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The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur
The French bestseller The Diary of a Nose is the story behind the creation of a perfume, from the head perfumer at Hermès.
Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive endeavour. What is day to day life like for a perfume-maker? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a smell on the skin?
For one year, Jean-Claude Ellena kept a diary of his life as 'parfumeur exclusif' ('le nez' or 'the nose') for Hermès. Believing that creating a scent is like creating a work of art, and describing himself as a writer using 'olfactory colours', he explains how all of the five senses come into play when creating a perfume. He also reveals how inspiration can come from a market stall, a landscape, or even the movement of calligraphy, and concludes this charming, perceptive diary with recipes for natural fragrances, each made up of three synthetic ingredients, to create the illusion of smells like freesia, orange blossom, grapefruit, pear, chocolate, cashew and cotton candy.
This is the story of a quest to capture what is most elusive. Jean-Claude Ellena offer readers a rare insight into the secrets of his business, his art, and his life as one of the world's most important and admired perfumers.
Perfume creation is an exclusive and secretive endeavour. What is day to day life like for a perfume-maker? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a smell on the skin?
For one year, Jean-Claude Ellena kept a diary of his life as 'parfumeur exclusif' ('le nez' or 'the nose') for Hermès. Believing that creating a scent is like creating a work of art, and describing himself as a writer using 'olfactory colours', he explains how all of the five senses come into play when creating a perfume. He also reveals how inspiration can come from a market stall, a landscape, or even the movement of calligraphy, and concludes this charming, perceptive diary with recipes for natural fragrances, each made up of three synthetic ingredients, to create the illusion of smells like freesia, orange blossom, grapefruit, pear, chocolate, cashew and cotton candy.
This is the story of a quest to capture what is most elusive. Jean-Claude Ellena offer readers a rare insight into the secrets of his business, his art, and his life as one of the world's most important and admired perfumers.
192 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2009
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 56 reviews
November 29, 2012
I'm not sure what I expected from this little (and it is little, just 145 small pages and those only sketchily filled) book. Probably something closer to a laboratory journal, a history of the creation of a specific perfume, a detailed examination of the science of perfumery. What I got was something far more delicious. Perfume and perfumery are discussed at length, of course, this is a perfumer's diary, but there's little of the laboratory here. This is the collected thoughts - on nature, the city, music, food, fashion, scent and perfume - of a man whose passion also happens to be his job, with a little gentle philosophy thrown in. The overall feel is that of a favourite blog; bite sized pieces of a life; a Tumblr or Pinterest without pictures. No illustrations are needed, the word-pictures are enough. It's no wonder Jean-Claude Ellena talks of `writing' or `composing' perfumes; the pictures he composes have an enchanting, dreamy quality, in pastel colours, like distant music, watercolour landscapes, clean linen, pressed flowers, dried lavender. Beautiful and quietly extraordinary.
July 1, 2012
Jean-Claude Ellena is a "nose", one of a small, talented and highly-trained group of experts who create fine fragrances. In fact, he's one of the most highly respected "noses" in the business, having designed iconic fragrances such as First for Van Cleef and Arpels, as well as many of the famous perfumes of Hermes. In The Diary of a Nose, he tells us a little of his methods, explaining the painstaking process of developing a fragance from its initial inspiration, through the laborious testing and refining process to its eventual launch to the public.
This is a short book, written in a diary format, which supposedly follows Ellena over the course of a year. In fact, it felt more like a series of very short essays or newspaper columns, as most entries focused on a particular idea or theme rather than a conventional description of the day's events. The entries were a little too short for my liking, and I would have enjoyed more development of some of these ideas.
The book seems aimed at readers who have much more than a passing interest in the subject of perfume, as there are some chemical formulae as well as a lengthy appendix explaining how to create various scents using different chemicals and essences. If somebody were considering a career in perfumery I would recommend this book wholeheartedly, and even with no knowledge of the subject at all I still found myself intrigued at how chemicals that have never been anywhere near a fruit can be mixed together to smell like a pear or strawberry.
I spent much of the book trying to get a handle on Ellena's personality from the way he writes. He's quite scant on personal information and his writing is completely humourless. There's not the merest vestige of a joke or lightness of tone to be found anywhere, and I'm afraid I built up a rather unflattering picture of a haughty Frenchman who strikes fear into the hearts of his quaking assistants. I know this is meant to be a serious work, but I would have liked to have seen a little chink of humanity.
I did find myself wandering over to my dressing table and sniffing my own collection of perfumes while reading this; trying to pay attention to all the different elements and seeing if I could detect a particular flower, herb or fruit. The book will get you thinking about fragrance and what it means to us, how it is linked to memory and how it can provoke an emotional reaction.
While perfume junkies will certainly enjoy The Diary of a Nose, the deadly serious tone and lack of depth and detail will limit its appeal. I think I would have enjoyed a more conventional autobiography more, but I'm not sure Ellena would have been up to the task. As a perfumer I'm sure he's a genius, but as an author he's a little too dry for my taste.
