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The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat
The definitive book on schmaltz -- a staple in Jewish cuisine and a "thread in a great tapestry," by one of America's most respected culinary writers.
For culinary expert Michael Ruhlman, the ultimate goal in cooking is flavor, and for certain dishes nothing introduces it half as well as schmaltz. A staple ingredient in traditional Jewish cuisine, schmaltz (or rendered chicken fat), is at risk of disappearing from use due to modern dietary trends and misperceptions about this versatile and flavor-packed ingredient.
The Book of Schmaltz acts as a primer on schmaltz, taking a fresh look at traditional dishes like kugel, kishke, and kreplach, and also venturing into contemporary recipes that take advantage of the versatility of this marvelous fat. Potatoes cooked with schmaltz take on a crispness and satisfying flavor that vegetable oil can't produce. Meats and starches have a depth and complexity that set them apart from the same dishes prepared with olive oil or butter.
What's more, schmaltz provides a unique link to the past that ought to be preserved. "Schmaltz is like a thread that runs through a great tapestry," says Ruhlman's neighbor Lois, whose cooking inspired his own journey into the world of schmaltz. "It's a secret handshake among Jews who love to cook and eat."
For culinary expert Michael Ruhlman, the ultimate goal in cooking is flavor, and for certain dishes nothing introduces it half as well as schmaltz. A staple ingredient in traditional Jewish cuisine, schmaltz (or rendered chicken fat), is at risk of disappearing from use due to modern dietary trends and misperceptions about this versatile and flavor-packed ingredient.
The Book of Schmaltz acts as a primer on schmaltz, taking a fresh look at traditional dishes like kugel, kishke, and kreplach, and also venturing into contemporary recipes that take advantage of the versatility of this marvelous fat. Potatoes cooked with schmaltz take on a crispness and satisfying flavor that vegetable oil can't produce. Meats and starches have a depth and complexity that set them apart from the same dishes prepared with olive oil or butter.
What's more, schmaltz provides a unique link to the past that ought to be preserved. "Schmaltz is like a thread that runs through a great tapestry," says Ruhlman's neighbor Lois, whose cooking inspired his own journey into the world of schmaltz. "It's a secret handshake among Jews who love to cook and eat."
192 pages, Hardcover
First published August 13, 2013
5 people are currently reading
174 people want to read
About the author
Michael Ruhlman
45 books356 followersMichael Ruhlman (born 1963 in Cleveland, Ohio) is an American writer. He is the author of 11 books, and is best known for his work about and in collaboration with American chefs, as well as other works of non-fiction.
Ruhlman grew up in Cleveland and was educated at University School (a private boys' day school in Cleveland) and at Duke University, graduating from the latter in 1985. He worked a series of odd jobs (including briefly at the New York Times) and traveled before returning to his hometown in 1991 to work for a local magazine.
While working at the magazine, Ruhlman wrote an article about his old high school and its new headmaster, which he expanded into his first book, Boys Themselves: A Return to Single-Sex Education (1996).
For his second book, The Making of a Chef (1997), Ruhlman enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, completing the course, to produce a first-person account -- of the techniques, personalities, and mindsets -- of culinary education at the prestigious chef's school. The success of this book produced two follow-ups, The Soul of a Chef (2000) and The Reach of a Chef (2006).
Ruhlman grew up in Cleveland and was educated at University School (a private boys' day school in Cleveland) and at Duke University, graduating from the latter in 1985. He worked a series of odd jobs (including briefly at the New York Times) and traveled before returning to his hometown in 1991 to work for a local magazine.
While working at the magazine, Ruhlman wrote an article about his old high school and its new headmaster, which he expanded into his first book, Boys Themselves: A Return to Single-Sex Education (1996).
For his second book, The Making of a Chef (1997), Ruhlman enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America, completing the course, to produce a first-person account -- of the techniques, personalities, and mindsets -- of culinary education at the prestigious chef's school. The success of this book produced two follow-ups, The Soul of a Chef (2000) and The Reach of a Chef (2006).
