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Metrodog: The Essential Guide to Raising Your Dog in the City
Shares advice on how to raise a well-behaved, well-adjusted dog in an urban environment, offering tips on everything from housetraining to preventing barking.
- GenresDogsReferenceNonfiction
320 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2001
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Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews
August 31, 2012
Decent. Lots of helpful info here for the urban dog owner. Addresses some things such as riding in elevators and hailing cabs with a dog that I'd not thought of. Authors have a nice, concise writing style. I digested in bits, not all at once.
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November 10, 2022Divided into stages of life, this book is easy to use. It is a bit old by now, but it also won't be the only book I read on the subject.
Notes:
While breeders are often a great choice, not all breeders are good breeders. “Good breeders have one or two litters a year, health certifications, written contracts, spay/neuter requirements, and a lifetime return policy… If this is not what you’re hearing, be suspicious.” (13)
Do you have the following:
A crate and/or gate?
Toys?
Bowls?
Food the dog is used to?
Odor/stain remover?
Antichew product (like a spray)?
Plastic bags for walks?
A trainer or walker lined up? (20)
Pee pads?
Bathmat for under the crate for floor protection?
If you catch the dog starting to squat in the home, startle the dog with a loud sound (a clap, a “Hey!,” or a wall slap will do) and hustle her off to her papers or outside. No yelling, scolding…or punishment… Punishment will only make her think that you hate it when you see her go, and will lead her to going out of sight and/or not wanting to go on lead near you. (21)
“The smell of past mistakes will attract a pup to those same spots, so make sure you use an odor neutralizer/eliminator specially made for the purpose. Homemade concoctions such as vinegar and water will not do the job. And never use a mixture containing ammonia, as it is present in urine and will encourage mistakes.” (22)
“Limit visitors. When possible, keep things quiet for the first few days… Now is not the time to rev her up with wild play. Now is the time to watch, help, encourage, redirect, and reward.” (28)
“Never use newspaper in a crate. They encourage a pup to use the crate as a bathroom.” (37)
Put the crate in a busy area. Prop the door open and ignore it. Allow the dog to explore it at will. Then try putting a comfy blanket in (to be removed when containment starts) and toss his toys into it and few treats as well. Leave a treat in plain sight near the entrance and ignore it again. Do not attempt to cajole him over, which will make the pup more hesitant. In the next day or so, feed him next to it. Then put the food bowl just inside the door. Then farther back once that is comfortable. During meals close the crate door. Stay right there and open it again before any fussing starts. After a day or so of this, put him in the crate for naps. If the dog barks and fusses, wait for quiet behavior and reward that. (38)
Confinement behind a gate: “don’t reward jumping or climbing. If, when you go to pick up your pup, he is leaping against the gate…stop. Pick him up only when he’s not touching the gate.” Or use a treat to lure him off. The idea is that he learns that being away from the gate earns freedom. (42)
Dog parks:
First time sit outside with the dog and watch the other dogs play. Observe the tone of the other dogs’ play. And watch your own dog: eager or overwhelmed?
Next walk your dog near the fence and still outside and continue to observe.
A frightened pup shouldn’t be put in. Continue walking along outside, but with distance.
Note: never throw down food or a coveted toy amid multiple dogs.
“A correction can range anywhere from a serious tone of voice to effective use of an appropriate training tool.” Corrections should be consistent. Don’t allow jumping one day and not another. “A well-placed correction arrives when the dog is thinking about doing something, not after she is deep into it.” “Withholding a treat or toy, putting away his food dish when he fails to sit properly on command at dinner, issuing a command that goes against his desires (“Leave it!”), and a leash correction are a few possibilities.” Do not attach emotion to correction, but be firm. Let the dog experience a result of her actions—a result that is neither overwhelming nor frightening. Corrections, when implemented properly should be infrequent.
“Watch the body language of the animals your dog is playing with. If your dog repeatedly attempts to put his paws on the other dog’s shoulders, lays his head over the other dog’s back, mounts another dog, or continuously blocks another dog’s path, he’s picking a fight…not ‘playing.’” It is time to intervene. (166)
Be aware that a dog sees signals that you’re leaving (getting your coat, grabbing your keys, putting on shoes, going to the door). Help him stay calm by teaching him that these things do not always mean departure. Pick up your keys whenever you pass them and put them back down. Go to the front door, then walk away. Pick up your coat or bag, put it down. Do this casually, just as a part of your day, and soon your dog will hardly notice. The calmer he is when you leave, the less likely he is to become seriously anxious after you leave.” (211)
Encourage your dog to use the crate for naps. Put a worn, unlaundered T-shirt or old sweatshirt in with her, as your smell will be comforting. Store toys in there. Give her all her treats in there. Any time you think of it, tell her to “go to bed” (or “kennel up” or “crate” or whatever), walk with her over to it, use a treat to guide her in, have her lie down, give her a treat, and praise her as she eats it.” In short, make the crate an inviting place. (213)
Notes:
While breeders are often a great choice, not all breeders are good breeders. “Good breeders have one or two litters a year, health certifications, written contracts, spay/neuter requirements, and a lifetime return policy… If this is not what you’re hearing, be suspicious.” (13)
Do you have the following:
A crate and/or gate?
