Not for me. Starts off great (the first 100 pages or so). But by the time I'd got about 300 pages through this 600-something-page book, I realised Dew was simply rehashing the same jokes and observations over and over again:
1) Tunnels are awful
2) Japan is overcrowded
3) Boy, aren't the Japanese small and don't they talk funny
4) She is a big awkward foreigner
5) Her Japanese is terrible
6) She is a lone female cyclist and therefore an object of much fascination
7) It's hard to find a camping spot
8) It rains a lot in the rainy season
At first these jokes/observations are amusing/interesting but after the twentieth time it's repeated, it gets a little stale. There's no real sense of place or of genuine interest in Japan and the Japanese either (as compared to, for example, Fuchsia Dunlop's wonderful descriptions of China in Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper, or Miranda Emmerson's observations of the countries she travels through in Fragrant Heart), rather there's a sort of slightly-superior fondness with no depth to it.
Also, Dew share pretty much every single thing ever that happens to her - including visits to various toilets and supermarkets. A couple of these are interesting - musical toilet rolls and finding Quaker Oats in a Japanese supermarket for example - but otherwise it's a case of too much information.
Dew's 'self-deprecating' humour and 'clever twists' on words, after 300 pages of the stuff, become irritating. She's like one of those people who continually put themselves down only to have others say nice stuff about them. And her observations of the Japanese often veer from 'fond' into the territory of patronising.
She's a good writer, but I think this book was more focused on being 'funny' travelogue all about ew and her bike rather than a book about *Japan*. It's not entirely her fault though, the book was badly edited - could have been at least 300 pages shorter, and they could have removed at least 10 pages if they took out all the references to her visits to toilets and supermarkets and descriptions of every single tunnel she went through ever and the rain.
I gave up after skimming pages 300-450, (there were some worthwhile bits) and then flicking through the last couple hundred pages and thinking 'why bother'.