Creating a Common Table in Twentieth-Century Argentina: Doña Petrona, Women, and Food

by Rebekah E. Pite

Dona Petrona C. de Gandulfo (c. 1896-1992) reigned as Argentina's preeminent domestic and culinary expert from the 1930s through the 1980s. An enduring culinary icon thanks to her magazine columns, radio programs, and television shows, she was likely second only to Eva Peron in terms of the fame she enjoyed and the adulation she received. Her cookbook garnered tremendous popularity, becoming one of the three best-selling books in Argentina. Dona Petrona capitalized on and contributed to the growing appreciation for women's domestic roles as the Argentine economy expanded and fell into periodic crises. Drawing on a wide range of materials, including her own interviews with Dona Petrona's inner circle and with everyday women and men, Rebekah E. Pite provides a lively social history of twentieth-century Argentina, as exemplified through the fascinating story of Dona Petrona and the homemakers to whom she dedicated her career.
Pite's narrative illuminates the important role of food--its consumption, preparation, and production--in daily life, class formation, and national identity. By connecting issues of gender, domestic work, and economic development, Pite brings into focus the critical importance of women's roles as consumers, cooks, and community builders.

342 pages, Paperback

First published March 1, 2013

Reviews

[chris eckman]

A wonderfully informative and engaging book that centers an important figure in Argentine history in the 20th century. Dona Petrona's influence on the country and, specifically, "la vida domestica" still resonates to this day. However, Dr. Pite extends this argument to show how Petrona successfully navigated the politics and economics of the time. A worthwhile read about a history that not many people know or understand outside of Argentina, which provides a greater and deeper understanding of this fascinating country.

[Lindalea P.]

I have always enjoyed food and I'm drawn to Latin culture and Argentina in particular and it's always interesting to learn about strong women who have overcome the odds to survive and make an impact. What Pite does well is weave recipes, pictures and culture of 20th century Argentina together for an inside look at cultural history. I think the book would be an excellent choice for a non-fiction book club. There's a lot to talk about!

[Jayden Lindgren]

I had to read this for a history class. While the book was good and Dona Petrona story is good. I found the book quite underwhelming and there is other aspects of Argentina’s history during this time that should be explored. Much of the story was Petrona purposely dodging politics in Argentina while knowing she had a huge platform.

[Robin Martinez]

I met Rebekah at a Latin American History Conference in 2014, and her presentation on this book made me want to read it. The book was very interesting, and I learned a lot from reading it, but a little more "scholarly" than I had anticipated, which was my own failing in reading it.

[Darby]

Read this book while thinking about Esquivel's Like Water For Chocolate, which offered a lot of insight on the treatment of food and gender roles within twentieth century Latin America.

I really enjoyed Pite's thorough examination of the shifting states of women within Argentine society throughout the twentieth century, especially through the lens of Doña Petrona's culinary pursuits. I think, though, that she could have further examined the differences in Doña Petrona's person and her created persona for the greater population of Argentina, and I would have liked to hear her thoughts on how that difference affects the women of Argentina (both contemporarily and currently). Pite nods towards this idea, but I would have liked to see her go more in depth.

Also, I ordered my book from Amazon and realized that it is a signed copy by the author! Probably the most exciting portion of reading this book.