What do you think?
Rate this book
Turning the Tables: Restaurants from the Inside Out
Go behind the swinging doors of the restaurant world with eGullet's irreverent Fat Guy. Have you ever wondered how that flawless piece of fish or that rare farmstead cheese reached your plate? Or how to read between the lines of a restaurant review? Or why some restaurants succeed while others fail? Steven A. Shaw has the answers -- and he offers them up with style and humor. More than a how-to guide, Turning the Tables is an exploration and a celebration of the incredibly intricate workings of professional kitchens and dining rooms. No snooty critic, Shaw has crisscrossed North America in search of insider knowledge at every level, from temples of haute cuisine to barbecue joints and hot dog stands. He has gone undercover in kitchens and dining rooms, trailed top restaurateurs and suppliers, and has the burns, girth, and aching feet to prove it. In Turning the Tables , Shaw weaves an intriguing tapestry of journalism and opinion to deliver an unprecedented look at every aspect of the world of restaurants. His infectious enthusiasm and penetrating observations make Turning the Tables a joy to read. It is a paean to the cooks, servers, farmers, and restaurateurs who sustain us, and an unrivaled examination of a world that remains hidden to most.
240 pages, Hardcover
First published August 1, 2005
3 people are currently reading
83 people want to read
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 30 of 30 reviews
April 23, 2011
I give the author credit for trying, but the book seems to have limited appeal -- those into the New York high end scene, as well as those with an interest in the business end of things should get the most out of it. The first section was a strong start, featuring Shaw's apprenticeships and behind-the-scenes anecdotes, though those who've read several other restaurant staff books might find the revelations not-so-new. He closes well in decrying (almost mocking) purists, who criticize any small deviations from "tradition" at all.
Recommended, if your library has a copy, or you see it cheap at a used bookstore. Those who go further out of their way to read it may end up disappointed.
Recommended, if your library has a copy, or you see it cheap at a used bookstore. Those who go further out of their way to read it may end up disappointed.
September 13, 2023
If I take it as the book form of a pleasant dinner conversation then this book is very satisfactory. I enjoyed it, I learned a little, and if I want to learn more about anything he mentioned Shaw provides a handy list of recommended books at the end.
As he clearly states, this book is not an exposé. It’s not really comprehensive enough to be called a guide for dining out either. (Unless the one thing you need guidance on is making a reservation at a hard-to-book restaurant, Shaw does spend a lot of time on that subject.)
As he clearly states, this book is not an exposé. It’s not really comprehensive enough to be called a guide for dining out either. (Unless the one thing you need guidance on is making a reservation at a hard-to-book restaurant, Shaw does spend a lot of time on that subject.)
December 7, 2017
Shaw, who started eGullet, was one of the first people to note, and be a part of, the new world of online food journalism and community-driven forums. It wasn't until I was 3/4 of the way through this book that I thought to google him nd found out he passed away 2014 from an apparent heart attack.
There's a lot of reminiscent wistfulness reading this book that was published in 2006 - about an exciting new Spanish chef called Ferran Adria, about the Starwich sandwich chain he's convinced will success (it went bust), about the exciting new Cafe Gray by Gray Kunz (it closed after 3.5years).
The core of this book, about what really drives the restaurant industry, remains true and relevant even today. This is a mature look at the perils, pains and joys of hospitality from "The Fat Guy" who well and truly loved and respected what so many of us take for granted.
There's a lot of reminiscent wistfulness reading this book that was published in 2006 - about an exciting new Spanish chef called Ferran Adria, about the Starwich sandwich chain he's convinced will success (it went bust), about the exciting new Cafe Gray by Gray Kunz (it closed after 3.5years).
The core of this book, about what really drives the restaurant industry, remains true and relevant even today. This is a mature look at the perils, pains and joys of hospitality from "The Fat Guy" who well and truly loved and respected what so many of us take for granted.
June 8, 2011
Like a lot of quick reads, I got this one from the bargain bin. It's a slim volume, not much substance on the surface nor internally, for that matter. The cover was generic, unremarkable, unmemorable. Being only 50 cents, I said why not?
Shaw is a self professed Fat Guy who eats out up to 20 nights a month. He parlayed that into an online culinary presence which eventually supported his dining hobby. He became a full time critic via this unconventional path.
These experiences inform his opinions and his ethics, which seem to quite consistent and valid. The first half of the book is a chronicle of Shaw's experiences in the kitchens and with the suppliers of various high end NYC restaurants. A highlight of this section is the story of Shandor, an immigrant who learned at the feet of Joel Rubuchon and other masters and ended up in a small restaurant off the beaten path in western Florida, doing all the cooking himself for 25 tables each night, with his waiters preparing the cold plates and the desserts. A very good digression, but the rest of the book takes a dive after that, I'm afraid.
Shaw's preoccupation with haute cuisine overwhelms the overall message of "good food for those with good taste". His statements and proclamations about chefs like Ferran Adria and Gray Lunz are gushing with praise but there is not enough evidence supporting his declarations. There is simply not enough "how" the food is so good, only that the reader should trust this well fed fatso, since he clearly eats more than any of us.
