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Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry

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Lead in lipstick? 1,4 dioxane in baby soap? Coal tar in shampoo? How is this possible? Simple. The $35 billion cosmetics industry is so powerful they’ve kept themselves unregulated for decades. Not Just a Pretty Face chronicles the quest that led a group of health and environmental activists to the world’s largest cosmetics companies to ask some tough questions:

Why do companies market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use hormone-disrupting and carcinogenic chemicals that may contribute to that very disease?

Why do products used by men and women of childbearing age contain chemicals linked to birth defects and infertility?

As doors slammed in their faces and the beauty myth peeled away, the industry’s toxic secrets began to emerge. This scathing investigation peels away less-than-lovely layers to expose an industry in dire need of an extreme makeover. The good news is that while the major multinational companies fight for their right to use hazardous chemicals, entrepreneurs are developing safer non-toxic technologies and building businesses on the values of health, justice and personal empowerment.

192 pages, Paperback

First published October 1, 2007

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Stacy Malkan

5 books2 followers

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5 stars
167 (32%)
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195 (38%)
3 stars
117 (22%)
2 stars
23 (4%)
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8 (1%)
Displaying 1 - 30 of 83 reviews
9 reviews1 follower
February 11, 2009
This book is a must-read for anyone who uses soap, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, make-up and any other personal care product. It was a real eye-opener to realize that the seemingly benign and FDA "approved" chemicals in the products we use contribute to create a toxic load in our bodies.
Individually, each product may be slightly hazardous. In combination, these chemicals cause major health problems ranging from dermatitis to cancers, endocrine disruption, sterility and other unhappy illnesses. This book was a good read and gives an interesting background history on the Environmental Working Group's movement to make all cosmetic companies responsible to their consumers. They have even created a website to help consumers decide whether they wish to continue using their products, and to find safer alternatives. The best part of the book was seeing how empowered young American women have become to change their beauty regimens and demand safer cosmetics.
Many international companies, such as Unilever and Proctor and Gamble have already changed their formulations for their overseas markets because those countries have decided certain chemicals have no business in their populations and environments. Other countries, being armed with these same scientific studies and information have banned many products entirely.
My only warning is that once you read this, you will never be able to buy a product without looking carefully at the label- if you haven't already researched it on their website. I had to throw away a box load of nearly new (and expensive) products labeled "safe", "gentle" and "for baby" after reading their ingredients to find that they were filled some of the most horrific chemicals. I couldn't dump them and couldn't bear to pawn them off on my friends and or even the local homeless people. So I called the hazardous waste disposal people and had them pick up the box, dressed in their white hooded tyvek suits. It seemed like a fitting end.
Profile Image for Lis.
225 reviews
April 2, 2009
this short book reads a little like a grad school research paper or a long though informative pamphlet you might expect at earth day celebrations. she cites a lot of sources, which is great, and brings up the arguments against hers, which is very fair of her, but she doesn't entirely prevail against these. for example, regarding the argument that the harmful chemicals she speaks of appear in such small doses in cosmetics that they are not really harmful, her response seems to be summed up as "so?" her point is that they shouldn't be there at all. however, i felt like this book barely touches the surface of what she didn't exactly prove is a big deal, just that it may be. to set the record straight, i am all for using only purely natural ingredients. my favorite personal care products include ingredients which i understand and in many cases could even eat. i would love greater availability of these products, lower prices, and a shopping trip without extensive label reading. i am not sure if i only agreed with her because i already did before reading this. now, 'diet for a new america', even though i was already vegetarian when i read it, was eye opening and life changing, but this ain't no 'diet for a new america'. it alludes to facts (e.g., cancer cases increasing) but there is no line graph showing an increasing percentage of population with cancer year after year, in correlation with increasing prevalence of the chemicals she is saying may cause it. there are many questions left. her argument is that we shouldn't wait for answers when the answers may come in the form of dead bodies. great argument, but i'd like it if someone with more scientific (versus political) knowledge and expertise laid out the evidence, facts, trends, studies, etc. then again, this is a 150 page book, and maybe a lot of people never looked at a nail polish label at all, in which case this is a good intro. expect a story of political advocacy more than a guide to reading that label, though. maybe to find what i was looking for i should have looked in the science section of my local bookstore, instead of 'my cart' on the website of a company founded by what this book told me is a mental hospital escapee.
Profile Image for Aria.
553 reviews42 followers
December 21, 2018
DNF very early on. Am not against this type of movement for safer products, but it's not going to carry any weight w/ a nerd like me unless it's married to an actual understanding of biochem. So, no thank you. I can't give any credence to the content of this. Too much generic woo-woo. Not enough actual usable info. I mean, sure, companies are usually evil & all. No argument there. Beyond that though, this is kinda outdated now, & was really never going to hit beyond the that type that are all to ready to believe unscientific statements w/o critical assessment. I'm not saying that the beauty & cosmetic industry isn't full of bologna, but I also don't think that was news to anyone by the time this was published. Avoiding effective deodorants isn't going to help you move forward in life, so, you know, choices. This book isn't exactly providing the info you need to make those choices, though. A book that did so would be much more useful. To sum up, like I said, I arrived at the DNF early on (after a thorough scan of what remained to be sure I wasn't missing out on anything) & would not recommend.
Profile Image for Suzanne.
95 reviews3 followers
October 15, 2009
What an eye opener! This book gives in depth details about the toxic ingredients in the daily makeup, fragrance, and hygiene products that most women (and their families) use. It also exposes the resistance that major cosmetic companies have to reformulating their products with healthier ingredients. I find it appalling that the companies that produce the beauty products that contain carcinogens and hormone disrupters are the same companies that lead the public to believe they are breast cancer research supporters with their pink ribbon products. The good news is that the book shows how women, teenage girls, and non-profit organizations have been fighting for stricter FDA guidelines for the cosmetics industry.

