An Art Lover's Guide to Florence

by Judith Testa

No city but Florence contains such an intense concentration of art produced in such a short span of time. The sheer number and proximity of works of painting, sculpture, and architecture in Florence can be so overwhelming that Florentine hospitals treat hundreds of visitors each year for symptoms brought on by trying to see them all, an illness famously identified with the French author Stendhal.

While most guidebooks offer only brief descriptions of a large number of works, with little discussion of the historical background, Judith Testa gives a fresh perspective on the rich and brilliant art of the Florentine Renaissance in An Art Lover’s Guide to Florence. Concentrating on a number of the greatest works, by such masters as Botticelli and Michelangelo, Testa explains each piece in terms of what it meant to the people who produced it and for whom they made it, deftly treating the complex interplay of politics, sex, and religion that were involved in the creation of those works. With Testa as a guide, armchair travelers and tourists alike will delight in the fascinating world of Florentine art and history.

Genres: Art, Italy, Nonfiction, Travel, History, Renaissance, Italian Literature

306 pages, Paperback

First published September 15, 2012

Reviews

[Hon Lady Selene · Rating 3 out of 5]

Dramatic Italian interference in my Slavic reading year - I forgive, I forgive - but only because it's Italy, I would forgive nothing else for deviating this particular year.

Decent enough read, but it only takes one through the highlights of Florence, I was a bit taken aback as there is no mention of Santa Croce (housing the grave of Machiavelli, sculptures by Spinazzi and frescos by Donatello, Giotto and Vasari) or any little detail about Galleria dell’Accademia - it's not like David lives there alone.

So no, not really "an Art lover's guide", but nevertheless a more helpful read than the horrible touristy stuff out there, especially the chapter on The Tornabuoni Chapel in Santa Maria Novella - that's probably my favourite fresco.

Quindi, in the words of my favourite Fiorentino: "Oh servile Italy, breeding ground of misery, ship without a pilot in a mighty tempest" - prepare thyself for the embodiment of Dante's Crag, Peak, Promotory and Peninsula is returning in Autumn!

[Lorena Williams · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved learning about Florence with an art lover’s eye. Hope to visit all of these masterpieces and appreciate them as much as they deserve.

[Marks54 · Rating 4 out of 5]

At some time in the future I will be able to travel again and when I do, I will want to visit Italy, in particular Florence and Tuscany. This poses a problem for a first time tourist - there is way too much great art to see for whatever time will be allotted for a visit. How does one visit Florence for a week or a few days without just taking a running glance at highlights as one passes by?

Judith Testa is a former history professor who has written a book about how to sort out what to visit and what to pass on when first going to Florence. It is a fine book, although I will need to wait to see if it is as good as I think it is.

The book has 17 chapters, which include an introductory historical survey and an ending epilog. Most of the other chapters focus on a particular site or location, for which the backstory is presented and the immediate points of interest are detailed. For the chapters on the two broad museums covered - the Uffizi and the Bargello, the plan is different. A series of vignettes of the must-see pictures and sculpture is presented, each with its own story. This makes these chapters books within books.

The content here is far superior to the stuff of most guide books and she does a good job of tying particular masterpieces into the broader historical settings. This is good “homework” to read before a trip and I have found that a little advance preparation makes the visits more worthwhile. The book is an easy read and Testa presents real content, along with further readings if one is interested. There is a lot of material, however, and she does a good job of sorting out the wheat from the chaff in suggesting what sites are worth seeing.

[Castles · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very good book, well written, and a great companion for a trip to Florence. gladly, I was in Florence a while ago and enjoyed most of the artworks described here even before reading this book, but it’s always interesting to read about them again. This book deserves more attention on the shelve of renaissance, art, and Italy.

[Corri Van de Stege · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve more or less skimmed through the whole of this book and made copious notes in preparation for my visit to Florence in May. I’ve now downloaded the kindle version as well as a reference for when I’m there. I think it’s brilliant, providing a historical background to some of the artworks you may want to see.

[JCJBergman · Rating 4 out of 5]

The ultimate book on how the history and culture of Italy (specifically Florence) informed some of the greatest works of art known to humankind. I like how the author goes into detail for each piece, though I have given it 4 stars rather than 5 because the book would be profoundly enhanced if the pictures were in colour.

When I return to Florence, I will most certainly bring this with me so I can appreciate it to the fullest.