Toys?
Bowls?
Food the dog is used to?
Odor/stain remover?
Antichew product (like a spray)?
Plastic bags for walks?
A trainer or walker lined up? (20)
Pee pads?
Bathmat for under the crate for floor protection?
If you catch the dog starting to squat in the home, startle the dog with a loud sound (a clap, a “Hey!,” or a wall slap will do) and hustle her off to her papers or outside. No yelling, scolding…or punishment… Punishment will only make her think that you hate it when you see her go, and will lead her to going out of sight and/or not wanting to go on lead near you. (21)
“The smell of past mistakes will attract a pup to those same spots, so make sure you use an odor neutralizer/eliminator specially made for the purpose. Homemade concoctions such as vinegar and water will not do the job. And never use a mixture containing ammonia, as it is present in urine and will encourage mistakes.” (22)
“Limit visitors. When possible, keep things quiet for the first few days… Now is not the time to rev her up with wild play. Now is the time to watch, help, encourage, redirect, and reward.” (28)
“Never use newspaper in a crate. They encourage a pup to use the crate as a bathroom.” (37)
Put the crate in a busy area. Prop the door open and ignore it. Allow the dog to explore it at will. Then try putting a comfy blanket in (to be removed when containment starts) and toss his toys into it and few treats as well. Leave a treat in plain sight near the entrance and ignore it again. Do not attempt to cajole him over, which will make the pup more hesitant. In the next day or so, feed him next to it. Then put the food bowl just inside the door. Then farther back once that is comfortable. During meals close the crate door. Stay right there and open it again before any fussing starts. After a day or so of this, put him in the crate for naps. If the dog barks and fusses, wait for quiet behavior and reward that. (38)
Confinement behind a gate: “don’t reward jumping or climbing. If, when you go to pick up your pup, he is leaping against the gate…stop. Pick him up only when he’s not touching the gate.” Or use a treat to lure him off. The idea is that he learns that being away from the gate earns freedom. (42)
Dog parks:
First time sit outside with the dog and watch the other dogs play. Observe the tone of the other dogs’ play. And watch your own dog: eager or overwhelmed?
Next walk your dog near the fence and still outside and continue to observe.
A frightened pup shouldn’t be put in. Continue walking along outside, but with distance.
Note: never throw down food or a coveted toy amid multiple dogs.
“A correction can range anywhere from a serious tone of voice to effective use of an appropriate training tool.” Corrections should be consistent. Don’t allow jumping one day and not another. “A well-placed correction arrives when the dog is thinking about doing something, not after she is deep into it.” “Withholding a treat or toy, putting away his food dish when he fails to sit properly on command at dinner, issuing a command that goes against his desires (“Leave it!”), and a leash correction are a few possibilities.” Do not attach emotion to correction, but be firm. Let the dog experience a result of her actions—a result that is neither overwhelming nor frightening. Corrections, when implemented properly should be infrequent.
“Watch the body language of the animals your dog is playing with. If your dog repeatedly attempts to put his paws on the other dog’s shoulders, lays his head over the other dog’s back, mounts another dog, or continuously blocks another dog’s path, he’s picking a fight…not ‘playing.’” It is time to intervene. (166)
Be aware that a dog sees signals that you’re leaving (getting your coat, grabbing your keys, putting on shoes, going to the door). Help him stay calm by teaching him that these things do not always mean departure. Pick up your keys whenever you pass them and put them back down. Go to the front door, then walk away. Pick up your coat or bag, put it down. Do this casually, just as a part of your day, and soon your dog will hardly notice. The calmer he is when you leave, the less likely he is to become seriously anxious after you leave.” (211)
Encourage your dog to use the crate for naps. Put a worn, unlaundered T-shirt or old sweatshirt in with her, as your smell will be comforting. Store toys in there. Give her all her treats in there. Any time you think of it, tell her to “go to bed” (or “kennel up” or “crate” or whatever), walk with her over to it, use a treat to guide her in, have her lie down, give her a treat, and praise her as she eats it.” In short, make the crate an inviting place. (213)
September 8, 2007
Checked this out from the library AGAIN after Baxter peed on my husband and ate the innersoles out of his gym shoes... sigh...
*****Great book for city dogs (and their owners). There were was a lot of information I hadn't stopped to consider about having a dog in the city - riding in cabs with your dog, street etiquette, etc.
*****Great book for city dogs (and their owners). There were was a lot of information I hadn't stopped to consider about having a dog in the city - riding in cabs with your dog, street etiquette, etc.
December 3, 2012
Woof Woof!!! A very helpful book for a new Metrodog owner. It was jammed packed with great training tips and lessons. At times witty, and other times a little redundant this book is sure to work with any type of Metrodog!!
February 22, 2008
So helpful! (Well we'll see once I put it into action that is)
September 11, 2010
For what it is, this is pretty good (but I wish they could have figured out something to do with a pronoun for the dog.) Definitely a reference and not a sit down and read kinda thing. (Whoops.)
October 4, 2012
Wonderfully comprehensive and addresses specific concerns that I haven't seen in other books on dog or puppy training.
Displaying 1 - 7 of 7 reviews