This is a short book, written in a diary format, which supposedly follows Ellena over the course of a year. In fact, it felt more like a series of very short essays or newspaper columns, as most entries focused on a particular idea or theme rather than a conventional description of the day's events. The entries were a little too short for my liking, and I would have enjoyed more development of some of these ideas.
The book seems aimed at readers who have much more than a passing interest in the subject of perfume, as there are some chemical formulae as well as a lengthy appendix explaining how to create various scents using different chemicals and essences. If somebody were considering a career in perfumery I would recommend this book wholeheartedly, and even with no knowledge of the subject at all I still found myself intrigued at how chemicals that have never been anywhere near a fruit can be mixed together to smell like a pear or strawberry.
I spent much of the book trying to get a handle on Ellena's personality from the way he writes. He's quite scant on personal information and his writing is completely humourless. There's not the merest vestige of a joke or lightness of tone to be found anywhere, and I'm afraid I built up a rather unflattering picture of a haughty Frenchman who strikes fear into the hearts of his quaking assistants. I know this is meant to be a serious work, but I would have liked to have seen a little chink of humanity.
I did find myself wandering over to my dressing table and sniffing my own collection of perfumes while reading this; trying to pay attention to all the different elements and seeing if I could detect a particular flower, herb or fruit. The book will get you thinking about fragrance and what it means to us, how it is linked to memory and how it can provoke an emotional reaction.
While perfume junkies will certainly enjoy The Diary of a Nose, the deadly serious tone and lack of depth and detail will limit its appeal. I think I would have enjoyed a more conventional autobiography more, but I'm not sure Ellena would have been up to the task. As a perfumer I'm sure he's a genius, but as an author he's a little too dry for my taste.
August 7, 2020
Ce n’est pas le Journal d’un lecteur, mais celui d’un parfumeur que je vous propose de découvrir. C’est un métier rare, mais ô combien précieux puisque l’objectif vers lequel il doit tendre est de faire naître des émotions – et non pas de faire vendre, ça c’est le boulot du marketing. En ce sens, il se rapproche de l’art, mais le savoir-faire qu’il requiert l’oblige à rester profondément encré dans l’artisanat.
C’est tout cela que nous raconte Jean-Claude Ellena dans son journal. Le parfumeur exclusif de la maison Hermès nous fait découvrir son métier, son quotidien, ses inspirations, mais aussi ses doutes.
> Si j’ai une conscience aiguë de ce que je fais, je chéris le doute et l’entretiens : je ne connais rien de mieux pour créer.
Il aime aussi les mots et la lecture, il aime prendre le temps et ce court moment en sa compagnie est un vrai régal, une pause, une respiration. On aimerait l’accompagner lors de ses promenades à Cabris, sur les hauteurs de Grasse, où il a installé son atelier près de la source française du parfum et loin de l’agitation parisienne.
Il est difficile de saisir une odeur, de la capturer, de la conserver, de l’imaginer et encore moins de la retranscrire dans un journal. Une odeur est intrinsèquement insaisissable, fantasmée et c’est certainement cela qui la rend si attirante.
> Mettre un nom sur une odeur ne suffit pas pour connaître son caractère, ses limites, ses possibilités. Avec une volonté d’ignorant qui veut tout apprendre, tout contrôler, tout mesurer, j’ai rempli des carnets de notes sur chacune d’elles. […] Les odeurs ne sont pas des Lego que l’on imbrique pour construire un parfum, mais des objets immatériels que je cherche à rendre intelligibles.
Ce journal est le témoignage sensible d’un grand professionnel sur son métier et sa passion, le parfum.
> Quand l’odeur n’est plus liée au souvenir, qu’elle n’évoque plus les fleurs, les fruits, qu’elle est nue de tout sentiment, d’affect, elle devient alors matière du parfum.
> Quand je ne peux plus la décrire, qu’elle a une consistance, une profondeur, une largeur, une épaisseur, quand elle devient tactile, que la seule représentation que j’en ai est physique, je peux la mettre en forme et créer.
Également publié sur mon blog.
C’est tout cela que nous raconte Jean-Claude Ellena dans son journal. Le parfumeur exclusif de la maison Hermès nous fait découvrir son métier, son quotidien, ses inspirations, mais aussi ses doutes.
> Si j’ai une conscience aiguë de ce que je fais, je chéris le doute et l’entretiens : je ne connais rien de mieux pour créer.
Il aime aussi les mots et la lecture, il aime prendre le temps et ce court moment en sa compagnie est un vrai régal, une pause, une respiration. On aimerait l’accompagner lors de ses promenades à Cabris, sur les hauteurs de Grasse, où il a installé son atelier près de la source française du parfum et loin de l’agitation parisienne.
Il est difficile de saisir une odeur, de la capturer, de la conserver, de l’imaginer et encore moins de la retranscrire dans un journal. Une odeur est intrinsèquement insaisissable, fantasmée et c’est certainement cela qui la rend si attirante.
