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The Guaymas Chronicles: La Mandadera

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This memoir of a young gringo's assimilation into the exotic street life of a bustling port on Mexico's Sea of Cortez is an eye-opening account of the area's working-class life. After months of anthropological field work in late 1960s Ecuador, David Stuart returns to Guaymas with broken bones and a broken heart, finding comfort in the cafés and nightspots along the waterfront. There he reveals his failings to people whose lingua franca is the simple wisdom of listening and understanding. The loyal barmen and taxi drivers adopt him into their tight-knit circle, helping him ride out the devastation of betrayal by a woman who is carrying another man's child. Dubbed El Güero ("Whitey") on the street, Stuart drifts into la movida , the Mexican world of hustlers, politicians, police officials, businessmen, and street urchins. In a 1970 Mexico where a $500 bribe and a two-year wait might get you a telephone, he needs help. A headstrong shoeshine girl, Lupita, becomes his mandadera (messenger) and then his confidante and junior business partner, working her magic by bribing customs officials and making deals for tires, fans, blenders, and other fayuca (contraband). A scrawny eleven-year-old, she is not just street-brilliant but complicated and utterly fascinating. This vivid, haunting portrait of a world many Americans have visited but few understand, is a unique examination of what Mexico means to one American and what America means to the everyday Mexican people who surround and protect him.

Paperback

First published August 15, 2003

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About the author

David E. Stuart

24 books6 followers
David E. Stuart is professor and associate provost at the University of New Mexico. He is broadly trained in both anthropology and archaeology. His previous books include Prehistoric New Mexico (with R.P. Gauthier), Glimpses of the Ancient Southwest, and The Magic of Bandelier National Monument. His passion is undergraduate teaching.

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5 stars
34 (53%)
4 stars
19 (30%)
3 stars
9 (14%)
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Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews
Profile Image for Jessaka.
1,011 reviews229 followers
October 19, 2018
We stayed in a sandy motel on the beach in Guaymas, and all I remember was that the table top in our room was moving. Upon closer look, we saw that it had the smallest ants that I had ever seen, ants crawling all over it. We cleaned off the table and sat down to eat. Later on we went down to the beach, and the following day we got into our car and headed east. Guaymas was exciting.

This book wasn’t filled with adventure, at least not the kind that I am used to reading about, because no one was taking a boat trip down some dangerous river or tramping through a jungle. Still David Stuart certainly had almost as much of an adventure as my friend and I had in all of our trips around Mexico, but more than that, he knew how to tell a story.

He lived in Guaymas, Mexico in the 70s. It was a time when many young Americans were traveling to Mexico, some staying. I used to sit on the steps of Sproul Plaza at the Berkeley campus and talk to the young men who were carrying large back packs. They had been hitchhiking around America and Mexico. I was envious but without the courage to do the same. I would have to wait until I was in my 40s to see Mexico and the U.S.

David Stuart kept a journal, all travelers or writers do; It comes with the territory. He was a student of anthropology, while I was sitting in a class in it back in California. Guaymus was a small town back then, small but colorful. Stuart had just come back from being in Nicargua for a year and had a Mexican girlfriend waiting for him. He showed up at her parent’s home, tired and thin. Her family welcomed him with open arms; his girl was was distant. He stayed long enough to fatten up, realize the scene and left.

Stuart then gets his own place and spends part of the day sitting in the bar drinking of all things, Orange Crush. I have done that with orange juice. But I grew so tried of the word, Orange Crush, and wondered if it was because it was capitalized; it stuck out on the page. Orange Crush tastes awful; it isn’t good for you. As you can see by now, my hippie/college days were influenced by the health food craze, the back to earth movement.

Every afternoon David bought the daily paper, came into the Rubi bar and read it aloud. Men would gather around to listen and to talk about politics. Ah, remembrances of The News of the World, another book that I enjoyed. David’s idea of doing this was so that he could learn to pronounce Spanish better, get corrected by others. I wanted to be there listening, socializing. My own mind wandered to the fact that women were really not welcomed in bars, at least not if you were a lady. I thought of Hemmingway’s drinking in bars and how many writers have been said to be alcoholics. I doubt if that is true now. I had a picture in my mind of Malcolm Lowry’s book Under the Volcano, and how the main character, Geoffrey, lived in bars. I thought maybe it would be better to be the old burja (witch) in Lowry’s book, the one that sat at the table in one of the bars, never being bothered. Actually, I wanted to be with David on his adventures. He was kind, he loved people, and he went out of his way to help others.

