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Royal Robbins: The American Climber

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"Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring." --Alex Honnold







Acclaimed writer David Smart illuminates the fascinating life of Royal Robbins---in all its soulful ambition, rivalry, and romance. Royal Robbins chronicles his early years growing up as a latchkey kid in Southern California, the push and pull between being an aspiring banker or one of the original Camp 4 dirtbags, and his later decades as a father, husband, kayaker, and the trailblazing founder of the outdoor apparel company that bears his name. This intimate, colorful tour of climbing history covering Yosemite, the Tetons, the Gunks, the Alps, the United Kingdom, and more from the 1960s onward features star characters such as Liz Robbins-- Robbins’s wife and a pioneering adventurer in her own right-- Yvon Chouinard, John Harlin, Steve Roper, Warren Harding, Tom Frost, and Doug Tompkins.

An important addition to our knowledge of the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite and the development of the clean climbing ethos, Royal Robbins sheds new light on an elemental figure of outdoor culture.

333 pages, Kindle Edition

Published September 1, 2023

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David Smart

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5 stars
19 (27%)
4 stars
39 (57%)
3 stars
9 (13%)
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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
6,205 reviews80 followers
September 9, 2023
I won this book in a goodreads drawing.

A biography of one of the legendary rock climber. Coming from very humble beginnings, his talent and drive made him a legend in rock climbing for his daring and skill.

An American story.
Profile Image for Viktoria.
224 reviews8 followers
June 1, 2024
Great read for any climber or outdoor enthusiast. I was impressed with thorough research Smart put into this biography. Though a controversial character, Royal Robbins was a pioneer of the American climbing, and especially big wall Yosemite climbing. I thoroughly enjoyed the book, and might reread it in the future.
Profile Image for Jess Conley.
215 reviews
August 23, 2024
Enjoyable read

I won this book in a goodreads giveaway a long time ago. The first chapter didn't really draw me in so it took a long time to complete. Once I got to the second I started getting more comfortable with the story and writing style. By the end I was completely in it and am glad to have won this book. I wish the author all the best as do I wish the Robbins family.
Profile Image for Brooks.
182 reviews6 followers
January 4, 2024
Great biography telling the complete story of Royal Robbins.
Profile Image for Logan Fortenberry.
37 reviews1 follower
August 15, 2025
entertaining biography. not so interested in the religious stuff near the end. clearly a lot of research went into this
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews

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