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400 pages, Hardcover
First published October 9, 2012
I try to get better each day, to do my job just a little better every day. Not a lot, but a little. Every day. [- Thomas Keller, The Road to Bouchon Bakery]
Bread is the reason Bouchon Bakery exists. I conceived the bakery to make bread for my restaurants. [...] I love bread. Bread is both the simplest of foods—flour, water, yeast, and salt—and infinitely complex. It's one of the easiest foods to make (if it were difficult, it wouldn't have been around for millennia), but it's also fantastically nuanced. Truly great bread does indeed take great care.
[- Thomas Keller, Breads]
There are all kinds of myths and theories about starting a yeast culture: Put organic grapes into the flour and water, or purple cabbage. You can only develop a true sourdough in the Bay Area. So-and-so's grandmother's 400-year-old starter has amazing complexity and distinction. Nonsense. Sourdough is the world's oldest leavened bread and it's all more or less the same, with the variations depending on climate, amount of hydration, how often you feed the starter, and so on. The distinction of sourdough is the level of sour you bring to it. The French tend to make milder sourdoughs. Generally, the looser the starter, the less sour it will be. This boule is tangy but not super sour. [Breads | Sourdough Boule]
WEIGHING VERSUS MEASURING [...] [T]he merits of weighing are not only about accuracy: weighing is also more convenient. Weighing is a much easier and cleaner way to measure peanut butter, molasses, or corn syrup, for example—you simply set the mixing bowl on the scale, tare the scale (set it to zero), and measure the ingredient into the bowl, rather than having to scrape it into and out of a measuring cup. And, of course, there is the additional bonus that more than one ingredient can be measured into that same bowl.
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You'll see that most of these recipes have what may seem crazily specific weights: 519 grams of flour, for instance, or 234 grams of sugar. [...] However, when converting those weights to volume, we often had to round them off (despite Sebastien and Matthew's preference that we not). In a short time it should become readily clear why weighing is the preferable route.
[...]
There are so many variables present every time you begin a recipe: the heat of the kitchen, the ingredients, the calibration of your oven, to name just a few. Weighing rather than measuring by volume is a simple way of eliminating one big variable. [...] When you measure by volume, the weight of an ingredient can differ each time. Once you get a scale, you can see for yourself how wide a range of weights a cup of flour can be, depending on how it is spooned or scooped or packed; it can vary in volume by as much as 50 percent depending on who's doing the measuring, how the flour was stored and measured, and the humidity. [...] Another example is salt—different salts are not equal in weight when measured by volume. A tablespoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt (used in these recipes), for example, weighs only 60 percent of what a tablespoon of Morton kosher salt weighs. [- Susie Heller and Amy Vogler, Throw Out Your Measuring Cups]
All ovens cycle, meaning they heat up to over the designated temperature and stop heating, then start heating up again when the temperature drops below what is set. An oven will bake or cook food most evenly if it has cycled three times [Throw Out Your Measuring cups]
Every Morning in Paris When I was twenty-eight, I lived on the top floor of 15, rue de Vouille. On the ground floor was a tiny boulangerie. [...] [M]y most enduring memory is of waking up every morning to that smell of baking bread. [...] It had quickly become clear to me how central bread was to life in Paris. The boulangerie in my building was maybe 100 square feet of retail space; the ovens were in the back. I was fascinated by the man who baked the bread. I saw that a man could devote his life to baking bread, and that it was a good life, a worthy profession and one to be revered. [...] [A] bakery is an anchor—it draws a community around it. People would sit in the bakeries to eat their croissants; they would gather in the morning, and in the afternoon. People come together at and around bakeries. Baking is a unifying force. [- Thomas Keller, Every Morning in Paris]
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Today grocery store bakeries tend to use bake-off operations or heat-and-serve operations, or a combination of the two. But in 1993, that Safeway still baked from scratch every day. [- Matthew McDonald, A Bread Baker's Journey]]
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The recipes in this book are the same ones, though scaled down, that Bouchon Bakery uses daily, along with many tips to make them easier to prepare at home. We tested them all multiple times, and we think your results will be as stunning as ours were. [- Susie Heller and Amy Vogler, Throw Out Your Measuring Cups]
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When using butter to make a firm tart dough or an elastic brioche dough, you are literally shortening the long strands of gluten, the protein network that makes dough elastic. [...] When water and flour are mixed together, long strands of proteins are released, but they're all in a clump, a big mass. [...] The more you work the dough, however, the more the strands line up in a row, get connected, and become parallel. They can stretch, and the dough becomes elastic. [...] When you add fat, however, you weaken the bonds of those long gluten strands, separating them, preventing them from hooking up and making the dough strong and elastic. You keep those cords short and disconnected. We want a strong dough for pasta and bread, but for brioche, tarts, or cookies, we want a tender one. [- Cookies | The Short of It]
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The only way to know if you are mixing the dough right is through practice, and by keeping track of your results. We don't believe that being able to stretch a piece of dough until it becomes translucent, as is often taught, is adequate to determine if dough is mixed enough. Also, our doughs are fairly slack—that is, loose—so you couldn't use this "windowpane" test anyway; when you scrape them out of the bowl and onto your work surface, they will spread out into fairly flat blobs. Slack, or wet, doughs can ferment longer and develop more flavor. [-Breads, Second stage : mixing]
Here are guidelines for starting and feeding a levain, with amounts given for the first six feedings.
[...]
Starting your levain
» 250 grams All-purpose flour
» 250 grams Water, ideally at 75°F/23.8°C
[Combine, cover, and leave on counter for 24 hours.]
[...]
Feeding your levain
» 1500 grams All-purpose flour
» 1500 grams Water, ideally at 75°F/23.8°C
Combine 250 grams each water and flour in a plastic or glass container. Add 150 grams of the 24-hour-old starter; discard the rest. Stir to combine well, then cover and return to the same place.
[...]
Repeat the feeding every 12 hours, using 250 grams each flour and water and 150 grams starter (discard the excess starter). [...] It will grow stronger with continued feedings and will be at optimal strength after 2 weeks of twice-daily feedings.