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512 pages, Hardcover
First published June 1, 2011
[T]here was a long controversy about Spanish culture that had lasted nearly thirty years. Was it Roman, or was it Arab? After a lot of argument, it was decided it was Roman. [...] Spaniards like to see themselves as Romans and Visigoths or Celts, or even Phoenicians. [...] [P]ossibly from the sixth century B.C., Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians established settlements along the Mediterranean coast of the Iberian Peninsula and on the Balearic Islands, while Celtic tribes coming over the Pyrenees settled in the north. [Historical Influences | of pigs and olive trees: { celts, romans, and visigoths }]
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The discovery of the New World had an enormous influence, [...] revolutioniz[ing] the diets of the Old and the New Worlds. The early colonists found the native inhabitants eating foods they had never seen. Among these were corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and capsicum peppers, [...] as well as Jerusalem artichokes, pumpkins, pineapples, papayas, guavas, custard apples, avocados, and peanuts.[...] They tasted a chocolate drink and [...] found turkeys and tobacco. [Historical Influences | red and yellow in the kitchen: { from the new world }]
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I asked Xavier Mestres about dishes of French origin that had been transformed and Hispanicized. I was given béchamel as an example. In Spain, it is sometimes made with white wine or sherry, and sometimes tomato. Here it includes fried onions, grated lemon zest, and saffron. The crunchy topping makes a lovely contrast to the creamy béchamel. [fish and seafood in saffron béchamel { bechamel de mariscos—catalonia }]
The historic regions, now seventeen autonomous communities (nineteen with Ceuta and Melilla, Apanish enclaves on the Moroccan coast), each divided into provinces, were born out of the old medieval kingdoms. Each has its own histoory and culture, [...] and a cuisine that springs from the land — the comarca, or terroir — and also reflects the past. The first thing you discover about Spain is it extraordinary geographical diversity. The greatest difference is between the very long, narrow coastal plains, with their string of vibrant port cities, and the vast empty interior — a high plateau and huge mountain ranges. Traveling through, you see endless flatlands and gentle hills, great rivers, mountain forests, marshlands, and deserts. There are seas of wheat and of rice, and endless landscapes carpeted with grapevines and olive trees. [...] Rural communities were isolated, and culinary styles developed separately. [...] [E]very village has its own distinctive dishes or versions of a dish, and [...] every coastal region has at least three distinctive culinary styles; one of the sea, one of the rural coastal plain, and one of the mountains. [The Faint Aroma of Lemon Zest and Cinnamon: an Introduction]
Flavors [of Spanish olive oils] range from sweet through fruity, nutty, spicy, and peppery to pleasantly bitter and pungent. Fragrance — fruity, floral, nutty, grassy — can be elusive or intense. [...] There are more than 260 varieties of olive trees in Spain, including subvarieties that have adapted to different localities or were developed through grafting. Arbequina, Picual, Hojiblanca, Empeltre, and Cornicabra are the most extensively grown for oil. A few, like Manzanilla, are better for table olives than for oil. [...] During the writing of this book I tasted and brought home some fabulous Spanish extra virgin olive oils. [...] The passion for good-quality olive oil is a recent phenomenon, as new as the great Spanish extra virgins that are now being produced. [Spanish olive oils]
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I have never been to a country that has as great a variety of legumes and as much respect for and pride in them as Spain. You can see displays in shops and markets of more than twenty types of beans, lentils, and chickpeas, with cards giving their provenance, down to the name of the village where they were grown. Beans — small or huge; round or flat; white, black, red, pale green, or speckled — are grown in many different parts of Spain. Apart from black-eyed peas and broad beans, they all came from the New World. By the sixteenth century, farmers were selling the dried legumes at markets. Generally referred to as alubias or judías, they also have regional names [Bean and Chickpea Stews]
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A research group identified thirty-six Spanish honeys. The most fragrant are those that come from bees that feed on the nectars of orange and lemon blossoms (my personal favorites); on rosemary, thyme, lavender, and heathers. There are also chestnut, blackberry, sage, alfalfa, clover, avocado, buckwheat, and eucalyptus honeys. The most common, called miliflores (a thousand flowers), are blends from different wildflowers. The most important single-source varieties come from sunflowers.
[honey { miel }]
Pepe Iglesias says there are seventeen varieties of indigenous apples in Asturias, ranging from sweet and semi-sweet to tart and slightly bitter, many of them used for making cider. Their Reineta apples, which seem to be one of the oldest apples around, are used for baking and cooking. According to the British National Fruit Collection, there are at least fifteen different types of Reinettes, most of them in France (the French say there are dozens), but none in Britain and possibly none in America — although there is one type in Canada. [reineta apples]