> Mettre un nom sur une odeur ne suffit pas pour connaître son caractère, ses limites, ses possibilités. Avec une volonté d’ignorant qui veut tout apprendre, tout contrôler, tout mesurer, j’ai rempli des carnets de notes sur chacune d’elles. […] Les odeurs ne sont pas des Lego que l’on imbrique pour construire un parfum, mais des objets immatériels que je cherche à rendre intelligibles.
Ce journal est le témoignage sensible d’un grand professionnel sur son métier et sa passion, le parfum.
> Quand l’odeur n’est plus liée au souvenir, qu’elle n’évoque plus les fleurs, les fruits, qu’elle est nue de tout sentiment, d’affect, elle devient alors matière du parfum.
> Quand je ne peux plus la décrire, qu’elle a une consistance, une profondeur, une largeur, une épaisseur, quand elle devient tactile, que la seule représentation que j’en ai est physique, je peux la mettre en forme et créer.
Également publié sur mon blog.
February 5, 2013
In which Jean-Claude Ellena sets out to prove he is a true Frenchman, i.e. an intellectual and an aesthete, crafting works of art rather than "the icy perfections of the mere stylist" (As Mr. Charles Rennie Mackintosh would say.) He quotes Fernand Braudel on capitalism (p.45) and Charles Trenet on music (p.67) and travels the globe and namedrops and drinks tea.
He is PoMo and BoBo all at once: "When I want to evoke a smell, I use signs that--taken separately-- have no connection with the thing I'm expressing: there has never been any tea in Bulgari's Eau parfumée au thé vert, mango in Un jardin sur le Nil by Hermès, or flint in Terre d'Hermès, yet the public 'feels' they are there." (p.3) Comparing himself to a sculptor, winemaker, or other craftsman, he says "Where the master of wine is concerned, man adds to nature; as a perfumer, I remove myself from nature to reduce it to the level of signs." (68)
This clustering of signs around and about perfume is partly because we can't evaluate or sense a perfume without smelling it--interacting with the thing-itself--so we need representations in words, images, symbols. Ellena remarks, seemingly without irony, "marketing people understand this perfectly. Seeing advertisements has never meant being able to smell the perfume; at the very best it elicits a desire to smell it: such are the strengths and limitations of the exercise." (24)
Actually one could say this about all luxury goods. They are about desire and possession, and representations of desire and possession. One of Ellena's own perfumes, First, sort of represents all that in scent-symbol form: "Gorged on analyses of market archetypes, I collected, borrowed and conflated every signal for femininity, wealth and power into this perfume." (66)
The best thing I got from this book, however, was an idea for an experience akin to the Feast of Words nights at SOMArts: an event in which "the master of ceremonies burned ten different fragrances, one after another. For each fragrance, the participants were invited to compose a poem." (127) Now, who will humor me and actually do this?
He is PoMo and BoBo all at once: "When I want to evoke a smell, I use signs that--taken separately-- have no connection with the thing I'm expressing: there has never been any tea in Bulgari's Eau parfumée au thé vert, mango in Un jardin sur le Nil by Hermès, or flint in Terre d'Hermès, yet the public 'feels' they are there." (p.3) Comparing himself to a sculptor, winemaker, or other craftsman, he says "Where the master of wine is concerned, man adds to nature; as a perfumer, I remove myself from nature to reduce it to the level of signs." (68)
This clustering of signs around and about perfume is partly because we can't evaluate or sense a perfume without smelling it--interacting with the thing-itself--so we need representations in words, images, symbols. Ellena remarks, seemingly without irony, "marketing people understand this perfectly. Seeing advertisements has never meant being able to smell the perfume; at the very best it elicits a desire to smell it: such are the strengths and limitations of the exercise." (24)
Actually one could say this about all luxury goods. They are about desire and possession, and representations of desire and possession. One of Ellena's own perfumes, First, sort of represents all that in scent-symbol form: "Gorged on analyses of market archetypes, I collected, borrowed and conflated every signal for femininity, wealth and power into this perfume." (66)
The best thing I got from this book, however, was an idea for an experience akin to the Feast of Words nights at SOMArts: an event in which "the master of ceremonies burned ten different fragrances, one after another. For each fragrance, the participants were invited to compose a poem." (127) Now, who will humor me and actually do this?
March 9, 2020
Gives a perspective of what it is like to work as a perfumer. I appreciated the openness of this book, despite perfumery being an art and it gave insight to the style of this work. Also enjoyed the parts where he talks about his travels, languages and cultures of the world. You feel like you are travelling with him through the different days. An awesome read and I finished it in only two days.
April 3, 2023
Ternyata lebih kayak buku harian perfumer (duh the title!). Tapi lumayan dapat banyak pengetahuan baru juga tentang parfum, misalnya:
- wangi bergamot (dan raw material lainnya) bisa berbeda tergantung waktu panennya
- buat bikin the famous terre d’hermes perlu waktu 8 bulan
- amber tidak sama dengan ambergris (asli tadinya w kira sama)
- wangi bergamot (dan raw material lainnya) bisa berbeda tergantung waktu panennya
- buat bikin the famous terre d’hermes perlu waktu 8 bulan
- amber tidak sama dengan ambergris (asli tadinya w kira sama)
October 8, 2014
In my life I have, to date, fallen in love at different times with a mere two lovely eau-de-parfums. One, launched in 1977, was inspired by the Orient. The second is a floral/fresh first marketed 1978. Since then I’ve never felt any necessity whatsoever to wear any other. So I was intrigued when this book, ”The Diary of a Nose” turned up in a charity (thrift) shop. I simply had to buy it (and at such a reasonable price, too)..
