In Bolivia

by Eric Lawlor

Lawlor provides a rollicking and occasionally harrowing journey through one of the Western world's least-known and most backward nations, Bolivia.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction

226 pages, Paperback

First published November 20, 1989

Reviews

[Jim · Rating 5 out of 5]

South America has two landlocked countries: Paraguay and Bolivia. Both are as dysfunctional as they come; and both have excellent books about their respective Brummagem cultures. For Paraguay, there is John Gimlette's At the Tomb of the Inflatable Pig. For Bolivia, we have In Bolivia by Eric Lawlor. (Though Gimlette went Lawlor one better when he subsequently wrote a book about Suriname and the Guyanas entitled Wild Coast.)

Lawlor said he wrote this book because, according to his parents, this was the first word he ever enunciated as a baby. In my case, I am interested in Bolivia because -- back when I lived in Cleveland -- my father got a deal in some "hot watches" at the West Side Market. My brother got a Hormilton watch, while I got a Bolivia. It ceased to work within weeks, just like the eponymous country.

I have toyed with the idea of visiting Bolivia on an upcoming trip to Peru (if it ever takes place). Still, I am a little worried about the soroche, or altitude sickness, as Brazil is either too high and cold or too hot and buggy, depending on where you go.

I had originally read this book years ago and find it not to have aged too badly (unlike me). Lawlor spent several months traveling around the country, going to wedding parties with Indians, consorting with Cocaine Cowboys in Santa Cruz and getting stuck in that most Bolivian of institutions, namely: A whole town going on strike and barricading itself off from the world. He seems to have missed several tourist hot spots, such as the massive Salar de Uyuni salt flats.

Lawlor's concluding remarks are candid and interesting:

I had come to this country certain I'd like it. It was rebellious and unruly and defiant of authority. Rather stupidly, I thought I was too. How could we fail to get along? But Bolivia proved too rich for my blood. It had taught me that I place a greater value on the consolations of society than I realized. Asked, three months ago, which I prized more, impetuosity or restraint, I would have picked the former. But not now. In me the law of measure had its newest champion.

So, in the end, I am glad that Lawlor had these, uh, exotic experiences, allowing me to enjoy them vicariously. I think that Peru would be quite enough for me, and Bolivia perhaps a bit over the edge.

[Tania · Rating 4 out of 5]

"Poor Bolivia." This is the lament heard by the author, and by its people, throughout the book. Lawlor wrote In Bolivia in the late 80's after an extended trip to explore the nation. He went well-prepared. He knew which cities he wanted to visit, he knew about the culture, he knew the pitfalls and dangers that awaited him, and he had all the supplies, language skills, and money (apparently) that he needed to survive 3 months in a remote South American country. Lawlor takes us from La Cruz to Santa Fe, searching for the reason why Bolivia seems to have struggled so much within its history to find itself as a country, only to see one government after the next fail. He interacts with the natives, both of European and Indian descent, he experiences the rituals and festivities, he eats the food, he even veers off with some ill-advised drug use, all in an effort to understand Bolivia and her people.

Lawlor has an impressive knowledge of the subject on which he speaks. Interspersing his narrative with history - of the wars, of the presidents and generals, of the failed governments, and more - the reader gains a good picture of Bolivia through the date of the book's publication. The author's western disdain for the locals' lack of discipline and motivation to succeed can't be helped, but it rarely gets in the way of his true purpose, which is to expose and highlight real life in Bolivia. As a travelogue it is not encouraging - this book does not make me want to visit Bolivia. But as a history of a place and its people, and a book about (then) current affairs, it hits its mark.

[Stefani · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone with an odd tilt in the direction of travelogues from small, forgotten places (though I would hardly call Bolivia “forgotten,” perhaps undiscovered is a better word), I was thrilled to get my hands on this paperback, culled directly from my father's collection of dispatches from obscure locales. Professing a strange childhood obsession with Bolivia (his parents were rabid enthusiasts of world news) Eric Lawlor lands in La Paz determined to untangle the complexities of its political system, enduring conquistador culture, and Indian population, as story he tells with great wit and good humor. Venturing further into the interior of this mountainous nation, Lawlor encounters a lawless, Gabriel Garcia Marquez level of surreality: grave robbers, infuriating bureaucracy, and a market that sells shrunken heads and dried embryos (but not cocktail shakers) in ample quantity. He's solicited to buy cocaine no less than 100 times by everyone he encounters in Santa Cruz. Truly madcap adventures.

[Ellen · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is somewhat outdated, so I'm not sure how much of what the author wrote still stands in modern Bolivia, but regardless it was a witty and interesting travel memoir that at least allowed me to see into 1980s Bolivia.

[Joan · Rating 5 out of 5]

So, I've actually been to Bolivia. Almost 3 years ago my brother married his longtime girlfriend in Bolivia so my parents and I and my brother (and no one else who was caucasian) went. I felt like royalty being shuffled around from place to place but it was a once in a life time experience that I'll always remember fondly.

So onto the book. I guess I would really only recommend this book to people interested or have been to Bolivia, or been to South America. There were a lot of stories that the author relates as he talks to people all over the place. There were little pieces of info that I picked up on having been there that I don't think I would have if I had not visited. I liked when he talked about a wedding he went to because I went to a wedding in Bolivia. I bought the book, so I would read it again.

[Pedro · Rating 3 out of 5]

Alguns eventos neste livro são tão estranhos que não sei se serão ficção ou não. Pode-se ler como uma trago-comédia na forma de uma viagem pelo país mais inexplorado da América do Sul. Escrito num estilo descontraído e um nível acessível, o autor é fã dos apartes em que nos bombardeia com informação enciclopédica, o que pode não se adequar a todos os gostos. Contudo é uma excelente leitura para todos os que se interessarem na Bolívia dos anos oitenta.

[Andrew · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a well written travel book, through most of Bolivia in the late 80s. Interesting to see how things are similar or different today, especially in Santa Cruz. The authors insights and understanding of the history are great. His stories are somewhat unbelievable at times, but he definitely meets some interesting people. Worth reading for those who have an interest in Bolivia.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

What's the difference between Bolivia and Paraguay? Not a whole lot it seems from reading this book and Carver's Paradise with Serpents nearly back-to-back. Bolivia came across as a bit more laid back, but pretty much the same dysfunctional mess, with less overt violence.

[Nathan Marone]

After living in Bolivia for two years, I found this book helpful as a way to reflect on the country's history and persona. The journalism is dated and there is much to update as far as Bolivia's recent developments, both politically and economically. The writing wasn't great, but I'd recommend for anyone visiting or planning to live in Bolivia.