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The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity
The author of The Soul of a Chef looks at the new role of the chef in contemporary culture
For his previous explorations into the restaurant kitchen and the men and women who call it home, Michael Ruhlman has been described by Anthony Bourdain as "the greatest living writer on the subject of chefs, and on the business of preparing food." In The Reach of a Chef , Ruhlman examines the profound shift in American culture that has raised restaurant cooking to the level of performance art and the status of the chef to celebrity CEO. Bibliophiles and foodies alike will savor this intimate meeting with some of the most famous chefs in the kitchens of the hottest restaurants in the world.
For his previous explorations into the restaurant kitchen and the men and women who call it home, Michael Ruhlman has been described by Anthony Bourdain as "the greatest living writer on the subject of chefs, and on the business of preparing food." In The Reach of a Chef , Ruhlman examines the profound shift in American culture that has raised restaurant cooking to the level of performance art and the status of the chef to celebrity CEO. Bibliophiles and foodies alike will savor this intimate meeting with some of the most famous chefs in the kitchens of the hottest restaurants in the world.
352 pages, Paperback
First published May 1, 2006
42 people are currently reading
1405 people want to read
About the author
Michael Ruhlman
45 books356 followersMichael Ruhlman (born 1963 in Cleveland, Ohio) is an American writer. He is the author of 11 books, and is best known for his work about and in collaboration with American chefs, as well as other works of non-fiction.
Ruhlman grew up in Cleveland and was educated at University School (a private boys' day school in Cleveland) and at Duke University, graduating from the latter in 1985. He worked a series of odd jobs (including briefly at the New York Times) and traveled before returning to his hometown in 1991 to work for a local magazine.
While working at the magazine, Ruhlman wrote an article about his old high school and its new headmaster, which he expanded into his first book, Boys Themselves: A Return to Single-Sex Education (1996).
For his second book, The Making of a Chef (1997), Ruhlman enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, completing the course, to produce a first-person account -- of the techniques, personalities, and mindsets -- of culinary education at the prestigious chef's school. The success of this book produced two follow-ups, The Soul of a Chef (2000) and The Reach of a Chef (2006).
Ruhlman grew up in Cleveland and was educated at University School (a private boys' day school in Cleveland) and at Duke University, graduating from the latter in 1985. He worked a series of odd jobs (including briefly at the New York Times) and traveled before returning to his hometown in 1991 to work for a local magazine.
While working at the magazine, Ruhlman wrote an article about his old high school and its new headmaster, which he expanded into his first book, Boys Themselves: A Return to Single-Sex Education (1996).
For his second book, The Making of a Chef (1997), Ruhlman enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, completing the course, to produce a first-person account -- of the techniques, personalities, and mindsets -- of culinary education at the prestigious chef's school. The success of this book produced two follow-ups, The Soul of a Chef (2000) and The Reach of a Chef (2006).
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June 17, 2012
The other day, I came across this paragraph from Michael Ruhlman’s “The Reach of a Chef”:
“The work is hard; no one’s forcing you to be here. If you don’t like it, leave. If it’s too hard, if you can’t do it, we’ll find someone who can — nothing personal — but service starts at 5:30 and there’s a lot to do.” (p.119)
It gave me pause because it made me realize that this applied to every work environment and not just a restaurant kitchen.
I know it’s a little unrealistic to compare a restaurant kitchen to any other type of work environment, but I can’t help but think that, if you operated in a place where everyone was as driven, disciplined and passionate about their craft as really good chefs in high-caliber restaurants are, then maybe you’d be able to achieve greater heights.
I read Ruhlman’s “The Making of a Chef” — which I thought was a fabulous look at the Culinary Institute of America — but I enjoyed “The Reach of a Chef” even more.
If you’re like me, you probably picked up this book because you watch way too much of the Food Network and you probably know of most of the key players in the industry; here, you visit Grant Achatz’s kitchen pre-Alinea and pre-cancer; you catch glimpses of Frank Bruni when he was just embarking on his stint as the New York Times’ powerful food critic; you read email exchanges between Ruhlman and his frenemy, Anthony Bourdain; and you revisit the CIA in a time where people, seduced by what they see on the Food Network, pursue their passion of food not in the hopes of becoming a master chef, but rather, to become a celebrity chef.