Having read other reviews of this book on Goodreads, I opted to ignore the book’s diary-structure, and instead treat it simply as a series of episodes in the life of the master perfumier Jean-Claude Ellena, who likes Italo Calvino’s definition of a classic book: “A classic is a book that has never finished saying what it has to say” (at https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/sear...). It’s hardly difficult to spot the applicability to perfume. Very arty.
J-C E appends names, not numbers to his formulations in progress. Yet his mind works differently when, later on in his book, he outlines (giving little away) how his memory internalises and classifies primary scents. I’m different. I’ve always found it easier to use alphanumeric codes to clarify relationships between formulations at a glance. He also uses ’moleskin’ notebooks; which, having trouble visualising pegged-out talc-rubbed drying pelts of moles (of the family Talpidae,) I take to mean the products of the American company Moleskine
That as the character of a wine should communicate the character and personality of its maker, J-C E claims so should a perfume. Neither, I conjectured, would such a tactic risk harming the marketability of its ‘creator’! Alchemists have recognised for centuries the significant value that can be added by product positioning supplemented by lashings of imagination. Later on he recounts a very enjoyable dinner party in Gembloux, near Lièrge; where the guests are given noteboooks and pencils to record their impressions of what they will be eating. He refuses to play along with this; claiming that he cannot simultaneously “live intensely; and make notes about my feelings at the same time.” (p.96). I cheered for him at that point, before carrying on to read his interesting description of the menu; which anyone who regularly entertains will find both thoughtful and helpful.
The odd proof-reader’s error greatly amused me. On page 73, J-C E writes, “I have just spotted sweat peas in every colour.” I was immediately reminded of the highly successful BBC sit-com ‘Allo Allo, (1982-1992), set in France during WW2, where the abominable French-speaking gendarme is really a British undercover officer (Crabtree), in permanent disguise.
The interacting sum of parts creates and defines a perfume, whether bought and worn to attract or to disguise. Likewise it is the sum of parts that defines this book, whether bought to read or to give as a present together with a phial of eau de parfum. I certainly enjoyed these pages all the more whilst wearing perfume, rather than unperfumed straight after a bath.
Having read other reviews of this book on Goodreads, I opted to ignore the book’s diary-structure, and instead treat it simply as a series of episodes in the life of the master perfumier Jean-Claude Ellena, who likes Italo Calvino’s definition of a classic book: “A classic is a book that has never finished saying what it has to say” (at https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/sear...). It’s hardly difficult to spot the applicability to perfume. Very arty.
J-C E appends names, not numbers to his formulations in progress. Yet his mind works differently when, later on in his book, he outlines (giving little away) how his memory internalises and classifies primary scents. I’m different. I’ve always found it easier to use alphanumeric codes to clarify relationships between formulations at a glance. He also uses ’moleskin’ notebooks; which, having trouble visualising pegged-out talc-rubbed drying pelts of moles (of the family Talpidae,) I take to mean the products of the American company Moleskine
That as the character of a wine should communicate the character and personality of its maker, J-C E claims so should a perfume. Neither, I conjectured, would such a tactic risk harming the marketability of its ‘creator’! Alchemists have recognised for centuries the significant value that can be added by product positioning supplemented by lashings of imagination. Later on he recounts a very enjoyable dinner party in Gembloux, near Lièrge; where the guests are given noteboooks and pencils to record their impressions of what they will be eating. He refuses to play along with this; claiming that he cannot simultaneously “live intensely; and make notes about my feelings at the same time.” (p.96). I cheered for him at that point, before carrying on to read his interesting description of the menu; which anyone who regularly entertains will find both thoughtful and helpful.
The odd proof-reader’s error greatly amused me. On page 73, J-C E writes, “I have just spotted sweat peas in every colour.” I was immediately reminded of the highly successful BBC sit-com ‘Allo Allo, (1982-1992), set in France during WW2, where the abominable French-speaking gendarme is really a British undercover officer (Crabtree), in permanent disguise.
The interacting sum of parts creates and defines a perfume, whether bought and worn to attract or to disguise. Likewise it is the sum of parts that defines this book, whether bought to read or to give as a present together with a phial of eau de parfum. I certainly enjoyed these pages all the more whilst wearing perfume, rather than unperfumed straight after a bath.
October 17, 2025
“When smell is no longer linked to memory, when it no longer evokes flowers or fruits, when it is stripped of all feeling and affect, then it becomes material for a perfume.
When I can no longer describe it, when it has consistency, depth, breadth and density, when it becomes tactile, when the only representation I have of it is physical, then I can bring it to life and create.”
