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Two Wheels North: Bicycling the West Coast in 1909

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The bold adventures of two young men who pedaled, pushed, and walked their bikes a thousand miles north for fifty-four days, from Santa Rosa, California, to the great 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition in Seattle. Readers of all ages will find themselves pulled into the resolute push to complete the trek.

181 pages, Paperback

First published August 1, 2000

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Evelyn McDaniel Gibb

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Displaying 1 - 29 of 29 reviews
164 reviews
February 10, 2024
Before transportation departments, roads were not paved; they were dirt, gravel or corduroyed logs and traveling was an adventure. This book is about two best friends traveling from Santa Rosa California to Seattle Washington on bicycles (or afoot where roads were impassable by wheel). This journey was unique because most people at the time (1909) would travel long distance either by train or by ship. There were wagon roads and stage roads connecting many of the places, but much of the route was unexplored wilderness. So, it seemed a bit like an adventure along the Oregon trail in the 1800s.

The two bicyclists are the author's father, Victor McDaniel, and his best friend, Ray Francisco. The book is their true story. Pictures of actual post cards from their trek are included throughout the book. It's very helpful that this journey was well documented because the two men worked for the newspaper and wrote detailed letters and post cards about their travel along the way. They traveled across part of California (86 pages), all though Oregon (51 pages) and part of Washington (43 pages). A map of the route is included in the book.

Back then, bicycling was called wheeling and bikes were called wheels. The book conveyed that wheeling was a respected means of travel.

I learned that dirt roads in cities were periodically wetted or oiled to keep dust from flying.

I was very curious how their journey would be in Oregon, since I knew that Oregon created the nation's first bicycle tax in 1899, taxing bicycles to pave roads. This wasn't mentioned in the book, just a historical fact I knew. Here's a quote on page 61, anticipating better roads in Oregon:

"... 'Come Oregon we'll do better on roads. Make up for lost days.' 'Just what do you know of Oregon roads?...'"

Then, later, in Oregon, page 98:

"'Never saw a surface like this before, Vic.' The road across the valley was covered with crosswise corn stalks several deep, a surface designed to keep folks' rigs from miring in the mud."

However, I was pleased to read that in Roseburg Oregon, they came to actual asphalt paved roads and again in Eugene Oregon.

Content considerations:
Swearing.
Brawl in a bath house associated with a man accused of being gay.
Dealing with sores from a bicycle seat.

Since Ray was religious (aiming to be a preacher), they mostly stayed away from bars and anything immoral. There was talk about which towns had prohibition, and Vic was interested in visiting bars. Some quotes about the admirable character who Ray was:

"A man could wonder if such a coincidence truly was a coincidence, or if Ray's being on good terms with his Lord might just tip the scales to our side." P. 101

"Ray's reasonable sounding thoughts, so blind to worry, frayed a man's patience." P. 83
Profile Image for Karen Painter.
123 reviews1 follower
December 20, 2021
I really enjoyed reading this book about two young men, Ray and Vic who decided to ride their bicycles from Santa Rosa, Calif to Seattle, Washington in order to attend the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition. The young men were just graduated from high school in 1909 when they embarked on this trip. It is an amazing story with all the dangers, troubles, road conditions, travel conditions that they endured over the course of 54 days and 1,000+ miles. I appreciated knowing about most of the towns or territory they were traveling through.
Profile Image for Michael.
587 reviews12 followers
July 17, 2016
I have a blog about cycling history and although my main interest is the 1890s, this book about two young men traveling up the west coast from Santa Rosa California to Seattle to visit the Alaska-Yukon Exposition in 1909 was both enjoyable to read and informative in its providing some sense of the obstacles to this kind of long distance cycling at that time.

The text is a first-person narrative written by the daughter of one of the two men, based on her father's description of the trip as well as post cards sent both home and to a newspaper that published updates about their travels. This historian's blog post gives a good summary of the book's contents.

