This autobiography by the first American to climb Mt Everest was thorough in detailing a fascinating life and revealing enough to show evidence of self -absorption and the need to settle old scores, even occasionally with his twin brother Lou.
I enjoyed reading his early chapters about growing up in Seattle and how he and Lou were introduced to mountain climbing and skiing, how he started working at REI as its first time employee, and his early years as a husband and parent.
The chapters on Everest are fascinating. This includes the planning which originally included Lou, his description of finding out from Lou's friends that Lou decided not to go shows how it still rankled him when he wrote this book in 1999. I appreciated the pages on the logistics and the trek to base camp and the personal dynamics including the decision that he and Nawang Gombu would jointly be the first to summit. I did not fully realize until reading this book that another American from the same expedition summitted Everest just a few days later from a different route(without earning nearly the same fame)
The Everest fame led to Whittaker being included in the Kennedy clan in the years between the JFK and RFK assassinations and Whittaker provides a fresh perspective on the Kennedy family and style. His description of he and Robert Kennedy being the first to summit newly named Mt Kennedy in the remote Canadian Rockies which was both technically and physically challenging shows Kennedy at his competitive best and a bemused Whittaker recalls letters and theories that Kennedy somehow faked the summit. Whittaker tells of his work for RFK's Presidential campaign, especially in the Oregon primary where Whittaker was bedeviled by Oregonians who said they were voting for Gene McCarthy because of Kennedy's stand on gun control.
Other chapters detail Whittaker's work with REI as it grew from a one employee coop in a Seattle building. Whittaker oversaw much of its growth and his writing shows he still has pride in REI while he settles some scores while telling of his departure, complaining that the REI board did not fully appreciate the value of his climbing and fame. His self absorption does not allow him to discuss any consideration of the downside of a CEO being away from a fast growing, large business for such long times
Likewise, his telling of the events leading to his divorce show while emotionally revealing, do not really account for his role, surely his fame, his long absences from the family to climb and spend time with the Kennedys had to have been a factor. His later description of his romance with his eventual wife Diane Roberts was somewhat off putting.
The chapters on the attempted summit of K2 were compelling and did a good job in showing the tensions within the climbing group including resentment about the women, especially his wife Diane. Again, I feel like we did not get the full story. It is understandable in memoir to present your viewpoint but when an author calls out others by name for blatant and unfair sexism it would seem fair to consider other possibilities such as the extent of her climbing background.
The chapter on the peace climb of Everest (where Whittaker served as leader but did not summit)is a highlight of the book. Whittaker's leadership and diplomacy skills of putting together an expedition of Russian, Chines and American climbers to summit from the China approach were as important as his mountaineering skills.
Whittaker writes honestly how he lost most of his money later in his career after he left REI through his trusting a business partner who embezzled Whittaker's money and exposed Whittaker to making good on company loans that he could not repay. There is an interesting appearance by Tom Wales, an assistant US Attorney who prosecuted the business partner. Whittaker was bitter about the sweet plea that did not provide for any jail time and did not ensure payment of restitution and names Wales in this memoir. Just two years after the memoir Wales was murdered, most likely by someone he was investigating or prosecuting. As I read that I wondered if Whittaker would acknowledge that event in his update in this anniversary edition
All in all, this was a compelling book about a compelling man, albeit with warts like the rest of us that is well worth the read