On the Heights

by Walter Bonatti, Lovett F. Edwards

London, 1964, 1st UK edition. 248 pp, ill. Bonatti was one of the greatest Alpine climbers of the 50's, and this book is one of the classics of mountaineering. Bonatti is one of the world's most important mountaineers and made the first ascents of K2 and Gasherbrum 4. He describes here his climbs in the Peruvian Andes and the Southern Patagonian Cordillera, as well as his classic climbs in the Alps and the Dolomites. The first volume of Bonatti's memoirs. Includes the ill-fated attempt to scale the Freney Pillar in which four of his six strong team died.

248 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1978

About the author

He was an Italian mountain climber, explorer and journalist. He was noted for his many climbing achievements, including a solo climb of a new route on the south-west pillar of the Aiguille du Dru in August 1955, the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV in 1958 and in 1965 the first solo climb in winter of the North face of the Matterhorn on the mountain's centenary year of its first ascent. Immediately after his extraordinary solo climb on the Matterhorn Bonatti announced his retirement from professional climbing at the age of 35 and after only 17 years of climbing activity. He authored many mountaineering books and spent the remainder of his career travelling off the beaten track as a reporter for the Italian magazine Epoca. He died on the 13 September 2011 of pancreatic cancer[1] in Rome aged 81,[2] and was survived by his life partner, the actress Rossana Podestà.

Famed for his climbing panache, he pioneered little known and technically difficult climbs in the Alps, Himalayas and Patagonia.