As someone interested in cycling history, I was pleased to read a book that included enough description of the bicycle-related aspects of their trip. For example, they paid to have someone weld racks much like those used to hold panniers on cycles today to their bike frames in order to carry some of their baggage - although generally they traveled very light. One understands quickly why their trip was considered so unusual - the road conditions were varied but often very poor, and they ended up walking about 200 of the 1,000 miles they traveled (measured by an odometer fixed to one of the bikes). While there were macadam roads in some towns, most roads were dirt or gravel (which might be rolled gravel which was better but often not) and "corduroy" log roads and even a road made from corn stalks. Long distance travel in this part of the world was supported at this time by the railroads, not the road system.

At first it seemed surprising that they felt pressed for time when they had six weeks to go only 1,000 miles, but this was not a bike trip where there were any 100 mile days, given the road conditions in particular. In addition, they stopped from time to time to take on day jobs to earn more money to continue their trip, since they left with only about five dollars cash - apparently at this time it was generally not a problem to find such work.

One might wonder about the attraction of the Alaska-Yukon Exposition for two fellows in California - apparently the publicity across the U.S. was very well organized, and it was expected to include what would then have been exotic exhibits from Hawaii, Japan, and Alaska (among others). The site of the exhibit and some of the buildings then became the main campus of the University of Washington (where I went to school). A number of photograph books of the exhibit were published and are available today online, such as Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition or this Souvenir Guide for visitors.
Profile Image for Muriel.
97 reviews
August 1, 2012
It was kind of an amazing story of two 18-year-olds who traveled by bicycle from Santa Rosa, CA to Seattle WA. It was written by the daughter of one of the boys. I thought she did a great job of putting the story into her father's words. Painted some beautiful words pictures of the scenery - esp. the mountains and sky. They had some horrific challenges and did a lot of growing up on this trip. Being from the Santa Rosa area, I also enjoyed the references to our locale - Luther Burbank, etc.
Profile Image for Owen Curtsinger.
204 reviews11 followers
August 24, 2012
A solid, convincing historical narrative with interesting family origins in its conception. I wasn't particularly awed by the story or the boys' characters, but its pleasant to be immersed in the time period when the writing can convince you that you're there.
Profile Image for Jeanette (Ms. Feisty).
2,179 reviews2,196 followers
July 3, 2008
I liked this book because I know the area they traveled through, and because it tells about a time that is gone forever. Things were so different back then, and the boys were so innocent!
Profile Image for Roberta Herget.
3 reviews
August 29, 2023
Loved this book. Two good-hearted, somewhat naive young men, best friends, set out on an adventure that would be challenging today, and somewhat foolish in1909. With just $5.65 between them, they set out to ride their bicycles from Santa Rosa, California, to Seattle to visit the Alaska Yukon Pacific Exposition. The daughter of Ray McDaniel, one of the two young men, weaves a story of their amazing journey as it was relayed in 1909 to their hometown newspaper, The Santa Rosa Press Democrat I enjoyed every word, and it left me wanting to know what happened later in the lives of these two young dreamers.
Profile Image for Anne.
266 reviews1 follower
April 3, 2022
Very well put together. It felt like I was along on the adventure with Vic and Ray. To get a glimpse of the west coast in 1909 was great. The overlap of "old-fashioned" and "modern" was interesting. The conditions of roads varied quite a bit.
206 reviews2 followers
December 31, 2020
So incredibly well written. A great look into how the Pacific Northwest looked and acted in 1909. A great read about an incredible journey.
Profile Image for Trane.
Author 2 books17 followers
May 21, 2008
Two Wheels North is a fantastic account of a 1909 bicycle trip up the West Coast. Two friends decide to ride from Santa Rosa to Seattle in order to see the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition before it closes. They're sponsored in part by the Santa Rosa Press Democrat, and they send notes back to the paper describing their travels.

The book is a compendium of interesting sketches of California, Oregon, and Washington in the era before paved roads and automobile culture. There are fantastic descriptions of farm life, tramping, train systems, ferries, Native-American fisheries, hop picking in Oregon, country dances, desolate wilderness roads at night, and (exceedingly) brief guest appearances by people like Jack London and Luther Burbank. In one of my favorite sections of the book the two riders, Vic and Ray, end up working at a sawmill in Shasta where they learn the local myths about the two cities — Yaktavia and Iletheleme — hidden within the mountain. Also, the two riders carry a Billiken figure with them for luck, so if you're interested in the Billiken this book is worth a read.