But then some of his adventures I would have well left alone. As one prostitute said to him, You need to get a good woman, settle down and have a family. How right she was.

Then there was Lupita, the ten year old girl that lived on the street, a girl that he grew fond off, who he gave the job of running errands for him. She was so entertaining, sweet, and street wise. He took her to the beach, on a fishing trip, and to the U.S. where he bought appliances for people in Guaymus and smuggled them back across the border, all with her streetwise help. They were like a father/daughter team, and he wanted to adopt her.

These were fun moments, memorable ones. Another one was when he met a widower in the bar, a man who had recently lost his wife, an American. He wanted a wife, so David put an ad in the paper to find him a woman, and many came and lined up for an interview. I would have loved to have seen this too, and maybe I did in my mind’s eye.

And then the story was coming to an end, and I saw it coming like a train wreck, but then I was glad that I had come along for the ride, grateful to David for keeping a journal, and for sharing that part of his life with us.
Profile Image for Monty.
881 reviews18 followers
January 29, 2010
After reading Flight of Souls, a novel written by the author, I decided to read another one of his books because I liked the heart connection found in his writing. This memoir is gleaned from journal entries the author made in the late 1960s/early 1970s while he lived in Guaymas, Mexico (there are a couple of restaurants called Guaymas in Seattle--in Capitol Hill and White Center). He was in his early 20s at the time and was recovering from injuries he sustained in Ecuador while doing anthropology research for his PhD. In a totally non-scientific and completely heartfelt way, he tells the story of how he slowly integrated himself into the culture of the residents and how he makes close connections with some people. Though there is a sad part in the book, it was an uplifting read for me.
Profile Image for Charles King.
Author 7 books15 followers
November 17, 2015
One of those books that make our gut churn. For the serious student of Latin culture a must read. For the streetwise its as simple as the first time we learn the difference between a conocido and an amigo. Dripping with pathos and muy simpatico the resounding answer is YES, we can learn from a book set in the 1970's. Here we see a panorama of a small budget Mexican resort town. Some might call it the underbelly, yet I would call it the essence, soul or heart of Guaymas. Nope, Guaymas is not always pretty or handsome, visceral is a better adjective for Mr. Stuart's story and Guaymas itself. Yo te extrano, Lupita.
Profile Image for Michelle.
1 review2 followers
February 17, 2009
It was the first book that actually made me really cry. I was hysterical at the end. It was bizarre.
Profile Image for Bill Johnson.
366 reviews19 followers
July 11, 2024
I can't believe I left this book off my list of read books. It is a wonderful story. I've recommended it again and again. I'm sure it was at least 10 years ago and maybe a recomendation of Mary Ryan. Maybe I should go back and re-read it. I still remember the characters and the descriptions of Guaymas Mexico at a time around the 60's. The story is beautiful.

