Jump to ratings and reviews
Rate this book

The Vast Unknown: America's First Ascent of Everest

Rate this book
By the author of the New York Times bestselling Everest: Mountain Without Mercy , this chronicle of the iconic first American expedition to Mt. Everest in May 1963 – published to coincide with the climb's 50th anniversary­ – combines riveting adventure, a perceptive analysis of its dark and terrifying historical context, and revelations about a secret mission that followed. 
 
In the midst of the Cold War, against the backdrop of the Bay of Pigs fiasco, the space race with the Soviet Union, and the quagmire of the Vietnam War, a band of iconoclastic, independent-minded American mountaineers set off for Mt. Everest, aiming to restore America's confidence and optimism.  Their objective is to reach the summit while conducting scientific research, but which route will they take?  Might the Chinese, in a public relations coup, have reached the top ahead of them?  And what about another American team, led by the grandson of a President, that nearly bagged the peak in a bootleg attempt a year earlier?
 
The Vast Unknown is, on one level, a harrowing, character-driven account of the climb itself and its legendary team of alternately inspiring, troubled, and tragic climbers who suffered injuries, a near mutiny, and death on the mountain.  It is also an examination of the profound sway the expedition had over the American consciousness and sense of identity during a time when the country was floundering.  And it is an investigation of the expedition's little-known outcome: the selection of a team to plant a CIA surveillance device on the Himalayan peak of Nanda Devi, to spy into China where Defense Intelligence learned that nuclear missile testing was underway.

320 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2013

15 people are currently reading
764 people want to read

About the author

Broughton Coburn

26 books11 followers

Ratings & Reviews

What do you think?
Rate this book

Friends & Following

Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!

Community Reviews

5 stars
59 (29%)
4 stars
90 (45%)
3 stars
37 (18%)
2 stars
9 (4%)
1 star
2 (1%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews
Profile Image for Ursula.
276 reviews38 followers
May 9, 2013
I love books about mountaineering. I'm not entirely sure why, since I have no interest in ever climbing a mountain myself. But I find it fascinating to read about. The United States' first ascent of Everest took place 10 years after the Sir Edmund Hillary had conquered the mountain, so it would seem like the expedition wouldn't matter a whole lot. However, it took place during the Cold War, and just a few years after President Kennedy had vowed to get an American man on the moon. The US was keen to find a way to prove that they were better, faster, more capable than the Chinese and the Russians - and neither of them had made it to Everest's summit yet.

It was that desire that drove two disparate groups - the government and mountain climbers - to set their sights on the same goal. Mountaineering was a sport on the fringes, and the people who did it reflected that in their personalities and life paths. Some conflict arose from the fact that there were two differing camps regarding the ascent - one group who wanted to get to the summit by any means possible, meaning going the established route up the South Col, and one group who wanted to blaze a new trail up the West Ridge. And as with essentially every expedition on the mountain, lives would be claimed.

The writing was pretty clear and serviceable, though without any real flair. There is a cast of characters in the front of the book, in case you have difficulty keeping track of the various people involved and their roles. (Personally, I just keep going and eventually the people sort themselves out.) Once the ascent is completed, the book keeps going to talk about an additional climb that took place to try to put some surveillance equipment in place to spy on China. Interesting, but more as a footnote than an extra chapter or two. The same goes for tying up the loose ends of what happened to the various expedition members. So, I wish it had been a little more tightly focused, but overall it's a good entry into the genre.

Recommended for: armchair mountaineers, people who can appreciate a good "you think you have it hard, I had to walk to school 5 miles in the snow, uphill both ways" story, people who think maybe it should require more than a fat wallet to climb Everest.

Quote: "It is not the summit that matters, ... but the fight for the summit; not the victory, but the game itself."
Profile Image for Julie.
1,480 reviews133 followers
November 4, 2013
I have a soft spot for mountaineering books, especially those about Everest, probably because I will never climb a mountain and I can live vicariously through the narrative without risking life and limb. I hadn't realized a) that Americans were the third nation to summit the tallest mountain in the world (behind England and Switzerland) and b) that they did not accomplish this feat until 1963. Mountaineering was dramatically different than when Mallory made his first (unsuccessful, fatal) summit attempt in the 20's and even when Hillary finally made it to the top a decade earlier. And yet, climbing the mountain in 1963 was also a vastly different experience than it would be today. There were not set routes, fixed lines, or existing camps. The mountain was not a commodity for tourists. Everest was still a hostile and remote destination.