To be honest, I used to hate the Food Network’s “Next Star” series — mostly because, in a couple of instances, you had people with zero restaurant cooking experience winding up with shows. No offense to Melissa d’Arabian, the stay-at-home mom who won season five of “The Next Food Network Star” but I don’t want to watch a stay-at-home mom show me how to cook.
Second season winner, Guy Fieri, may have had restaurant design and management experience, but zero experience as a bonafide chef makes me less inclined to watch him. (And, weirdly enough, even though I find myself continually drawn to “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” I can’t stand watch Fieri’s red-faced shouting in lieu of talking. I think he may be one of the Food Network’s more annoying stars.
All of this being said, what Ruhlman does in this particular book is take a deeper look at the cult of chef celebrity and how the Food Network has helped to change the face of the food world. He takes us along to see the opening of several big-name restaurants in Vegas, anchored by star chefs like Bobby Flay, but he also takes a closer look at Food Network stars such as Emeril Lagasse and Rachael Ray.
A lot can be said about Emeril — especially by food snobs — but interestingly, Thomas Keller, the respected star chef, has this to say:
“Just because we may not agree with the way he delivers his information, therefore it’s no good? The delivery he’s using is one of that relates to a large group of people. So am I to be a snob and say, that’s not a good thing? No, I’m going to be a realist and say it’s a great thing, because at the end of the day, people are starting to learn about food at a higher level than I ever did when I was a kid.” (p.366)
Ruhlman points out that, increasingly, star chefs aren’t really chefs anymore — instead, they’re a “brand” that can be likened to what’s found in high fashion.
Before visiting these celebrity chefs, he makes a return visit to the CIA, where he chats with the current president, Tim Ryan.
Ryan’s way of conducting himself and treating the people in his life speaks volumes about the type of personality a really good chef — he’s a Certified Master Chef — must have in order to be a success.
Ruhlman writes of Ryan: “…privilege, he wanted his kids to understand, did not mean you got things for free — you still had to earn everything. This meant that if you were one square away from King Kandy’s Castle and you drew Plumpy — back you went, three years old or not.” (p.90)
“The Reach of a Chef” is a fascinating look at this world of celebrity and star chefs — and over and over again, you’re reminded that, in order to make it in this business, you need to have the drive, the discipline and the passion in order to make it big.
“The work is hard; no one’s forcing you to be here. If you don’t like it, leave. If it’s too hard, if you can’t do it, we’ll find someone who can — nothing personal — but service starts at 5:30 and there’s a lot to do.” (p.119)
It gave me pause because it made me realize that this applied to every work environment and not just a restaurant kitchen.
I know it’s a little unrealistic to compare a restaurant kitchen to any other type of work environment, but I can’t help but think that, if you operated in a place where everyone was as driven, disciplined and passionate about their craft as really good chefs in high-caliber restaurants are, then maybe you’d be able to achieve greater heights.
I read Ruhlman’s “The Making of a Chef” — which I thought was a fabulous look at the Culinary Institute of America — but I enjoyed “The Reach of a Chef” even more.
If you’re like me, you probably picked up this book because you watch way too much of the Food Network and you probably know of most of the key players in the industry; here, you visit Grant Achatz’s kitchen pre-Alinea and pre-cancer; you catch glimpses of Frank Bruni when he was just embarking on his stint as the New York Times’ powerful food critic; you read email exchanges between Ruhlman and his frenemy, Anthony Bourdain; and you revisit the CIA in a time where people, seduced by what they see on the Food Network, pursue their passion of food not in the hopes of becoming a master chef, but rather, to become a celebrity chef.
To be honest, I used to hate the Food Network’s “Next Star” series — mostly because, in a couple of instances, you had people with zero restaurant cooking experience winding up with shows. No offense to Melissa d’Arabian, the stay-at-home mom who won season five of “The Next Food Network Star” but I don’t want to watch a stay-at-home mom show me how to cook.
Second season winner, Guy Fieri, may have had restaurant design and management experience, but zero experience as a bonafide chef makes me less inclined to watch him. (And, weirdly enough, even though I find myself continually drawn to “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” I can’t stand watch Fieri’s red-faced shouting in lieu of talking. I think he may be one of the Food Network’s more annoying stars.
