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The Coat Route: Craft, Luxury, & Obsession on the Trail of a $50,000 Coat
In today’s world of fast fashion, is there a place for a handcrafted $50,000 coat?
When journalist Meg Lukens Noonan learned of an unthinkably expensive, entirely handcrafted overcoat that a fourth-generation tailor had made for one of his longtime clients, she set off on an adventure to understand its provenance, and from that impulse unspooled rich and colorful stories about its components, the centuries-old bespoke industry and its traditions, and the master craftsmen whose trade is an art form.
In The Coat Route, Noonan pieces together the creation of the coat in question, tracing its elements to their far-flung sources, from the remote mountains of Peru, where villagers shear vicunas—whose soft fleece is more coveted and rare than the finest cashmere—to the fabulous Florentine headquarters of Stefano Ricci, the world’s greatest silk designer; from the family-owned French fabric house Dormeuil, founded in 1842, which drapes kings, presidents, and movie stars to the 150-year-old English button-making firm that creates the ne plus ultra of fasteners out of Indian water-buffalo horn and the workshop of the master hand engraver who makes the eighteen-karat gold plaque that hangs inside the coat’s collar. We meet the dapper son-in-law of an Australian wine baron who commissions the coat’s creation, and we come to know John Cutler, one of the top bespoke tailors in the world, who works his magic with scissors and thread out of his Sydney shop, redolent of cedar and English wool.
Featuring a cast of offbeat, obsessed, and wildly entertaining characters, The Coat Route presents a rich tapestry of local masters, individual artisans, and family-owned companies that have stood against the tide of mass consumerism. As Noonan comes to realize, these craftsmen, some of whom find themselves on the brink of retirement with no obvious successors, have increasing reason to believe that their way is the best way—best for their customers, best for the environment, and best for the quality of life of all involved. The Coat Route is a love song to things of lasting value.
Praise for The Coat Route
“A spirited tour of fashion history . . . The Coat Route compels us to remember that behind every garment is a deep history and a pair of human hands—whether those hands stitched the dress’s hem or pulled a lever that stringed together that $30 must-have jacket.” — The Wall Street Journal
“Delightful . . . The Coat Route celebrates those who work with their hands, creating something beautiful and lasting.” — The Seattle Times
“[Meg Lukens Noonan’s] exploration of the business of fashion is fascinating and thorough, and her examination of bespoke goods redefines the words luxury and obsession.” —The Daily Beast
“Traditions of bespoke tailoring (and other related crafts) are skirting the edge of extinction. Noonan’s delightful story makes us hope they endure.” — Publishers Weekly
“A fabulous story, brilliantly told . . . I couldn’t have enjoyed it more.” —Bill Bryson
“As captivating as any mystery or thriller, The Coat Route demystifies the rarefied universe of bespoke tailoring and provides a lens into the culture that covets it. It educates and inspires. I couldn’t put it down!” —Tim Gunn
When journalist Meg Lukens Noonan learned of an unthinkably expensive, entirely handcrafted overcoat that a fourth-generation tailor had made for one of his longtime clients, she set off on an adventure to understand its provenance, and from that impulse unspooled rich and colorful stories about its components, the centuries-old bespoke industry and its traditions, and the master craftsmen whose trade is an art form.
In The Coat Route, Noonan pieces together the creation of the coat in question, tracing its elements to their far-flung sources, from the remote mountains of Peru, where villagers shear vicunas—whose soft fleece is more coveted and rare than the finest cashmere—to the fabulous Florentine headquarters of Stefano Ricci, the world’s greatest silk designer; from the family-owned French fabric house Dormeuil, founded in 1842, which drapes kings, presidents, and movie stars to the 150-year-old English button-making firm that creates the ne plus ultra of fasteners out of Indian water-buffalo horn and the workshop of the master hand engraver who makes the eighteen-karat gold plaque that hangs inside the coat’s collar. We meet the dapper son-in-law of an Australian wine baron who commissions the coat’s creation, and we come to know John Cutler, one of the top bespoke tailors in the world, who works his magic with scissors and thread out of his Sydney shop, redolent of cedar and English wool.
Featuring a cast of offbeat, obsessed, and wildly entertaining characters, The Coat Route presents a rich tapestry of local masters, individual artisans, and family-owned companies that have stood against the tide of mass consumerism. As Noonan comes to realize, these craftsmen, some of whom find themselves on the brink of retirement with no obvious successors, have increasing reason to believe that their way is the best way—best for their customers, best for the environment, and best for the quality of life of all involved. The Coat Route is a love song to things of lasting value.
Praise for The Coat Route
“A spirited tour of fashion history . . . The Coat Route compels us to remember that behind every garment is a deep history and a pair of human hands—whether those hands stitched the dress’s hem or pulled a lever that stringed together that $30 must-have jacket.” — The Wall Street Journal
“Delightful . . . The Coat Route celebrates those who work with their hands, creating something beautiful and lasting.” — The Seattle Times
“[Meg Lukens Noonan’s] exploration of the business of fashion is fascinating and thorough, and her examination of bespoke goods redefines the words luxury and obsession.” —The Daily Beast
“Traditions of bespoke tailoring (and other related crafts) are skirting the edge of extinction. Noonan’s delightful story makes us hope they endure.” — Publishers Weekly
“A fabulous story, brilliantly told . . . I couldn’t have enjoyed it more.” —Bill Bryson
“As captivating as any mystery or thriller, The Coat Route demystifies the rarefied universe of bespoke tailoring and provides a lens into the culture that covets it. It educates and inspires. I couldn’t put it down!” —Tim Gunn
244 pages, Hardcover
First published July 1, 2013
35 people are currently reading
891 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 99 reviews
September 11, 2013
Gosh, I loved this book! I'm a sewer and interested in textiles and the surrounding industries, so this pushed all of the buttons, so to speak.
I didn't worry about WHY someone would commission a coat that wound up costing $50,000. I know there are people out there with boatloads of $$, so I'm happy that they're supporting a bunch of crafts that I care about. As the client mentioned, he could have easily spent that on a car which would only last a few years; this coat may be passed on to heirs!