There was also political significance to this climb. Red China was a threat, and the Chinese claimed to have reached the summit before the American expedition, leaving bust of Chairman Mao atop the mountain as proof. The Americans had an ulterior motive for ascending the tallest peak in the world: determining whether this would be a good vantage point to spy on the Chinese and their missile program. They also wanted to disprove the Communist claim of having successfully reached the summit. Alas, the Chairman Mao bust was conspicuously absent from the mountain's peak.

This was a great story of triumph and tragedy. The only difficulty I came across was keeping all of the key players straight. With 21 (white male) expedition members, not to mention all of the Sherpas and porters, I struggled to distinctly identify all of the characters. Despite this, there were so many other fun morsels of information. Two climbers reached the summit via a new route on the West Ridge. The space race was in full swing and an astronaut from the Mercury program was in orbit and passed the climbers overhead that May.

These men formed a lifelong bond and understood what it was to push for a goal as a team. This was not about individual success. The mentality was about utilizing every individual's distinct skill set to triumph on behalf of America. It was inspiring to read about these pioneers and heroes in one of the most dangerous and punishing environments in the world.

I received a complimentary copy of this book via the Amazon Vine program.
Profile Image for Andrew.
379 reviews3 followers
April 28, 2013
The British reached the peak of Everest in 1953, so why read about the first American attempt ten years later? Because this story is a mixture of teamwork, tragedy, perseverance, and success, and is very well told by the author, Broughton Coburn. If you understand the desire to explore nature, you will enjoy this book.

The comparison of the American ascent's importance to the space race in the introduction seemed to be a bit of a stretch. (But to be fair, I wasn't around then.) The story picks up as naturalized citizen Norman Dyhrenfurth, a member of the 1592 Swiss Everest team, resolved to gather an American team and inspire the country with their success.

It was interesting to read about their teamwork and planning, especially compared to the twenty-first century individualistic mindset we live in today. Twenty-one expedition members and nine-hundred plus Sherpas and porters worked for months so that a handful of people could reach the summit. Many were content in their support roles, believing that sending anyone to the summit was a sufficient goal. The team didn't work perfectly, but they got the job done. In the end, six people reached the summit, doubling the number of successful climbers in one season (from six to twelve).

I received an uncorrected proof copy from the publisher in a Goodreads First Reads giveaway. There were some awkward sentences and minor issues that should be caught by the editors and removed prior to final publication.
Profile Image for Deb (Readerbuzz) Nance.
6,462 reviews336 followers
May 21, 2015
In 1963, America was dazed: the Cold War was in full swing and America was falling behind. What to do to restore American pride? Why not try to beat Russia to Mt. Everest?

Thus the push was on to send Americans to the top of Mt. Everest.

What a trek! Rock. Ice. Snow. Cold. Lack of oxygen. Endless walking. The pressure of time.

Harrowing, yes, but, honestly, isn’t this the best way to travel to Mt. Everest? Through the pages of a great story?
Profile Image for Deborah aka Reading Mom.
329 reviews35 followers
March 1, 2013
As an enthusiastic fan of what a friend and I call "frozen people" books, those having to do with exploration, mountaineering, and other endeavours that involve snow and ice, I was thrilled to win a First Reads copy of The Vast Unknown through GoodReads. I read the book slowly and carefully, realizing that this was something truly special. Mr.Coburn sets up the expedition in a fascinating way. He introduces his reader to the history of mountaineering in this country, sets up the backgrounds of all the main characters who eventually make up the 21 member team of the first American expedition of Everest (1963), takes us with them as they make the incredible journey, and brings us up to the present day with the 6 remaining members of the team. At the same time, he explores the happenings of the day, the political conflicts among China, India, Tibet, Nepal, Russia and America, and many other historically significant "tidbits". This was the beginning of the "space race" too, and while astronaut Gordon Cooper was beholding the Himalaya from the Mercury space capsule, climbers Hornbein and Unsoeld were nearer to him than any other humans on earth. Did he see those tiny specks of life as he passed?

