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Golden Earth: Travels in Burma

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Despite communist incursions and tribal insurrection, Norman Lewis describes a land of breath-taking natural beauty peopled by the gentle Burmese. This is a country where Buddhist beliefs spare even the rats, where the Director of Prisons quotes Chaucer and where three-day theatrical shows are staged to celebrate a monk taking orders. Hitching lifts with the army and with travelling merchants, Lewis is treated to hospitality wherever he stops in this war-torn land, and reveals a country where 'the condition of the soul replaces that of the stock markets as a topic for polite conversation'.

290 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1952

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About the author

Norman Lewis

183 books150 followers
Norman Lewis was a British writer renowned for his richly detailed travel writing, though his literary output also included twelve novels and several volumes of autobiography. Born in Enfield, Middlesex in 1908 to a Welsh family, Lewis was raised in a household steeped in spiritualism, a belief system embraced by his grieving parents following the deaths of his elder brothers. Despite these early influences, Lewis grew into a skeptic with a deeply observant eye, fascinated by cultures on the margins of the modern world.
His early adulthood was marked by various professions—including wedding photographer, umbrella wholesaler, and even motorcycle racer—before he served in the British Army during World War II. His wartime experiences in Algiers, Tunisia, and especially Naples provided the basis for one of his most celebrated books, Naples '44, widely praised as one of the finest firsthand accounts of the war. His writing blended keen observation with empathy and dry wit, traits that defined all of his travel works.
Lewis had a deep affinity for threatened cultures and traditional ways of life. His travels took him across Southeast Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. Among his most important books are A Dragon Apparent, an evocative portrait of French Indochina before the Vietnam War; Golden Earth, on postwar Burma; An Empire of the East, set in Indonesia; and A Goddess in the Stones, about the tribal communities of India. In Sicily, he explored the culture and reach of the Mafia in The Honoured Society and In Sicily, offering insight without sensationalism.
In 1969, his article “Genocide in Brazil,” detailing atrocities committed against Indigenous tribes, led directly to the formation of Survival International, an organization committed to protecting tribal peoples worldwide. Lewis often cited this as the most meaningful achievement of his career, expressing lifelong concern for the destructive influence of missionary activity and modernization on indigenous societies.
Though Lewis also wrote fiction, his literary reputation rests primarily on his travel writing, which was widely admired for its moral clarity, understated style, and commitment to giving voice to overlooked communities. He remained an unshakable realist throughout his life, famously stating, “I do not believe in belief,” though he found deep joy in simply being alive.
Lewis died in 2003 in Essex, survived by his third wife Lesley and their son Gawaine, as well as five other children from previous marriages.

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Displaying 1 - 20 of 20 reviews
Profile Image for Daren.
1,576 reviews4,574 followers
November 28, 2020
A very enjoyable book from Norman Lewis describing his travels in Burma (Myanmar now) in 1951. Lewis took on this trip as he was, like many others, was concerned Burma was in for big changes - either passing into communist control and folding under the wing of China, or the West would intervene as was the case at the time in Korea. Either way, it would be expected to be the end of "traditional Burma with its archaic and charming way of life".

Lewis's style of writing is quite relaxed, but he is fond of an unusual or awkward word, sending one scrambling for assistance. I think he enjoys putting the reader of the back foot just as they settle in. Within the first chapter he throws us impecunious (having little money), legerdemain (skilful use of one's hands when performing conjuring tricks).

Commencing, of course, in Rangoon (now Yangon) Lewis works his way around contacts and obtains some permissions to travel, probably quite against the odds. He is a traveller who plans, but is quite prepared to make changes on the run, or adapt to changes in circumstance - and this was essential during his time in Burma. He ends up travelling Burma quite extensively - from Myitkyina in the north to Mergui (now Myeik) in the south.

For me there were some memorable parts of Lewis's travel, some clever writing, and some amusing situations. I think Lewis does well to balance his book.

A few samples:

I enjoyed Lewis's time spent with Mr Pereira who he shares a train carriage on the Rangoon Express, who is very reminiscent of so many of Paul Theroux's characters, and being on a train compounds this.
The station master was most helpful. The Rangoon Express would be running next morning at quarter-past six...
And what time would it get to Rangoon?
The station master was slightly surprised. Naturally it wouldn't. It was called the Rangoon Express because it went in the direction of Rangoon and it might travel five, ten or fifty miles before the line was dynamited, or a bridge blown up, or with good luck it might even reach Tatkon, which was about a hundred and fifty miles away.