All of this being said, what Ruhlman does in this particular book is take a deeper look at the cult of chef celebrity and how the Food Network has helped to change the face of the food world. He takes us along to see the opening of several big-name restaurants in Vegas, anchored by star chefs like Bobby Flay, but he also takes a closer look at Food Network stars such as Emeril Lagasse and Rachael Ray.
A lot can be said about Emeril — especially by food snobs — but interestingly, Thomas Keller, the respected star chef, has this to say:
“Just because we may not agree with the way he delivers his information, therefore it’s no good? The delivery he’s using is one of that relates to a large group of people. So am I to be a snob and say, that’s not a good thing? No, I’m going to be a realist and say it’s a great thing, because at the end of the day, people are starting to learn about food at a higher level than I ever did when I was a kid.” (p.366)
Ruhlman points out that, increasingly, star chefs aren’t really chefs anymore — instead, they’re a “brand” that can be likened to what’s found in high fashion.
Before visiting these celebrity chefs, he makes a return visit to the CIA, where he chats with the current president, Tim Ryan.
Ryan’s way of conducting himself and treating the people in his life speaks volumes about the type of personality a really good chef — he’s a Certified Master Chef — must have in order to be a success.
Ruhlman writes of Ryan: “…privilege, he wanted his kids to understand, did not mean you got things for free — you still had to earn everything. This meant that if you were one square away from King Kandy’s Castle and you drew Plumpy — back you went, three years old or not.” (p.90)
“The Reach of a Chef” is a fascinating look at this world of celebrity and star chefs — and over and over again, you’re reminded that, in order to make it in this business, you need to have the drive, the discipline and the passion in order to make it big.
July 22, 2009
After really enjoying Ruhlman's The Soul of a Chef, I was really looking forward to his next book, The Reach of Chef. Whereas "Soul" was about what drives chefs to do what they how and how they go about doing it, "Reach" is subtitled "Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity" and promises an exploration of the current celebrity chef phenomenon. I was a little worried, however, when he started the book with the confession that he wanted to write this book because he really wanted to get back in the kitchen. While that's all well and good for him, I really kind of hoped he was writing a book (or, more to the point, that I had paid for and was reading his book) because he had something to say. And its not that he doesn't, but just not enough. Only about half of this book is really about the putative subject of the book. The rest is more or less an adjunct to "Soul."
All that said, Ruhlman is an engaging writer, clearly in love with the food, professional cooking and the people who do it. So, the book is enjoyable. Moreover, the parts that really do address the concept of the celebrity chef - the conditions which have made it possible, what it means for diners, commerce and the chef's themselves, etc., is very interesting. He indeed does have something to say. I just wish there'd been more of it and think there were a few related issues that could have used more (or any) examination. Stuff like the relationship between the celebrity chef phenomenon and the reality show thing bringing us shows like Top Chef and Hell's Kitchen and what impact that, in turn, will have (if any) on non-celebrity chefs.
After reading two books by him now, I'd love to taste his cooking. :-)
All that said, Ruhlman is an engaging writer, clearly in love with the food, professional cooking and the people who do it. So, the book is enjoyable. Moreover, the parts that really do address the concept of the celebrity chef - the conditions which have made it possible, what it means for diners, commerce and the chef's themselves, etc., is very interesting. He indeed does have something to say. I just wish there'd been more of it and think there were a few related issues that could have used more (or any) examination. Stuff like the relationship between the celebrity chef phenomenon and the reality show thing bringing us shows like Top Chef and Hell's Kitchen and what impact that, in turn, will have (if any) on non-celebrity chefs.
After reading two books by him now, I'd love to taste his cooking. :-)
January 5, 2010
I'm very jealous of Ruhlman's career trajectory. He had a pretty brilliant idea when he started on The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute.
This book helped me understand the differences between a chef like Jose Andres and a chef like Barton Seaver -- they're passionate about food in different ways, and those differences are amplified out in all aspects of their careers, both in and out of the kitchen. This book was published in 2006, with most of the research and writing appearing to have been completed in 2005. The celebrity chef culture has really taken off since then with shows like Top Chef and the further world domination of the Food Network. I think it would be an interesting subject for the author to revisit.
I do think Ruhlman's writing was a little loose. He took longer than necessary to explain his point while repeating minor points over and over throughout. This book should have been a quick read, but I struggled through some parts of it.
