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On Belay!: The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt

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Focuses on the adventures of the famous mountaineer, noted for climbing the Matterhorn twice in one day, and scaling K2 in the Himalayas

238 pages, Hardcover

First published February 1, 1998

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Raye Carleson Ringholz

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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
Profile Image for Terry Cornell.
529 reviews60 followers
March 6, 2021
Another book that I ended up reading in a round-about way. My wife and I bought the book several years ago. It was on a rack with other 'clearance' books. I thought it might be a good reference for a writing project my wife was working on at the time. I had never heard of Paul Petzoldt, but I was familiar with some of the people who provided jacket blurbs. Surprised I never heard of Petzoldt through my days as a boy scout/backpacker, and later as a forestry/recreation major.

The writing project was sidelined, and the book stuck away. I rediscovered the book recently, and now that I'm more into reading biographies thought I'd check it out. The writing itself, is to the point and basic, but the subject matter is fascinating. Petzoldt's life seems too incredible to have at least parts of his story fabricated from the fiction world. The author knew Petzoldt, and worked with him on his book 'The Wilderness Handbook'. She does provide documentation to substantiate the accomplishments of Petzoldt's life.

At the age of sixteen Petzoldt climbed Wyoming's Grand Teton. He eventually started his own guide service in Grand Teton National Park. He went on to climb in Europe, and was on the first American expedition to attempt to climb K2 in the Himalayas. He visited England as a guest of the Dean of St. George's Cathedral at Windsor Castle, and toured Europe via bicycle. During World War II, he started working with the USDA in organizing food deliveries to foreign countries through the lend-lease program, then volunteered with the US Army. In the army, he was an instructor with the 10th Mountain Division and helped develop much of their training program.

After the war he was the chief instructor with Colorado Outward Bound, then went on to establish the National Outdoor School for Leadership. Petzoldt began his life growing up poor in pre-depression era Idaho, persevered through many hardships and continued climbing into his 90s. The interesting characters Petzoldt meets on his journeys provides extra spice to his story.

A quick and interesting read. The last two chapters are a little dull--especially compared to the rest of the book. They cover Petzoldt's founding of NOLS, and his later years with the Wilderness Education Association. If you like reading about outdoor adventures with a little history mixed in, I recommend this book.
Profile Image for James.
59 reviews4 followers
October 22, 2018
Great story of one of America's greatest Mountaineers. Paul listened to the small things along the trail and that is what made him who he is. There is so much to learn from this man who simply loved being in the mountains. He knew, and I wished I was even younger to be apart of what Paul believed and created at that time. If you go into the mountains and you listen, Listen to the Rock it will tell you. As a trained Military Mountaineer, I really truly believe his philosophy. The book follows his love of being in the Mountains. There is so much to learn from Paul, he knows and is willing to impart that knowledge. The book follows Paul from a youngster, his many ascents of the Grand Teton, the first American ascent of K2,life in India, his service with the 10th Mountain during WWII, and his creation of NOLS. An amazing man, his life and his true love of being in the Mountains.
42 reviews
May 13, 2021
Paul Petzoldt has indirectly had a not insignificant impact on my life so this review is biased I must admit.

Paul Petzoldt is an American climbing legend, (even if most climbers themselves haven’t heard of him.) He pioneered climbing in the Grand Tetons establishing many routes 80+ years ago that are still done to this day, invented climbing techniques, and founded the world’s foremost outdoors school of NOLS.

I have been fortunate enough to climb a couple of his routes on the Grand which made this recount of history more intimate and enjoyable. My first attempt on his namesake ridge of the Grand was a foremost experience of my life. It’s incredible to think about doing these routes with the technology and technique of the 30’s, and sometimes even in cowboy boots! I have had a couple friends go through NOLS courses and the ethos Paul emphasized around outdoors travel has undoubtedly rubbed off all the way down the line.

Simply, this is an American history story and one I would recommend that is full of mistakes, gusto, and an unrelenting passion for the outdoors.
Profile Image for Jean Dupenloup.
475 reviews5 followers
April 29, 2020
A decent read about Paul Petzoldt, THE pioneer of the Tetons.

Mr. Petzoldt occupies a unique place in the lore of American mountaineering: his efforts to develop routes on the Grand Teton yielded some of the most classic climbs in the country, which are still repeated by thousands each year.

Add his participation in the 1938 K2 expedition and his pivotal role with NOLS, and you have one extraordinary life, ably recounted in this biography.
4 reviews1 follower
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July 30, 2008
This was a light read that I took along on a wilderness expedition. I enjoyed finding a better understanding of a man who always has seemed bigger than life. It really helped me understand my own passion for outdoor adventure, challenges and risk taking.
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