[Tanya Marlow · Rating 5 out of 5]

Judith Testa should get a commission from the Florence Tourist Board, because anyone reading this book is going to want to turn straight to the computer and book the first flight out to Florence. The idea is that she analyses some of the great art works of the Renaissance, putting them in their political, religious, and (important but much-neglected) sexual context. She doesn’t go through every art piece, so it’s not like a catalogue, more like a knowledgeable and enthusiastic tour guide to accompany you through each museum and gallery, and the book is ordered by the various locations, so that if you were just going to visit the Duomo and the Uffizi gallery, you could happily read those chapters as a stand-alone. What makes this book so exceptional is her story-telling ability – I was plunged into the Renaissance world of war, betrayal, sexual liberation and sexual repression, family loyalty and ambition, and each story was fascinating. Because of her, I discovered the Brancacci chapel, the little-known and little-visited birthplace of Renaissance art, with an astonishing fresco by the little-known artist, Masaccio.

For me, the best part was her analysis of the paintings themselves, and some of those were so well-written and so moving I found myself with tears in my eyes at the end of the chapters. If you are planning a visit to Florence, get this book a few weeks before, and read it in preparation for your visit: it will make all the difference between going round the Uffizi, getting dizzy from the many portraits of random unknowns, and not knowing the significance of the details, to going round the Uffizi and seeing the paintings as though you’re visiting an old friend, and tracing the stories in the details of the paintings. It’s like having an enthusiastic, knowledgeable, story-telling guide going round every museum with you – and that makes it an absolute bargain. Highly recommended.

[Karen · Rating 4 out of 5]

I an hoping to visit Italy (Rome, Florence, Tuscany and Venice) in April 2018 for my 30th wedding anniversary, so I'm reading a lot of travel guides, commentaries, histories and even some fiction in preparation for the trip.

I am most excited to view some of the masterpieces of art there. But since my own personal knowledge has been mainly limited to Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and Modernist painting, Testa's expertise as a scholar of the Renaissance was much appreciated.

Testa encourages the traveler NOT to try to see everything but to focus mainly on a few works in a dozen or so venues that she recommends. Preceding in roughly chronological order, her descriptions also include some of the major historical, political and cultural events for context. Oh, those manipulative Medicis!

I particularly liked her sections on sculpture, which does not personally move me and which I know little about. I hope I will have a greater understanding and appreciation of Michelangelo's David (and other artist's works) during our upcoming visit.

I also really enjoyed her inclusion of various scholarly theories and opinions about the "meaning" of particular art works and how the religious, political and even sexual aspects often blend together. I've admired Boticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera at least since grade school, but now I'll be able to decipher the symbolism of the paintings.

There are other artistic treasures in Florence that I want to see which Testa dismisses or doesn't even mention -- the costumes and jewelry at the Pitti Palace, Carvaggio's Sacrifice of Isaac in the Uffizi and the Museo del Novecento (Modernist 20th century art), to name a few. Nonetheless, her book is a sweeping and insightful review of the development of art in the 1400-1600s.

If you love Italian Renaissance art -- even if you'll never see it "face to face" -- this should make for a very enjoyable read.

[Patrick Santino · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very good book covering the Quattrocento beauty of Florentine art, the birth place of the Renaissance. From the Duomo to the David & their Medici (& associate) financial backers is all covered in here. It was an intriguing read, I learned quite a lot about the Medici who despite being the most famous informal mafia of all time were also probably the greatest philanthropists of all time. It was to the point that Cosimo de Medici Pater Patriae & the ‘theory of Magnificence’ is IMO the best case in history for strictly Capitalism & the benefit of extremely wealthy people, despite the all the vanity & political prestige associated with their donations. Another interesting thing is despite obvious flaws, from top to bottom this was a sincerely Catholic culture including many of the top elites like Comiso & I think even Lorenzo the Magnificent, & of course Michelangelo etc; this particularly comes out in the Fra Angelico & the Innocenti orphanage chapters. Once again too, another theme of the book (& Italy/Europe in general) these artists & patrons were thinking far, far beyond their own lifetimes, they were creating beautiful art for the glory & honor of their family, Florence, & even God that could be enjoyed by many for centuries after them. Once again, 21st Century America should take notes.

[Adrienne · Rating 5 out of 5]

An informative and entertaining book that dives deep into the stories behind the major works of art you’ll see all over Florence. It’s not like a guidebook, and it’s not like a textbook. It’s like having a conversation with an art history expert (which Testa legitimately is), where she tells you all the juicy details you probably didn’t learn in art history class. And she puts the art in its historical context in a way that makes it all come together. I felt a little bit like an expert myself when I was wandering around Florence totally understanding the major works of art there.