This book helped me understand the differences between a chef like Jose Andres and a chef like Barton Seaver -- they're passionate about food in different ways, and those differences are amplified out in all aspects of their careers, both in and out of the kitchen. This book was published in 2006, with most of the research and writing appearing to have been completed in 2005. The celebrity chef culture has really taken off since then with shows like Top Chef and the further world domination of the Food Network. I think it would be an interesting subject for the author to revisit.
I do think Ruhlman's writing was a little loose. He took longer than necessary to explain his point while repeating minor points over and over throughout. This book should have been a quick read, but I struggled through some parts of it.
January 20, 2011
I did enjoy this book, as a chef myself I truly understand the work. I think I liked The Soul of a Chef better though for pure entertainment and suspence. This book does, however, inspire me to be a better chef.
September 4, 2010
I almost quit reading this book a third of the way through (the author spent too much time talking about himself and interjecting personal opinion/experience...not why I bought the book). I'm glad I didn't, because the remainder of the book was rather fascinating to me.
The reader is granted an inside look at restaurants the average person will probably never get to actually eat at--and reading about the details of the chefs who founded them and the menus/venues they've created is (almost) the next best thing. Included: Melissa Kelly's Primo (Rockland, Maine) (by far my favorite of all of the featured restaurants--both in culinary philosophy and the establishment itself), Grant Achatz's Trio and Alinea (Evanston and Chicago), Thomas Keller's French Laundry and Per Se (Yountville and Manhattan, respectively), and Masayoshi Takayama's Masa (Manhattan).
Ruhlman also gives a history of the Culinary Institute of America, and how it and the the profession of chef have been influenced by the surge in popularity of the Food Network. (The book was published in 2006...an update on this topic would be interesting.) Speaking of, Rachael and Emeril aren't left out--Ruhlman covers the "Power of the Branded Chef"--a treat for a Food Network junkie like myself.
The reader is granted an inside look at restaurants the average person will probably never get to actually eat at--and reading about the details of the chefs who founded them and the menus/venues they've created is (almost) the next best thing. Included: Melissa Kelly's Primo (Rockland, Maine) (by far my favorite of all of the featured restaurants--both in culinary philosophy and the establishment itself), Grant Achatz's Trio and Alinea (Evanston and Chicago), Thomas Keller's French Laundry and Per Se (Yountville and Manhattan, respectively), and Masayoshi Takayama's Masa (Manhattan).
Ruhlman also gives a history of the Culinary Institute of America, and how it and the the profession of chef have been influenced by the surge in popularity of the Food Network. (The book was published in 2006...an update on this topic would be interesting.) Speaking of, Rachael and Emeril aren't left out--Ruhlman covers the "Power of the Branded Chef"--a treat for a Food Network junkie like myself.
July 7, 2009
I've heard about Ruhlman many times from trusted sources so I was rather disappointed about this book which is so full of name dropping I was drowning.
I get it: chefs have it hard. Chefs are tough. But if I hear one more time about how chefs must "be unusually driven just to stay alive", I'm going to use this book as fuel to cook marshmallow!
The whole behind-the-kitchen stories was interesting when Bourdain came out of the closet. It was touching to read how tough Achatz had it. But I think I've had enough of the life story of celebrity chefs. In my view, chefs are part creative artists but eventually, they have to turn raw ingredients into something edible. Preferably edible and beautiful and unusual.
Chefs nowadays move so far away from the kitchen into bookstores and TV studios it's unsavoury. They're out there to create brand and image so that they can swindle star-struck people who want a piece of the action in their own kitchens. Or people like me who like to read about food.
The book starts with Ruhlman's reminiscence of the CIA (Culinary Institute of America, by the way). He became famous when he entered the CIA to do a reporting. He discovered his vocation there and has been writing about chefs ever since. Further in the book, he moves on to discuss the different varieties of chefs: the edgy one like Achatz, the revered one like Keller, the fame-grabbing ones like Lagasse and (Rachel) Ray and so on.
The topics are quite interesting but they circumvent the most obvious aim of these celebrity chefs' hard work: to make money. The book is infuriating because Ruhlman continues emphasizing on how chefs are the most creative, hardworking, genius, dedicated professionals on earth to mask the crude message that they're all out there for the money. After a few repetitions, the message gets as limp as overdressed lettuce. Nauseating to swallow, too.
