I've seen one of Marold's reviews on this book and he compared them
a. The Spiaggia Cookbook - Tony Mantuano
b. Chicago's Tru - Rick Tramonto
c. The Babbo Cookbook - Mario Batali
---
His opinion?
---
Spiaggia
The Intro also sings the usual hymns to fresh ingredients and authentic Italian dishes. I confess this kind of literary glad-handing never really impresses me except that it sets the stage for what the author is attempting to do with their book.
I find it very odd to find recipes in `The Spiaggia Cookbook' calling for Japanese Kobe beef, Russian sevruga caviar, and French foie gras. In contrast, Mario strictly follows his philosophy of giving us recipes exactly as done in his restaurant, with true Italian ingredients, and, ingredients which are practically local to New York such as fiddlehead ferns from New England and New Orleans shrimp.
The Spiaggia Cookbook makes much fuss over their Italian wines and local wines based on Italian grapes, yet the book gives us nothing on matching wines to the dishes.
As far as the actual technique in the two books, I personally prefer Mario's recipes as I simply thing they are more genuinely Italian. As neither I nor Ruth Reichl can seem to get a reservation at Babbo, I like the idea that I can reproduce their recipes, but as an amateur student of Italian cuisine, I like it more that I can get real Italian and Italian style cooking in Babbo while I do not trust that the Mantuanos are giving us the genuine article.
This is a good book, but there are better high-end Italian restaurant cookbooks to be had.
---
Tru
I would never recommend the `Tru' cookbook to anyone looking for a collection of handy recipes, as it is high end French technique with a huge dollop of Charlie Trotter/Thomas Keller innovation thrown in.
I rate Tramonto's communicating his techniques superior to Trotter.
---
Babbo
Mario gives us 300 pages of recipes, the Mantuanos give us 150 pages
I find it very odd to find recipes in `The Spiaggia Cookbook' calling for Japanese Kobe beef, Russian sevruga caviar, and French foie gras. In contrast, Mario strictly follows his philosophy of giving us recipes exactly as done in his restaurant, with true Italian ingredients, and, ingredients which are practically local to New York such as fiddlehead ferns from New England and New Orleans shrimp.
As far as the actual technique in the two books, I personally prefer Mario's recipes as I simply thing they are more genuinely Italian. As neither I nor Ruth Reichl can seem to get a reservation at Babbo, I like the idea that I can reproduce their recipes, but as an amateur student of Italian cuisine, I like it more that I can get real Italian and Italian style cooking in Babbo while I do not trust that the Mantuanos are giving us the genuine article.