...he produced a newspaper cutting which said that among the passengers to arrive on that morning's plane had been the author Lewis Morgan... It is one of the accepted humiliations of the writer that however simple his name, no one can ever get it right. In my travels in Indo-China I had been given an identification paper referring to me as Louis Norman, writer, commissioned by Jonathan Cape Limited of Thirty Bedford Square. By a slow process of compression and corruption I finished this journey as Monsieur Thirsty Bedford; which, as the name and description had been recopied about twenty times, I did not think unreasonable.


4 stars.
Profile Image for Paul Cornelius.
1,044 reviews42 followers
November 13, 2022
As long as I can remember, Burma/Myanmar has seemed a place of darkness. I can't pinpoint just when the country came into my awareness. Possibly it was when in my teens I saw the 1945 film, Objective Burma!, with Errol Flynn. I know I saw it several times growing up in the 1960s. And the Burma of that movie seemed hot, sweaty, and dangerous. Later, I read Orwell's Burmese Days. Things still seemed pretty uncomfortable, hot, and sweaty. Later, again, in the 1980s there were more books, more movies, and a lot more news of atrocities against anyone, ethnic minority or Burmese who opposed the military dictatorship that took power in 1962. And, of course, there had been ethnic strife, division, and constant warfare since the country's independence from Britain in 1948. So I never much wanted to visit Burma, and I never have done so. Funny, because I came to live in Southeast Asia about twelve years ago. If I wanted to go to the Thai-Burma border right this moment, all I would need to do is take the soi out of my village heading north, turn left, get on the highway and drive 170km/100 miles for about two hours. The trouble is, I still don't want to go (even if still existent Covid barriers would disappear). Because it seems even more like a place of darkness, killings, murders, and conflict than ever before.

Norman Lewis traveled there much earlier, in the early 1950s. He saw a nation emerging out of colonial rule and, despite the communist guerrillas and Shan and Karen separatists, came to be optimistic about the future. Lewis lived to be 95 years old and died in 2003. So he had to realize how wrong he was, even if he did take his customary position blaming Cold War rivalries and superpower political blocs for the root cause of all global troubles. Back in the early fifties, however, Burma was still an adventure for him. It's a place of some magic, wonderful and kind people, all with a Buddhist philosophy rejecting materialism and satisfied with spiritual intangibles. That was silly. Nevertheless, conditions allowed Lewis to fool himself about just how much individuals lust for power and things. Pictures and ads from American magazines are not the reason for it.

Still, I enjoyed the story Lewis tells. Why? Because these early Lewis travel writings not only take you to a different place but to a different time. Things are just outside of my memories of the 1950s enough to allow me to indulge in his fantasies about jungle adventures on decrepit trucks, jeeps, and railroads with blown up bridges. I wish I could have seen Lewis' Burma. Chancing the place now is not on my agenda. I'll need to be satisfied with Thailand, Laos, Malaysia, and the like. Burma/Myanmar still seems full of too much darkness for me.
Profile Image for Dave Reid.
5 reviews
October 12, 2012
An enjoyable read, written long before the country began to suffer under the military rule. While this is my first venture into the writings of Lewis, he has a more detatched style of observation than Theroux, particularly concerning those who he meets. The only real character in the book is Mr Pereira who he shares a railway carriage with and it is this close contact that probably gave more subject matter to play with. Others drift in and out of the book but seem to be confined to policeman, local officials and village leaders.
There are aspects of the book that remind me of Therouxs` Great Railway Bazaar which is why I enjoyed reading it. Would recommend to those who have read the above.
Profile Image for Peter Clark.
4 reviews2 followers
January 25, 2014
Casually picked up this book as I came across it after motorcycling around Thailand, Laos and Vietnam with plans to go back and continue explorations when Burma has opened up properly.
This is the best travel book I have ever read, and I like travel books.
His use of language is scintillating, stunning, gorgeous, expansive, precise and fabulous beyond almost anything I have ever read.
If Bill Bryson were Noel Coward with a splash of Oscar Wilde, he might have the temerity to dream of one day writing a book of this quality, filled with extraordinary insight and wit.
Before setting foot in the country, I now have a sense of near certainty that I will grasp the character and nature of the people of Burma as soon as I arrive.
No wonder Graham Greene wrote "I have no hesitation in calling Norman Lewis one of our best writers, not of any particular decade but of our century."
Profile Image for Jeff Clay.
141 reviews6 followers
February 20, 2016
Never mind that this book was written over 60 years ago. Nor, that it was written about a very different Burma (now, Myanmar) than now exists. Golden Earth still reigns as a superlative travel book, filled with dry humor, trenchant observations, clear writing, a patient and patent willingness to subordinate comfort and expectations to achieve his goals, and a love for the places and people that are the Burma of the '50's.

