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624 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1991
Least Heat-Moon is a magician. How anybody could take a county in Kansas and turn it into a fascinating, edifying, educating read is beyond me. But he did. You don't have to look far to get the feel that this book is a work of art. The cover itself is gorgeous. I remember reading the book gingerly because to damage the binding by opening it too wide would be tantamount to desecrating high art.
There's really no way to classify this book. It is part travelogue. Part interviews. Part anthology (collecting the views of other authors and public figures). Part United States history lesson. But wholly fascinating.
Least Heat-Moon lets you in on his personal journey as well. Here he struggles with a prolonged bout of writer's block:
"A couple of weeks ago, I was having even more trouble writing another chapter. Then the July heat broke and I opened the windows, a cool northwesterly blew through, ruffling my paper, and I was sitting before the unmarked, lined page, and two hours disappeared in staring and listening to the singing birds; invigorated by the coolness, now I couldn't blame my trouble on the weather. Among the several different bird voices, I became aware that one came from a red-tailed hawk. I couldn't see it but for some time heard its high rasping. It was circling close. During the next hour the blank page began to fill, words being called up, lured out, duped into revealing themselves: I, starving, hovered and dropped onto them as they were plump voles"
And the other writers and figures he quotes are just as elegant. From the short quote:
"Phenomena intersect; to see but one is to see nothing." --Victor Hugo
To the long:
The coyote is a long, slim, sick and sorry-looking skeleton, with a gray wolfskin stretched over it, a tolerably bushy tail that forever sags down with a despairing expression of forsakenness and misery, a furtive and evil eye, and a long, sharp face, with slightly lifted lip and exposed teeth. He has a general slinking expression all over. The coyote is a living, breathing allegory of Want. He is always hungry. He is always poor, out of luck, and friendless. The meanest creatures despise him, and even the fleas would desert him for a velocipede. He is so spiritless and cowardly that even while his exposed teeth are pretending a threat, the rest of his face is apologizing for it. And he is so homely!--so scrawny, and ribby, and coarse-haired, and pitiful. When he sees you he lifts his lip and lets a flash of his teeth out, and then turns a little out of the course he was pursuing, depresses his head a bit, and strikes a long, soft-footed trot through the sagebrush, glancing over his shoulder at you from time to time, till he is about out of easy pistol range, and then he stops and takes a deliberate survey of you; he will trot fifty yards and stop again--another fifty and stop again; and finally the gray of his gliding body blends with the gray of the sagebrush, and he disappears. All this is when you make no demonstration against him; but if you do, he develops a livelier interest in his journey, and instantly electrifies his heels and puts such a deal of real estate between himself and your weapon that by the time you have raised the hammer you see that you need a rifle, and by the time you have got him in line you need a rifled cannon, and by the time you have "drawn a bead" on him you see well enough that nothing but an unusually long-winded streak of lightning could reach him where he is now." --Mark Twain
PrairyErth is a big book, not in vogue with today's hurried lifestyles. To really savor it, you'll have to take your time reading it. Maybe that's the idea. And maybe that's how Least Heat-Moon wrote it and intended it to be read. He writes:
"What I cherish I've come to slowly, usually blindly, not seeing it for some time..."
His book is proof that he cherishes this patch of PrairyErth in Kansas.