Argentina. Such a place; sophisticated, layered, miserably so. Too beautiful - like that high school crush you’re secretly glad wouldn’t go out with you because you wouldn’t really know what to do if they’d said yes to you then, and now? Oh god - look - just look.
Now that I live a short ferry ride away, but in a different country from that big, ferocious yet weirdly impotent place, I find myself endlessly fascinated by its writers, its stories: Puig, Cortazar, Ocampo, Selva Almada and now Kohan.
Wait, you’re saying, she forgot Borges. No I didn’t, and Borges.
That country, rich with humor, culture, tenderness, insight, hindsight, loveliness, hubris - yet it seems so unable to shape these into anything actually Helpful.
This book. Skillfully told from the most innocent to the height of guile - what - I think? A grandmother talking openly about her adolescent sexuality? On what planet? But it all becomes tangible, believable, no more a confession than any other story that needed to be told. All coiled so gently.
Indeed this is a story that needed to be told. One of 30,000 or 40,000 - but who's counting?
The first chapters are divided by short riffs on the theme of the Rio de la Plata, a river that doesn’t appear to flow. It seems a river that defies Heraclitus; but it must be moving because it changes the color of the ocean at the point where it joins the Atlantic - near where I live - documenting its course by leaving a grayish brown patina which can be seen from above, or while shipboard.
When you’re in Buenos Aires there’s no perspective from which to see the horizon over the river. They’re both flat. A flat city looking at a flat river. But the city doesn’t bother to look at the dead river. It very pointedly looks away from it.
On a trip last month from Uruguay to Argentina, we were in the middle of the Rio de la Plata during a tormenta grande, a big storm, with hail the size of softballs and a blinding rain. I had a front row seat and it was glorious. Buenos Aires was temporarily flooded when we landed, the city forcibly paused for a few hours. Traffic tangled even more than usual.
Flooding, sudden underground changes in water make up another bit of the storyline in this fine book. The underground water systems we think are under control. A tiny detail of the Nature We Now Are in Charge of. Or imagine we are.
But, really, how easily our way of life can be permanently put on pause by a little rain. How fragile it all is.
No one meant any harm, did they?
Best to find a steamy balcony in Villa Ortuzar, like we did, gather with friends around a piano and sing tango while the world burns.
Maybe you’ll sing Volver.
Maybe you can close your eyes and see Carlos Gardel.
Maybe then you can forget that secret you told. Or the one you should have told.
And then it would have all been different.
I cannot recommend this perfectly constructed novel highly enough.