We live in a polarised world. We see that paradigm of polarity writ large in the fractious debate around the consumption of animal sourced foodstuffs.
Once upon a time there were vegetarians who cut meat from their diets but continued to eat dairy and eggs. Then the vegan movement gathered pace and vegetarianism was looked on by hard core vegans as slacking. And in recent years the term, ‘plant based’ has become ubiquitous. Helpfully vague and fashionably green it is something that both vegans and veggies can subscribe to. For food processors and retailers it is a gift. The only threat to the term as a badge of honour, it would seem, is over exposure.
Jayne Buxton shows clearly where she stands in the debate by calling her book ‘The Great Plant-Based Con’. I’m sure more emollient titles were discussed, but perhaps they wouldn’t have done justice to the nature of the debate. It is instructive that many reviews on Goodreads give the GP-BC either a 1 star or 5 star review. As I gave it a 5 you can guess where I am coming from!
Having acknowledged my bias, I want to suggest that this is a book that very much needed to be written. Buxton refers to the fair wind that is behind the plant-based narrative as the ‘plant-based zeitgeist’ and it certainly feels like that. But all zeitgeists need to be challenged, rather than being accepted at face value, before they turn into something more problematic. So, for advocates and sceptics alike this is a must read and raises hard questions that need answers.
The book is very well written and marshals a lot of evidence with clarity and conviction. Personally, I think it was a mistake not to include the footnotes within the book, but that would have made it a very long book indeed. Having an interest in this subject, I checked through the references provided on-line and there is nothing to hide, in fact there were several excellent rabbit holes that I disappeared down from time to time!
The book is structured in 4 helpful parts
Part One – Is the plant-based diet better for your health?
Part Two – Will a plant-based diet save the planet?
Part Three – Who is advocating for the plant-based diet?
Part Four – How should we eat?
My understanding of veganism is that, at heart, it is a moral choice, a decision to not exploit sentient animals in any way, not to slaughter and eat them and not to consume anything they produce. Many vegans are understandably passionate about their way of life. However, the vast majority of the world’s population has remained steadfastly omnivore, eating a balanced diet of both animal sourced and plant sourced foods.
But now those who advocate a plant-based diet have added to the vegan moral argument a further two reasons to try and persuade human beings across the planet to ditch meat in favour of plant-based. Those two reasons are health and climate. It is these two arguments that Jayne Buxton systematically dismantles in the opening two parts of the book.
Part One: Is the plant-based diet better for your health? Buxton begins with the well known work of Ancel Keys in America and the rise in significance of Epidemiological Studies using food frequency questionnaires. Such studies can at best show association but not causation. Any evidence for health risks being linked to a particular food is, therefore, tentative at best and mischievous at worst. Perhaps this is the reason that so many studies appear to contradict one another. In fact, if you were to be cynical you could say that it’s possible to pay your money and construct a trial that will give the results you require!
That is certainly what happens when it comes to the headlines when these studies are reported. Accompanying a study there is often a press release that ensures the articles written about the study will report what the study’s funders and academics want them to report. Most journalists will simply not have time to read a technical report extending to many pages. This is what happened with a report published by The Journal of the American Heart Association in February 2021. The Mail Online headline screamed, “High Protein Vegan Diet Can Slash The Risk Of Early Death In Older Women By Almost 50%” However what the report actually said was, “After adjustment for age, race/ethnicity, socio-economic status, dietary and lifestyle factors, and baseline and family history of diseases, animal protein intake was not associated with all-cause or cause-specific mortality, comparing the highest with the lowest quintile.” Quite a disconnect between headline and article!
Part Two: Will a plant-based diet save the planet? So much of the so-called evidence for meat production damaging the climate can be linked to the Poore and Nemecek 2018 study. It is repeatedly quoted and referenced. Buxton suggests that Joseph Poore, far from being an objective academic, is someone with an emotional investment in veganism. She then goes on to list the reasons why this and other such studies are flawed: “In addition to conflating reductions in individuals’ food emissions with reductions in total emissions, plant based advocates and the media that gives them a voice contribute to a misrepresentation of the emissions story in five important ways: exaggerating total emissions from animal foods; neglecting to account for the carbon sequestration effect of livestock farming; misrepresenting the difference between methane and CO2; disregarding nutritional considerations; and treating the outcomes of some studies as though they were definitive and incontrovertible.”
And, of course, we will have to continue to feed a growing population. If we are reducing or eliminating animal-based foods, nutrition, particularly protein, will need to come from elsewhere. ‘Plant-based’ processors and manufacturers are queuing up to fill that role, but are somewhat cagey about what the emissions of their factory produced products look like. Even Marco Springmann, one of the plant-based ‘high priests’ has said, “Beyond and Impossible (Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods) need to better assess their carbon footprint. These companies make claims about sustainability that they do not sufficiently back up with data.”
Part Three: Who is advocating for the plant-based diet and why. This is perhaps the most worrying section of the book revealing much string pulling behind the scenes by big food, big ag and big pharma, the mega companies with global spread who stand to do very nicely out of controlling the narrative and steering the zeitgeist. Buxton reveals a Pandora’s box (and alphabet soup) of dodgy dealing and corporate control. She is particularly scathing of the EAT Lancet Planetary diet and those behind it, saying, “…this near vegan diet that, by the commission’s own admission, is not appropriate for the young, the old, the sick, the frail, the malnourished or pregnant women, and which fails – in the eyes of so many – to take into account environmental and agricultural realities.”
The problem for the large food companies is that there is little money for them to be made out of fresh food that goes straight from farm to fork. What they want is to be able to take farm produced commodities in large quantities that can be processed and packaged into high value products on the supermarket shelf. Or, as Buxton says, “…the plant based revolution is essentially about adding value to cheap raw materials through ultra processing and charging premium prices for the end product.” And what’s more it legitimates the substitution of natural products with ultra-high processed ones, “…the [plant-based] movement has gifted to processed-food manufacturers a reason to produce more hyper-palatable high-carb processed foods. What's more, they'll be able to stick ‘heart healthy’ and ‘green’ labels on the packaging to make consumers feel good about buying them.”
The final part of the book ends on a positive note, calling for a balanced diet of whole foods. The question being, “..what foods are essential to human health and longevity, and can these foods now be produced in a way that minimises environmental harm and maximises environmental benefits.”
My concern about the plant-based zeitgeist is that it has become a Trojan Horse for veganism, an extreme diet that may work for a minority, but has to be supplemented, and for the majority of people, particularly at certain stages of life is worryingly inadequate. At the same time plant-based is also serving as a smokescreen for fossil fuel companies as people (young people in particular) absorb a message that suggests the best thing you can do for your health and the environment is eat less/no meat. That is clearly not the case, and I am grateful to Jayne Buxton for daring to write this book, that challenges that narrative.