This man could have been a poet in another life.
When I can no longer describe it, when it has consistency, depth, breadth and density, when it becomes tactile, when the only representation I have of it is physical, then I can bring it to life and create.”
This man could have been a poet in another life.
July 20, 2017
"The way in which we read and perceive a book is not exactly the same today as it was yesterday, and the same can be said of perfume." A fascinating (if occasionally overly pretentious) read. As it is a diary, it can be choppy and is best read in several sittings.
July 10, 2024
A lovely short compendium of thoughts, musings, information, and a peek into the mind of a perfumer who is always open to smells.
June 1, 2025
Je continue mon exploration du monde du parfum et c’est toujours aussi intéressant, j’ai beaucoup aimé le partage des réflexions autour de la création de parfums, de la vie d’un parfumeur et l’abrégé d’odeurs où Jean-Claude Ellena nous partage quelques “recettes”
December 18, 2013
Jean-Claude (França, 1947) é um perfumista muito, mas muito famoso – mas não é um pop star. Trabalha há quase uma década para a mesma casa, a Hermès, que não é lá uma marca faiscante comparativamente a outras que detêm linhas de perfumes próprias, como Carolina Herrera, Calvin Klein, Diesel ou mesmo a Chanel. Filho de perfumista, nascido em Grasse, já trabalhou pra grandes casas de fragrâncias, como Givaudan e Symrise, criando perfumes para Bvlgari, Balenciaga, Giorgio Armani, L´Artisan Parfumeur, Van Cleef & Arpels e Yves Saint Laurent. Mas seus maiores sucessos vieram mesmo a partir de 2004-05 quando criou a série Hermessence e “ Un Jardin” para a Hermès.
De lá pra cá já publicou quatro livros, colaborou em outros dois, sendo este, Diário de um Perfumista (2009-11), o primeiro traduzido no Brasil. É que seu nariz é muito literário. O mais apaixonante em Ellena é seu amor pela literatura. Acostumados que estamos, desde Septimus Piesse, a encarar a perfumaria como uma composição musical, vem ele e abre o livro com a epígrafe “O odor é uma palavra, o perfume é a literatura”. Pronto, você precisa de mais nada pra ler o livro.
Mas se quiser outros argumentos, ei-los, do mais óbvio ao menos: se você brinca de perfumaria, vai amar algumas fórmulas que ele menciona no final do livro; se você é aromaterapeuta, vai gostar de saber sobre algumas (poucas) essências naturais usadas na perfumaria na França; se você também acha a Anvisa um porre, vai encontrar pelo menos duas boas e fundamentadas opiniões de por que ela e o IFRA são uns chatos de galocha; se você queria ter nascido na França, vai ficar com mais vontade ainda – Jean-Claude tem tudo que um francês deve ter: senso politico, consciência da fugacidade da fama, propensão a filosofar em cima do banal e amor pelo sofisticado-simples; se você gosta de literatura, vai achar incrível as reflexões que ele faz em cima de seu ofício, o de um escritor de símbolos fragrantes.
Depois da leitura, só lhe restará uma atitude sensata a tomar: ir até uma boa perfumaria e cheirar as criações de Ellena. Leve mais braços: mesmo que borrife nos pulsos, nas dobras internas dos cotovelos e nos bíceps, faltará espaço pra cheirar tanta beleza.
Voici les meilleures parties.
Leia o restante da resenha com as citações em: http://asmelhorespartes.blogspot.com....
De lá pra cá já publicou quatro livros, colaborou em outros dois, sendo este, Diário de um Perfumista (2009-11), o primeiro traduzido no Brasil. É que seu nariz é muito literário. O mais apaixonante em Ellena é seu amor pela literatura. Acostumados que estamos, desde Septimus Piesse, a encarar a perfumaria como uma composição musical, vem ele e abre o livro com a epígrafe “O odor é uma palavra, o perfume é a literatura”. Pronto, você precisa de mais nada pra ler o livro.
Mas se quiser outros argumentos, ei-los, do mais óbvio ao menos: se você brinca de perfumaria, vai amar algumas fórmulas que ele menciona no final do livro; se você é aromaterapeuta, vai gostar de saber sobre algumas (poucas) essências naturais usadas na perfumaria na França; se você também acha a Anvisa um porre, vai encontrar pelo menos duas boas e fundamentadas opiniões de por que ela e o IFRA são uns chatos de galocha; se você queria ter nascido na França, vai ficar com mais vontade ainda – Jean-Claude tem tudo que um francês deve ter: senso politico, consciência da fugacidade da fama, propensão a filosofar em cima do banal e amor pelo sofisticado-simples; se você gosta de literatura, vai achar incrível as reflexões que ele faz em cima de seu ofício, o de um escritor de símbolos fragrantes.
Depois da leitura, só lhe restará uma atitude sensata a tomar: ir até uma boa perfumaria e cheirar as criações de Ellena. Leve mais braços: mesmo que borrife nos pulsos, nas dobras internas dos cotovelos e nos bíceps, faltará espaço pra cheirar tanta beleza.
