A Place of Meadows and Tall Trees is a lyrical and insightful evocation of the trials of the first Welsh Patagonian colonists as they battle to survive hunger, loss, and each other. Impoverished and oppressed, they'd been promised paradise on a land flowing with milk and honey. But what the settlers found after a devastating sea journey was a cold South American desert where nothing could survive except tribes of nomadic Tehuelche Indians, possibly intent on massacring them. Silas James fears he has been tricked into sacrificing everything he loves for another man's impossible dream. But despite his hatred of the politically adept Edwyn Owen, and under the watchful eye of Indian shaman Yelue, a new culture takes root as an old one passes away.
Clare Dudman was born in North Wales. She has a PhD in Chemistry and has worked as a postdoctoral Research Associate in UMIST, a development scientist in industry, a science teacher, a lecturer and as a creative writing tutor for the WEA and the MA in creative writing at University College Chester. She is a member of the Welsh Academy.
The Patagonia region of Argentina is nearly desolate, even today. Extremes of weather, especially of wind, and the fierce dry cold make it virtually uninhabitable. Yet this is the location of a new colony of people, who left North Wales in 1850, and made to believe they could settle it and live in a peaceful, religious community. Poverty, violence, and debt made these people eager to leave and start over, and a charismatic leader, Edwyn Lloyd, assures all of them that this new world waits for them with abundant wealth.
"so much has been stolen from us-our land, our language, our culture! But soon we shall endure no more. Soon you will see our promised land....Cattle! Trees. A splendid river. And grass- oh you should see it-mile upon mile of the most verdant pasture....A place where God's law shows us the way!"
Many make the long journey by boat, and several die on board from illness and lack of food. Where they end up is far from verdant and lovely. The hard and unforgiving landscape immediately places the settlers in danger, and discord breaks out between them Additionally, Edwyn finds the going so rough that he disappears as well (although he returns later). Reports of violent local Indians scare the Welsh visitors, and they are abandoned to nothing, with no communication or supplies.
Death is frequent, as are squabbles over power and leadership. This story focuses mostly on men in distress. While the women care for the children and domestic matters, the men try to figure out how to create this new society. By virtue of this, the men are actually the most interesting of the characters.
First is Silas, who lost one child on the journey and another upon arrival. He remains in the background during the fights over control. He's strong and opinionated, but his strength is in observing the nature of the other men. It is Silas who manages to create a relationship with an aging Indian who approaches them. His brother-in-law, Jacob, however, is far less wise. He craves attention and desperately wants to lead, despite his lack of experience and disinterest in realism. He's so blinded by his religious belief that they are destined to make this society work, that he feels no need to participate in actually doing the work. He's a weak and pathetic man. Selwyn, a Welsh man who spent time in Wisconsin, is more realistic and cynical towards the situation. He and Silas appear almost as an alliance in order to keep the others calm and avoid violence, since many of the newcomers think they can take on the Indians themselves. The themes of power, respect, and racial superiority are explored in a fast paced and unpredictable narrative.
I enjoyed this book, especially the descriptions of the flora and fauna of Patagonia. I actually Googled some of the locations just to visualize the scenery. I think the men were well defined and their actions were realistic. However, the women in the story seemed more stereotypical; some were actually panicky and delicate and hysterical. The imbalance isn't total: there are some strong women. They just aren't as fleshed out as the men. What was frustrating in the reading was the singular belief in the superiority of their race over the indigenous peoples, a reality that is as likely as it is unfortunate.
However, in all, this is an excellent story with a premise and delivery unlike anything I've recently read.
If you set out - as Clare Dudman did - to write a book about Welsh people colonising a place at almost the opposite end of the earth, in the mid-nineteenth century, then I think you'd be pretty happy with this as the end product. To some extent the story is mundane, in that many people did similar things (some successful, many not). But Dudman manages to overcome the banality of a struggle to survive and to enliven it into a moving tale of disappointments, losses and very occasional successes.
My interest in the Patagonian Welsh was first raised many years ago by Bruce Chatwin (and probably the same happened with some other readers of this book). By all accounts, Dudman's fiction is more accurate about the past history of the community than Chatwin's seemingly factual record was about the near-present. Dudman captures well the personalities and relationships that are probably a fair reflection of those the original settlers actually brought with them, although she doesn't have Chatwin's talent for describing the landscape.
Both books, though, give me a desire to visit the Chubut valley one day.
DISCLAIMER: The author is a friend of mine, so you may worry that my praise of her book is due to bias, whether conscious or unconscious. The latter may be the case, of course, but I'd invite you to read her book yourself to see if my high opinion is justified. I can only repeat the conversation I had with my eight-year-old daughter the other day:
"This is Clare's book. She's a really, really good writer." "Then why does she talk to *you*?"
I think it's because I'm lucky. -----
It was clear to Silas, at least, from the start: the New Wales they'd been promised in Patagonia was a fiction. The other colonists were more apt to be persuaded by their charismatic leader's claims, whatever the evidence of their own eyes. Edwyn Lloyd promised them lush meadows and tall trees, a future for their families and for Welsh culture in South America. What they got was a desert.