4 decades ago, "team" meant everything to this group of men. Everyone involved was considered an important part of the eventual success. There were climbers, doctors, a psychologist, a glaciologist, a meteorologist, radio operators, Sherpas, porters, unbelievable amounts of equipment, film-makers, people on assignment from National Geographic, an historian and scribe,a physiologist, and more. The mere thought of the logistics involved in the 1960s to pack and transport 900 loads of gear and supplies from Seattle, to Calcutta, to Kathmandu and then carry them on an 18 day walk to base camp was incredible! In this expedition, there were not going to be one or two heroes, everyone was going to be acknowledged for working together, even those who did hard and thankless jobs. The younger Sherpas especially were drawn to the American team's sense of organization, efficiency, and use of technology--concepts they'd not been exposed to with previous expeditions.

Upon completion of the expedition, the members were invited to the White House to receive National Geographic Society's Hubbard Medal. This honor had until this time been given only to single individuals. Team leader, Norman Dyhrenfurth, insisted that ALL receive the medals as a team--including 5 of the Sherpas, or the medals would not be accepted.

This account differs so much from those I've read about later expeditions--those in the '90s and forward. The purpose and meaning of Himalayan climbing has unfortunately changed dramatically from teams of professionals working together for a common goal to so-called team members having so much difficulty getting along that they couldn't even sit together at the same table for a celebration dinner. Near disasters and even deaths have occurred simply because, in this day it seems, the needs, goals, and spirit of competition among individuals outweigh the common good of the team. The spirit of excellence, teamwork, and common goals seem to have disappeared from Everest leaving in it's wake a coldness that far surpasses that of the world's highest peak--and with it much of man's humanity and innocence.
Profile Image for Amerynth.
831 reviews26 followers
May 17, 2013
In the interest of full disclosure, I received a copy of this book through LibraryThings' Early Reviewer program.

Broughton Coburn's "The Vast Unknown: America's First Asecent of Everest" is a solid, factual account of the first successful American expedition to the summit of the world's highest peak. Not only did the team reach the top, they also, on a much-debated side mission, forced a new route up the west ridge.

Coburn's account of the expedition has an almost newspaper-like quality to it in a "just the facts ma'am" kind of way. It almost comes across as the sort of outline you'd find in a textbook. This is both good and bad. I'm not sure the book really adds anything of great value to the story.... which is marvelously told by expedition member Tom Hornbein in "Everest: The West Ridge." Corburn's account lacks any analysis or new information that makes the book must-read expedition fodder.

Also odd were the few chapters about America's attempt to monitor China through a spy device planted on a mountain. While interesting (and perhaps, if it could be expanded, worthy of a book on its own) these chapters didn't fit in with the overall book. Nor did the strange attempt at the beginning to relate mountaineering and the space race.
Profile Image for Kasey Lawson.
275 reviews1 follower
June 7, 2023
“The reason that solitude seems so beneficial is that moving off into this remote mountain range you are able to simplify your life. You reduce stimuli until finally you are faced only with your own ego, and then it is a relatively simple step to jettison that awareness of self, fading out under the overpowering awe of this greatest of mountain ranges, and then you are not in the picture. What is left? The answer is ananda, or bliss, the peace that surpasses all understanding and cannot be reduced to words.” -Willi Unsoeld
Profile Image for Emily Schnabl.
116 reviews7 followers
October 6, 2017
It took a couple of tries to get into this book, but on the second try I was hooked. Was a little hard to keep track of all the names so I had to flip back and forth to refresh my memory.

I've read most of the well-known books about recent climbs on Everest, and it was almost haunting to read about an expedition that didn't involve paying clients and took weeks of trekking just to reach Base Camp.

