees, some walked and some rode.
Essentially a pilgrimage was about the Pilgrim becoming closer to their faith in a realization of self,
not kudos from friends :-)

[Lisa]

I really enjoyed this compared to many other pilgrimage books I’ve read. I liked how steeped it was in the Australian-ness of the author. I liked the character drawings of her companions along the way. I liked the confessional element combined with reachings for the spiritual musings and connections. The element of taking on others sins and the history and theology of that was especially intriguing. Thinking about sin along with her discussion of her own temptations to adultery was very real and effective. I liked the wider ranging bits of history of Spain that showed up here. Not just medieval. My version also had a conversation with the author which was compelling.

[Clare Sullivan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Walking the camino is something that has been pulling at me for a while now. Having read Sinning Across Spain - a great title especially when you're reading it on public transport is spurring me on but also asking why. It's part travel journal, part philosophical, part private diary. Having been raised catholic the idea of sin and their opposites virtues and carrying the sins of others and indulgences was familiar. I loved her descriptions of friendship and meeting fellow travellers and what we can learn from others if we allow it.

Beautiful.

[Jan · Rating 3 out of 5]

In 2010 Ailsa walked from Granada in the south to the top of Spain 'carrying' the sins of others (friends and others whom she asked to contribute). It was a massive walk of 1300km in 43 days, some alone, some with friends she made along the way. After her husband died suddenly in 1014 she walked more and did the French section in his memory (a postscript in the 2017 edition I read included this). Fascinated as I was, I found the main part of the book dragged towards the end, but otherwise it was a good read.

[Karli Sherwinter · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is an interesting guide and exploration of Catholic belief by an Australian woman, who hiked the Camino in Spain, alone, yet interacting with people all along the way. I particularly enjoyed her discussions about the nature of sin. She carried the sins of others as a service for her hike, always deeply considering the ramifications of that responsibility. Of course, the descriptions of the towns and the food are particularly enjoyable. I chose this book as another insight into Spain and its culture prior to our visit.

[Melinda Charlesworth · Rating 5 out of 5]

Devastated to get to the end of this though every step taken on those endless kms of the Camino should have left even me as a reader relieved to finally put my feet up! A unique approach to pilgrimage - shouldering the sins of others and carrying that burden even while facing the inevitable challenge of the Camino. Such honest confessions and invaluable insights shared generously and bravely. Thank you!

[Sarah]

A Melbourne woman takes a second turn of the Camino de Santiago, carrying with her some written sins of her friends and family along the way.

Look it was fine. I love the Camino and love watching docos about it, but I'm beginning to realise that reading about other people's personal experience of pilgrimage is just not very interesting. And especially without the stunning visual scenery to enjoy.

[Tracy Bryant · Rating 4 out of 5]

A thoroughly enjoyable read. It was joyful and sad and I felt very lucky to the author for sharing her life and thoughts in a candid and honest manner. It highlighted how much harder we are on ourselves and our foibles compared to how accepting we are of others, particularly those we love and admire. Well written and insightful, I highly recommend this book It's more than just a travel memoir.

[Victoria · Rating 3 out of 5]

An enjoyable read. It dragged a little at the end and I was keen to be finished. I wish the book had delved more into her story and feelings rather than the people around her. The post script was heartbreaking. I also enjoyed the interview at the end of the book and am keen to read The attachments. Was this the same priest written in the book?

[Alan Marr · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is one of the better examples of reflective writing that I have read in quite a while. Piper is honest, vulnerable and fun. I was hoping it would teach me about Spain but it gave me more than that.

[Steve Castley · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an amazing and inspiring book. It is beautifully written and every word, phrase and sentence grabs and hold the reader. I loved this book and Ailsa Piper's energy and love of life, people and adventure. I wonder what is next.

[Becky · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book. It was a slow, deep & detailed read that reflected a great and colorful journey. I am not a committed walker myself but I virtually enjoyed the caminos. Piper is a gifted storyteller!