Radio Congo – Ben Rawlence
“Before this trip I knew more about how people in Congo were dying than how they were living.” Author Ben Rawlence.
I had to read this book because of its title – radio would have been enough on its own, so would Congo – put them together and the temptation is too great. My expectations however were low – I had not heard of Ben Rawlence nor did I know anything about his work until stumbling across a review of the book on the African Arguments website. I like to fool myself into believing that if there is something happening in the radio world in the Congo I’ll know about it.
What I did not know, until reading Radio Congo, is that Ben Rawlence is an enormous talent in the travel-writing genre. He cleverly uses visits to isolated community radio stations scattered across the eastern Democratic Republic of Congo to tie together a collection of adventures that ultimately lead him to Manono, an old tin-mining town off the beaten track in Katanga province.
Ben enters the DRC from Rwanda, crossing into North Kivu where he befriends the owner of a radio station in Rutshuru – Jean-Baptiste, who tells him that “Radio is the spider’s web that is holding this country together.” Ben’s route to Manono, made possible by the kindness of strangers, a recurring theme throughout the book, features radio stations as that act as the post office, community centre, health service, early warning system and friend in places which rarely and sometimes never see a car or a newspaper. They help to hold together a country and a population that, contrary to outside observations, is not trying to balkanize itself into several smaller states but is simply, in the absence of an effective central government, making a plan to survive on a daily basis.
This is a book about real people – the same kind of people most South Africans bump into on an almost daily basis often without realising it – everyday run-of-the-mill Congolese. Chances are, if you’ve been guided into a parking spot at the local shopping mall, from Cape Town to Polokwane, the man in the shiny yellow vest is from Lubumbashi, Kinshasa, Goma or one of the villages along the shores of Lake Tanganyika in which Rawlence spent time in while trying to figure out how next to continue his journey.
As is the case with the parking guards, everybody has a story – and the story often involves murder and rape which are so widespread that virtually no one is unaffected thus condemning these horrific tales to the category of “unremarkable;” this is why we rarely hear about them.
The author’s day job is at Human Rights Watch, and it’s obvious this other aspect of his life has honed his ability to see more than just the trees in the forest – while not a political book, Radio Congo offers sharp insight into the origin of some of the DRC’s gravest problems, including the ongoing support of rebel groups by neighbouring Rwanda and Uganda as well as an understanding of generally misunderstood trials and tribulations of the Banyamulenge – DRC Tutsi originally of Rwandan origin who live in Eastern parts of the country.
Apart from almost making the reader able to feel the mud splatter up from the back tyre of the motorbike on which he hitches a ride, Ben provides the reader with some hard truths about expat views and contributions to societies in turmoil – a South African businessman operating in Goma cuts to the chase with “the real problem is that war is good for business.” The tough reality is that it is not only blood diamonds that fuel conflict in this part of the world – virtually everything does, from charcoal to cheese. Even the United Nations mega peacekeeping mission and the non-governmental organisations that operate in its orbit tend to be big contributors to the problem simply by injecting vast sums of money for accommodation, food and fuel into economies dominated by warlords – Zambian economist Dambisa Moyo has much more to say on this topic in Dead Aid.
Getting to Manono is not easy, but it is the journey that is the story – the route Ben Rawlence takes is difficult, and not without its unsavoury characters, however, I am pleased to note that he emphasises – “…as ever, Congo is more hospitable than hostile.”
When he eventually does reach Manono, a model Belgian mining town in the 1950s, he encounters children in rags, in the mud, extracting tin by hand before it is collected by Lebanese merchants who find ways to smuggle it out of the country on dodgy Russian aircraft; the locals have front-row seats watching their wealth disappear into the sky and, without witnesses, there’s virtually nobody to fight their corner.
If, unlike me, Radio Congo doesn’t excite you as a title, but you do like the travel writing of the Eric Newbys and William Dalrymples of the world, then chances are you will enjoy the words of Ben Rawlence.
Radio Congo is published by OneWorld.
David L. Smith is a Johannesburg-based media specialist who was attracted to the title of this book because he set up Radio Okapi – a national radio service in the Democratic Republic of Congo.