Bonjour Blanc: A Journey Through Haiti

by Ian Thomson

An enthralling journey into the shadowy republic of Haiti. In the land of Vodou, zombies and the Tontons Macoute. In this classic account, history jostles with adventure, high comedy is touched with danger; and Haiti glows like a magic charm.

Now updated and with a new foreword by the author for the post-earthquake edition.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, History

416 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1980

About the author

Ian Thomson is an English author and journalist, best known for his meticulously researched biography Primo Levi: A Life and his controversial and acclaimed reportage The Dead Yard: Tales of Modern Jamaica. Born in London in 1961 and raised partly in New York City, he studied English at Pembroke College, Cambridge, before embarking on a career as a writer, translator, and teacher.
Thomson’s writing spans biography, travel, history, and literary journalism. His first major work, Bonjour Blanc: A Journey Through Haiti, was praised for its vivid and gripping portrayal of the country’s complex history and culture. His biography of Primo Levi, which took a decade to complete, has been widely regarded as the definitive account of the Italian Holocaust survivor’s life and won the Royal Society of Literature’s W.H. Heinemann Award.
His 2009 book The Dead Yard offered an unflinching exploration of modern Jamaica and received both the Ondaatje Prize and the Dolman Travel Book Award. In addition to his books, Thomson has edited collections, translated Italian literature (notably Leonardo Sciascia), and written for leading publications such as The Guardian, The Observer, and The Times Literary Supplement. He has also taught creative nonfiction and held fellowships at several academic institutions.
A Fellow of the Royal Society of Literature, Thomson continues to write and teach. He lives in London with his family.

Reviews

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thompson does a fantastic job covering a nation difficult for most outsiders to understand. Lots of historical details, presented in context to the places he's visiting (situation encountered), so that it's rarely dry or overwhelming; he goes off the beaten path often for stories in such remote areas even Haitians are daunted by his plans. Those reading the book for voodoo details might be somewhat disappointed - Thomson does get an entry to that "scene", though near the end, in basically one chapter. On the other hand, he does meet a zombie, doing a terrific job of explaining the background details of that "phenomenon". Highly recommended.

[Marc Lamot]

Good travel companion. The beginning is a bit old fashioned. Remarkable focus on voodoo. Outdated by now, I guess.

[Ellie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Not the best travelogue I've read. At times reads like a personal journal-- and not in a good way. Occasionally inaccurate or incomplete, it gives a broad overview of a good portion of Haitian history, but not enough to make it worth the read. The author sometimes falls into the familiar trap of writing about Haiti with a slightly superior air, and he doesn't do nearly enough to talk with or examine the lives of everyday Haitians, instead focusing mainly on priests, historians, locally famous "oddballs" and the like. The structure of the book also leaves much to be desired, as he bounces back and forth between points in his trip and Haitian history with no real sense of order.

[Priscilla Previl · Rating 2 out of 5]

This book is undoubtedly well written. The author writes with a historical understanding of his topic, and several sections provide very interesting bits of history that I didn't know about Haiti. For that reason, I gave the second star.

However, that is where my accolades of this book must end.

I am first struck by the dismal use of adjectives in the first chapter, but I assume that this is being used as a hook to bring the reader into what will be a fantastic story of the author's life-changing experiences in this amazing nation.

But alas, the midway point of the book was reached, and still not one positive thing was said about Haiti.

Yes, you read that right.

This entire book is full of negative, biased, west-centric views of a man who admittedly rejoiced when he was finally able to leave this place.

There is only one person, in this rather lengthy book, who is a black Haitian, about whom Thomson speaks favorably.

I'm actually astonished at his ability to single out what seems to be every single European, American, and non-Haitian (or at least mulatto) no matter where he goes. He engages in long conversations and develops friendships with anyone of lighter complexion, while the blacks are simply observed at a safe distance and with obvious disdain.

Then there's the horrid act of betraying the confidence of what he claims he was told in secret, and which he vowed to keep silent. Of course, he's a writer, so who knows how much of his initiation is fabricated, but that he would promise the people that he will not reveal their secrets, only to publish them in his book, that is horrific to me. And then in his revised version he adds to the afterward, his guilt for such action, and as "restitution" for said guilt, he goes to visit the Vodou museum where he reportedly left his hat? Seriously? He deceived and betrayed the (black) Haitians, so to make amends, he goes to the home of a dead white guy in a totally different area of the nation?

No wonder the president of the US (reportedly) and his followers (definitely) think it's fitting to use disbarring comments about such nations. With "writers" like Thomson who are happy to rape the local culture for their own literary success providing the narrative, you can't really blame them.

I live and work in Haiti. I came here for the first time in 2012 when the nation was still attempting to clean up from the 2010 earthquake, and in those 3 weeks I fell madly in love with this gorgeous, joyful, culturally rich nation. That someone like Thomson could spend five months in this country without even the slightest awe of the beauty and depth of the nature, people, and culture, can only be explained by his obvious disdain for the nation and the people he dares write about.

[Jane Routley · Rating 4 out of 5]

A grim but evocative trip around Haiti. Apparently Thomson stayed there a number of months and he clearly speaks French as well so you feel that you are getting a real insight. It’s a place I know very little about and I was amazed at how often it touches on world history. For a start it was the place Columbus landed when he discovered America. Its on the island of Hispanola and the pirate island of Tortuga is part of its territory. Grahame Green got kicked out of it for writing the Comedians, the great American ornithologist John Audabon was actually born there, Alexandre Dumas father was born there, Napoleon lost more troops there trying to quell the slave rebellion that he lost at Waterloo and Simon Bolivar got his funding for Venezuelas independence from it. It was the first black led republic in the world and its always been an important cross roads between old and new. Its so much more than the desperately poor, earthquake ravaged country of the news, which is always good to learn. At the same time as if the place has been cursed (perhaps for the early Spanish genocide of the Indians?)for it has rarely had anything approaching a stable government. But Thomson explores the poverty in detail, along with the voodoo. He even interviews a Zombie. I love the way Thomson combines history and reportage and the way he evokes the misery and his inevitable exhaustion with it without exhausting the reader. That takes skill.

[Barbara Sibbald · Rating 3 out of 5]

Part travelogue, part history, part social commentary, Ian Thomson delivers a brutally frank, often harrowing tale of his journey around Haiti. Nothing is left untouched: the horror of the prisons, the kindness of people, the horrid food and appalling accommodations. This is not a travel guide; it's a journey. And by the end (spoiler alert) he's fed up with it all.

Mind you, this set back in the early '90s. For tourists, the situation is vastly improved with club-med type resorts and very fine restaurants. Still, this is an interesting perspective.

[Marsha · Rating 5 out of 5]

if you like zombies, real characters, and history, this will not disappoint. From the brutality of Papa Doc to sinister priests and mormons, I was fascinated by every page of this book and can't believe no one ever recommended it up until now. This book is the reason I signed up to Goodreads.

[Jamie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This has to be one of the best books out there about Haiti. Even though it's almost twenty years old, the book gives so much insight into this fascinating country. I think anyone who loves Haiti, plans to visit Haiti, or just wants to know more about Haiti should read this book.

[Noah · Rating 5 out of 5]

Not ritten by the Haitian Ministry of Tourism