1 review
Read
October 21, 2021
Very interesting book written about Western Mountaineers. The triumph, hardship and simplicity of the Sherpa life have been well illustrated. The book gives some content on the ecological and cultural importance of the mountain the indigenous culture thriving in the Himalayas. I would recommend to read for those who have passion and curiosity to know about mountain climbing hardship and the simplicity of the indigenous people living in the Himalaya from their generations.
48 reviews9 followers
November 15, 2017
It was a little slow getting going, but learning about each of the climbers and their backgrounds turned out to be really interesting. These men are so cool, I would have loved to see Everest as they did.
120 reviews
February 20, 2022
Good info, I’d hoped for more of an experience than a technical description.
Profile Image for Doug Cornelius.
Author 2 books32 followers
December 17, 2014

Go America! Climb the tallest mountain!


But the Brits and Swiss have already made the summit?


Yeah, but we beat the Soviets to the top!


According to Broughton Coburn in his latest book, The Vast Unknown: America's First Ascent of Everest , that was the main motivation for the American expedition to Mount Everest in 1963. And if not the main motivation for the climbers, it was a motivation for many of the expedition's sponsors.

I used to dabble in mountaineering so I understand the motivation for climbing and facing the danger. In a complicated world, it's a simple goal. Go as high as you can, the summit if possible, and get back down safely.

By all pragmatic standards climbing mountains is "useless." That, indeed, is one of its glories: that it needs no end or justification beyond itself - like a sunset, a symphony, or like falling love.
- James Ramsey Ullman in Americans on Everest


Ullman already wrote a classic account of the massive American team assault on Mount Everest in 1963. In addition, Thomas Hornbein wrote about his assault on the mountain's West Ridge during that same expedition in Everest: The West Ridge .

I enjoy a good book on mountaineering. The Vast Unknown  was not going to tell an untold story. So it would have to stand on its own quality of writing and illumination into the climbers.

When the publisher offered me a copy to review, I was sure it be worth reading. It was just a question of whether it was a good adventure story or a great one. It was merely good. It is a good celebration of the 50th anniversary of the expedition.

The climbers come across flat and it's difficult to distinguish one from the other as they attack the mountain with an army of Sherpas and tons of supplies.  The storytelling does not create a heightened sense of danger that the great adventure books create. As a result the book falls a bit flat.
Profile Image for Christie.
71 reviews11 followers
December 13, 2013
It's no secret that I love books about Everest. While in some ways the stories are all fairly similar, this one tells of America's first assent. Back when climbing Everest was still very new, and a lot more challenging and complicated than it has become today.

America's first expedition team, in 1963, was made up of a young, free-spirited, independent group of climbers, many of whom worked as guides in the Tetons. The climb was a mix of their own hopes of dreams of summiting as well as political and international strategy. In many way the goal of summiting mimicked the space race, which was happening during this time period.

It was not an easy climb. A life was lost. An attempt to summit by a new route was unsuccessful. But their journey made an impact on American climbing and on the lives of each man involved. Coburn does a great job following up with the climbers, showing us the path each of their lives took in the years following their Everest climb.

Thank you GoodReads for a signed copy!
65 reviews
January 29, 2014
I started this because many of the climbers had Wyoming roots and I'm a WY native. I was mostly pleasantly surprised at (despite the unimaginative title)the quality of the writing. The description of the ascent of the previously unclimbed West Ridge was particularly well done. I also liked the bit at the end about the CIA's attempt to place electronic listening devices in the Himalayas to spy on China's nuclear tests.

However, I didn't think the depiction of all the principals as stalwarts in every way was very likely. The author is (rightly) highly critical of the current state of climbing on Everest, but doesn't once mention the fact that this 1963 expedition left all sorts of trash and equipment on the mtn. for others to haul out. Finally, the narrative gave a lot of attention to the psychological data that was being collected on the expedition members, but there's no mention of the results - were they ever compiled or published?
Profile Image for Cherei.
557 reviews67 followers
July 21, 2013
If you know of anyone who is a climber.. or if you ARE a climber.. then this is one novel that you do NOT want to miss! It's a must read! Everyone dreams of climbing Mount Everest.. but, most have no idea what is truly needed to make it to the top.. and BACK!

