This cookbook, written in the early 1970s by ex-patriot Eugene Walter, is a perfect example of the attitude and execution of white cultural superiority in mainstream media. It was published as part of Time-Life Books' Foods of the World Series and has enjoyed a nice reputation for authenticity over the years. Walter returned to the south from his home in Italy to research this book. Reading this book today, the racial diversity deficit is remarkable. For instance Walter writes "More than anything, Southerners are bound by a shared attitude," which he illustrates with an example of the original Mardi Gras in his hometown of Mobile, Alabama, where the celebrants blackened their faces and galavanted around. Walter says "It is this role that the South elected to play after the war - lost cause minstrel, wearing a mask to hide the hurt of defeat." All that by page 10.
Of the multitude of work around the large plantation houses, Walter assures us that "there was a small army of servants," but when he describes Thomas Jefferson's gourmet table, the reader is left with the impression that Jefferson accomplished it all by his own hand and will. No mention of the enslaved people who actually did the cooking, serving, and cleaning.
Walter does allow for the African influence on Charleston, South Carolina's food, praising the "African cooks," but again, not acknowledging their enforced slavery status.
There is a chapter devoted to "soul food," but that emphasizes northern cooking.
In the end Walter does say of his return journey around the south "I had been made painfully aware of paradox: in a region of overwhelming natural riches, there was poverty unseemly in this country and this day and age," but will only admit to being "bored with all those old shibboleth and jingoistic prejudices that keep the human and natural resources from being realized." Then he returned to Rome, Italy.
There are plenty of other examples in the book of the clouded, narrow views of that era.
Again, I was struck by the fact that all this was planned and published by Time-Life, which illustrates the wide influence of the lost cause narrative.
Some of the recipes are interesting, especially for historical reference, but otherwise, we've all heard and read enough of this.