It's my mistake to start with the latest in the series and I haven't read the first one, The Making of a Chef which catapulted him into fame. Maybe if I read this one first, I'd have a different view. I'll search for that book in the library.
I get it: chefs have it hard. Chefs are tough. But if I hear one more time about how chefs must "be unusually driven just to stay alive", I'm going to use this book as fuel to cook marshmallow!
The whole behind-the-kitchen stories was interesting when Bourdain came out of the closet. It was touching to read how tough Achatz had it. But I think I've had enough of the life story of celebrity chefs. In my view, chefs are part creative artists but eventually, they have to turn raw ingredients into something edible. Preferably edible and beautiful and unusual.
Chefs nowadays move so far away from the kitchen into bookstores and TV studios it's unsavoury. They're out there to create brand and image so that they can swindle star-struck people who want a piece of the action in their own kitchens. Or people like me who like to read about food.
The book starts with Ruhlman's reminiscence of the CIA (Culinary Institute of America, by the way). He became famous when he entered the CIA to do a reporting. He discovered his vocation there and has been writing about chefs ever since. Further in the book, he moves on to discuss the different varieties of chefs: the edgy one like Achatz, the revered one like Keller, the fame-grabbing ones like Lagasse and (Rachel) Ray and so on.
The topics are quite interesting but they circumvent the most obvious aim of these celebrity chefs' hard work: to make money. The book is infuriating because Ruhlman continues emphasizing on how chefs are the most creative, hardworking, genius, dedicated professionals on earth to mask the crude message that they're all out there for the money. After a few repetitions, the message gets as limp as overdressed lettuce. Nauseating to swallow, too.
It's my mistake to start with the latest in the series and I haven't read the first one, The Making of a Chef which catapulted him into fame. Maybe if I read this one first, I'd have a different view. I'll search for that book in the library.
October 13, 2008
Tom Ryan is the Head of the Culinary Institute of America and this is his list for “greatness” in a Chef:
They are excellent craftsmen
They are innovators – they do something that no one has done before
They are ”on-trend” – innovations perceived to be of value; people buy their stuff; they aren’t tragic and misunderstood, appreciated for their innovations after they’re dead
They are influential – others begin to do what they started
A good phrase, “on the bus and in the right seat.”
Thomas Keller (French Laundry) says perfection is a direction, not an end. Per Se, his newer restaurant, has a kitchen larger than the dining area. Does this read counter-productive?
“Perhaps above all, though, what has propelled me back into the kitchen, what convinces me that Answers are there, is the fact that in a good kitchen you can’t lie to yourself. It’s a black and white world. A truth pervades the restaurant kitchen that is undeniable, impressive in its immediacy and clarity: your food is ready or it’s not, you’re in control or you’re a mess, you’re in the dance or you’re in the shit. it’s plain to see.” (p28)
They are excellent craftsmen
They are innovators – they do something that no one has done before
They are ”on-trend” – innovations perceived to be of value; people buy their stuff; they aren’t tragic and misunderstood, appreciated for their innovations after they’re dead
They are influential – others begin to do what they started
A good phrase, “on the bus and in the right seat.”
Thomas Keller (French Laundry) says perfection is a direction, not an end. Per Se, his newer restaurant, has a kitchen larger than the dining area. Does this read counter-productive?
“Perhaps above all, though, what has propelled me back into the kitchen, what convinces me that Answers are there, is the fact that in a good kitchen you can’t lie to yourself. It’s a black and white world. A truth pervades the restaurant kitchen that is undeniable, impressive in its immediacy and clarity: your food is ready or it’s not, you’re in control or you’re a mess, you’re in the dance or you’re in the shit. it’s plain to see.” (p28)
April 6, 2012
Full disclosures:
1) I started this book, but when it got sluggish I set it aside in favor of reading Catching Fire. When I was done with Catching Fire, I had no desire to return to this title, so instead I went forward with Mockingjay, happily.
2) I skipped/skimmed about 100 pages in the middle of the book. I think it's either the entirety of Section III, or both Section II and III.
I liked The Soul of a Chef quite a bit, and expected more from this title. Instead, Ruhlman talked about himself far too much for my taste--I didn't want all that autobiographical information, especially with the tone of superiority he has, blech. Mostly, I thought that all of the book would be like Section IV was, which discusses the celebrity of chefs, particularly chefs I am familiar with. The other parts were dull and slow. I am glad that I stuck it out to the end, for that part is what earned the three stars I gave this book.