[Kathryn · Rating 3 out of 5]

This has elements of a handy guide but all the history provided would benefit from a timeline, family tree, and other reference points for the many Medici. At times the author would describe art as mediocre (the mediocre paintings in the Accademia de Belle Arte) without saying anything else. Was it the artists, the execution, what made the work mediocre?

The book did help focus what I want to see when I am in Florence. I will use this on my upcoming trip but not extensively.

[Susanne · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great overview of some of the most noteworthy Florentine works of art of the Renaissance. The book also provides historical, social and religious contexts of this place and time, which aid in grasping the meaning(s) of these works. I will bring this book to Florence to see some of its marvels (again)!

[Jade Laurel · Rating 4 out of 5]

Handy guide for visiting Florence. It contained lots of interesting back stories about various art pieces. It was light enough that I could fit it in my backpack with ease and take it with me to museums.

[Joe Fusaro · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved the way this sorted out popular and hidden gems. Some works are explored in more depth than others without any particular reason towards the end of the book, but still a worthwhile read preparing for a trip to Florence.

[Beverly · Rating 4 out of 5]

What would have given this outstanding book 5 stars would have been color illustrations.....Still a must read guide if you are travelling to Florence....

[Jennifer · Rating 3 out of 5]

I liked reading this prior to my trip to Italy so I know more about the art we will see. I wish it had color pictures but it was easy to read and had black and white photos.

[Austin · Rating 5 out of 5]

This excellent book helps provide the historical context and explain the significance for some of the most notable works of art in Florence. It's also an enjoyable read.

[Mary Stagg · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a very readable and clear guide to the best art bits in Florence.

[Patrick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Marked it up and will be taking with me to Florence and using it as a guide. So well written, with great details and stories. Also plenty of theories and histories. Highly recommend.

[Ray Kraus · Rating 5 out of 5]

Nicely detailed and wonderful (I hope) preparation for our upcoming trip to Florence.

[Boris · Rating 3 out of 5]

Valuable for its artistic insights -- the article on Hugo van der goes altarpiece in Uffizi is a case in point -- but needlessly generous in terms of the space given to the dealings of the Medici clan.

[Raymond · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a guide to what to see in Florence, what it means and why it matters, this is a five star book. To get the most out of it you should read the relevant chapters either right before or right after you visit the artwork in question. If you intend to sit at home and read a comprehensive and thorough work on the Italian Renaissance you should probably look elsewhere, as this is quite short and to the point. What makes it stand out from older works is that it doesn't shy away from analyzing the overtly sexual implications of some of these works, which have tended to be intentionally passed over or misinterpreted. Donatello's David f.ex. - the first nude sculpture produced since antiquity - is impossible to understand without also understanding Donatello's sexual orientations and Florence's homosexual (to use an anachronistic term) culture of the time, yet art historians have bent over backwards to avoid this interpretation.

[Sammi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Actually so interesting reading about this history and context before visiting these places - love love

[Terri · Rating 5 out of 5]

For many, the word “art” is archetypically associated with the astonishingly beautiful Italian city of Florence. And for an author to voluntarily take on the monumental task (yes, the pun is intended) of attempting to not only discern what is to be deemed, but then to describe in delightful detail, what are Florence’s greatest artworks, is a bit daunting to say the least. However, Judith Testa has dedicated her life to the study of great works of art and she not only chose to assume responsibility for such a job, but she succeeds brilliantly.

Testa’s approach to this seemingly insurmountable assignment belies the fact that she is a Professor Emeritus of Art History. The book is so full of historical and analytical background on each piece she has chosen to examine, that it nearly bursts its cover. Yet all the information she gifts to the reader, feels exactly that – a gift - and doesn’t once come near reading like a text book.

In order to set the stage on which the art she discusses is to be displayed, Testa’s first chapter is an informative brief of Renaissance Florence. She skillfully untangles the powerful Medici family history and lays it out for us in such a way that we appreciate how their genealogical lineage is interwoven with the tapestry that is Florence. Her “warts and all” approach to explaining the Medici and the time they lived in, truly helps the reader put the art of the Renaissance in perspective.

After we are introduced to the city framed in time, Testa starts us out at the Cathedral and its “Cupolone,” the gigantic dome of the Cathedral and iconic symbol of Florence. We then follow her to the Baptistery, the Brancacci Chapel, Piazza della Signoria, Orsanmichele and others. She of course visits the Uffizi, the Medici palace, and even dedicates one chapter entirely to one of the most famous works in the world, Michaelangelo’s “David.” Over the course of her chapters we revisit, or are introduced to, the “crème de la crème” of Florentine artistic offerings. With the skill of a jeweler examining a rare gem, her version of “cut, clarity, and color” is to reveal each work through the lens of “politics, sex, and religion.” The result is a broad based and fascinating understanding of some of history’s greatest works of art.