So there's the basic fabric: vicuna. I have never even seen or touched this, and after reading about its rarity, doubt that I ever will. Vicunas are a fairly rare & protected species. It was neat to read of the changes that have been made to make harvest of their hair a sustainable and on-going source of income for the Peruvians.
Lining: silk, printed and produced in Italy by a firm famous for neckties. The owner was persuaded to sell a lining's worth of the fabric because he knew and admired Cutler, the tailor and creator of The Coat. Again, Noonan provides a good look at that industry.
Buttons: horn, made in Great Britain. Another exploration of a subject that I never dreamed could be made interesting.
Label: engraved gold. Holy cow. This MAY have been over the top, but it was still interesting.
Labor: all hand work in the assembly and in the drafting of the pattern, in the shop of John H. Cutler, a fourth-generation tailor in Sydney, Australia. For me, the most interesting part of the book is the discussion of what's happening to all of these labor-intensive, long apprenticeship skills like tailoring. In a word, they're probably more endangered than the vicunas. I learned what the term "bespoke" actually means: "When a customer went to his local tailor to order a garment, he would first select and reserve, or "bespeak," a length of fabric. That cloth was then "bespoken" for. "Bespoke" evolved to mean one thing and one thing only: clothing made from scratch, using a pattern drafted to the precise measurements and wishes of one individual."
This is Slow Clothing :-) The client, by the way, was thrilled with the coat and ordered a second one in tan - the first was navy.
The book, though, is a fast and fascinating read. Highly recommended!
I didn't worry about WHY someone would commission a coat that wound up costing $50,000. I know there are people out there with boatloads of $$, so I'm happy that they're supporting a bunch of crafts that I care about. As the client mentioned, he could have easily spent that on a car which would only last a few years; this coat may be passed on to heirs!
So there's the basic fabric: vicuna. I have never even seen or touched this, and after reading about its rarity, doubt that I ever will. Vicunas are a fairly rare & protected species. It was neat to read of the changes that have been made to make harvest of their hair a sustainable and on-going source of income for the Peruvians.
Lining: silk, printed and produced in Italy by a firm famous for neckties. The owner was persuaded to sell a lining's worth of the fabric because he knew and admired Cutler, the tailor and creator of The Coat. Again, Noonan provides a good look at that industry.
Buttons: horn, made in Great Britain. Another exploration of a subject that I never dreamed could be made interesting.
Label: engraved gold. Holy cow. This MAY have been over the top, but it was still interesting.
Labor: all hand work in the assembly and in the drafting of the pattern, in the shop of John H. Cutler, a fourth-generation tailor in Sydney, Australia. For me, the most interesting part of the book is the discussion of what's happening to all of these labor-intensive, long apprenticeship skills like tailoring. In a word, they're probably more endangered than the vicunas. I learned what the term "bespoke" actually means: "When a customer went to his local tailor to order a garment, he would first select and reserve, or "bespeak," a length of fabric. That cloth was then "bespoken" for. "Bespoke" evolved to mean one thing and one thing only: clothing made from scratch, using a pattern drafted to the precise measurements and wishes of one individual."
This is Slow Clothing :-) The client, by the way, was thrilled with the coat and ordered a second one in tan - the first was navy.
The book, though, is a fast and fascinating read. Highly recommended!
May 23, 2021
I don't normally read non-fiction books, but my dad recommended this and I am glad I followed his suggestion because this was a great read. I studied costuming (design, drafting, draping, tailoring) at school so I have aways had an interest in hand crafted garments. Reading about the process of creating this coat, from harvesting the fabric, to choosing the lining, to fitting and construction, was absolutely fascinating. The writing tended to meander a bit at points, going off on tangents about things that weren't entirey relevant, but overall it was well written and kept my interest. I am definitely on the author's side here, I think that people rely too much on fast fashion these days and there needs to be a shift back towards craftsmanship. That being said, $50,000 is an awful lot to spend on one piece of clothing. It was definitely interesting to discover the reason behind the high price tag. I would recommend this read to anyone, not just bespoke enthusiasts, but really anyone who wears clothing (which is hopefully all of you). It might make you think twice about buying that $5 shirt from Forever 21 and may make you want to invest in something pricier but more permanent.
March 8, 2014
There's nothing wrong with the writing, and the author's research is impeccable - but the obsession with extreme material consumption and the unacknowledged male-centeredness of this book just made it off-putting. The author engages in completely uncritical fawning over these very wealthy men and their fancy cars - presumably because they "let" her into their world for a peek at their insulated and privileged lives. The wide-eyed admiration of the man who goes big-game hunting just made me think - wow, I am glad I don't know these people.
May 3, 2014
I don't know what made me pick up this book - just the idea of anyone spending $50,000 on a custom made coat or on any piece of clothing is baffling to me. Yet, upon sampling the introduction, Noonan's curious yet practical voice hooked me. Also, she and I share the same habit of buying cheap, "disposable" clothes at H&M and Forever 21. Once I read the first few pages, I knew I was going to be in the hands of someone similar enough to myself - i.e., not a high fashion insider. Tracing the provenance of the coat, from the tailor, to the origins of the materials from the vicuna, to the buttons, the silk lining takes Noonan to Peruvian mountaintops, Florence, factories and famous Savile Row of bespoke tailors. Her journey created a newfound appreciation for not just the finer things in life, but things that are created well and are made to last. What must if feel like to wear something of the finest materials and constructed by a skilled craftsman - all for you specifically, not off the rack, not made to order, but bespoke.
February 21, 2017
Meg Lukens Noonan wrote The Coat Route after reading of an overcoat made by Sydney tailor John Cutler for $50,000. The book is a loving description of the fine materials and expert labour that went into creating this unique garment. Noonan tells us the stories behind the vicuna wool, the fabric, the silk, the horn buttons and the other elements of the coat's construction. Along the way she gives us potted histories of Savile Row, the Andean vicuna industry, the Yorkshire mill towns, button manufacture and Italian designer fashion. We meet some larger-than-life characters, but we are never too far from the realisation that all of this history is at risk of soon being swept away by the tide of mass manufacturing in the modern world. The Coat Route is a delightful and interesting read, with an elegiac tinge of sadness to it.
