Making Mavericks

by Frosty Hesson, Ian Spiegelman

West Coast surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares his remarkable life story, the story of his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty, and his advice on how to be the best.When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks.In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.”Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

Genres: Nonfiction, Biography, Sports, Memoir, Autobiography

314 pages, Kindle Edition

First published October 1, 2012

Reviews

[Jackie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I've watched "Chasing Mavericks" numerous times drawn not only to the story of Jay Moriarty and his mentor Frosty Hesson but also the incredible surfing scenes in Santa Cruz and at Mavericks in Half Moon Bay, both places I've known. The book naturally fleshes out the story of Frosty's life and his life principles along with the friendship between Jay and him. Jay was an exceptional person before Frosty but developed into a more incredible man after, a credit to both. If more people followed Frosty's life concepts the world would be a much better place.

"Some people will always tell you that what you are trying to accomplish is impossible; those people have no idea what they're talking about."
"It's always cool to be number one, to win, but if you're not improving on your own performance, winning is negated."
"If people didn't pass along what they've learned, we would never progress."
"It's easy to make a good athlete. It's very hard to make a good human being."

Simplistic, sometimes a bit preachy but always well intentioned. An incredible story of incredible men.

[Christopher Upton · Rating 4 out of 5]

Live Like Jay!!!

I feel in love with the story of Jay Moriarty from the movie “Chasing Mavericks” that is about his quest to surf the legendary surfing spot Mavericks. Jay’s view on life and the way he lived is inspiring and incredible. To see this through the eyes of his surfing teacher Frosty was eye opening. Frosty shared many of his life stories in this book and they all kinda explain the reasons and whys behind the way he taught surfing. However the way he teaches can be applied to life not just surfing which I think is why I found this book super interesting. I also thoroughly enjoyed hearing from Frosty talk about the struggles he faced during his life and how he overcame them. This book read like Frosty and I were on the back porch of a beach house in Cali having a conversation. For those of you who don’t know anything about Jay, I would truly recommend looking into him.

The world needs more Jays!!

P.S.) Adding Pipeline, Sunset Beach, Waimea Bay, and Mavericks all to my bucket list of places to visit.

[Helen Cooley · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting memoir if you are a surfer or admirer of extreme sports-people. I very much enjoyed surfing Mavericks vicariously through Frosty's account of his own experiences on this monster wave, and then through his coaching and mentoring of the up and coming surf star teenage Jay Moriarty. It's a good, readable story....its just not brilliantly written. Recommended for surfers ;-)

[Doug Stotland · Rating 4 out of 5]

After watching Chasing Mavericks so many times I couldn’t resist when I came across an autographed copy. The book is a joy to read and wraps up in a way that I found satisfying and surprisingly inspiring. This is Frosty’s memoir. He’s a waterman and he’s got a code that he feels strongly about; earnest and appealing person whose life I found interesting. I also loved reading about his surfing. I wish there was more of that and more on the landscape, the breaks and the culture along the coast in and around Santa Cruz. I’d have also enjoyed more about some of the local legends like Bob Pearson.

There’s less about Jay Moriarty in this book than the movie but there’s more about what happened between Mavs and his death. “Live like Jay” is a great mantra that got better reading this book.

[Aimee · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wow, what a great, unexpected memoir. I had no expectations coming into this, and while it took me a few chapters to really get into it, the life lessons and surf mentalities bleed through the page so seamlessly, I felt inspired. While I went into this book already knowing Jay Moriarty’s story, it hit me harder than I expected, and near the end, when the narrative moves to Jay’s passing, I felt my own mourning for someone taken too young. Def recommend for anyone interested or in the surfing community ❤️🌊

[Heather · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book....but it also helps that I am a brand new surfer, and I know, and live near the spots where the story took place. It's more than just a biography about Frosty and Jay..there are a lot of life lessons learned while sitting on a board, looking at the ocean, waiting for the wave to come.
I watched the movie the day after I finished this book. The movie didn't even compare to the book. Read the book.

[Kostas Stathakis · Rating 4 out of 5]

After seeing the film I decided to read the book upon which the film is rather loosely based. I loved the film and got the book in anticipation to read more about Jay Moriarty's life. The book did not deliver much on this part but it was a very good read regardless.

[Jennifer · Rating 3 out of 5]

Cenzo only wants to read books about surfing, so I picked up a few from the library. This was a quick read. I enjoyed the second half of the book which delved into the surf scene in Santa Cruz, especially surrounding Mavericks.

[Joe Lyons · Rating 3 out of 5]

A good memoir of Frosty Hesson’s life, from childhood through his relationship with Jay, up to the time of writing. Great wisdom from a man who’s lived a life of incredible highs and devastating lows. Not a bonafide “surf book”, but a good read regardless.