This took about a day or so of braindead distracted reading on my part. I felt like I got the pertinent good stuff and advice out of it and ignored the rest. It is mostly a glorified food/restaurant opinion column anyway. Skip it, there are a lot more excellent food writers out there, and most of them have actually cooked and worked a day in their lives in the industry.
Shaw is a self professed Fat Guy who eats out up to 20 nights a month. He parlayed that into an online culinary presence which eventually supported his dining hobby. He became a full time critic via this unconventional path.
These experiences inform his opinions and his ethics, which seem to quite consistent and valid. The first half of the book is a chronicle of Shaw's experiences in the kitchens and with the suppliers of various high end NYC restaurants. A highlight of this section is the story of Shandor, an immigrant who learned at the feet of Joel Rubuchon and other masters and ended up in a small restaurant off the beaten path in western Florida, doing all the cooking himself for 25 tables each night, with his waiters preparing the cold plates and the desserts. A very good digression, but the rest of the book takes a dive after that, I'm afraid.
Shaw's preoccupation with haute cuisine overwhelms the overall message of "good food for those with good taste". His statements and proclamations about chefs like Ferran Adria and Gray Lunz are gushing with praise but there is not enough evidence supporting his declarations. There is simply not enough "how" the food is so good, only that the reader should trust this well fed fatso, since he clearly eats more than any of us.
This took about a day or so of braindead distracted reading on my part. I felt like I got the pertinent good stuff and advice out of it and ignored the rest. It is mostly a glorified food/restaurant opinion column anyway. Skip it, there are a lot more excellent food writers out there, and most of them have actually cooked and worked a day in their lives in the industry.
December 29, 2015
Not sure where or when I got this book, but I brought it with me on a road trip this weekend and read it very quickly. Bookmark in the book was from a 2007 trip to Cancun so I've had it at least that long. It's autographed as well.
I've been on a food reading kick for a bit and this is a nice change from "food is evil." A bit dated, the book doesn't really cover the role of the internet in restaurant reviews, and he thought magazines and newspapers would never touch blogs. Oops. Nor did it touch on the recent recession - so some of the "new" restaurants he mentions are no longer in business; Cafe Gray, Starwich and I believe the Alain Ducasse restaurant at the Essex House. A lot has changed in the food world since this book - but in many ways things are still the same. There isn't too much new material in this book - but it's fun to see the inside of things - the daily inspection of USHG properties - whose empire has grown again since - and chefs eating at their own properties.
I'm now off to stalk his reading list and see if he's written anything else since. For a non foodie I seem to love reading about food and restaurants. I'm not familiar with his website, but I might need to go check it out.
I've been on a food reading kick for a bit and this is a nice change from "food is evil." A bit dated, the book doesn't really cover the role of the internet in restaurant reviews, and he thought magazines and newspapers would never touch blogs. Oops. Nor did it touch on the recent recession - so some of the "new" restaurants he mentions are no longer in business; Cafe Gray, Starwich and I believe the Alain Ducasse restaurant at the Essex House. A lot has changed in the food world since this book - but in many ways things are still the same. There isn't too much new material in this book - but it's fun to see the inside of things - the daily inspection of USHG properties - whose empire has grown again since - and chefs eating at their own properties.
I'm now off to stalk his reading list and see if he's written anything else since. For a non foodie I seem to love reading about food and restaurants. I'm not familiar with his website, but I might need to go check it out.
August 7, 2012
Shaw has written a book to be appreciated by people who enjoy dining out (as opposed to grabbing a bite to eat at the nearest McDonalds). Using his knowledge of the food industry, he treats the reader to an inside look at restaurants, what makes them work, how the food appears on the table, and even some guesses about the future of dining in America.
Most of his references are to places in New York City, but the process is repeated in most places, so we can use what we take for Turning the Tables to our own areas. I didn't realize that I had applied some of his "rules" for how to get a good table and service to the places we ate in my small home town.
An engaging and thought-provoking book about an activity we can all indulge in.
Most of his references are to places in New York City, but the process is repeated in most places, so we can use what we take for Turning the Tables to our own areas. I didn't realize that I had applied some of his "rules" for how to get a good table and service to the places we ate in my small home town.
An engaging and thought-provoking book about an activity we can all indulge in.
June 14, 2008
Favorite Quote:
Whether it is an attack on carbohydrates, calories, or fat, the message is always the same: food is bad for you…Of course, food isn’t bad for you. But worrying so much about food might be… “There is a sense among many Americans that food is as much a poison as it is a nutrient, and that eating is almost as dangerous as not eating,” says Rozin. For example, Americans are so freaked out about food that, when asked if they would be willing to give up eating altogether, in favor of a pill that could fulfill all their nutritional needs, 26 percent said yes….