January 7, 2014
Most amazing book. Even if you don't sew, it would be incredibly interesting. She follows the materials used in making a $50,000 vicuna overcoat by a Bespoke Tailor in Australia. She goes backwards and finds the source of the linings (Italy), the bone buttons (England), the vicuna (mountains of Peru) the tailors in trade (Saville Row), and does an indepth history of it all. It may sound boring, but it isn't. She's a great writer, and it makes you think about our throw-away clothes. For me, as a sewer, it inspired me to start sewing again, but even as someone just buying clothes, it's a very thought provoking read. Highly recommend it.
November 3, 2018
The concept behind the writing of The Coat Route instantly appealed to me. The author, Meg Lukens Noonan, had heard of a coat that had been sold for $50,000 and decided to follow the path created in its making. The journey took her across the globe as she met with primary producers, textiles manufacturers and artisans who had contributed to the making of the garment.
I have to confess, up front, that I have a great passion for all things related to textiles so I’d built up very high expectations for this book. I then found myself battling to get through the first chapter.
Each chapter in The Coat Route focusses on an individual aspect of the production of the coat. This includes fibre, yarn, fabric, trimmings, design and construction. In each we meet either a person or a representative from an organisation that contributed, through their specialised skill, to the finished product. In chapter one we are introduced to the tradition of bespoke tailoring with a visit to Saville Row to meet those observing the customs and conventions of the industry. I can’t quite put my finger on why this chapter didn’t engage me, but it didn’t, and I felt ill at ease that it was setting the tone for the remainder of the book.
Fortunately, the sense I had that I was wading through treacle ended with the first chapter. As I progressed I found each chapter provided some entertaining historical information about the subject it was dedicated to, facts about the current state of the industry and an introduction to some wonderful people who showed remarkable generosity in sharing their knowledge. Many of the people we are introduced to exhibited great warmth describing how they came to be involved in this project and there were some amusing and entertaining stories disclosed.
While there were many amazing aspects to the book and I think I found points of interest in each chapter I’d like to highlight my favourites. I particularly enjoyed the chapter on the fleece. We learn of the establishment of reserves to protect the endangered Vicuna population and the return to Incan harvesting methods that ensure sustainability. Vicuna are related to Alpacas and fibre production from these stunning looking animals has been placed into the hands of rural Andean communities. This has seen a rise in the Vicuna population and the communities are benefitting from the production of this highly sort after and expensive fibre.
Then there was the chapter on the buttons. Who knew that buttons could incite such extreme behaviours in some people? There are some fascinating and highly amusing stories that span the ages in this chapter.
Finally I need to note the chapter on the gold trimmings. I hadn’t expected to find this topic of particular interest however I was surprised at the skill required to succeed in this industry. Included are some examples of excessive competitiveness demonstrated by some of the industry’s past masters which I found quite amazing.
While it got off to a slow start for me, overall I found this book informative, entertaining and, at times, surprisingly amusing.
I have to confess, up front, that I have a great passion for all things related to textiles so I’d built up very high expectations for this book. I then found myself battling to get through the first chapter.
Each chapter in The Coat Route focusses on an individual aspect of the production of the coat. This includes fibre, yarn, fabric, trimmings, design and construction. In each we meet either a person or a representative from an organisation that contributed, through their specialised skill, to the finished product. In chapter one we are introduced to the tradition of bespoke tailoring with a visit to Saville Row to meet those observing the customs and conventions of the industry. I can’t quite put my finger on why this chapter didn’t engage me, but it didn’t, and I felt ill at ease that it was setting the tone for the remainder of the book.
Fortunately, the sense I had that I was wading through treacle ended with the first chapter. As I progressed I found each chapter provided some entertaining historical information about the subject it was dedicated to, facts about the current state of the industry and an introduction to some wonderful people who showed remarkable generosity in sharing their knowledge. Many of the people we are introduced to exhibited great warmth describing how they came to be involved in this project and there were some amusing and entertaining stories disclosed.
While there were many amazing aspects to the book and I think I found points of interest in each chapter I’d like to highlight my favourites. I particularly enjoyed the chapter on the fleece. We learn of the establishment of reserves to protect the endangered Vicuna population and the return to Incan harvesting methods that ensure sustainability. Vicuna are related to Alpacas and fibre production from these stunning looking animals has been placed into the hands of rural Andean communities. This has seen a rise in the Vicuna population and the communities are benefitting from the production of this highly sort after and expensive fibre.
Then there was the chapter on the buttons. Who knew that buttons could incite such extreme behaviours in some people? There are some fascinating and highly amusing stories that span the ages in this chapter.
Finally I need to note the chapter on the gold trimmings. I hadn’t expected to find this topic of particular interest however I was surprised at the skill required to succeed in this industry. Included are some examples of excessive competitiveness demonstrated by some of the industry’s past masters which I found quite amazing.
While it got off to a slow start for me, overall I found this book informative, entertaining and, at times, surprisingly amusing.
October 25, 2020
The coat route is an ode to things that are made to last. It tells a story about the making of a $50,000 overcoat that, for untrained eyes, looks like something you get from a department store.
From the ritual vicuña shearing in Peru to the weaving of Stefanno Ricci silks to the long-held family tradition of tailoring, the author shows that the real luxury lays in the story of each element of the clothing.
This book gives me an interesting perspective, that luxury means being able to buy things from people who dedicate their whole life into perfecting their crafts.
It also talks about sustainability problems arising from fast-fashion clothes. I am definitely more cautious about purchasing fast-fashion clothes after reading this.
From the ritual vicuña shearing in Peru to the weaving of Stefanno Ricci silks to the long-held family tradition of tailoring, the author shows that the real luxury lays in the story of each element of the clothing.
This book gives me an interesting perspective, that luxury means being able to buy things from people who dedicate their whole life into perfecting their crafts.