The biggest downside of the book is that Evelyn McDaniel Gibb, the author, has chosen to write the story — which is based on true events — in the style of her father's naive 19-year old voice. Dialect is extremely hard to pull off, especially when the vocabulary in use has already become historically quaint. There are a bit too many uses of words like "holler," "chum," and "rascals" for the text to ever completely disappear — at some point it always ends up revealing itself as a fabrication and this kept me from being as entirely involved in the story as I otherwise would have been. A better choice would have been to have written a fictionalized diary or a series of letters in her father's voice. This would have allowed Gibb to giver her father's character his own voice, while at the same time tempering the dialect involved by invoking a writing voice rather than a speaking voice.

The biggest disappointment of this book is (spoiler alert! spoiler alert!) the fact that the two riders do make it to the Exposition, but there's no description of the Exposition or Seattle at all. The book ends with the two riders at night, looking out over Seattle, but we never get to see the city that they enter. I imagine this is kind of what it would be like to read the Lord of the Rings if when Sam and Frodo get to Mt. Doom we were to get an ending like this: "Sam and Frodo stood in front of Mr. Doom. They knew their quest was finished." Say what? It seems like the cyclists may have made it to the Expo, but perhaps the author ran out of steam a bit at the finishing line.

Definitely recommended reading, even if ultimately not one of the great greats.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Profile Image for Daniel M..
Author 1 book32 followers
April 9, 2012
In 1909, Vic McDaniel and Ray Franciso, new high school graduates ride north from Santa Rosa on second-hand bikes, bound for the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition in Seattle. Sending postcards of their travels back to the home-town newspaper, they had their share of memorable moments. A girl stole Ray's heart but the fates intervened to deal a crushing blow; pin-striped hustlers; sharpies; farmers living along in the boonies; remote Indians salmon fishing; and drunken ferry-boat pilots… characters like that all along the way. They road dusty, crummy roads—on railroad tracks, fought their way around boulders and through hillsides, and saw rivers rich with salmon. They held their breaths crossing railroad trestles over deep canyons, and found that a railroad tunnel doesn't offer much clearance when you're halfway in and a train comes through. A fine story, well-told, written by the daughter of one of the men. The roads have changed, but more importantly, this is a tale of what high-school boys could once accomplish—and how much their parents were willing to let them be boys and have a grand adventure of the kind we can’t imagine letting kids have now.

The book is also full of lovely and quaint turn of the century language. p. 33 “Get an Electrolife for those piles,” p. 76 “letting some romp out,” or terms used throughout like “Veeder box” and “sadiron,” or calling a bicycle “a wheel.”

Overall, a very fun book that gives a sense of the time (1909) incredibly well. Fast and light.
Profile Image for Katie.
8 reviews1 follower
December 21, 2017
"Two Wheels North" reminded me of "The Boys in the Boat" in that, as you fell in love with The Boys, so do you fall for Ray and Vic. It is intimate: emotional highs and lows are shown and talked about.

The book was written by Vic's daughter, in (she tells us) her father's distinctive style. The result is a window into the Northern West Coast in 1909, through the language of the time. I have never read anything quite like it.

The boys are bicycling from Santa Rosa, California to Seattle, along what we know today as I-5. There were times I shook my head, marveling at the massive changes in the people and landscape in 105 years.

And the moment I finished, I turned back to Page One and re-read it. Then I bought it, because I couldn't imagine not owning it.