My husband used to climb when he was younger. It was fascinating to read a book that is about people that he knew in his youth. Climbers are a breed unto themselves. Most dream of being as daring and as adventurous as the people they've read about. Most don't have the courage to actually physically train and accomplish such a dream.

The ultimate.. how far can you go book! Very inspirational!
Profile Image for Vickie.
164 reviews4 followers
June 26, 2013
Fascinating read! Even though I am agoraphobic and get dizzy standing on a step stool, this book made me want to take up mountaineering! Not because he made light of the grueling aspects of mountain climbing, but because of his beautiful descriptions of the mountain and its aspects.

Coburn made the climbers seem like people you knew and I wanted to be there to warm them up at the end of the climb.

Besides learning quite a bit about climbing, I also learned a tidbit about Vibrams!

This was a free Goodreads book;
Profile Image for Patricia Bergman.
457 reviews39 followers
October 31, 2013
I received this book through Goodreads giveaway.

Why would a man torture his mind and body to such an extent attempting to climb the world's highest mountain? Broughton Coburn successfully answers this question by diving into the psyche of the team who attempted this feat in 1963. The book is fascinating and illustrative as to the wide array of professions and motivations driving this group of interesting characters. Additionaly, the historical events occurring in 1963 add to the flavor of the story. Highly recommended.
75 reviews7 followers
June 25, 2013
I really enjoyed reading this book. It was well organized and well written. Coburn did a great job of making the large cast of participants human and memorable. The descriptions of the actual summiting up Everest were suspenseful. Highly readable and an interesting contrast to descriptions of later Everest climbs like Krakauer's "Into Thin Air".

I received this book as a Goodreads Giveaway.
Profile Image for Brittany.
1,195 reviews28 followers
July 16, 2014
I received this book through the First Reads giveaway program on Goodreads.

I am TERRIFIED of heights so the closest I will come to mountain climbing is this book!

This was very well-told with the descriptions seeming factual (I'm not a climber so I have to guess!) and not at all overdone. I liked reading about the lives of the climbers before and after the climb.
406 reviews4 followers
September 3, 2014
Great book! Brings you back to days when countries were interested improving themselves through personal feats like the space race and climbing the tallest mountains rather than who has the most guns. America's first summiting of Everest is an amazing story,both of the individuals who accomplished it and the routes taken. Great tale of will, determination and survival!
Profile Image for Wendy.
525 reviews5 followers
May 2, 2015
I really wanted to like this book. I got two chapters in and couldn't take it - the prose is so purpleI'm surprised it wasn't printed in colored ink. I've read a handful of Everest narratives, but I think it was the gung ho space-age yay America tone of this that put me off.
15 reviews1 follower
July 10, 2013
I really enjoyed the combination of classic alpine adventure with the the historical, geopolitical, cultural, and spiritual context of the time. Yet, despite this background context, the author made the story feel fresh and alive, Very well done!
Profile Image for Stormy.
562 reviews3 followers
July 1, 2013
This is a well-researched account of the US Everest expedition. It has a lot of details about the climber guides from the Tetons who were part of the first ascent (and survival of) the West Ridge of Everest. The route is so difficult, not many have followed in their path.
27 reviews2 followers
October 19, 2015
Amazing

What a great adventure! I'm awed by the courage, humor and brilliance of these fascinating climbers and the feats they undertook and completed on Everest. Amazing men. Amazing story.
Profile Image for Susan.
1,404 reviews10 followers
August 23, 2016
I really struggled with this novel. It is deep into the history of mountain climbing in the United States, and was more than I expected or really want to know. I am sure that an avid climber would love this book. Just not my cup of tea!
12 reviews
May 20, 2013
I like how the author provided some interesting back stories - espionage, politics and the basics of a climb, right down to what one wears wears when climbing in high altitudes. Good read.
451 reviews6 followers
July 2, 2013
Fascinating story of the first American expedition to summit Everest, in 1963. Covers the history of the main members of the team, as well as what happened to them afterwards.
Profile Image for Dennis.
30 reviews4 followers
August 31, 2013
Very good book on USA first summit of Everest - this will be on Adam Fox's desk on Tuesday for his perusal.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 35 reviews

Can't find what you're looking for?

Get help and learn more about the design.