1) I started this book, but when it got sluggish I set it aside in favor of reading Catching Fire. When I was done with Catching Fire, I had no desire to return to this title, so instead I went forward with Mockingjay, happily.
2) I skipped/skimmed about 100 pages in the middle of the book. I think it's either the entirety of Section III, or both Section II and III.
I liked The Soul of a Chef quite a bit, and expected more from this title. Instead, Ruhlman talked about himself far too much for my taste--I didn't want all that autobiographical information, especially with the tone of superiority he has, blech. Mostly, I thought that all of the book would be like Section IV was, which discusses the celebrity of chefs, particularly chefs I am familiar with. The other parts were dull and slow. I am glad that I stuck it out to the end, for that part is what earned the three stars I gave this book.
November 13, 2007
If you haven't read The making of a Chef and The Soul of Chef, Ruhlman's previous to books, I strongly suggest checking them out first. The Reach of a Chef dips back into the Culinary Institute of America 6 years after Ruhlman left it and discusses the changes that the celebrity chef, the avialable of better ingredients, the branding of chefs and restauranteers, and the way American society's views of chefs has evolved over the last 10 - 15 years.
Ruhlman's sketch portraits of Grant Achatz from Alinea, Melissa Kelly from Primo, Thomas Keller from The French Laundry/Bouchon/Per Se are wonderful. And his insights into reasons one should think twice before slamming the likes of Emeril Lagasse and Rachel Ray are illuminating and thoughtful.
It's truly a fascinating read, though a bit scattered at times. Beware, though, it will make you very hungry.
Ruhlman's sketch portraits of Grant Achatz from Alinea, Melissa Kelly from Primo, Thomas Keller from The French Laundry/Bouchon/Per Se are wonderful. And his insights into reasons one should think twice before slamming the likes of Emeril Lagasse and Rachel Ray are illuminating and thoughtful.
It's truly a fascinating read, though a bit scattered at times. Beware, though, it will make you very hungry.
June 20, 2007
One would think Ruhlman has reached the logical conclusion of his "... of a Chef" series with this 3rd edition. While not as good as the 2 earlier books, The Reach of a Chef is still a must read for most people who enjoyed them. Going beyond the pure love of cooking of the earlier 2 books, this one delves more into the restaurant business, focusing on celebrity chef restauranteurs such as Wolfgang Puck and Emeril Lagasse. The most interesting part of the book is regarding the growth of Las Vegas as a culinary mecca, however commercial it may be. This book gives the reader a good understanding of the interplay between the lure of growing a restaurant empire and making more money versus the difficulty in maintaining quality as you expand your brand.
September 1, 2010
Here, Ruhlman examines the rise of the celebrity chef; he returns to Thomas Keller (memorably profiled in his The Soul of a Chef) and the Culinary Institute of America, explores the popularity of Emeril Lagasse, Rachael Ray, and the Food Network, and visits chefs Grant Achatz and Melissa Kelly in their very different kitchens and restaurants.
I loved The Soul of a Chef; the wider focus of The Reach of a Chef was less intense and so less riveting, but I liked it a lot. Ruhlman's writing is crisp and witty, and he gets the chefs to open up with him and talk very personally about their lives and their cooking.
I loved The Soul of a Chef; the wider focus of The Reach of a Chef was less intense and so less riveting, but I liked it a lot. Ruhlman's writing is crisp and witty, and he gets the chefs to open up with him and talk very personally about their lives and their cooking.
July 30, 2011
Ruhlman thanks his editor, Ray Roberts at Viking, for his work on this third (and last) of the "Chef" series. The book would have been improved by a bit more serious work by Mister Roberts. Surely "Reach" is the weakest of the three offerings, which is not to say that it is not witty, in-depth, perceptive, insider, sympathetic, inspiring and worthwhile ... just not as good as the first two. Ruhlman worships Thomas Keller, which is very much to his credit, but gives too little consideration to a number of other bright lights in the heavens of 21st Century American gastronomy. For those who have read "The Making of a Chef" and "The Soul of a Chef," it is obligatory to complete the set by reading this book.