It also talks about sustainability problems arising from fast-fashion clothes. I am definitely more cautious about purchasing fast-fashion clothes after reading this.
January 11, 2025
As a fashion history lover, I gave this book 5 stars because it was interesting and poignant and I learned some cool new fashion terms and sources. I’ve always been interested in the tracking and lifecycle of one certain piece as well as how it exemplifies fashion sustainability, so this definitely filled that niche.
July 26, 2013
While I don't think of myself as an extravagant person, when I spend, I spend. I managed to shock my seniors when I bought omiyage (souvenirs) on a trip. I like to buy bargains, but I also like to splash out on things I like. Like a piano.
Ok, digressing. Ahem, back to topic. The Coat Route traces the origins of a $50 000 coat (Wait, what kind of dollar? USD? ASD?). If I had that much money, I would have gotten the top-range furisode already for ... Ok, stopping before I get distracted again.
Sorry, when it comes to buying stuff I have a very short attention span.
Anyway, back to the book. The book looks at the different aspects of a coat, from the lining, to the buttons to sewing it entirely by hand. By the end of the book, I wasn't wondering about the $50 000 price tag, I was wondering why it wasn't higher. This coat was a labour of love.
I found the book very engrossing and easy to read. Each chapter starts of with the tailor (John H. Cutler) and how he made the coat. The chapter then continues with the author's journey to that particular factory to see how the button/lining/engraving/etc was made. And like the author, I grew to want something that was truly bespoke. Like a nice dress, for formal occasions.
All in all, an enjoyable and educational read.
Disclaimer: I got this galley for free from the publisher via NetGalley in exchange for a free and honest review.
This review was first posted to Inside the mind of a Bibliophile
Ok, digressing. Ahem, back to topic. The Coat Route traces the origins of a $50 000 coat (Wait, what kind of dollar? USD? ASD?). If I had that much money, I would have gotten the top-range furisode already for ... Ok, stopping before I get distracted again.
Sorry, when it comes to buying stuff I have a very short attention span.
Anyway, back to the book. The book looks at the different aspects of a coat, from the lining, to the buttons to sewing it entirely by hand. By the end of the book, I wasn't wondering about the $50 000 price tag, I was wondering why it wasn't higher. This coat was a labour of love.
I found the book very engrossing and easy to read. Each chapter starts of with the tailor (John H. Cutler) and how he made the coat. The chapter then continues with the author's journey to that particular factory to see how the button/lining/engraving/etc was made. And like the author, I grew to want something that was truly bespoke. Like a nice dress, for formal occasions.
All in all, an enjoyable and educational read.
Disclaimer: I got this galley for free from the publisher via NetGalley in exchange for a free and honest review.
This review was first posted to Inside the mind of a Bibliophile
February 27, 2016
This could have easily been a 5 star book but it quite wasn't.
Noonan wrote a book a about something that evokes tactile longing - the wish to touch the materials she describes. The least she could have done to ease that hunger would have been providing proper photos. Especially considering that she states more than once that she carried her camera with her. The poor quality small photos in my edition just didn't do.
The second and perhaps more annoying shortcoming for me was the constant "awe" of the bespoke world and the people who have the means to consume products made by hand. I presume that for the majority of the customers who keep the crafts and traditions alive simply by being loyal customers, the amount of money is not as shocking as it is for Noonan. It is silly to convert it to "normal" terms because it is so relative and obviously it is utterly meaningless to be so surprised about the prices of luxury items. The price is there because there are people willing to pay it. Its as simple as that.
Otherwise it was a very enjoyable and informative read. It had lots of names and companies that gave basis for hours of googling afterwards to get even deeper into the wondrous world of handmade clothes. The book has its emphasis on the fact that the crafts and traditions are slowly but steadily becoming extinct in our "fast-consumption" world. It needs good marketing and entrepreneurship skills to keep them alive, which the old school craftsmen often lack to compete on equal grounds.
Noonan wrote a book a about something that evokes tactile longing - the wish to touch the materials she describes. The least she could have done to ease that hunger would have been providing proper photos. Especially considering that she states more than once that she carried her camera with her. The poor quality small photos in my edition just didn't do.
The second and perhaps more annoying shortcoming for me was the constant "awe" of the bespoke world and the people who have the means to consume products made by hand. I presume that for the majority of the customers who keep the crafts and traditions alive simply by being loyal customers, the amount of money is not as shocking as it is for Noonan. It is silly to convert it to "normal" terms because it is so relative and obviously it is utterly meaningless to be so surprised about the prices of luxury items. The price is there because there are people willing to pay it. Its as simple as that.
Otherwise it was a very enjoyable and informative read. It had lots of names and companies that gave basis for hours of googling afterwards to get even deeper into the wondrous world of handmade clothes. The book has its emphasis on the fact that the crafts and traditions are slowly but steadily becoming extinct in our "fast-consumption" world. It needs good marketing and entrepreneurship skills to keep them alive, which the old school craftsmen often lack to compete on equal grounds.
September 4, 2024
In this wonderful piece of narrative journalism, Noonan tracks the components and craftsmen involved in making one of the most expensive coats recently made, from the cute and formerly endangered Peruvian camelids (that's animals in the camel family, as I found out) that provide the wool to the fabric dealers, silk printers and button makers.
The Coat Route is in the same vein as Paterniti's The Telling Room: A Tale of Love, Betrayal, Revenge, and the World's Greatest Piece of Cheese, though much lighter on the personal involvement and "I ended up researching this for like a decade" fronts. Noonan hits a masterful balance between observation and history, and puts things into perspective without pushing her point of view.
On an unrelated note, I'd make this mandatory reading in business school. All the harder-better-faster-stronger, greed-is-good orthodoxy needs a counterpoint, and this expose on the value of handmade quality might just be it, especially since it doesn't read so annoyingly moralizing as, for example, Life Inc.: How the World Became a Corporation and How to Take it Back.