Voici les meilleures parties.
Leia o restante da resenha com as citações em: http://asmelhorespartes.blogspot.com....
August 1, 2014
As I mentioned in my review of his previous book, Ellena is genius perfumer and is really a celebrity in the perfume world. Though I didn't like his previous book and found it tedious, I was still very excited to read this, since it was entries from his diary over a year's time.
Overall, I was very pleased with this book. It managed to keep the spirit of the first book but was what I really wanted from the first book without all the boring details. I do have a few criticisms. It's a short book, and it really only about a third of the year in entries, not the whole year. I don't necessarily mind that it's short, but it bothered me some in conjunction with my next problem with it: Ellena tends to ramble a lot, and some entries are either not related to perfumery or are only loosely related. So when you notice that the entries were selective, you start to ask why didn't other days replace these entries? Now it could be the fault of the editor, or maybe Ellena himself didn't write entries every day, but I just found some entries to be pointless. Also, I think that Ellena tries too hard at being philosophical. It works on occasion, but most of the time it's too forced. Also, there's not really a thread to tie in the whole book, or a poignant ending, so reading this all at once (like I did) probably isn't the best way to read it. Perhaps it's best if savored little by little.
But mostly I really enjoyed the book. I found that I really liked hearing about his experience as a perfumer and his day-to-day routine. I loved how he explained some of the secrets to his creations, and I loved how he has a section at the end of the book listing ingredients that can make common accords (even though it would still take trial and error to figure out the proportions). I really enjoyed the entries about his camaraderie with Edmond Roudnitska (another iconic perfumer from a generation prior). At times I found this book informative, beautiful, poetic, and philosophical. But mostly I just like this book because it tickles my nosiness about the life of an uber-popular perfumer that I really admire. For those who love fragrances--particularly Ellena's--you will want this book.
Overall, I was very pleased with this book. It managed to keep the spirit of the first book but was what I really wanted from the first book without all the boring details. I do have a few criticisms. It's a short book, and it really only about a third of the year in entries, not the whole year. I don't necessarily mind that it's short, but it bothered me some in conjunction with my next problem with it: Ellena tends to ramble a lot, and some entries are either not related to perfumery or are only loosely related. So when you notice that the entries were selective, you start to ask why didn't other days replace these entries? Now it could be the fault of the editor, or maybe Ellena himself didn't write entries every day, but I just found some entries to be pointless. Also, I think that Ellena tries too hard at being philosophical. It works on occasion, but most of the time it's too forced. Also, there's not really a thread to tie in the whole book, or a poignant ending, so reading this all at once (like I did) probably isn't the best way to read it. Perhaps it's best if savored little by little.
But mostly I really enjoyed the book. I found that I really liked hearing about his experience as a perfumer and his day-to-day routine. I loved how he explained some of the secrets to his creations, and I loved how he has a section at the end of the book listing ingredients that can make common accords (even though it would still take trial and error to figure out the proportions). I really enjoyed the entries about his camaraderie with Edmond Roudnitska (another iconic perfumer from a generation prior). At times I found this book informative, beautiful, poetic, and philosophical. But mostly I just like this book because it tickles my nosiness about the life of an uber-popular perfumer that I really admire. For those who love fragrances--particularly Ellena's--you will want this book.
December 3, 2020
As a voracious reader, I found myself drawn to books on perfumery, starting with this 175-page book written by the iconic Jean Claude Ellena, 'parfumeur exclusif' or 'le nez' for Hermès. I expected this book to help me unravel the why's and how's of the perfume creation process - a topic I find myself contemplating on, time and again.
What I got was abstract prose that wove stories through the memories and experiences of the perfumer himself. The book narrates Ellena's thoughts on what inspires him and glimpses into the disjointed nature of the creative process. Jean-Claude unpacks his process of creation through diary-style entries - meandering past the confluence of fashion, culture, travel, food and language, without elaborating on the interconnectedness of the trails of inspiration. I must admit that in spite of being a sucker of the abstract style of writing, this book has left me wanting to read a less eloquent and more personable account of a perfumer.
That aside, this is an easy book - one that may take you further down the rabbit hole of our olfactive senses! I find it to be a great introduction for newbies like myself, who want to find their way in this space, but, struggle to find their bearings within the expansive landscape that is the art and alchemy of perfumery.
What I got was abstract prose that wove stories through the memories and experiences of the perfumer himself. The book narrates Ellena's thoughts on what inspires him and glimpses into the disjointed nature of the creative process. Jean-Claude unpacks his process of creation through diary-style entries - meandering past the confluence of fashion, culture, travel, food and language, without elaborating on the interconnectedness of the trails of inspiration. I must admit that in spite of being a sucker of the abstract style of writing, this book has left me wanting to read a less eloquent and more personable account of a perfumer.
That aside, this is an easy book - one that may take you further down the rabbit hole of our olfactive senses! I find it to be a great introduction for newbies like myself, who want to find their way in this space, but, struggle to find their bearings within the expansive landscape that is the art and alchemy of perfumery.