[Yancy Craft · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting enough for a read. Liked the movie so much I read the book, which of course is about 90% other stuff. Worth the time though. Do watch the movie though (Chasing Mavericks); I dont always say that either.

[Evan Whitlock · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5

Wow, Frosty had a wild and crazy life! I chose to read this after re-watching Chasing Mavericks, and I definitely enjoyed it. Even though the movie strayed quite a bit from the actual story, it was interesting. And there was more about Frosty, whereas the movie focuses mainly on Jay.

[Danny Schiff · Rating 4 out of 5]

Frosty Hesson shares his memoir of his life, centered around surfing Mavericks in the early days of the wave, and befriending/ mentoring Jay Moriarty as a young grom through his own days as a legend of Mavericks.

[Heather Gahres · Rating 5 out of 5]

A look at goal setting, visualization and the true meaning of coaching, all surrounded by the beach and surfing.

[pianogal · Rating 4 out of 5]

Perhaps not the best writing here, but the story was still enjoyable. Now I can't wait to watch the movie and see how they changed it.

[Sheila Pascoe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thoroughly enjoyed this book. Growing up and living in the Bay Area it was fun to read about familiar places. Interesting stories and motivating throughout.

[Mark Hillick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great read, throughly enjoyable. Lots of highs with some hard knocks.

[Shani · Rating 4 out of 5]

i knew how this would end but it still hurt. i think frost did a great job telling his story and then by default jays own. he does well to not let jays death over shadow anything. even when it does inevitably happen it’s still somehow about his life and the impact he had on surfing and others. i would read this again.

[Igor · Rating 5 out of 5]

Good story!

[Mike Hansen · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a must-read if you like the outdoor life.

[Nico Vacca · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great book about surfing and Jay Moriarty’s life. Frosty tells the story so well.

[Jack Teoli · Rating 5 out of 5]

Would I recommend? Yes
Was it worth reading? Yes
Would I read again? Yes

[Lauren L · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read Making Mavericks, written by Frosty Hesson. Frosty wrote the book as a mix of an autobiography and a tribute to Jay Moriarity, a fellow surfer and exceptional friend. Frosty Hesson is best know as Jay's mentor, and throughout the book Frosty splices in sentences written in italics that are pieces of advice he gave Jay and is now passing on to the reader. Jay and Frosty are both real people, so the amazing story of Jay becoming such a great surfer as just a young teenager is even more enticing because it is true. Chasing Mavericks is a movie also based on the story of Jay and Frosty. I saw the movie before reading the book and I would not recommend doing so in this order. The movie is entertaining, but it certainly utilizes the literary license a bit too much. The movie is also much more focused on the story of Jay, whereas the book divulges more into Frosty's rocky childhood and upbringing before the reader even meets Jay. The book is split up into seven parts. The first four are all about Frosty, who started surfing in California in 1963. He starts out as a young boy and grows into a man as the first two thirds of the book progress. It is interesting to see how Frosty matured and how his love for the outdoors and surfing drove his every move in life. When you meet Jay, a young, ambitious, and charismatic teenager, it is difficult not to be almost taken aback at how similar Jay and Frosty are. Frosty has had a tough go, he has been divorced and remarried. He lost both his parents at a young age. Jay's father left him and his alcoholic mother, so naturally Frosty seamlessly fills the role of a fatherly figure in Jay's life. But their relationship stretches much farther than just father to son. They truly become the best of friends. Frosty has too kids of his own when his wife dies of a stroke, and Jay is a key figure in helping Frosty recover from this tragedy. Jay even acts as an older brother to Frosty's younger kids. Both Jay and Frosty are very likable people. They are huge supporters of their surf community and are constantly striving to help younger surfers learn the ropes. Though the book takes the reader through Frosty's life, it is also structured around the surfing phenomenon of Mavericks, the wave break in Half-moon bay California. Jay is striving to be able to surf Mavericks and Frosty helps him achieve this hefty goal. Jay still has records as a surfer that are unbroken.
The book is written in first person, and gives Frosty's upbeat perspective on life. Frosty though is known as a surfer not a writer, so although the story is engaging and inspiring, the writing is not exceptional. After Frosty's wife passes away, the change of the tone in the book is dramatic. Frosty, usually full of compliments and advice is dark and cold. He losses sight of what he wants in the world and become engrossed in the unfairness of life. Jay pulls him out of his slump and helps him get back on his feet after such a harsh and unexpected takedown. The book ends with Jay's death. At only twenty-two, Jay drowned while free diving in the Maldives. It was so sudden, both in the book and in real life. Frosty though had been so touched by Jay and his attitude, that he attempted to end the book on a positive note even though Jay's death was such a negative event. After three-hundred packed pages of Frosty's life of adventure, it was hard to comprehend the death of his younger self. Frosty's tone is sad at the end of the book, but he obviously wants the mood of the reader to be somewhat happy about the life that Jay lived. He ends the book with his last piece of italic advice. Three words that perfectly sum up the message the Frosty wanted to convey. Live like Jay. In the epilogue, Frosty has an accumulation of all of his italic tips spanning over three pages. The story of Jay and Frosty is inspiring, and the way that Frosty gives life advice to the reader just like he did to Jay is the perfect close to a melancholy book. It reflects the themes of dealing with tragedy, gaining self-esteem, achieving your goal, and growing up because in order to do all these things, you need advice and Frosty was there to give some of his.

