Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique

by Will Gadd, Will Gadd

2004 Banff Mountain Exposition Award Winner and Silver Award Winner for Foreward Magazine's Book of the Year in Adventure and Recreation

"Mixed climbing is my favorite discipline. It's the most fun because it has the fewest rules -- sort of like professional wrestling compared to boxing." So says Will Gadd, as profiled in the book Fifty Favorite Climbs . Here the champion ice climber presents the same techniques and veteran wisdom he imparts to those who attend his annual clinics. These include step-by-step instructions for the swing (ice axe), the kick (footwork), and putting it all together (tracking); how to "read" ice to select your line and follow it safely; and drytool techniques for mixed climbing. Training exercises and inspirational stories complete this seminal guide.

Will Gadd won every major ice competition in the world in 1998 and 1999, as well as the 2000 Ice World Cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing and Rock & Ice , among other publications.

Genres: Climbing, Reference, Mountaineering

Paperback

First published October 1, 2003

Reviews

[Ron · Rating 3 out of 5]

As of 2005 it covered the most modern techniques, is up to date with equipment, and has great color photos. Written by Will Gadd it definitely has the flair of an individual author, reads more like a pro's guide than a technical reference. The type of material covered and order is great. However, the editing of this guide is severely lacking. It suffers from incorrect captions, bad figure references, transposed terms (convex vs concave) and complex procedures described in steps that tend to get you lost in confusion rather than clarify.
If you're an already accomplished ice climber, there will be a few "take home" concepts ("tracking"/cycling vertical progression, and his personal take on mix climbing techniques for instance). A beginner will benefit more from this guide (after reading twice to work around the editing problems).
A second edition, edited properly, will be a top-notch guide on this sport.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not much to review here in the literary sense as this is a how-to book.

Will Gadd is the world’s leading ice climber, and it’s no surprise his comprehensive book is filled with cautionary tales, game-changing tips, and compelling narratives.

A must-read for anyone looking to take their ice-climbing game to the next level.

[Eren · Rating 4 out of 5]

Needs to be updated

[Milan Vrekic · Rating 5 out of 5]

Complex techniques explained simply

[Martin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Perfect way to prepare for the start of the season!

[Steve Heikkila · Rating 3 out of 5]

The book for ice and mixed. Will Gadd! Come on.