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313 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2008
A government crony - call him Mr. Harmon - applies for a $3 million loan to build a resort on Ambergris Caye. The DFC gives Mr. Harmon a ten-year loan at 13 percent. It's a good deal, the banks are charging 19 percent, but that doesn't matter because Harmon isn't going to make any payments. What he does is take the cash and wait a few months. He puts a few thousand dollars into construction to make it look good, then he defaults on the loan. The government repossesses his resort, which is nothing but a cement foundation. The money goes on the government's books as a bad loan, but nobody really cares because it's government money. Meanwhile, Mr. Harmon pockets $3 million cash.
Every once in a while, though, I meet a rare subspecies of human who offers hope. It's almost never a politician or a scientist. It's almost always a woman without credentials. They're often self-taught researchers who become experts through years of hard experience and close observation. They're the ones who scoop up a jar of brown water from a ditch and ask impertinent questions about what's in it. Because they don't know protocol they barge in and do what nobody else has the courage to do. They don't ask permission.
The corporation developing the dam was Fortis, a power company based in Newfoundland, Canada. In 1999, Fortis purchased Belize's electrical utility, Belize Electricity Limited (BEL), as part of the Belizean government's privatization program.
There are few things in this world that can be called dead certainties. One is that when the government starts running ads boasting of the local dollar's strength, the local dollar is about as mighty as a kitten in a river.
If it were giving that much power, as much as you need for all of Belize, I wouldn't stand in the way. But we're talking about six megawatts!
He'd discovered on his own that the company building the dam had no idea what kind of rock they were building the dam upon. "They're saying the river's full of good solid granite," he said, "but I've never found granite out here."
"Could dam builders make such a basic mistake?"
"Contractors are human," he said. "Engineers make mistakes. The only problem is that there's a town of fifteen thousand people living directly downriver from the dam. If the dam fails, that mistake could wipe them out in a matter of seconds."
He pulled teeth while Sharon studied Russian and wildlife biology at the University of Iowa. It might have been an ideal setup for someone. It wasn't for Sharon. Her husband wanted to have kids. She didn't.
With a population of 225,000, Tenochtitlan boasted more people than London and Paris combined. Aztec kings ruled from dazzling white palaces and strolled through elaborate gardens and aviaries. Fresh spring water flowed through one of the world's most elaborate aqueducts. [...] With the nation's leaders unguarded and unarmed, Cortés unleashed his horses, swords, and cannons - technology unknown in the New World - and killed them all.
The cutters who felled mahogany stacked the wood on the riverbanks and let the rainy season floods flush the timber to Belize City. Why build roads when Mother Nature delivered it for free?
Nobody knows who built the first dam. The oldest one for which evidence remains is the Sadd el-Kafara ("Dam of the Pagans"), a thirty-seven-foot-high structure about twenty miles south of Cairo. Built around 2600 B.C., about the time the Egyptians were raising the first pyramids, the dam was an impressive structure.
Invented in the first century B.C., the water wheel was a large wheel studded with flat blades that turned as water flowed against the blades. In terms of its influence on the development of civilization, the water wheel was right up there with the spear and the plow. By converting the force of a flowing river into mechanical energy (as the wheel spun a radial shaft), for the first time humanity drew power from something other than the muscle of man or beast.
If there is credit or blame for the British settlement of Belize, it must be laid at the foot of the fashion industry. In the sixteenth century, Spanish settlers in the Yucatan discovered a crooked swamp-loving tree known as logwood. The tree's heartwood boiled down into a blue-black dye that offered an alternative to indigo.
In the predawn darkness of a winter morning, the Caribbean and North American plates slipped past each other and triggered one of the deadliest earthquakes in Central American history. In less than a minute, one-third of Guatemala City was destroyed. Twenty-three thousand people died.
She gave slide presentations about Chalillo and the Macal River valley in local villages and gathering spots. In doing so she ripped an old page out of the conservation playbook. If you want people to save something, you have to show them what's worth saving.
In 1980, the National Park Service inventoried all the rivers in the contiguous United States. They found more than 3,000 distinct rivers totaling more than 3,231,000 miles of running water. Of that total, only forty-two sizeable rivers (longer than 125 miles) remained free-flowing and undammed. The number of major rivers (longer than 620 miles) left untouched by the twentieth century's great damming frenzy was exactly one: the Yellowstone.
Nisqually Tribe leader Billy Frank, Jr., lives with the trade-off every day. "They talk about cheap electricity," he once said. "Hydropower. It's not cheap. It's all been paid for by the salmon. Every time those lights come on, a salmon comes flying out."
Their reservoirs are slowly filling with sediment. Dam engineers in North America and Europe have devised ways to alleviate the problem, but in developing countries like Belize, where corners are often cut, sediment can take decades off a dam's productive lifespan.
But vegetation decays quickly in warm reservoirs. At the Brokopondo Dam in Suriname [...] the rotten-egg stink of hydrogen sulfide produced by its reservoir was so bad that dam workers had to wear gas masks for two years after the dam's closure. The water turned so acidic that it ate away the dam's cooling system.