An Art Lover’s Guide To Florence is not a “guidebook” per se, though I certainly would want to have a copy in my hand the next time I’m wandering those picturesque streets along the Arno. There is a helpful map at the beginning, but her objective is not to have the reader follow some predetermined route and throw a bit of trivia at them when they get there. The reader is free to explore the city as they wish, armed with a deep understanding of what they are looking at. Whether you are planning a visit to Florence, or are just interested in the cache of treasures that city holds, this book will entice. With her witty prose, insightful perspectives and uncanny ability to “make learning fun,” Testa leaves the reader feeling as if they’ve gotten a private tour of Florence, by someone privy to secrets not often shared with the public.


http://www.amazon.com/An-Art-Lovers-G...


An Art Lover’s Guide To Florence
Judith Testa
Northern Illinois University Press
269 pages
ISBN 978-0-87580-680-8 (paperback)
ISBN 978-1-60909-063-0 (e-book)

[Helen Wiant · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book inspired us to visit pretty much all the venues listed therein during our visit to Florence. Each chapter gave very interesting background about the personnas and circumstances surrounding the creation of the artwork or structure and significantly enhanced our experiences in Florence. I particularly liked the chapters on Bruneleschi's Dome and the Uffizzi. We even were able to impress the guide whom we used on our last day to tour "Michelangelo's Florence" when we told her that we saw the Sassetti Chapel - one of Judith Testa's recommended sites.
This book is not really one that you can easily read and follow once you are at the particular venue. We read it before arriving in Florence and reviewed each item of interest the night before we would visit it.
Very well written and interesting book, highly recommended.

[Helen Wiant · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book inspired us to visit pretty much all the venues listed therein during our visit to Florence. Each chapter gave very interesting background about the personnas and circumstances surrounding the creation of the artwork or structure and significantly enhanced our experiences in Florence. I particularly liked the chapters on Bruneleschi's Dome and the Uffizzi. We even were able to impress the guide whom we used on our last day to tour "Michelangelo's Florence" when we told her that we saw the Sassetti Chapel - one of Judith Testa's recommended sites.
This book is not really one that you can easily read and follow once you are at the particular venue. We read it before arriving in Florence and reviewed each item of interest the night before we would visit it.
Very well written and interesting book, highly recommended.

[Matt · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is a more in-depth and scholarly, if still introductory, overview of artworks found in Florence, as compared to a typical guidebook. Testa chooses the most prominent works to analyze, those that have drawn in visitors for centuries. Readers can get a good sense of the historical climate and artists' motivations that resulted in every work described herein. The biggest critique of this book is the confusing and ambling history of the Medici family, and Florence's political status, as the generations progressed. But the author can hardly help this meandering history, and often it is needed to provide context for a work. All in all, this is still a solid piece of scholarship for anyone travelling to Florence or wanting to understand its reputation as an artistic powerhouse of the Renaissance.

[Otto Hahaa · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was just what I needed! Some background to the history of Florence and to the most important art pieces there. Of course, you can argue should some works be left off or some others added to the book. But the book does not claim to be the objective truth, and that is fine. For example, you might still want to visit Palazzo Pitti, even if none of the works there have the "must-see status" according to Judith Testa.

You might complain that there is some repetition, but on the other hand, that makes it easier to use the book as a hand book, because you do not have to read it from the cover to cover (but you will).

This is not a travel guide, so there is no information when a certain gallery is open etc. But that is okay, because for that there are other books.

[University of Chicago Magazine]

Judith Testa, AM’67, PhD’83
Author

From our pages (Nov–Dec/12): "Drawing on decades as a Northern Illinois University art history professor and a lifelong affinity for Italian culture, Judith Testa offers an informative introduction to Florentine art and the lives of celebrated artists. Rather than an exhaustive listing of the city’s art, Testa’s essay collection focuses on her favorites. As she notes, Florentine hospitals treat hundreds of visitors each year for symptoms brought on by trying to see [it] all, an illness first described by the French author Stendhal, and today known as ‘Stendhal’s Syndrome.'"

[Tim · Rating 3 out of 5]

Art book should have art.

The approach of this book is to concentrate on the most important works of art and architecture in Florence, and to discuss them in context of history, which usually involves the Medici. This is fairly successful, but the author included only tiny black and white photos if the art she is discussing. It is hard to follow her argument when you have to leave the text and go to google to find a full size color image of the art so you can understand her description. She could at least have provided links to photos of the art.
Note: this refers to the Kindle edition.