Whether it is an attack on carbohydrates, calories, or fat, the message is always the same: food is bad for you…Of course, food isn’t bad for you. But worrying so much about food might be… “There is a sense among many Americans that food is as much a poison as it is a nutrient, and that eating is almost as dangerous as not eating,” says Rozin. For example, Americans are so freaked out about food that, when asked if they would be willing to give up eating altogether, in favor of a pill that could fulfill all their nutritional needs, 26 percent said yes….
November 6, 2007
What a huge disappointment. Shaw provides some brief insight into to evolution of fusion cuisine, the benefits of becoming a "regular" and the decline of the french restaurant in America. Beyond that - it's self aggrandizing drivel. Give me a break. In an ironic twist, this volume of meaningless blathering reinforces Shaw's own suggestion that the restaurant reviewer's role in the dining equation is overrated.
December 21, 2007
an interesting book that provides a lot of insight into the industry. it does however, seem that most of his experiences with restaurants are more focused on the east coast and so there are definitely some observations he makes that i'm not sure i totally agree with. i do think this book does provide people with a better understanding of exactly what goes on in a restaurant and i hope that people appreciate their dining experiences more and the people who serve them.
February 2, 2009
somehow i thought there was going to be something more provacative in this. i'm not sure what i was expecting, but it didn't deliver. the underlying message: if you want a good table and good service, become a regular at a restaurant. and by the way, in the age of open table, restaurants keep notes on you and when you area no-show. be nice to hostesses and servers.
thanks, that was really insightful...
thanks, that was really insightful...
November 18, 2007
very interesting first chapter about how to make the most of good restaurants (i.e. getting a reservation, becoming a regular, etc.), but the rest of the book was not as good. the chapter on food sources seemed particularly surface-level, and it always felt like he was trying to slam organics, slow food, the interest in eating locally, etc. in the end, i just didn't like the guy very much.
June 12, 2011
I have found that I really enjoy stories about the world of restaurants, but this wasn't the best. Shaw tries to cover far too many topics in a short volume and ends up giving short shrift to everything, plus his advice seems to be fairly useless unless you live in NYC. I bumped it up a notch because of the reference to Matt Amster-Burton, my friend Laurie's husband.
April 3, 2015
Underwhelmed.
About one third was really good insight into the restaurant business, one third was self-indulgent (a whole chapter to explain why his are the best kinds of reviews?!), and the final third felt like padding to get a couple of interesting on-line articles up to a minimum length for a book.
About one third was really good insight into the restaurant business, one third was self-indulgent (a whole chapter to explain why his are the best kinds of reviews?!), and the final third felt like padding to get a couple of interesting on-line articles up to a minimum length for a book.
July 26, 2014
A somewhat interesting book about the behind-the-scenes in restaurants, more on the business end versus the cooking. However, I couldn't get past the condescension. "There are two types of people eating sushi in a Japanese restaurant: those at the sushi bar and tourists." This is of course in a section about how to impress your sushi chef with knowing looks and lots of money. Didn't finish.
July 25, 2007
Really average book that needed more substance. My mind wandered a lot as I was trying to read it. I didn't find a lot of interesting information. Maybe his web site is worth a browse for restaurant reviews, but the book lacked content.
November 29, 2007
Steven Shaw (founder/director of eGullet) is a good writer, smart, earnest and with a decent sense of humor. I read this after meeting him in person, which admittedly made the book better. If you love food, restaurants, and are fascinated by "the life" you will dig this.
August 7, 2010
Very interesting. A neat behind-the-scenes look at the food industry and a guide for people who really like to dine, on how to have the best relationship with your favorite restaurant. Lots of suggestions for continued reading.
December 11, 2010
Great book for restaurant lovers. While most of the topics can be generalized to casual restaurants as well, the book focuses mostly on fine dining restaurants. I particularly found the bits about becoming a regular interesting, since my philosophy is to eat somewhere new whenever I can.
December 4, 2007
a fantastic look at what working a restaurant is about
February 28, 2008
What really happens in the food industry. Great book for foodies.
March 4, 2008
Rehash of lots of tips and insights from various sources. Decently written, but far too thin a gruel.
July 22, 2008
One of the dumbest books I ever read. Its a hodge podge of ideas about restaurants that are mostly wrong.
November 22, 2008
Good information but, kind of like this review, actually, a bit dry. Good to borrow, not buy.
January 1, 2010
The most interesting part was the section about when the author worked in Tom Colicchio's kitchen.
August 3, 2010
Shaw writes in a down-to-earth manner, without sounding like a pretentious or snooty critic. A quick read--author jumped around a bit, could have gone into more detail for a deeper impact.
July 5, 2011
After flipping around a bit, I eventually just gave up on this book. Some parts of the book were fun and interesting, others were not so much.
May 26, 2015
Really has it for a couple of unnamed, but fairly obvious NYT restaurant reviewers. A big man, with a big appetite for fine food and fine dining
October 18, 2008
Not as good as I had hoped. I kinda of lost interest 1/2 way through and skimmed the rest.
October 12, 2014
Interesting book, if a little New York-centric.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 30 reviews