The Coat Route is in the same vein as Paterniti's The Telling Room: A Tale of Love, Betrayal, Revenge, and the World's Greatest Piece of Cheese, though much lighter on the personal involvement and "I ended up researching this for like a decade" fronts. Noonan hits a masterful balance between observation and history, and puts things into perspective without pushing her point of view.
On an unrelated note, I'd make this mandatory reading in business school. All the harder-better-faster-stronger, greed-is-good orthodoxy needs a counterpoint, and this expose on the value of handmade quality might just be it, especially since it doesn't read so annoyingly moralizing as, for example, Life Inc.: How the World Became a Corporation and How to Take it Back.
November 3, 2013
I recently read a book about the trend of fast, throw-away fashion (Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion; highly recommended), so I was intrigued about the other end of the spectrum.
The Coat Route tells the story of an exquisite, hand-stitched vicuna overcoat that was made by John Cutler, one of the world's most gifted bespoke tailors. To tell the tale, the author details Cutler's process and also visits the various master crafters around the globe who provided the fabric and trimmings and who, like Cutler, aspire to sky-high sartorial standards.
She travels to the Andes to see vicunas, a rare llama-like animal whose fleece was used to create the coat's superfine, softer-than-cashmere wool. She visits the Italian fabric house that made the coat's hand-printed silk lining. And the 150-year-old British button maker that crafts buttons that are miniature works of art. And the list goes on.
Using one very special coat as a jumping-off point, Lukens Noonan introduces us to the people whose passion and workmanship go into each and every element of garments like these. Along the way, she delves into the (often colorful) history of these trades, and even spends an afternoon with some of Cutler's clients, whose enthusiasm for his work practically explodes off the page.
An interesting (and entertaining) read for anyone who's interested in tailoring, or in craftsmanship in general.
The Coat Route tells the story of an exquisite, hand-stitched vicuna overcoat that was made by John Cutler, one of the world's most gifted bespoke tailors. To tell the tale, the author details Cutler's process and also visits the various master crafters around the globe who provided the fabric and trimmings and who, like Cutler, aspire to sky-high sartorial standards.
She travels to the Andes to see vicunas, a rare llama-like animal whose fleece was used to create the coat's superfine, softer-than-cashmere wool. She visits the Italian fabric house that made the coat's hand-printed silk lining. And the 150-year-old British button maker that crafts buttons that are miniature works of art. And the list goes on.
Using one very special coat as a jumping-off point, Lukens Noonan introduces us to the people whose passion and workmanship go into each and every element of garments like these. Along the way, she delves into the (often colorful) history of these trades, and even spends an afternoon with some of Cutler's clients, whose enthusiasm for his work practically explodes off the page.
An interesting (and entertaining) read for anyone who's interested in tailoring, or in craftsmanship in general.
June 15, 2013
This book which follows the creation of a "bespoke" coat from learning about the rare vicunas animal (distant relative of the camel), almost extinct, which provides the most expensive wool in the world, to the world of specialty buttons and the beautiful silk used in the lining- no detail was missed. A captivating story of the many craftsmen and their skills - quickly dying out - that produced this most treasured of coats. At first I felt like Meg Lukens Noonan was doing for the tailor, and perhaps even the fashion industry, what Michael Pollan did for the farmers with his book The Omnivore's Dilemma. I was not so sure that was an accurate assessment though, when I read the rather jarring opinion of the author at the end of the chapter "The Tailor", when she responds (rather callously in my opinion) to the tailor who has just expressed his sorrow at the dying out of his craft with the words "But things change...I think it's time. The word changes and you have to change with it." .... What?! I was flabbergasted at her flippancy after this incredible journey she has just taken her readers on. My reaction to all I had been learning was more along the lines of: We must save this dying craft! Sigh...
October 15, 2022
Oh, how bothersome it was to read and stop every other paragraph just to look up the words and notions I didn't know, and Google the photos. But at the same time, how educational and intriguing! Never will anyone, who has read it, think of tailoring or bespoke or the garment of the rich and famous (or anyone) in general the same way. As a tailoring student, I really loved it, but it really is for anyone. I now know the devastating truth that I will probaby never achieve the quality in it's true meaning but I will definitely unravel my bad seams and try again less reluctantly.
October 6, 2013
An excellent look at the dying art of true bespoke tailoring and the many small, local industries it supports. It really makes you think about how to approach your own spending, not just on clothes, but on all of the disposable objects in our lives. I know it made me want to really commit to a different way of thinking about consumer goods overall! Added bonus: this book is a beautifully written travel/adventure journal. Highly recommended.
December 11, 2013
What is luxury? Is it the brands you buy or is it something else? Ms Noonan investigates the creation of a single hand made garment and in so doing examines the current reality of fast fashion versus the world of handmade, bespoke clothing. A very interesting look at the people who craft the materials and the products, and at the people who acquire them.
Very interesting book - lots to think about.
Very interesting book - lots to think about.
December 20, 2013
Ok, there's no way I could spend $50000 on a coat, but this made me think about the disposable nature of most clothes we buy. Incredible that there are more particles of polyester than grains of sand on some beaches. After reading this book I am never buying polyester again!
March 16, 2015
Very interesting about couture sewing and tailoring.
September 3, 2021
剛讀完梭羅的”湖濱散記“, 見識到他不修邊幅的自在生活, 唾棄取笑世人為了華服美廈的奔波勞碌... 沒想到下一本書讀的卻是一個美國記者, 為了一件價值5萬美元的毛大衣, 慎重之至地在歐美澳洲旅行, 一路上追源朔流, 從此件大衣訂製之始到完工交貨穿在身上, 書中記錄了自2009年起到2012年中的旅行所見所聞及省思... 兩本書反差之大乃千里之遙!
讀著這本書, 我好似跟著作者旅行, 先去英國倫敦的全訂製店, 再去秘魯高原看原料出在羊身上的小羊駝, 然後是義大利佛羅倫斯的絲質襯裡, 法國巴黎的布商, 英國約克郡的布廠, 英國黑鄉的獸角鈕扣, 澳洲雪梨的雕花品牌及裁縫團隊, 最後到加拿大溫哥華的大衣主人家看完成品... 依大衣各個部分的來處與製作者見面, 探討其製作過程與堅持理念, 是不是很有意思呀?! (其中提到的秘魯高原和英國西約克郡的本寧山, Bradford地區, 都是我健行走過的地方, 特別覺得好熟悉!)