November 10, 2008
This is the 2nd Michael Ruhlman book I have read. Ruhlman presented the classic argument of "real" chef vs. celebrity chef. At best, celebrity chefs have inspired us, as slovenly, unsophisticated Americans, to return to the kitchen and stop the bloody Hamburger Helper, DiGiornio, Lean Cuisine imitation food-stuffs. If you can't respect Emeril, Sandra Lee, Rachel Ray (which I happen to actually respect), you should respect that they encourage people to stop eating crap that was freeze-dried months ago, and start caring that you are actually putting nutrition and something decent into your body!
December 12, 2008
This is the third in a series, following MAKING OF A CHEF and SOUL OF A CHEF. I didn't read the first two but from reading reviews by others, I gather that the first two were much better than this one. I didn't read the first two, but found this a very entertaining and informative read. Did skim over large sections because it went into much more detail than I needed about the peculiar antics of given chefs. Certainly did not endear me to the world of celebrity cooking or working in the kitchen of an esteemed restaurant (dreadful!) but really enjoyed the time-line of American eating habits and tidbits of restaurant lore.
March 18, 2009
I didn't like this book as much as the 2 earlier books in Ruhlman's Chef series, mainly because I felt that he raised thought-provoking questions on what it means to be a chef in the age of celebrity chefs and high-end restaurant chains, but fudged slightly when answering these questions.
An interesting update on the American restaurant world, but just not as arresting as his first 2 books. In fairness, perhaps that's because the subject matter isn't as romantic compared to the first 2 books (i.e., the quest to learn cooking, to set up a restaurant that perfectly reflects your approach to food).
An interesting update on the American restaurant world, but just not as arresting as his first 2 books. In fairness, perhaps that's because the subject matter isn't as romantic compared to the first 2 books (i.e., the quest to learn cooking, to set up a restaurant that perfectly reflects your approach to food).
April 11, 2017
The second half of the book is more what I expected: the history of the celebrity cook, a deep look into the kitchens and cultures behind a few up-and-coming chefs with different points of view, a balance of Food Network personalities and more "foodie" chefs, discussion of why it's almost impossible to make money as a chef (or chef-owner) without some kind of brand.
The first half/third is more of a set up, putting things into context -- cooking schools and how they've changed with the way cooking in America has changed, what it takes to make it, all important and really interesting things to know. The book is well written and tackles a lot of good questions.
The first half/third is more of a set up, putting things into context -- cooking schools and how they've changed with the way cooking in America has changed, what it takes to make it, all important and really interesting things to know. The book is well written and tackles a lot of good questions.
May 13, 2009
Ruhlman certainly has access--"ho, hum, here I am at dinner at Masa with Tony Bourdain, Thomas Keller, and the ghost of Escoffier"--but rarely is he able to convert that access and interesting material into a well-organized book. Reading this is like riding literary bumper cars; I frequently got whiplash as he jerked from one subject to the next (as another reviewer mentioned, the Masa chapter is the best; at the same time, it's the most-stand-alone chapter of the book, divorced from Ruhlman's tenuous thread of connectivity).
September 13, 2013
An interesting read to be sure, particularly in light of several of his previous books. It's interesting to see a semblance of follow up on some of the stories and characters he'd written nearly a decade before.
I appreciated the sections dealing with the CIA more than some of the latter specific restaurant and individual chef bios. There were some interesting pieces of overview of the restaurant business which were also quite interesting. I'm curious how there isn't a show on the Food Network which encapsulates some of this book into television format?
I appreciated the sections dealing with the CIA more than some of the latter specific restaurant and individual chef bios. There were some interesting pieces of overview of the restaurant business which were also quite interesting. I'm curious how there isn't a show on the Food Network which encapsulates some of this book into television format?
June 20, 2011
I have been fascinated by Michael Ruhlman's whole series about chefs and restaurants. In a different life, I might have become a professional chef. Meanwhile, I love reading about how chefs train, how the students grow and change through the process, and, of course, the mechanics of cooking. In this book, Ruhlman examines what it means to be a chef in this age of Food Network. Sometimes it is good to cook just for cooking's sake, because it is what you love, not because you aspire to celebrity.