[Nika Biernacka · Rating 5 out of 5]

After I watched the film I immediately knew I have to read this book. In fact I bought it in the middle of the night right after the movie ended. I thought it would be the exact same story as in ‘Chasing Mavericks’ but was pleasantly surprised. The book focuses mostly about Frosty and considering how smart, competent and well informed he is I’m glad it is written the way it is (also he’s the author so it was kind of a logical thing to do). What I loved the most were the essential advices he gave throughout the book and collected at the end. They are so powerful and apply to surfing as well to other sports and aspects of life. It’s a book that I‘ll be coming back to for sure.

[Jason · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a quick AND really fantastic read. I did see the movie first and was inspired to read this book to learn more about about Frosty and Jay.

In this book it is by Frosty and I enjoyed learning about his back story and growing up in northern california during the 60/70's era.
No doubt he had some struggles and a lot of hardships throughtout his lifetime but yet he stayed positive and kept going. Very inspirational. I hope the rest of Frosty's life turns out easier for him and his family.

For the most part the movie stays true to the book but of course there were differences captured for the movie I guess to make it better story line for the viewing experieince.

It was amazing to learn what an outstanding surf community that Frosty and Jay live(d) in. Everyone loving and supporting each other. The BBQs and get togethers.. The overwhelming support when Jay passed. It was beautiful. Makes you wish you could be part of it.

[Charlotte · Rating 5 out of 5]

My family has known Frosty and his family for a very, very long time, which made reading this book all the more enjoyable. While I know Frosty and his family, and had never gotten the opportunity to meet Jay, and I always felt that he was a monumental piece in the story that, sadly, I was missing. Reading this book finally gave me the opportunity to learn about Jay, which I am very thankful for.
I also loved the way this book is written! It is incredibly reader-friendly, and really reflects the way that Frosty would tell the story. Through the way the book is written, I can completely imagine him telling this story.
Overall, I loved this book, and would highly recommend it. It was truly moving, and I very much enjoyed reading every word.

[Garrett · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is a great read for any athlete out there. It really goes in-depth into how much goes into any sport you are trying to be great at. Frost does an amazing job at explaining every detail of how everything went, without going into so much detail that he is just explaining pointless things just to add more words. I have personally read this book a couple of times, mainly because it is such a great "pace" as I should say, meaning it doesn't get boring. Just putting it out there, I am in high school so saying this is a good book actually means a lot, it never gets boring and is great for any ages.

[Claire Colbert · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you want to grow in any aspect of your life, you need to read this book. This is technically not a self help book, but I count it as one. I have become a better person because of this book and learned more than what I thought was possible. I had grown up watching the movie made after this book, so I knew some back story and I always looked at Jay as an inspiration. The more I learned about Frosty, the more I developed as a human being. Frosty is such an amazing role model and inspiration. This book has so many notes I put in it, highlighter marks, and post it notes. I 10/10 recommend this book.

[Kathy Ellen Davis · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow.
I loved this book.
Living in Pleasure Point, it's hard NOT to know the story of Jay,
especially because we all went to see the movie, and surf ourselves.
But Frosty's story is equally epic.

I love all the tidbits of advice he peppers in along the way.
I got to meet him and devoured this book!

Check it out!

[Jodie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Probably in my top 5 best books I've ever read. I absolutely loved it. It is truly inspiring and really just makes you want to a better person. I finished it quickly and I wish there was more. The story itself is great but there is so much more to take away from the book. I can't rate it high enough.

[ALFRED Morales · Rating 5 out of 5]

Words to live by, just not for surfers, but for everyone. In life, everyone goes through struggles and hardship, but it is what we do in the midst of turmoil that define who we really are. Make friends, be active in your communities, be the good human being that you know you should be. And most importantly, Live Like Jay.