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Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews
August 8, 2013
Schmaltz… a phrase that this reviewer has heard of, has associated with the Jewish community but never really understood what it actually is (nor was so inspired to check a dictionary). This book has changed that, if nothing else thanks to the sub-title of the book - (a) love song to a forgotten fat.
The author admits at the start that the use of schmaltz is decreasing in (North American) Jewish circles, not least due to health concerns where many attempt to cut out "unnecessary" fat from their diets. To quote the book: "My goal here is not simply to give schmaltz back, guilt-free, to the Jews, but to give it to American home cooks far and wide. Making use of chicken fat in your cooking not only enriches your cooking, it’s right from an economical and ethical standpoint as well, in that you make use of something instead of throwing it out (…) Your food will taste better and you avoid waste."
The author has cleverly managed to mix religious and secular information together into a harmonious being, making this an interesting read to any foodie irrespective of their religious affiliations. Jews may "get" more out of this book in one way, but a non-Jew cannot fail but pick up much interesting "foodie information" along the way too. It is interesting to note that the author is no lifelong authority on schmaltz either, admitting that he really picked up on things after hearing a neighbour wax lyrically about it, letting his relative ignorance to come to the fore and his inquisitiveness took over. This kind of book is really a wonder to observe as you can sense the author's own interest burn through.
Understandably this book is written from a U.S.-perspective, so it won't help you much to know where to obtain ingredients for making schmaltz in Cleveland, but the general information should allow you to source items locally as probably you will need to make your own schmaltz using the given recipe. The idea of having a detailed recipe to making your own fat (and other by-products) seems an alien concept in 2013 but it is strangely compelling to read, even if you never plan to make your own.
After this it is time to get cooking and there are a plethora of Jewish recipes that use schmaltz to great effect. In many ways this would still be a great cookbook even if you substitute schmaltz for another fat, although no doubt you'll be missing out on a taste "difference" in the process. To this non-Jewish reviewer, there are many recipes that one has heard of, have never tried and now one can see what goes in to making, for example, traditional chopped liver. Some of the recipes sound alien (egg and gribenes spread) to the uninitiated yet when you look at the excellent food photography and read the descriptive text you know you just have to try them.
The recipes themselves are fairly well written, descriptive and contain all of the key information that you will need. There is no assumption that the reader is Jewish and will know exactly what they need to do. A small, but welcome, touch that acknowledges that many Gentiles might be reading.
This is probably not a book for the real kitchen novice even though they stand to gain much by reading it. Many of the processes are quite involved but the end result can be something wonderful. For the foodie, this is one of those great books that you might never have considered you would have ever needed, but once you've had it in your hands it might be hard to imagine a time without it again. This might sound hyperbole, but should you be sceptical go to a bookshop and look at this book - there's a good chance that it will come home with you.
The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat, written by Michael Ruhlman and published by Little, Brown and Company. ISBN 9780316254083, 192 pages. Typical price: USD25. YYYYY.
// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //
The author admits at the start that the use of schmaltz is decreasing in (North American) Jewish circles, not least due to health concerns where many attempt to cut out "unnecessary" fat from their diets. To quote the book: "My goal here is not simply to give schmaltz back, guilt-free, to the Jews, but to give it to American home cooks far and wide. Making use of chicken fat in your cooking not only enriches your cooking, it’s right from an economical and ethical standpoint as well, in that you make use of something instead of throwing it out (…) Your food will taste better and you avoid waste."
The author has cleverly managed to mix religious and secular information together into a harmonious being, making this an interesting read to any foodie irrespective of their religious affiliations. Jews may "get" more out of this book in one way, but a non-Jew cannot fail but pick up much interesting "foodie information" along the way too. It is interesting to note that the author is no lifelong authority on schmaltz either, admitting that he really picked up on things after hearing a neighbour wax lyrically about it, letting his relative ignorance to come to the fore and his inquisitiveness took over. This kind of book is really a wonder to observe as you can sense the author's own interest burn through.