Clare Dudman's 2010 novel A Place of Meadows and Tall Trees tells the story of the Welsh colonization of Patagonia in the 19th century. Her work is fiction, but it's based on real-life events, and several of her characters are fleshed out from what little is known of the early settlers. Dudman's focus is on Silas James and his wife Megan, who endure more as a result of their emigration than most of the colonists. Their story is in fact almost unendurably sad, so that one wants to tell the author to stop heaping sorrows on these poor people, but it's not her fault: their tragedies were in fact suffered by their real-life counterparts, Aaron and Rachel Jenkins, who sailed to Patagonia with the first group of settlers in 1865.
The villain of Dudman's story is Edwyn Lloyd, who holds sway over the colonists longer than he should because of his fiery oratory. He's a man with a vision and, it seems, limited conscience, a snake whose arrival on the scene usually signals further trouble. But one of the best moments for me in the book is about 40 pages from the end, when Edwyn for once stands out as a voice of reason and we see at once how complex his character and his relationship with Silas are.
An important part of the colonists' experience in Patagonia relates to the local Indian tribes, nomads who follow the migration of the llama-like guanaco. Part of Dudman's story is told from the point of view of an Indian shaman, Yeluc, who is the first native to make contact with the settlers. Through Yeluc we see that the experience of the soon-to-be-displaced Indians parallels to an extent that of the Welsh, who have left their homes in part to preserve their culture in the face of suppression by the English.
A Place of Meadows and Tall Trees is beautifully written and powerful. Also surprising: going into it I already knew more or less what it would be about, yet I was still caught off-guard repeatedly at how the author chose to tell the story. That it's a beautiful read, however, did not come as a surprise. I expected nothing less from the author of One Day the Ice Will Reveal All Its Dead.
This isn’t my usual kind of read. It’s got no supernatural element, no mystery to investigate and no rock n’ roll. In fact, being based upon the true story of 19th century Welsh settlers in Patagonia, it’s only partly fiction. I was doubly pleased, therefore, that I enjoyed this book as much as I did and found it so memorable and moving.
I think one of the reasons I enjoyed it so much was the sheer quality of the writing. The story is, to be honest, as unremittingly bleak as the inhospitable ‘promised land’ that the colonists struggle to sail to. That I found the trials and suffering of the characters quite as upsetting as I did is certainly down to the author’s skill in characterisation: she makes you care about these people. It’s not an easy read. At times you find yourself almost shouting ‘no!’ at the page as disaster following disaster befalls the families you have got to know. It’s all the more terrible for realising that these are based on real people, researched with a commitment and thorough eye for detail that I don’t think many other authors could equal. But what is notable about this book is that for every low there is a high – the settlers never back down and that’s what makes this above all a book about the triumph of the human spirit. Families literally battle to stay together and fulfil their dream. From their trials a new way of life, alongside the native Tehuelche tribes, is forged.
A beautifully written book that would appeal equally to fans of drama, history or character-driven pieces.
What did I like? I felt educated. I’ve long known about the Welsh settlement in Patagonia, being as I am a member of the North Walian diaspora. I knew vaguely of the stories of English oppression leading to the migration. However, I did not know about the chicanery that led to many migrating under false illusion of what they would find, nor the charismatic Christian obsession with protecting the Welshness at all costs. A fanaticism with describing all the disasters that befall them as a privilege from God…
Which brings me onto what I didn’t like… it’s unrelentingly miserable. Probably accurately so, but to feel despair requires feeling hope and happiness, which is not drawn effectively. The text feels very neatly written and there are some touches of intellect, including the magical realism in the encounters with the indigenous tribesmen and women. However, there is little flair and indeed I thought on reading it that it is an accomplished debut but the author needs to develop dramatic contrast. It turns out, it’s not a debut and maybe this writer has found her limits. As a result, even in the face of great tragedy I was left feeling nonplussed with little emotional engagement. I’m moved to research the area more, but I’m uninterested in much of the characterisation in the book.
This is a good book. It is not an exciting book but it is an engrossing book. It sticks to the facts and doesn’t exaggerate them for effect. That said there were opportunities to maximise on factual events that maybe Clare didn’t capitalise on but I feel the book’s strength lies in its portrayal of real people. In an e-mail to me she wrote that she “wanted to use this story to say something about the condition of being human” and it does. It focuses on identity, national identity on the surface, but once you start to dig a little deeper there are other identities under the microscope here and the old Indian Yeluc provides an excellent sounding board, not that he doesn’t have his own identity issues which he deals with in his own way. I grew rather fond of old Yeluc and would have liked more of him.
Dudman does it again. Each of her books is so different from the others, but bound by her care and quality of writing. I feel like I've been educated as well as being entertained. I feel like I've actually spent a bit of time in that time and place, so carefully and believably has Dudman crafted her story. Not much actually happens - other than the enormity of a small group of people struggling within and without to survive, to exist, to find their place in the world, and in themselves. What more can you ask for from a novel?!
On reflection, I feel quite dissatisfied with this book. The characters are bursting with potential but they feel as if they're charicatures - drawing only what's on the surface. The ending feels as limp as the crops that failed to grow in the harsh Patagonian climate. The morning after I finished it, I'm wondering what it was all about.
I found this book quite hard going at first. However it did get better as I read further on in the story. I felt sorry for the pioneers who I felt had been betrayed and lost so much!!!
It's not a book I would read again. I believe there was something missing. It just did not grab me like others I have read.
The background research she does, along with her writing, can bring the most random settings to life. This time, Welsh colonists in Patagonia. She stays on my must-read list!