July 10, 2024
Just finished re reading Guaymas Chronicles. I could count on one hand the number of books I've read twice (the French Lieutenant's Wife is one). And I stand by my initial 5-star rating.
For everybody? No. But it is such a nice touching story. David Stuart is jilted by a girl outside of Guaymas Mexico and he settles in in the summer of 1970. Life is so different in Guaymas. The people are authentic and care. The food is tasty. The heat is stifling. Stuart get to know the taxi drivers and bartenders at the hotel he stays at and also has interactions with the men and women that run the day to day lives in the town. At the ceneter of the story is Lupita, the ten year old street kid that has never know love of family. She becomes David's Mandadera (runs errands etc.). There are trips up to Tuscon and on the last trip a wonderful fishing outing with Lupita catching a trophy Yellowtail. When summer ends two tropical storms hit Guaymas and Lupita is nowhere to be seen. Kids rarely survive life on the streets either physically or socially. Lupita is no exception. It is the loss of Lupita that gives David Stuart direction and with a heavy heart he leaves Guaymas. He leaves the friends, food and memories to return to the US and become the Anthropologist at the University of New Mexico.
I didn't summarize the book the first time, but since i finished it today, the images are fresh on my mind.
It still is a Wonderful Book!
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Felipe Splawn.
19 reviews1 follower
September 15, 2019
Loved this book. Could really feel what Guaymas was like at the the author was there. Wonderful insights into street life of the everyday people. Lupita was was a treasure as David's mandadera, and helped through thick and thin. Their relationship was very touching.
10 reviews1 follower
October 27, 2008
Loved this book. It is a must read!! Non-fiction about a guy down in Mexico in the 70's and the friends he meets and his love for Mexico.
Profile Image for Derek.
129 reviews7 followers
January 3, 2010
Great account of 1970s Guaymas. Makes me want to go back there.
Profile Image for Michelle Rusk.
Author 12 books6 followers
November 29, 2015
This is the second time I've read this book. I love the stories and the characters in the book. He has a great knack for storytelling.
Profile Image for Dorlienna D Lane.
8 reviews
July 24, 2024
The book description does well in explaining the story with exception to the emotional connections. The relationship between David and Lupita was perceived by some as inappropriate. The fact that an American gringo would employ and care for an 11 year old street urchin was unusual, but the growth of the relationship was my favorite part of this book. At 11 Lupita also cared for Juanito the shoeshine boy by protecting him and providing him some of her messenger earnings. The most unfortunate part of the story is that David did not tell Lupita that he loved her as a daughter. The men took David in, in friendship and as brothers essentially imbedding David into the community. I truly enjoyed this true story of Guaymas in the 60’s and during my next visit I will stand by the lamp post to watch the sea thinking of Lupita.
Profile Image for David.
27 reviews6 followers
December 26, 2022
This is a really interesting book for understanding intimate aspects of snap town northern Mexican culture. It's also, in some ways a coming of age story for a young man. However, one of the reasons that I enjoyed it so much is because I'm friends with the author. His personality comes through in his writing so very much that, on spite of the 50+years since he wrote it, and that I haven't seen him in seven years, it felt like I was spending time with my friend.
Profile Image for Kathy Shimpock.
109 reviews4 followers
August 12, 2023
This book is the memoir of an anthropology grad-student who after an injury makes his home in Guaymas, Mexico. Through the eyes of the American author, we see the Mexican culture of the 1960s. While the writing is interesting and compelling, this reader cringed when reading passages about the relationship between men and women in this society. However, the story shines when it focused on his relationship with an orphaned street girl. The ending is poignant and may bring tears to your eyes.
5 reviews8 followers
February 29, 2020
A very interesting story that gives you a little insight into live that region of Mexico in the 70s. A sad story.
Profile Image for Raquel Johnson.
75 reviews11 followers
May 21, 2023
Well, I cried at the end. Great story. A must-read. I look forward to the next.
8 reviews
Read
July 12, 2023
I read this book close to 2 decades ago and recently passed it in to a friend. She stated it was the best book read in years! I am going to re-read it when is returned!
Profile Image for Nichole.
112 reviews10 followers
November 18, 2008
I love this country very much and because so I have only one thing to say to David E. Stuart, “Just leave!” This story is about his life where he is an American who ends up in Mexico. Pretty much for the whole book he states over and over again how Mexico is so much better than the United States…that is until he runs out of money. When this is the case, he returns to the ‘States, works a bit to get some money, and then returns to the land that he loves so much.

Just stay there!
42 reviews1 follower
Read
November 16, 2020
Loved this book. 5/5 on descriptions of the food, environment, and people. I also enjoyed the view of Mexican social culture. While there were a few areas I felt dragged on a bit, this was a very good read. It pulled at my heartstrings, made me hungry, and gave me things to chew on.
Profile Image for Jeremiah.
24 reviews1 follower
November 24, 2008
Not a fantastically written book, but the story is so great and interesting that I had to give it a five.
Profile Image for Katie.
110 reviews1 follower
July 16, 2012
For those who love Mexico.

A gift from my friend Sara, who knew I wouldn't read it just because she told me to, and so sent the actual book.
Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews

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