唯一可惜的是, 我覺得很多的敘述應該要有照片為佐, 許多製作過程(譬如說紡紗染布等), 若是有影片會更清楚! 雖然很享受文字的敘述, 但如果能把這本書寫的東西拍成一部紀錄片, 應該也會很好看!
書中批評現金社會喪失了對品味和品質的尊重, 城市裡大部分的人都穿得既不舒服, 又不好看, 也沒特色... 既使有錢人也一樣, 因為他們以為購買昂貴的東西就是好的. 作者祭出莎士比亞的話 - “穿著你所能負擔得起的最好衣裳, 質料應高貴, 切忌俗麗, 因為衣冠常代表其人.” 還用王爾德的說法連結服裝藝術美和世界的希望 - “人, 就算成不了藝術品, 也該穿一身藝術品... 在美麗事物中找到美麗意義的, 是有教養的人, 對這些人來說, 這世界還有希望.”
我其實懷疑作者是否被聘僱為這些書中的低調奢華品牌做宣傳打廣告, 因為書中大力推崇低調的全訂製業, 提到他們有著光榮的傳統, 持著 ”知道, 而不是炫耀” 的原則, 提供個人化的商品和服務, 以頂級的品質和專業的手藝, 強調剪裁合身, 穿起來典雅俐落, 不是光鮮亮麗, 而是新古典的簡樸風格. 他們的顧客對大眾一眼就認得出的精品名牌從不屑一顧, 因為人人可買, 處處可買, 也是量產供應的.
而那些及時生產系統製造的快速時尚, 利用行銷宣傳廣告公關, 吸引我們持續不斷地消費, 短期用過即丟的平價衣服就更糟了. 它們讓我們不再覺得自己購買的東西有多特別, 多有價值. 而且背後其實有看不見的環境污染代價及開發中國家的勞力血汗成本, 購買它們其實遠比我們想像的還要昂貴!
相反的, 手作技術所能提供的滿足感與實在感是慢活觀念下的產物, 5萬美元買的不只是衣服, 還有時間, 熱情, 專注, 投入, 與... 愛! (182頁講到織布工廠老闆摸著羊毛布, “流露出非常像是愛情一般的情緒”.) 而作者自己的省思是減少消費, 盡力修補破損衣物, 並出售不想要的衣物, 很斷捨離.
我自己不買名牌包, 買衣服很少看品牌, 因為身材沒什麼變, 許多20幾歲時穿的衣服到現在都還在... 我是絕對偏向梭羅那個向度的穿衣哲學: “舒服就好, 華麗不重要“. 5萬美元的大衣我買不下手, 這本書我是當作��記中的博物館展出作品來欣賞的!
總的來說, 這本書提供了一扇窗, 讓我一窺金字塔頂端那些豪奢人的品味生活, 高級訂製服裝的製造過程及其相關產業的經濟歷史, 進而深思時尚便利與堅持獨特之間的購買意義. 這些慢工出細活的堅持熱情, 是對如今量產流行消費主義的反動, 因為應該提升的是我們的生活品質, 而非消費量.
讀著這本書, 我好似跟著作者旅行, 先去英國倫敦的全訂製店, 再去秘魯高原看原料出在羊身上的小羊駝, 然後是義大利佛羅倫斯的絲質襯裡, 法國巴黎的布商, 英國約克郡的布廠, 英國黑鄉的獸角鈕扣, 澳洲雪梨的雕花品牌及裁縫團隊, 最後到加拿大溫哥華的大衣主人家看完成品... 依大衣各個部分的來處與製作者見面, 探討其製作過程與堅持理念, 是不是很有意思呀?! (其中提到的秘魯高原和英國西約克郡的本寧山, Bradford地區, 都是我健行走過的地方, 特別覺得好熟悉!)
唯一可惜的是, 我覺得很多的敘述應該要有照片為佐, 許多製作過程(譬如說紡紗染布等), 若是有影片會更清楚! 雖然很享受文字的敘述, 但如果能把這本書寫的東西拍成一部紀錄片, 應該也會很好看!
書中批評現金社會喪失了對品味和品質的尊重, 城市裡大部分的人都穿得既不舒服, 又不好看, 也沒特色... 既使有錢人也一樣, 因為他們以為購買昂貴的東西就是好的. 作者祭出莎士比亞的話 - “穿著你所能負擔得起的最好衣裳, 質料應高貴, 切忌俗麗, 因為衣冠常代表其人.” 還用王爾德的說法連結服裝藝術美和世界的希望 - “人, 就算成不了藝術品, 也該穿一身藝術品... 在美麗事物中找到美麗意義的, 是有教養的人, 對這些人來說, 這世界還有希望.”
我其實懷疑作者是否被聘僱為這些書中的低調奢華品牌做宣傳打廣告, 因為書中大力推崇低調的全訂製業, 提到他們有著光榮的傳統, 持著 ”知道, 而不是炫耀” 的原則, 提供個人化的商品和服務, 以頂級的品質和專業的手藝, 強調剪裁合身, 穿起來典雅俐落, 不是光鮮亮麗, 而是新古典的簡樸風格. 他們的顧客對大眾一眼就認得出的精品名牌從不屑一顧, 因為人人可買, 處處可買, 也是量產供應的.
而那些及時生產系統製造的快速時尚, 利用行銷宣傳廣告公關, 吸引我們持續不斷地消費, 短期用過即丟的平價衣服就更糟了. 它們讓我們不再覺得自己購買的東西有多特別, 多有價值. 而且背後其實有看不見的環境污染代價及開發中國家的勞力血汗成本, 購買它們其實遠比我們想像的還要昂貴!