July 4, 2018
Good. A bit more philosophical than I expected. There's formulas at the end of the book, for those who are interested. Picked this up, mostly, because I am fascinated by the Hermès "Un Jardin..." series (I own all of them). An interesting look at the life of a parfumeur. I guess, in that regard, the book does exactly as the title implies. Still tho, feels like there is something missing... (Not sure what yet tho). I guess, maybe, I wanted to know more about the actual process and thinking behind each fragrance (and there's a bit of that). But then, also, there's a ton of meetings with people, traveling to different countries and towns and just, musings about daily life. Ellena is French after all... Not bad. Not great. Just, good.
January 24, 2015
Pleasant enough for what it is, although pretty insubstantial. This is a short series of diary entries from a perfumier who works for Hermes, in which he talks about various influences--quotidian and developmental--over his work. He gives an interesting account of the development of discernment over a lifetime; I think this will be very interesting to anyone working in an artistic field other than perfume, as he presents essentially what was to me an account of taste in a field whose very difference defamiliarized familiar accounts of how one "reads" an artwork. Still, pretty nugatory for the most part, although a quick and satisfying read.
June 30, 2018
I recently became engaged with texts on perfume, after finding 'The Emperor of Scent' by Chandler Burr, at a trains station that had wild hyacinths blooming in the parking lot. I searched out like minded books on scent, intrigued at how little I'd considered this sense of mine, and was hoping to get a deeper understanding of scent from this book.
This book is, simply, a journal by a composer of perfumes. Jean-Claude is certainly an intriguing figure, but he seems so engrossed in his own scent-wanderings, that it's hard to bridge the gap if you're also not a super-smeller. He's not known as a writer - although it's clear from his thoughts, he's an artist. But as a non-writer, there is little sense or true cohesion or finality to this book. It does, indeed, read like a perfume would - it wafts past enticing scents of fashion, culture, food and greatness, without settling specifically on a thought. It lingers, but only slightly so. I think perfume-obsessives will love this, but the man does not extend his thoughts to those who do not understand it. He simply invites you into his mind-wanderings, which are at times interesting, but collectively, nothing to write home about. A simple, easy book that may intrigue you further down the rabbit hole of scent, but has no true lasting effect on me otherwise.
This book is, simply, a journal by a composer of perfumes. Jean-Claude is certainly an intriguing figure, but he seems so engrossed in his own scent-wanderings, that it's hard to bridge the gap if you're also not a super-smeller. He's not known as a writer - although it's clear from his thoughts, he's an artist. But as a non-writer, there is little sense or true cohesion or finality to this book. It does, indeed, read like a perfume would - it wafts past enticing scents of fashion, culture, food and greatness, without settling specifically on a thought. It lingers, but only slightly so. I think perfume-obsessives will love this, but the man does not extend his thoughts to those who do not understand it. He simply invites you into his mind-wanderings, which are at times interesting, but collectively, nothing to write home about. A simple, easy book that may intrigue you further down the rabbit hole of scent, but has no true lasting effect on me otherwise.
April 16, 2026
Great book. Really made me appreciate perfums and the craft of making perfumes.
After reading this Book, I bought alot materials(not cheap) to recognize the diffrent scents in a perfume. If you start reading forums and start smelling the scents, you will recognize shitty perfumes and start hating mainstream perfumes, you will go heavy in to niche perfumes:
Now you are in your Elite Perfume Connaisseur phase, where you reject main stream perfume. You despise people who wear Dior Sauvage.
You will buy niche perfumes who smell of shit and you will say you like it(only because you had to pay 300 euros for a 50ml bottle).
Civette Synth has become your favorite scent, normies just don't understand the depth of this scent.
Sometimes you wear it neat.
After a few months you realise you never got any compliments on your perfumes, even the ones Jeremy fragrance said would get you compliments and hot ladies.
You will keep buying niche perfume, but you will also start appreciating Dior Sauvage(Coco Chanel for the ladies) for being a masterpiece it is.
Anyway read the book, even if you're not interessed in perfume. Scent has special powers. One day you will smell something, and think about the teacher you were in love with or the girl who sat next to you in the plain.
After reading this Book, I bought alot materials(not cheap) to recognize the diffrent scents in a perfume. If you start reading forums and start smelling the scents, you will recognize shitty perfumes and start hating mainstream perfumes, you will go heavy in to niche perfumes:
Now you are in your Elite Perfume Connaisseur phase, where you reject main stream perfume. You despise people who wear Dior Sauvage.
You will buy niche perfumes who smell of shit and you will say you like it(only because you had to pay 300 euros for a 50ml bottle).
Civette Synth has become your favorite scent, normies just don't understand the depth of this scent.
Sometimes you wear it neat.
After a few months you realise you never got any compliments on your perfumes, even the ones Jeremy fragrance said would get you compliments and hot ladies.
You will keep buying niche perfume, but you will also start appreciating Dior Sauvage(Coco Chanel for the ladies) for being a masterpiece it is.
