Upon arrival in the United Arab Emirates, especially Dubai and Abu Dhabi, one is overwhelmed by the scale, the opulence, and the sheer newness of almost everything. Dubai is the bustling commercial center, while the capital, Abu Dhabi, is still in full expansion. World famous museums (the Louvre, etc.), universities (the Sorbonne, NYU,..), and hospitals (the Cleveland Clinic among others) have opened branches here or are in the process of doing so. Meanwhile, the native Emirati population has become outnumbered (1 to 5, if I remember correctly) by expatriates from all over the world.
Planning to spend quite some time here this year, I went in search of background information at a local bookstore. There were the usual expat handbooks full of advice for newcomers. But the book I ended up buying, Mohammed Fahim's "From Rags to Riches," (available in 9 languages) promised to answer some of my deeper questions.
Subtitled "A Story of Abu Dhabi," this memoir, first published in 1995, does not purport to be a history book. Instead, the author sets out to narrate the story of his family and how he personally lived through the transformation of a desperately poor, tribal society into the oil-rich, hyper-modern nation of today.
Centering on Abu Dhabi, Fahim sketches the origins of its Sunni Muslim people who were forced out of a border area of Iran where they had settled, to eke out a meager living on what was then known as the Trucial Coast, an area supervised, if not outright colonized, by the British.
The Al Fahim family was, like many local folk, involved in pearl fishing, and his account of it will soon relieve you of any romantic notions you might harbor about this occupation. His father was one of the very few members of the family, and even the tribe, who became literate, and he passed on his love of learning to his children. In the late 1950s and early 60s, Fahim and his brother were among the first youngsters of the area sent to study in England, where they discovered countless wonders such as lawns, parks, and forests. The author came back with a determination to help bring his country into the present, at least on par with other Middle Eastern countries like Bahrain and Kuwait.
Oil was discovered relatively late in the Emirates, and the real boom did not happen here until the visionary leadership of Sheikh Zayed Al Nahyan (a lifelong friend of Fahim's father) resulted in the formation of the UAE federation in 1971.
Sheikh Zayed, a larger-than-life figure, decided to share the nation's riches with the whole population. People who never had two coins to rub together suddenly became rich. This at times resulted in situations reminiscent of the sad fate of some big-time lottery winners.
There were plenty of ups and downs along the way, both before and after the discovery of oil, and the author does a wonderful job in taking the reader along on the respective journeys of his nation, his family, and himself. At times I felt I was absorbed in a novel.
I thoroughly enjoyed the book and learned a lot from it. The author collaborated with Susan Macaulay to produce an eminently readable account, without, however, any literary or historical ambitions.
The book ends in 1995, which is already 21 years ago, and I would really love to read the story of the last twenty years as well, especially to find out how Abu Dhabi was able to ride out the worldwide banking and real estate crisis of 2008, and even succeeded in bailing out one of neighboring Dubai's expensive prestige projects, now known as the Burj Khalifa, after Abu Dhabi's present ruler, Sheikh Zayed's son Khalifa Bin Zayed al Nahyan.