相反的, 手作技術所能提供的滿足感與實在感是慢活觀念下的產物, 5萬美元買的不只是衣服, 還有時間, 熱情, 專注, 投入, 與... 愛! (182頁講到織布工廠老闆摸著羊毛布, “流露出非常像是愛情一般的情緒”.) 而作者自己的省思是減少消費, 盡力修補破損衣物, 並出售不想要的衣物, 很斷捨離.
我自己不買名牌包, 買衣服很少看品牌, 因為身材沒什麼變, 許多20幾歲時穿的衣服到現在都還在... 我是絕對偏向梭羅那個向度的穿衣哲學: “舒服就好, 華麗不重要“. 5萬美元的大衣我買不下手, 這本書我是當作��記中的博物館展出作品來欣賞的!
總的來說, 這本書提供了一扇窗, 讓我一窺金字塔頂端那些豪奢人的品味生活, 高級訂製服裝的製造過程及其相關產業的經濟歷史, 進而深思時尚便利與堅持獨特之間的購買意義. 這些慢工出細活的堅持熱情, 是對如今量產流行消費主義的反動, 因為應該提升的是我們的生活品質, 而非消費量.
October 4, 2019
A really interesting read, although not exactly a gripping one. I read it over a period of months, each chapter being a largely self-contained episode where the author investigates a different aspect of what went into making different parts of the coat - the vicuna farmers, the silk maker of the lining, the button-making specialists, the weavers who made the raw wool into fabric, the merchant who sold the wool, the tailor, and so on.
There's a strange juxtaposition between the disgustingly wealthy (hard to feel any sympathy for) and the fact that their demand for luxury goods supports the livelihoods of all these niche artisans, people who've devoted their lives to mastering a skill (hard not to respect). A sense of things ending, a kind of sadness, weaves through the interviews with the artisans, all of whom are worried that their skills and commitment to craftsmanship will die with them.
Definitely makes one reflect on the value of things, and how sometimes cheapness comes at a price, whether that be to exploited human labourers, the environment, or the ultimate quality of the product. Though I think there's a whole heck of middle ground between the $50,000 coat and the world of slave-labour produced, throwaway fashion.
There's a strange juxtaposition between the disgustingly wealthy (hard to feel any sympathy for) and the fact that their demand for luxury goods supports the livelihoods of all these niche artisans, people who've devoted their lives to mastering a skill (hard not to respect). A sense of things ending, a kind of sadness, weaves through the interviews with the artisans, all of whom are worried that their skills and commitment to craftsmanship will die with them.
Definitely makes one reflect on the value of things, and how sometimes cheapness comes at a price, whether that be to exploited human labourers, the environment, or the ultimate quality of the product. Though I think there's a whole heck of middle ground between the $50,000 coat and the world of slave-labour produced, throwaway fashion.
November 29, 2022
Although not a non-fiction reader, I thoroughly enjoyed this. On reading of a hand-crafted, custom-made overcoat worth $50,000 the author sets out to trace the components that go into creating something so luxurious. We meet the 4th generation Sydney tailor who is commissioned to design such a masterpiece. He decides the coat should be the absolute antithesis of today’s penchant for disposable fashion and in so doing criss-crosses the globe seeking out only the best in natural materials for his vision. With the author we visit the source of all these remarkable elements, learning their history and a whole host of fascinating facts that lead us to understand what makes them so special including rare vicuna wool from the remote mountains of Peru; the silk patterns designed by Florentine Stefano Ricci; an esteemed French textile company; buttons of Indian buffalo horn; the fine work of master gold engravers. All the while we are left to ponder the question, can the art of bespoke tailoring which began in 17th century London survive today’s mass consumerism and our fast-paced, throw-away world? Anyone with an interest in the garment trade, artisan products, history or travel will enjoy this.
March 20, 2022
I put this on my wishlist following a recommendation on an embroidery newsletter, and was so glad that I did.
As would be expected from the title, the book is about a $50,000 coat made by John Cutler in Australia. The author visits the tailor, and, at the end, visits the coat. She also visits Peru, to see the Vicuna from which the cloth is made, goes to Saville Row, synonymous with bespoke tailoring to understand just what bespoke should mean, visits Italy, where the hand printed silk is made, the button factory and the mill, even the engraver who makes the gold tag for inside the pocket. She speaks to all the makers, who all seem incredibly generous with their time, and, starts to understand just why someone would want a bespoke item of clothing.
As well as meeting the individual craftspeople, the author also gives some history of the arts and trades. I learnt a lot, all of which was fascinating, including the section about how much could be engraved onto the head of a pin (more than you would think!).
I enjoyed this book so much and would recommend it to anyone with the slightest interest in textiles.
As would be expected from the title, the book is about a $50,000 coat made by John Cutler in Australia. The author visits the tailor, and, at the end, visits the coat. She also visits Peru, to see the Vicuna from which the cloth is made, goes to Saville Row, synonymous with bespoke tailoring to understand just what bespoke should mean, visits Italy, where the hand printed silk is made, the button factory and the mill, even the engraver who makes the gold tag for inside the pocket. She speaks to all the makers, who all seem incredibly generous with their time, and, starts to understand just why someone would want a bespoke item of clothing.
As well as meeting the individual craftspeople, the author also gives some history of the arts and trades. I learnt a lot, all of which was fascinating, including the section about how much could be engraved onto the head of a pin (more than you would think!).
I enjoyed this book so much and would recommend it to anyone with the slightest interest in textiles.
June 25, 2024
It is enough, sometimes, to just tell the story. Numerous ethical, cultural, economic and environmental issues are triggered here, but the narrative marches on. And it’s quite a narrative, tracking the history and practice of the various crafts that go into making an expensive, bespoke, Vicuña coat in the first decade of the 21st century.
The issues, including the author’s fleeting references to them, would make a great Book Club discussion. The book, however, stands on its own as a collection of accounts of various skilled crafts, their rise, fall, benefits and costs, their beauty and ugliness. I found it hard to put down. I love history told through a single lens, whether that be a dye, a garment, a discovery or a belief.
By tracing the background of the components of a luxury, entirely handmade coat, the author exposes, consciously or unconsciously, assumptions, beliefs, snobberies, tensions, obsessions, inequalities and values that are worthy of discussion. It is enough, however, that she has told the stories, linked into a coherent narrative of creation, and told them well.