Anyway read the book, even if you're not interessed in perfume. Scent has special powers. One day you will smell something, and think about the teacher you were in love with or the girl who sat next to you in the plain.
July 28, 2022
This book is liberating, inspiring and beautiful; especially for those who practice art in any field. Jean-Claude shared his perspective in how he see things, small things and situations in his daily life and his interpret into his craft. The book is in diary writing style, each pages is a new day, a new insight. The writing style is easy to read and follow. He occasionally share about the process of making perfume, most of the time are his aesthetic eyes (and nose) looking at life. The book has no picture but a lot of words to describe smells to let us play with our sense by imagination.
Personally (as a person who also practicing art), Jean inspired me a lot through his open-minded view of life and give me a easier look into how we create meanings. It forced me to look at things in different ways in order to embrace the fun in it. Like the meaning of perfection, individuality, learning style or even oil painting.
Personally (as a person who also practicing art), Jean inspired me a lot through his open-minded view of life and give me a easier look into how we create meanings. It forced me to look at things in different ways in order to embrace the fun in it. Like the meaning of perfection, individuality, learning style or even oil painting.
December 6, 2025
Ehhh.
I get it. Ellena is a storied perfumer and an oh-so-Gallic artiste du plus haut niveau.
Were there passages from which I learned about perfumery? About being a nose and what it takes? Yes.
Were there passages about days in the life of Ellena that explained his approach to his art as a high art akin to great writing or painting yada yada? And about the many, many speaking engagements he so generously books, toned disingenuously as aw shucks I don't know bout that but hey they wanted me to talk about it, so...? Yes.
Were many of these passages egocentrically tiresome? Yes; yes they were.
Though I don't exactly consider the book not worth reading, I battled through it. I'm glad I didn't get a hard copy and would not refer to it again. I did want to know about nosedom and perfumery, generally, but didn't get as much as I was looking for. For those of you who are JCE stans/groupies, perhaps it was written for you - have at it!
I get it. Ellena is a storied perfumer and an oh-so-Gallic artiste du plus haut niveau.
Were there passages from which I learned about perfumery? About being a nose and what it takes? Yes.
Were there passages about days in the life of Ellena that explained his approach to his art as a high art akin to great writing or painting yada yada? And about the many, many speaking engagements he so generously books, toned disingenuously as aw shucks I don't know bout that but hey they wanted me to talk about it, so...? Yes.
Were many of these passages egocentrically tiresome? Yes; yes they were.
Though I don't exactly consider the book not worth reading, I battled through it. I'm glad I didn't get a hard copy and would not refer to it again. I did want to know about nosedom and perfumery, generally, but didn't get as much as I was looking for. For those of you who are JCE stans/groupies, perhaps it was written for you - have at it!
August 22, 2018
Jean-Claude is a professional perfumer, but he is almost as much a poet. He writes beautifully about creativity, craftsmanship, curiosity, and of course topics related to perfumery like the nature-synthetic debate, quality and market trends. This book reads like a diary, each entry a snippet into his though process. Fans of Hermes or of perfumery as an art will appreciate this.
May 12, 2024
Ellena shares some very elegant perspectives on the art of perfumery in this book, and his passion makes for a very compelling read. All-in-all this was an alluring, easy-to-digest book that most creatives can appreciate, but lovers, or those who are curious, about the art of perfumery will especially love it.
October 31, 2024
a master at work
As we walk though this diary we get a rare glimpse into the world of perfume but that’s is the most skin deep description you could provide within this book you get the insights of a true artist and craftsman and you get the sensibilities of a perfumer and enjoyer of life
As we walk though this diary we get a rare glimpse into the world of perfume but that’s is the most skin deep description you could provide within this book you get the insights of a true artist and craftsman and you get the sensibilities of a perfumer and enjoyer of life
February 23, 2017
Fast, easy, and fragrant read for perfume lovers. More than a diary of perfume concoctions: rather, random bits and pieces of thoughts and opinions from a man who is lucky and talented enough to be living his passion. Enjoyed!
February 9, 2019
A must read for students and admirers of perfumery. J.C.E is one of the most creative and sought after perfumers in the world. His perfumes are pieces of art. In this book he lets us into is everyday life, and the way he sees the world.
December 20, 2023
This would have been my dream life ; a life of a nose is the return to our psyche, to our heritage , to our childhood and our ancestors’ childhood . My dream would have been to become a nose … I remember so distinctly this excursion to Grasse and the feeling of belonging
April 14, 2025
I feel like this would be terrific in French. The sounds, cadences. It’s poetic and now I need to study French in Duolingo. I mainly read it at bedtime and found it soothing. A small, sweet book. Not at all ordinary. If you’re expecting a narrative or scenes, perhaps think again.
July 12, 2025
It's the diary of a creative, those tend to be both abstract and philosophical while deeply in the weeds of their craft. I'm glad I read these perfume books in the order I did. I don't think I could have made the connections I did without laying the groundwork as I had.
January 8, 2017
Un livre empreint de la poésie naturelle de l'auteur, qui se décrit non pas comme un musicien mais comme un "écrivain d'odeurs".
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