Good travel writing is unique in that with a modicum passage of time, it becomes history writing. Myanmar now may be a very different place than Burma was mid-2oth century, but having just returned from the country, I can say that Lewis provides a clearer lens for understanding the land and its peoples. The perceived differences that time has wrought are in many cases less than what might be expected. Yes, travel is now infinitely safer and less arduous than it was when Lewis documented it. Yes, the vast majority of the various tribes are now finally settling down in a peaceful co-existence. Yes, the Generals derailed the country for a half century and robbed the people of the optimistic future that Lewis projected -- and hoped for. But, Mandalay is still a ramshackle, dusty city. The Irrawaddy River is still a major arterial route connecting the forested north with the semi-arid center and the tropical south. And, the people -- despite poverty and depredations -- remain friendly, open, and welcoming.

Traveling to Myanmar? This, along with Orwell's Burmese Days and The River of Lost Footsteps by Thant Myint-U should be in your kit. All will provide a historical and cultural context for the change that is rapidly overcoming the land. Will likely never travel to SE Asia but still enjoy travel books such as Newby's A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush or Thesiger's Arabian Sands? Golden Earth should fit snugly next to those classics as well.
Author 5 books108 followers
September 16, 2014
There are so many very good reviews of this book I'll just second the statements that this is an extremely well-written book by someone who could write (he passed away in 2003), with a sense of dry humour that found just the right phrase to describe the scarey mongrel dogs that are still as common as gnats in Burma, and nights fighting off cockroaches encroaching on his turf. I read a library copy so couldn't tick my favourite expressions, but one was described the unappealing, gaudy local crafts on sale in a pagoda arcade perfectly in one word--"misguided". I've been to Burma 10+ times over the past 25 years and the products for sale and the observation hasn't changed one iota. Another truism, "apart from occasional articles of silver jewellery, woven cloth is the only article of artistic interest produced in the mountains of the Indo-Chinese peninsula [and that is disappearing as factory-made textiles become more available]." He summarizes, "Art is sometimes protected by poverty, and civilisation can be the destroyer of taste." That line I copied into my iPhone.

Other reviews have compared him with Theroux for such comments, but as that reader commented, he seems a less emotional Theroux, and the negative is balanced by descriptions of a nature so beautiful in parts, and people so gracious and giving that if the recipient feels (s)he has been given undeserved money or a gift, it is immediately marked to be given to the first available charity.