I look forward to sharing it with fellow textile enthusiasts and continuing the narrative.
The issues, including the author’s fleeting references to them, would make a great Book Club discussion. The book, however, stands on its own as a collection of accounts of various skilled crafts, their rise, fall, benefits and costs, their beauty and ugliness. I found it hard to put down. I love history told through a single lens, whether that be a dye, a garment, a discovery or a belief.
By tracing the background of the components of a luxury, entirely handmade coat, the author exposes, consciously or unconsciously, assumptions, beliefs, snobberies, tensions, obsessions, inequalities and values that are worthy of discussion. It is enough, however, that she has told the stories, linked into a coherent narrative of creation, and told them well.
I look forward to sharing it with fellow textile enthusiasts and continuing the narrative.
March 1, 2023
An inside look into an insanely of expensive coat. In the early 2000s Keith Lambert needed a new overcoat to keep him warm and stylish during the Canadian winter. As a native Australian, he went to his tailor, John Cutler. John is a dying breed and bespoke tailoring is a dying art. Based in Sydney, John learned tailoring in London in the manner of the tailors on Savile Row.
Lukens Noonan takes the reader there (during Wool Week) to meet some of the tailors and to delve into the art and history of custom tailored clothing. Throughout the book, Meg travelled to Peru (vicunas), Florence (silk) , spinning mills in UK, to Paris (Dormeil, purveyors of fine cloth), among other fascinating places.
The book is brimming with history, the sound of shears cutting wool and cloth and the humming of camelids. Any reader interested in fashion, fiber, weaving, or the art of bespoke tailoring (slow fashion) will not be disappointed
Lukens Noonan takes the reader there (during Wool Week) to meet some of the tailors and to delve into the art and history of custom tailored clothing. Throughout the book, Meg travelled to Peru (vicunas), Florence (silk) , spinning mills in UK, to Paris (Dormeil, purveyors of fine cloth), among other fascinating places.
The book is brimming with history, the sound of shears cutting wool and cloth and the humming of camelids. Any reader interested in fashion, fiber, weaving, or the art of bespoke tailoring (slow fashion) will not be disappointed
September 10, 2018
A fascinating glimpse of the exclusive world of bespoke tailoring.
This is less about a rich man's fancy coat as more about the very specialized art of personalized tailoring. I loved how the author went through it step-by-step and allowed us to travel with her to many countries, on the trail - route - of a vicuna bespoke coat. I had a lot of fun reading this book as I build up boards on Pinterest to illustrate its main chapters. I discovered a lot of things about the textile industry and the specialized artisan arts connected to it, which are unfortunately struggling to find new blood to perpetuate.
Besides learning plenty of new things - such as what is a vicuna - this book has made me realize that I should put more care in choosing the quality of the clothes I wear even if it's so much easier to go with the flow of consumerism and disposal clothing.
This is less about a rich man's fancy coat as more about the very specialized art of personalized tailoring. I loved how the author went through it step-by-step and allowed us to travel with her to many countries, on the trail - route - of a vicuna bespoke coat. I had a lot of fun reading this book as I build up boards on Pinterest to illustrate its main chapters. I discovered a lot of things about the textile industry and the specialized artisan arts connected to it, which are unfortunately struggling to find new blood to perpetuate.
Besides learning plenty of new things - such as what is a vicuna - this book has made me realize that I should put more care in choosing the quality of the clothes I wear even if it's so much easier to go with the flow of consumerism and disposal clothing.
January 23, 2018
Oh dear. I didn't think I cared too much about 'designer' clothes. Well, I didn't. And I still don't. But now I want only bespoke items made just for me!
What a fabulous premise. Find out what an expensive (and that's an understatement) coat was made of, and follow everything to its source.
With a fantastically astute, and sensitive, portrayal of the people she meets along the way, Meg Lukens Noonan weaves the story of this incredible coat as carefully as the fibres were woven, and the buttons crafted, and the stitches stitched to make that very garment.
With backstories behind every little aspect of the coat's making, The Coat Route is like a mini library of stories. A delight to read.
What a fabulous premise. Find out what an expensive (and that's an understatement) coat was made of, and follow everything to its source.
With a fantastically astute, and sensitive, portrayal of the people she meets along the way, Meg Lukens Noonan weaves the story of this incredible coat as carefully as the fibres were woven, and the buttons crafted, and the stitches stitched to make that very garment.
With backstories behind every little aspect of the coat's making, The Coat Route is like a mini library of stories. A delight to read.
August 21, 2018
In a world of waste and fast fashion, this book reminds us that tailoring, like many arts, is a dying one. The author tells a compelling story of how things are made and highlights the many differences between handcrafted and mass produced. It's well written, and gives insight into a world most of us don't know about. A really great read for the most part, this book has two elements that made me question the author's character, taking some of the joy out of the story - one is the author's almost fawning attitude to big game hunting and the other her references to the didgeridoo being like an 'aural toothache'.
December 7, 2018
As someone who has taken up the challenge of learning to sew garments, I found this book to be an interesting exploration of the many aspects involved in the production of a garment.
There were points in the book where I grew tired of the glorification of wealthy people and their lifestyle. While I was reading this book, I was listening to Evicted, about the poor living in Milwaukee. That book was at times unbearably sad, but reading it served a greater goal of opening my eyes and making me more aware of the struggles endured by people around us.
There were points in the book where I grew tired of the glorification of wealthy people and their lifestyle. While I was reading this book, I was listening to Evicted, about the poor living in Milwaukee. That book was at times unbearably sad, but reading it served a greater goal of opening my eyes and making me more aware of the struggles endured by people around us.
July 30, 2017
I thought I would enjoy this book more than I actually did - while I was interested to learn of the artisans and processes involved in bespoke clothing - and the book was well researched - somehow the narrative just didn't capture my imagination and it wasn't a page tuner for me. I would like to see this as a TV documentary - maybe visualising the richness of the locations, people and resources would work better.
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