Understandably this book is written from a U.S.-perspective, so it won't help you much to know where to obtain ingredients for making schmaltz in Cleveland, but the general information should allow you to source items locally as probably you will need to make your own schmaltz using the given recipe. The idea of having a detailed recipe to making your own fat (and other by-products) seems an alien concept in 2013 but it is strangely compelling to read, even if you never plan to make your own.
After this it is time to get cooking and there are a plethora of Jewish recipes that use schmaltz to great effect. In many ways this would still be a great cookbook even if you substitute schmaltz for another fat, although no doubt you'll be missing out on a taste "difference" in the process. To this non-Jewish reviewer, there are many recipes that one has heard of, have never tried and now one can see what goes in to making, for example, traditional chopped liver. Some of the recipes sound alien (egg and gribenes spread) to the uninitiated yet when you look at the excellent food photography and read the descriptive text you know you just have to try them.
The recipes themselves are fairly well written, descriptive and contain all of the key information that you will need. There is no assumption that the reader is Jewish and will know exactly what they need to do. A small, but welcome, touch that acknowledges that many Gentiles might be reading.
This is probably not a book for the real kitchen novice even though they stand to gain much by reading it. Many of the processes are quite involved but the end result can be something wonderful. For the foodie, this is one of those great books that you might never have considered you would have ever needed, but once you've had it in your hands it might be hard to imagine a time without it again. This might sound hyperbole, but should you be sceptical go to a bookshop and look at this book - there's a good chance that it will come home with you.
The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat, written by Michael Ruhlman and published by Little, Brown and Company. ISBN 9780316254083, 192 pages. Typical price: USD25. YYYYY.
// This review appeared in YUM.fi and is reproduced here in full with permission of YUM.fi. YUM.fi celebrates the worldwide diversity of food and drink, as presented through the humble book. Whether you call it a cookery book, cook book, recipe book or something else (in the language of your choice) YUM will provide you with news and reviews of the latest books on the marketplace. //
November 18, 2017
The connotation of the word "schmaltz" (excessive sentimentality; banality in music or literature) has exceeded and nearly eclipsed its denotation (rendered animal fat). The Yiddish and German schmaltz entered English in the 1930s. Bless Michael Ruhlman for his effort to retrieve and restore schmaltz to its culinary dignity as a term for chicken fat slowly reduced with onions. He wrote The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat and persuaded his wife to take excellent photographs with which to illustrate the book. Ruhlman has also to overcome the mindless but ubiquitous notion that "fat is not good for you." Fat, as rational people know, is not only good for you but is essential to good health. With the assistance of a bubbe (Jewish grandmother) named Lois Baron, Ruhlman leads the reader through (1) the making of schmaltz, (2) the use of schmaltz in traditional Jewish cookery and (3) a few very-modern and distinctly non-Jewish recipes which include schmaltz. Ever had an oatmeal cookie with dried cherries made with schmaltz instead of vegetable shortening or butter? Don't knock it until. In the same way that Jennifer McLagan gets time off from Purgatory for writing Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes (2008), Ruhlman gets a jewel in his heavenly jewel box for adding this book to the many fine cookery books he has already written.
March 19, 2019
The recipes in here are excellent! But this is maybe the single worst organized cookbook I have ever read. Like, damn. All of the recipes are spread across multiple pages, there’s SEVERAL pages of unhelpful tidbits and buildups before you even get to a picture, let alone the ingredients. Even the steps for these recipes are spread across multiple pages. How is anyone supposed to cook from this book?
The layout designer apparently didn’t know you could change the font size in the body, let alone make inset panels for all the definitions and factoids. This book is oddly small in its dimensions, and the information inside is printed in like 18 point font with whole page pictures. The average recipe is probably about 7 pages total, and arranged in the least intuitive way I’ve ever seen. I’ve seen classroom cookbooks made by middle schoolers with better design. I’ve found hand written religious pamphlets on the ground that were easier to follow.