As with the best kind of loves, I want to talk about my new amour, share it with my nearest and dearest so that they too can have this personal, intense and lovely experience.
38 reviews
December 2, 2008
This is a fast read. Curious that it is avowedly "ghostwritten" - which is to say that a daughter transcribed the conversations of her father, one of the two men in the tale, and he would vet. But it is a fascinating portrait into a life that seems many more worlds away than just two generations. I found it a great travel narrative, full of delightful colorful details and quite vivid. I wish all the original postcards, letters, etc., had been transcribed and included as an appendix so I could read them, as well as the less-public history that the book tells.
Profile Image for Abby Schwartz.
310 reviews2 followers
August 25, 2013
I've recommended this book several times to people who like to travel by bike. Fun description of what the roads (or lack thereof) were like in the early 1900s on the west coast through Oregon and Washington. A different era. A couple of friends ride bikes from Stockton, CA to the Seattle Worlds Fair, sending reports back to the newspaper along the way. If they make it in time they get paid. How hard can it be?
Profile Image for Book-it Repertory Theatre.
16 reviews9 followers
April 5, 2010
Based on the true stroy of the author's father in a 1909 bicycle trip up the coast from California - just in time for the Alaska Yukon Pacific Exposition. In partnership with King County's 4Culture, we will tour this book to far-flung locations in King County and beyond - maybe even to your local community center. Call us to inquire!
Profile Image for Jill Rockwell.
5 reviews
November 22, 2009
Saw a play based on this book and purchased the book that night. A wonderful true life story of two boys just graduated that bicycle from Santa Rosa to Seattle in 1909 and all the adventures they encounter.
I loved the way the characters talk in this book. There were lots of great lines but my favorite was "We are going to fix those nasties on your rusty-dusty" Still makes me smile.
Profile Image for Gwen.
217 reviews
May 7, 2012
Gave it a high rating for the context and true adventure, not so much for the writing. Early 1990's 2 boys just out of high school bike form Santa Rosa to Seattle. Most of the trouble is keeping their bikes in shape. But kudos to them for going and it is interesting to remember a time when people helped each other out.
Profile Image for Bill Russell.
11 reviews
May 31, 2012
For those of us who drove through Northern California and Southern Oregon before the was an Interstate 5 - memories of smelling towns via the wigwam furnace of the mill before seeing evidence if inhabitation are still vivid. This tome rolls through that trip before there was a Highway 99! Two teens peddle from Santa Rosa to the Seattle World's Fair of 1909. Precious reading!
Profile Image for Betsy.
279 reviews6 followers
August 5, 2015
Enjoyed the book, written from the standpoint of one of the boys who made the bike trip to Seattle from CA. Amazing the conditions of the roads and some of the folks they met along the way. But in the end, I was disappointed the book ended once they got to the fair. I would have loved to hear about the fair too.
Profile Image for Chris Brown.
28 reviews
March 21, 2021
A great trip back in time. The true story of two boys on a bicycle adventure to the worlds fair in Seattle. Visit 1900. There are few cars or paved roads. Fishing in the streams for trout for dinner working farms and pecan orchards for hospitality accommodations in the barns along the way. A pleasant short story.
Profile Image for Jonathan.
26 reviews1 follower
April 18, 2008
This is set in the alien world of my backyard some fifty-two years before I was born.

The story sets me to grieve for a world and a life I can and will never know except in the words of people who were there.

Profile Image for E.W..
90 reviews
January 4, 2015
This was given to me by a cycling friend. It's an interesting read, though the ending is very abrupt. I would have liked more of a wrap up of their journey. It must have been fairly compelling though, as my daughter and wife both read it too.
Profile Image for Joe.
18 reviews5 followers
September 13, 2007
Nothing special about the writing but a wonderful story.
Profile Image for Ryan.
14 reviews1 follower
Want to read
August 15, 2008
Have heard about this book in passing and would like to read it at some point.
Profile Image for Daniel.
Author 3 books80 followers
Want to read
November 20, 2008
This looks interesting! Thanks for bringing this to my attention, Judd.
Profile Image for Marjorie.
404 reviews
January 12, 2010
Touring cyclists in 1909 from Bay Area to the World's Fair. Two young men. Great story telling
122 reviews
February 1, 2013
Spellbinding and humorous chronicle written by granddaughter of one of the adventurers, based on his recollections and stories he couldn't tell at the time.
Displaying 1 - 29 of 29 reviews

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