My husband walked by the other night and asked what I was reading. “Oh, just a cookbook” I answered. “What for?” he said with raised eyebrows and added, “When was the last time you cooked something from a cookbook?” He had a point. “Well, this one’s really interesting. I’ve always wanted to know how to butcher a hog”. That sent him on his way shaking his head.
To tell the truth, my husband was right. I read lots of cooking magazines and cookbooks and yet make very little beyond the usual meals I’ve cooked the last forty-seven years. What he doesn’t realize is, cookbooks are read for more than the recipes. They are oral histories of lives lived, our connection to family through food and celebration and storytelling at their finest.
The Taste of Country Cooking by Edna Lewis, reissued with a foreword by Alice Waters, is a gem. This is one of those times that I wish I knew how it got on my reading list as I’d love to thank the source for the recommendation. Lesson learned.
Edna Lewis was born in 1916, the year my own dear father entered this world. This is probably where their commonality ended though their Christmas stockings held similar treats. The foreword penned by Alice Waters begins
”Miss Edna Regina Lewis was born in Virginia in 1916, in a bucolic, out-of-the-way settlement known as Freetown, which had been founded by her grandfather and other feed slaves after the emancipation of 1865.She enjoyed a childhood that could only be described as idyllic, in which the never-ending hard work of a farming and cooking both sustained an entertained an entire community. In 1976, with the publication of this lovely, indispensable classic of a cookbook, she brought her lost paradise of Freetown back to life. Thanks to this book, a new generation was introduced to the glories of an American tradition worthy of comparison to the most evolved cuisines on earth, a tradition of simplicity and purity and sheer deliciousness that is only possible when food tastes like what it is, from a particular place, at a particular point in time.”
Now, thirty years later, this anniversary edition may once again offer readers a glance into a time past. A time when food, was not packaged, shipped and purchased at a chain grocery store but was planted, grown, raised and cooked from scratch using recipes handed down from generation to generation. Not fast food, but meals that took hours to prepare on wood stoves by the women of the house with hard work pride and love; the original farm to table.
After an introduction that gives us a brief history of Edna and her grandfather’s farmland the cookbook is presented in four seasons, each with their harvests, feasts and stories.
It would be impossible to share all that delighted me and most likely you’d pick something different anyway. Here is a sample of each season.
Spring -
”Coffee or Java (as we called it)”
”The smell of coffee cooking was a reason for growing up, because children were never allowed to have It and nothing haunted the nostrils all the way out to the barn as did the aroma of boiling coffee. The decision about coffee was clear and definite and a cook’s ability to make good coffee was one of her highest accomplishments. Mother made real good coffee but some mornings my father would saddle the horse and ride more than a mile up the road to have his second cup with his cousin Sally, who made the best coffee ever.
This brings back memories of the first coffee I brewed for my husband and his uncle prior to our marriage. It’s a miracle he married me.
The description of Carmel Pie, with a history of more than one hundred and fifty years was a specialty of the Freetown Ladies and one that Edna calls haunting.
Pan-fried Shad was a favorite meal of Spring, as shad is only available around May in Virginia just as it is here in Connecticut. I prefer it sprinkled with a bit of pepper, topped with lemons, wrapped and foil and grilled. Somehow we missed Shad season this year and need to wait a whole year to enjoy it again.
Summer
”The busy season of harvesting and caning brought many delights at mealtime: deep-dish blackberry pie, rolypoly, summer apple dumplings, peach cobblers, and always pound cake to accompany the fruits or berries that would be left from canning."
A delight of summer would be turtle soup. My uncle used to make this and though I did like it I’ll stick to that pound cake recipe Edna provides.
Fall – Race Day Picnic
”Beautiful Montpelier, nestling in the Shenandoah Valley, surrounded by an oak forest, was the most perfect spot to have a great fall picnic lunch. Everyone would be dressed in the latest fashions to attend the races, even the handsome guest horses wearing the colorful silks of their stables.”
Winter - Christmas
”Around Christmastime the kitchens of Freetown would grow fragrant with the baking of cakes, fruit puddings, cookies, and candy. Exchanging gifts was not a custom at that time, but we did look forward to hanging our stockings from the mantel and finding them filled on Christmas morning with tasty “imported” nuts from Lahore’s, our favorite hard candies with the cinnamon-flavored red eye, and oranges who special Christmas aroma reached us at the top of the stairs.”
One last thought.
Edna and her sisters loved liver pudding. It is the one recipe I have no desire to try.