(Is this review too mean? The recipes are great but damn dude, this reads like the first cookbook ever written)
The layout designer apparently didn’t know you could change the font size in the body, let alone make inset panels for all the definitions and factoids. This book is oddly small in its dimensions, and the information inside is printed in like 18 point font with whole page pictures. The average recipe is probably about 7 pages total, and arranged in the least intuitive way I’ve ever seen. I’ve seen classroom cookbooks made by middle schoolers with better design. I’ve found hand written religious pamphlets on the ground that were easier to follow.
(Is this review too mean? The recipes are great but damn dude, this reads like the first cookbook ever written)
January 9, 2019
I really like that Michael Ruhlman will tackles subjects as specific as schmaltz. The complete use of all animal parts is a growing part of my cooking process. Although I am yet to try something with schmaltz, I am excited to give it try now. The recipes featured are jewish american in origin to start with some modern takes later in the book.
I gave this book 4 stars becuase of its extensive references to two other texts. I know it was based mostly on this neighbor's use of schmaltz initially. I think the recipes could have just referenced his neighbor. There could have been some background noting of the source just not so direct. I know that's specific but that what it is.
I gave this book 4 stars becuase of its extensive references to two other texts. I know it was based mostly on this neighbor's use of schmaltz initially. I think the recipes could have just referenced his neighbor. There could have been some background noting of the source just not so direct. I know that's specific but that what it is.
May 21, 2022
Jewish food has many sources; many cultures provided the basis of Jewish food classics. From North Africa to the Far East to Central Europe, Jewish food contains multitudes. The one secret ingredient that holds it all together is Schmaltz, rendered chicken fat (with onions, Ruhlman tells us). This is a brisk overview of schmaltz , with several recipes, both traditional and new. The fear of animal fats is slowly disappearing. This brief tome may make a convert out of you.
April 25, 2022
I can't imagine adding meaty fat to a chocolate chip cookies. Once I saw that ....
April 20, 2015
Great read! Interesting information about Jewish culture and culinary traditions are woven into Ruhlman's recipes and narrative. I liked that for each recipe, he provided a lot of context and description for how and when to make it, am what to expect and what changes can and can't be made. Made me want to make a lot of the recipes that are unfamiliar (and sometimes not visually appealing!).
He also describes a lot of classic cooking techniques in a very plain and educational terms, which I found useful and informative.
Wasn't a fan of the photos or styling but it was charming that it seemed self-published.
He also describes a lot of classic cooking techniques in a very plain and educational terms, which I found useful and informative.
Wasn't a fan of the photos or styling but it was charming that it seemed self-published.
November 1, 2016
I am a Jewish convert so I had never experienced schmaltz. A friend was telling me about it and gave this book to me as a gift. Every year I have a large Seder and the year I got this book, I decided I would make Schmaltz because my chopped liver recipe, from another friend, called for it, and since I just got this book, rather than buying it... Anyway...AMAZING! I think I added it to everything that Seder. LOL! I didn't make too many of the other recipes in this book because I struggle with weight, but that recipe alone would have been worth the cost of the book. Fun story to go along with how the author became interested in the subject, too.
May 8, 2015
Who knew that schmalz was a thing? Not me! I loved learning about Jewish cooking, but the non-Jewish recipes left me a little cold. I'll probably never do any of this cooking; way too complicated and a quick internet search reveals that cooking schmalz smells terrible. But I'm definitely going to Katzinger's Deli in German Village Columbus to try out some of these dishes, and maybe pick up a jar of schmalz. The pictures in this book were great!
Read
January 6, 2021-lots of good pictures. good instruction on how to make schmaltz, not a lot of recipes to use it. looks a bit of a pain in the ass to make. the instructions say to save up uncooked chicken skin and fat from about 4 chickens. chop chicken skin and fat really fine. cook and render out the fat being careful not to overcook. then it only keeps for a week. i think i'll pass.
March 14, 2015
Some delicious recipes here. Not the most healthy, perhaps, but as the saying goes "everything in moderation".
December 3, 2015
Nostalgic book- I enjoyed reading it.
Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews