The French Menu Cookbook

by Richard Olney, Paul Bertolli (Introduction)

As those who knew him will attest, Francophile and food writer Richard Olney was one of a kind-a writerly cook who had a tremendous influence on American cooking via his well-worn cottage on a hillside in Provence. Born in the Midwest in 1927 and drawn to France at the tender age of twenty-four, Olney was unapologetically attracted to the style, flavors, and tastes of French cooking when most Americans were smitten by the wonders of the new prepared foods in their markets. With unrelenting passion and precision, Olney studied and explored the cuisine, carefully documenting all he had learned for future generations of chefs, cooks, and food lovers. His first of several landmark works, THE FRENCH MENU COOKBOOK, was well ahead of its time with its authentic French recipes and then-unheard-of seasonal approach to cooking. Little did we know then that THE FRENCH MENU COOKBOOK would provide inspiration for Alice Waters and her compatriots as they built the groundwork for a culinary revolution in America. Brimming with the honest and enlightening explanations of how the French really cook and the 150-plus authentic recipes, this book is a masterful resource that is a must for every serious cook.

Genres: Cookbooks, Cooking, Food, France, Nonfiction, Wine

446 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 1970

About the author

Richard Olney was an American painter, cook, food writer, editor, and memoirist, best known for known for his books of French country cooking.

Olney lived in a house above the village of Solliès-Toucas in Provence, France, for most of his adult life, where he wrote many classic and influential cookbooks of French country cooking. He had first moved to France in 1951, to Paris, where he was close friends with (and painted many of) the American and English bohemian expatriate set, including James Baldwin, filmmaker Kenneth Anger, painter John Craxton, poet John Ashbery, and composer Ned Rorem.

He was also friends with Elizabeth David.

Reviews

[Steven Peterson · Rating 5 out of 5]

A set of basic French recipes. One nice feature: menus are featured for all four seasons of the year, and a series of recipes are presented for each meal menu. To illustrate: One winter menu features an informal dinner--Gratin of stuffed crepes, Stuffed calves' ears with Béarnaise sauce, Molded tapioca pudding with apricot sauce.

The book begins by outlining the approach taken throughout. Then, introductory discussions of wine, reds versus whites versus roses; wine cellars; temperature. Then, a discussion ensues of the variety of wines by region in France. Nice discussions of Beaujolais and Bordeaux. Next, what should go into a kitchen (what types of knives, for instance). Then, on to the menus and recipes.

One thing I enjoy when seeing a new cookbook is to check out any recipes for a dish that I have already cooked. And, here, I enjoyed comparing how my basic Beef burgundy (Boeuf a la bourguignon) recipe compares with the one in this book. Some recipes contain carrots and others don't. This one uses carrots, which is my preference. This recipe calls for cognac, not something that routinely goes into a recipe. Another recipe where I enjoyed comparing what the author, Richard Olney, does with what I do--Coq au vin.

I have always wanted to try making Quenelle. I once had a delicious Quenelle in Dole (France) and have never gotten around to trying to make this (also, I'm not sure my family would be excited by it!). I'll pass on this recipe, since it is much more difficult to make than others that I have seen. But just looking at the recipe has increased my enthusiasm to make some Quenelle!

So, all in all, a nice cookbook, originally published in 1970.

[Honest Mabel · Rating 3 out of 5]

interesting

It is interesting and something you would make to impress but other than that it is not a book I would cook from regularly

[Owain Roberts · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful book - although some of the advise in impractical. Who keeps a wooden cask in the kitchen to pour the last glass or two of premier cru claret into to make very superior vinegar? In fact, who leaves the last class of premier cru claret undrunk?

[Joy Mcgrath]

Some of the best writing about cooking ever.

[Julia Jakobsen · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don't usually count the cookbooks I read on here but this one was more like food writing than an actual recipe book (even though there are many recipes in here, most of them would be impossible to attempt). A beautiful evocative glimpse into the past, Olney makes his kitchen come alive and I just wish I could jump in a time machine and learn a lesson or two from him. The wine section is brilliant as well. Definitely a book for those interested in french cuisine and food culture.

[John-andrew · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant! Beyond the recipes, Olney wrote a beautiful ode to French wine and food. It's not just about how to make it, but how to enjoy it, how to build a menu, and what it means to enjoy life with a sense of style. This is a classic, and I'll take it over Toklas or Child any day of the week.

[Jake · Rating 3 out of 5]

impossible recipes that are more about testing boundaries.

[Lindsay]

So far this is a delicious read

[Stephanie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I can't wait to actually cook something out of this...

[Janet Elsbach · Rating 3 out of 5]

so much cream and innards.