August 9, 2015
I'm a person who thinks some activities should be left to professionals and cooking is one of them. I keep reading chef books because I just love all the stuff about how the food actually gets made, what the kitchen is like, the drama of service. As in all Michael Ruhlman's books, it's in there but this book is also about what a prominent chefs career trajectories looks like as they age. this book was published in 2006 before the great crash in 2008. I wish there were a sequel to show us how all the plans for world domination turned out.
January 1, 2018
Not unreadable but you get the distinct impression Michael is a bro’s bro. Not in the least because of the sexist way he insists on describing Michelle Kelly as seductive...as if you’re party to his teenage dream. He has no other way of describing her, despite her constantly saying she wants to be taken seriously as a chef. Also, did you know Rachel Ray was sooo hot in person? This plus poor analytics around what it means to actually be a chef in today’s world makes it difficult to follow through.
May 11, 2007
I'm generally fond of books about food - and Ruhlman writes really excellent ones. This is a return to two topics in previous books - Thomas Keller (a chef) and the Culinary Institute of America.
I'm not sure that I'd recommend this as a book of his to start with (you'll have much more fun if you've read his previous work) but his style is, as always, great fun, and there's lots of excellent food geekery.
I'm not sure that I'd recommend this as a book of his to start with (you'll have much more fun if you've read his previous work) but his style is, as always, great fun, and there's lots of excellent food geekery.
August 20, 2007
This is the last of Ruhlman's books that I read, and while I've never been blown away by his writing style, I have always found the content quite engaging. This book, however, I found was the least successful simply because it is dated in a way his others were not. It concerns a precise point of time and follows the trajectories of specific chefs in specific projects without addressing the social motivators behind them.
October 7, 2009
Tim Ryan's definition for greatness in any artist:
--excellent craftsman
--innovator
--"on trend": innovation perceived to be of value, people buy; not tragic, misunderstood, or only
appreciated post-mortem
--influential - others copy
Cases: Thomas Keller of French Laundry & PerSe (NYC)
Melissa Kelly of Primo (Maine + Tucson Marriott)
Grant Achatz of Alinea (Chicago)
Masayoshi Takayama of Masa (NYC)
--excellent craftsman
--innovator
--"on trend": innovation perceived to be of value, people buy; not tragic, misunderstood, or only
appreciated post-mortem
--influential - others copy
Cases: Thomas Keller of French Laundry & PerSe (NYC)
Melissa Kelly of Primo (Maine + Tucson Marriott)
Grant Achatz of Alinea (Chicago)
Masayoshi Takayama of Masa (NYC)
May 30, 2011
What can I say? I love Ruhlman's writing, except that it always makes me hungry. Reading his writing is pure recreation for me, the perfect thing for a long weekend. His descriptions are clear, his narrative strong, and he has a gift for making the individuals he writes about come alive. Best of all, he knows his subject and has the ability to see the culinary experience from both sides of the table.
February 2, 2016
I have such mixed feelings about Michael Ruhlman's books on cooking. I think at times he goes in to too much detail, is repetitive, or too worshipful of chefs he writes about. Parts of this book I really liked (profiles of Melissa Kelly and Rachael Ray; the last part, about "The Chefs at Columbus Circle"), and parts that dragged. I liked this better than "Making of a Chef" and "Soul of a Chef."
January 23, 2008
with no reference to the previous two books in this intentional (or just commercially viable?) series, this was quality but too much patting of too few people's backs. if it were presented as less an overview and just stories of chefs, it would be a better book. more data and less personal anecdotes from the author. he can write about food no doubt.
January 13, 2008
Simply wonderful, made me very hungry but only multiplied my already intense appreciation and admiration of chefs. The stories of Thomas Keller and Grant Achatz enhanced my memories of their food and the tales of Masa made me realize that I too would some day be among those crazy enought to spend an inordinate sum on a single night's consumption. Read it on an empty stomach.
August 4, 2011
Really great book if you're into food and chefs and the rise of the modern celebrity chef. I found it totally fascinating to read about chefs who are now world famous well before they became huge (book was written in 2006). As always, Ruhlman speaks with authority and knowledge, and is a fun quick read.
August 12, 2011
I did enjoy this book, but not as much as the other 2 of the same type (Making of a Chef and Soul of a Chef). It was an interesting look at the implications of moving from being a chef to really being the CEO of a company that doesn't cook. Also compares situations of Thomas Keller, Masa, Grant Achatz, and others in a world of "celebrity" chefs. Quite interesting.
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