This is a lovely, albeit dated book of Lewis' backpacking, hitchhiking travels in a very rustic Burma of the 1950s, peppered with bits of history and useful information about the country, much of which remains true today although Myanmar in many ways is a very different country today. I only wish Lewis could return to update this wonderful book; it would be a page-turner.
Profile Image for Ryan.
Author 1 book36 followers
July 25, 2011
Liked the parts where he went upcountry through the wilder, less populated minorities areas, and also the slow river boat journey back down the Irrawady, reminiscient of Heart of Darkness, complete with mock attacks from indigenous natives (in this case rebels). Descriptions of cultural life and festivals of endless variety as well, though of less personal interest. Last 2 pages summarizes his positive view of the country's prospects, sadly things went badly in the decades after as the military junta rose to power.
Profile Image for Mark Walker.
519 reviews
January 25, 2014
Lewis is determined to discover the parts of Burma off the main thoroughfares. Some interesting observations on Burmese life and Buddism. He has a good eye for a surreal story and draws out a number of amusing incidents, such as the Rangoon express which doesn't go to Rangoon. Given the potential for opening up of Burma and loosening of the junta, this is a timely explanation of some of the ethnic groups and discussion of the Burmese approach to politics.
Profile Image for Keenan.
462 reviews13 followers
January 26, 2022
An adventurous tale of a British author trying to see as much of Burma (now Myanmar) as possible in the middle of a raging civil war (caused by a power vacuum left behind by none other than the British). We have our narrator combating bureaucracy, lack of transportation options, digestion, and cockroaches as he makes good on his quest. The writing alternates between flowery and effusive during the long stretches he has time to write with the matter-of-fact and terse style when he’s trying his best to move around in a country that would rather he stay still. Overall this account, while lacking in crazy tales, gives some interesting insights into the many cultures that live in this part of South East Asia, including Burmese, Shan, Kachin, and Karen, and on a more holistic side the operations of a country saturated with Buddhism and Buddhist principles. The book ends on a hopeful note about the state of the country which unfortunately has not come to pass.
Profile Image for Tom Bentley.
Author 7 books13 followers
November 16, 2015
Richly eccentric and fascinating work. Lewis insinuates himself into a 1950s Burma that is elusive, overrun with combative tribal and foreign forces, bureaucratic in the most head-scratching of ways, culturally distinct, layered, at times hysterically amusing and at other times incoherent and threatening. His language is as intrepid as his willingness to toss himself into a boiling pot of oddity. I just spent a week in Myanmar in much more refined circumstances—I wish I had Lewis's impulses to seek the uncommon.
Profile Image for Charles Yee.
25 reviews
December 17, 2015
The vividly descriptive book filled my mind with the scenic pictures and interesting characteristics of the Burmese people. Every inch a page turner, it gives us an insight into the history of Burma, its state of affairs and the relationships among its government, people and nature during the time before it was ruled by the military junta.
Profile Image for Flora.
299 reviews
April 22, 2012
Terrific. If you read this before you go to Burma. it might not make sense--the scenes are so strange. But I read it after returning and it was exactly right in feeling, atmosphere and observations. Lewis is my favorite travel writer.
Profile Image for Sarah Gregory.
320 reviews1 follower
May 8, 2018
A good travel book by a brave man. Like Colin Thubron, he likes to meet and talk to people gaining insights that way.
Profile Image for Paul  Kelly.
58 reviews1 follower
June 5, 2020
Burma, or Myanmar as the Junta renamed it in 1989, has come a long way since Norman Lewis wrote this travel journal nearly seventy years ago. A long way from the colonial times of the British Empire, the Japanese occupation in World War Two, a short period of independence and a long way in regression since 1962 when the military didn't like the winning candidate in elections and staged a coup d'e'tat.
Lewis' travelogue is much like his other pieces on travel ; he is the quiet and unassuming observer, willing to take risks and view parts others would likely as give up on as a bad day out. I don't know how badly things have changed in Burma since the Generals took over, but it appears that the Burmese are a stoical people from the descriptions in the book.

Post-colonialist Britain is all too evident when Lewis travels and meets many officious types and yet none hold a grudge to him being an Englishman; he is afforded all possible assistance by air, ramshackle rail, Irrawaddy river junks and cannibalised road trucks. The estimable hospitality of peasant peoples makes his peregrinations just that much more comfortable and without them life would have been a trial.

Since those seventy years have passed Norman Lewis may not recognise Burma now. The Junta bowdlerized former names that smacked of the past, renaming the country, former capital and indeed a wholesale transplant of the new capital to Naypyidaw. I gather that many nationals and opposition parties there are happy to call their country Burma as they were not consulted in its retitling.

Recent years have seen Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi turn from democratic heroine to pantomime villain during the Rohingya crisis in Rakhine province. So much have these people endured that I am sure Lewis would recognise their unflagging indefatigability if nothing else.
3 and 1/2 stars
Profile Image for Facundo Castro.
9 reviews3 followers
January 8, 2021
Superior “Récit de voyage” of N. Lewis in Burma during the first years of post-colonial struggles in south east Asia. Lewis wades through discomfort and bureaucratic red tape to travel by different means through quite diverse regions of what was at this time known collectively as Burma.
The writing is simple but complex at the same time, utilising quite a number of not-often used adjectives and synonyms. The author’s dry humor complements its refined prose to create a view of Burma which is melancholic but realist at the same time, the author being well grounded in the history and complexities of the region.
Lewis finds Burma reluctantly leaving their colonial past behind, and resuming the centuries long ethnic conflicts that are still going on as of today. The timelessness pace of life, orthodox buddhist spiritual practices and transitional cultural traits of this unique land are very finely transmitted by the author in vignettes and brief encounters with faceless characters, with the exception of a pagoda-builder monk.
Being aware of how the history of Burma rolled out in the decades after Lewis’s book, i read his optimistic ending prospect for the future of the country with a nostalgic feeling of a path not taken, a lost opportunity.
Profile Image for Zin Khant Aung.
49 reviews
April 14, 2020
This book was written almost seventy years ago. Lewis provides an honest account of his experience in Burma. Though the book can come across pessimistic at times it is ultimately a hopeful description of a country trying to stand on its own feet after colonialism.
Profile Image for Sarah.
827 reviews4 followers
March 25, 2017
Gentle travels in Burma.
Ex colonial world - so different. Lovely to get a perspective from those days.
Displaying 1 - 20 of 20 reviews

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