Why knit one sock and then start all over again to make a match? Instead, knit two socks at the same time on two circular needles! With this creative approach, you can slip a sock on each foot as soon as you bind off. * Get off to a great start with one basic sock pattern; then experiment with seven more designs * Make cuffs, feet, and toes match exactly from sock to sock; no more measuring as you go * Discover how easy it is to convert any sock pattern for double-pointed needles to this ingenious method
2.5☆ rounded to 3☆ It's definitely not the be all and end all book on socks. However, it's laid out in a concise thoughtful manner and the pictures are well done. The two-at-a-time technique is well illustrated and there are some good notes that a top-down sock knitter may find helpful, especially if they're unfamiliar with using two circular needles vs. magic loop or DPN's. She does describe Kitchener tolerably well. The different areas of the sock were detailed nicely. I especially appreciated the chart of sock measurements for various shoe sizes. There were also charts explaining the different symbols on the labels. There are multiple patterns of varying skill and fiber choice including options for cables, lace and beads although only one pattern is charted. I did see a few advanced patterns I would like to try, including a pair I think my mother would enjoy although the majority aren't anything to write home about.
However, the cons:
• I was horrified she recommended tying a knot to close the cuff and begin knitting in the round. It's entirely unwarranted regardles of the technique used be it magic loop, DPN's or two circulars and I've made socks with all of those techniques at various times, one-ar-a-time or two-at-a-time. Depending on the technique you used to cast on you can either cast on an extra stitch and then cast it off over the first stitch before weaving the tail into the ribbing after knitting a few inches OR knitting several rows and using the tail to close the gap before weaving it through the ribbing.
• She doesn't include even a basic description of how to weave in ends let alone an illustration.
• She only describes one type of cast on.
• She only described one type of increase vs. multiple decreases.
• There are no alternate toes or heels discussed.
• She doesn't explain why she chooses to use two different lengths of cables, 16" & 24". Especically since 16" seems rather short to work well. Mine were both the same length, 24" or longer, when I've used this technique and I didn't have an issue. I can only presume it's to help keep track of the working needle although she also utilizes point protectors for that so it seems unnecessarily complicated.
• She doesn't describe how to properly utilize the slipped stitches to pick up the gusset stitches so they look neat & tidy. She doesn't even mention they need to be knit as they're picked up which is important as I didn't understand that the first time I did socks and the rows were a bit wonky.
Really, although this reads as if a beginner knitter could expect to pick up this book with little foreknowledge of sock techniques and successfully knit their first pair with the super vanilla pattern provided to illustrate using the two circulars only some of the techniques needed were well described. I got the impression that the knitter was expected to be familiar with those not described (i.e. picking up the gusset stitches, weaving in ends, multiple ways of joining in the round, etc.) but it also seemed rather random which ones were and were not provided. If it were an issue of space one of the plane jane patterns could have easily been dropped with no great loss.
A good introduction to the most common approach for two socks at once on circular needles. The photos and explanations are sometimes a bit hard to follow, though.
The author provides thorough instructions from the cast on at the cuff all the way to grafting the toe. I had a problem with the formatting because these instructions were mostly in big chunks of text. Some of them are in standard knit pattern format but the vast majority are in paragraphs. This makes following along challenging because you're knitting and then peering to find your place.
I'm sure she included an explanation in all that prose somewhere but the use of a 16" circular was problematic (for me), especially with the basic sock which is knit with worsted weight. The stitches extend nearly the length of the needle and the needle just barely stretches around to be knit comfortably as the sock grows.
Even with the challenging format, what I expected to be the trickiest part - the heel flap and gusset - was a real breeze.
The patterns in this book are pretty basic, as they should be for anyone just learning a new technique. I wish Antje Gillingham had included alternate toe and heel options along with them. If you want to learn or to refresh your memory on how to knit two socks at a time on two circular needles this is a great reference.
I had never knitted socks before picking up this book. I was afraid of the two socks not matching, or worse, never even starting the second sock. This method is great and the explanation is very easy to follow! I'm halfway through my second pair now, and had to buy the book for myself when I could no longer renew it from the library. I think it will prove to be a great investment.
This is the way that learned to knit 2 socks at a time and changed my life forever. I now also use Magic Loop. This book ended my second sock syndrome and made sure that both socks were identical. The pictures are wonderful demos of the techniques being taught.
This book contains some sweet sock patterns, but there are other books that provide more comprehensive tutorials on circular knitting (including how to knit two socks at a time). The author is obviously a passionate knitter and I really like her friendly, enthusiastic approach.