Everything that was wrong with the last Izukaya cookbook I just read, is RIGHT with this one. So very, very right.
A small, but deliberate variety, of real life pubs in Japan explained, explored, and consumed: from origin to ambience.
Utterly authentic and yet written with a foreigner's point of view (who clearly has a deep appreciation of the culture). The opening paragraphs have to pull you in or you have no business reading this book. I say that as a shameless visual reader who often skips text until last.
It is perfectly organized, the recipes are all likely something you could do at home, look DELICIOUS, as well as being well organized AND beautifully photographed. I've enjoyed Japanese cuisine for a long time and still came across new information and ingredients. I appreciate that despite how many pages contain photos and recipes, there is still time for a glossary. And oh yes, the liquor is also discussed (again, unlike the last book on this topic). Sake. Beer. Shochu. And things in between.
This book has no pretense and yet is all class; easy to read; the author's voice is smooth and evocative, without ever being crass or over-the-top. If anything, like myself, perhaps he is overly sentimental. But then...that was something I always enjoyed about Japanese culture (even in their comic books). Everything is explained, nothing is deliberately taken for granted or glossed over, though you're also never spoken down to, or feel as if the author brags. It is much more like you're allowed to accompany them, from laughing women to serious chefs, and worn out shoes left at the doorway -- it's like you are there.
Don't miss the story behind simple sliced tomatoes with salt.
Challenge yourself to find some of the more authentic ingredients online; try a new flavor, if possible.
Does celery really match with squid? I wonder...
Can you REALLY eat the scales of "tile fish"??
And what would the world be without little clams in miso soup or mashed potato salad?
But who would've expected to find German Bratkartoffeln in Japan? mit soy sauce!
This is what I'm talking about.
The photos remind me of the sort of comfortable, yet precise images that often draw me to Japanese books and magazines which I cannot completely read but purchase for the emotion and information contained in pictures alone. I've learned much staring at only the images in Japanese media, what a treat to finally be able to not only be able to read every word that accompanies them, but to be able to SAVOR that experience as much as a person might with food. The colors reflect the night with lush sepias and near candlelight settings, as it should be. No one is touched up or staged, and yet the light always manages to be flattering to faces and food. Earnest.
My bonus points to an already perfect book, go toward the little touches, images we don't "really" need like a patron's personal sake jug with an sharpie drawn illustration on it. Or the darling, yet accurate, sketch of a cramped & typical izukaya kitchen -- what's more, juxtaposed by a true salary man wandering the barely lit neon alleys that contain them. I'm familiar enough with Japanese culture to know the authenticity presented here, but enough of a gaikoku to still revel in the newness of nuances.