At the bottom of warm subtropical reservoirs, vegetation decaying in oxygen-poor water produces methane, a greenhouse gas twenty times as potent as CO2 at inducing climate change. At the top, plants rotting in oxygen-rich water produce carbon dioxide. [...] Gas release varies from dam to dam, but most reservoirs produce about one-tenth the amount of a coal-fired power plant.
Belizeans are poor, but they aren't as destitute as their Guatemalan neighbors. What Belize lacks is infrastructure. When Belizeans need a modern hospital, they drive to Guatemala. When they want to visit a well-stocked library, they catch a bus to Mexico.
Bowen's father had been the last colonial-era owner of the Belize Estate Company, which was to Belize what the Hudson's Bay Company was to Canada.
Between 1900 and 2000, nearly thirty million live birds of all species were imported to the United States for retail sale.
Since 1960 Central America has lost more than 70 percent of its forest cover. Most of that territory was cleared to make way for cattle ranches, sugar cane fields, and coffee plantations.
At night they ate rice fortified with palm hearts sliced out of nearby trees.
Researchers have shown that macaws, like ravens and crows, can recognize and remember human faces.
"My favorite time of day is between four and six-thirty in the morning," Sharon once told me. "Nobody's up, nobody's bothering you. Dark turns to light and the birds come to life. I listen for the forest falcons. They have a haunting cry, and they're usually up before anything else. Then as it gets lighter the clay-colored robins and parakeets come in. The energy level of nature is at its peak in the morning. [...]"
Extinction is a profound idea. Ancient naturalists never imagined such a thing, even as the evidence lay before them in the form of fossils. [...] In the seventeenth century, to claim that a species had been snuffed out was to imply a flaw in the Creator's design. [...] Desperate for theological consistency, scientists settled upon what might be termed the "shy descendants" theory: Extinct species found as fossils must exist, yet undiscovered, in the wilderness or in the sea.
To defray that cost, Amec hatched a scheme to make the taxpayers of Canada foot the bill. The company assigned the project to its Montreal office, then applied for foreign aid from the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA). [...] In June 2000, CIDA awarded Amec's Canadian division a $167,500 grant to prepare the Chalillo IEA. The grant was later increased to $312,000.
As they've evolved - especially in developing countries - EIAs often provide little more than the illusion of environmental checks and balances. Many of the world's largest construction firms now operate lucrative environmental consulting arms that produce slick project-justifying EIAs for the worst sorts of developments.
In the 1920s, Quebec attempted to wrest Labrador from Newfoundland, claiming that the territory lay within the natural boundaries of French Canada. You can see their point. On a map of Canada, Labrador seems strangely jigsawed out of Quebec. Newfoundland's claim rests on its traditional use of Labrador's shoreline and interior as summer fishing and hunting grounds. The two neighbors battled all the way to the Privy Council, the highest court for Commonwealth nations, where the Law Lords declared Newfoundland the rightful owner.
Near the end of World War II, explorers journeying to the remote interior of Labrador came upon one of the last pristine wonders of the world: Hamilton Falls, the third largest waterfall on the planet.
Stan Marshall was nobody's fool. "Of course the dam will be economical," Tillett explained to Sharon. "Economical for Fortis! For Belizeans buying their power, not so much."
Developed countries require such pits to have watertight liners that prevent leakage into the water supply. Stantec, the Canadian engineering company designing the new dump, wanted to do without liners.
Anne worked on development projects in southern Belize. She was a steely Danish woman with an even temperament and a no-nonsense, pragmatic outlook on life. She got along well in Belize.
At the end of their meeting in Newfoundland, Fortis chief engineer John Evans had assured Ari Hershowitz that he'd send the NRDC a copy of BEL's power purchase agreement. The agreement set the terms for the power company's purchase of electricity from the Mollejon Dam. Hershowitz waited months for the promised copy. It never arrived.
Breaking away from the Privy Council has long been seen as a milestone in a colony's road to full independence. Canada ended its appeals to the Privy Council in 1933. Australia sent its last case in 1968. Malaysia cut its ties in 1985, Singapore in 1994.
In early 2004 Fonseca signed a hush-hush deal with Carnival Cruise Lines giving the company the right to build an enormous new terminal in Belize City. The only problem was that he had already sold exclusive docking rights to Carnival's rival, Royal Caribbean.
Paper parks are conservation areas that exist on maps but aren't protected in practice. They make governments look good in the eyes of international lenders, tourists, and environmentalists, but they're essentially a form of greenwashing.
Contributing editor to Outside magazine and author Bruce Barcott (The Measure of a Mountain: Beauty and Terror on Mount Rainier [1997]) has constructed a gripping and suspenseful account of one woman's crusade against corrupt foreign governments and multinational corporations to save the habitat of an endangered bird. Barcott's simple and eloquent prose, vivid descriptions, and ability to render the most complicated business deals and legal concepts in clear layman's terms allow him to tame this unwieldy tale, which has unexpected twists and turns. The biggest point of divergence? Most critics found Barcott's many narrative tangents informative, interesting, and even integral to the plot, while others called them tedious and distracting. Though the Chalillo Dam was completed in 2005, Matola's story proves that one person can make a difference. (The jury is still out on the fate of the scarlet macaws.)
This is an excerpt from a review published in Bookmarks magazine.