While this book is very informative, they leave it up to the consumer to research which products are safe to use. The book Gorgeously Green and the website www.ewg.org go a little further to actually suggest the names of companies and products that use ingredients that are free from harmful chemicals.
Profile Image for Asia.
18 reviews
February 23, 2023
Ups, I forgot to upgrade this book. I finished it about a week ago.
This book gave me anxiety. Now, I can't put makeup on, without thinking of the chemicals I am exposing my skin to. Even though it's a great informative book, I wished the author would go more into detail about the meaning of beauty in our society and the impact it has, especially, on young people. Often it was hard to follow as it was overloaded with difficult terms and facts. However, Müller will probably not see me purchasing "chemicals" from their store any longer.
176 reviews
October 18, 2019
Would love to see an update on this book to know if anything has really changed since the original publication date.
Profile Image for Ashleigh.
33 reviews
July 25, 2022
The book is not very well written however very informative and eye opening. Recommend anyone to read this
Profile Image for Fallon Campbell.
88 reviews3 followers
May 5, 2018
Everyone needs to read this book, especially women. I'm so passionate about this subject it might have clouded my judgement about how well this book was written. Read ingredients lists, research companies before using their products, and don't trust marketing strategies that make us think a certain way about a product. But read this book either way
Profile Image for Loraine.
3,461 reviews
January 1, 2016
SUMMARY:

Lead in lipstick? 1,4 dioxane in baby soap? Coal tar in shampoo? How is this possible? Simple. The $35 billion cosmetics industry is so powerful they’ve kept themselves unregulated for decades. Not Just a Pretty Face chronicles the quest that led a group of health and environmental activists to the world’s largest cosmetics companies to ask some tough questions:

Why do companies market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use hormone-disrupting and carcinogenic chemicals that may contribute to that very disease?
Why do products used by men and women of childbearing age contain chemicals linked to birth defects and infertility?

As doors slammed in their faces and the beauty myth peeled away, the industry’s toxic secrets began to emerge. This scathing investigation peels away less-than-lovely layers to expose an industry in dire need of an extreme makeover. The good news is that while the major multinational companies fight for their right to use hazardous chemicals, entrepreneurs are developing safer non-toxic technologies and building businesses on the values of health, justice and personal empowerment.

REVIEW: Wow I must say this was an eye-opener and made me race to my makeup bag and personal grooming drawer to check it out. I was totally amazed at the number of items that had either no ingredients listed or did include those that are definitely toxic. Every woman should read this because it will amaze you at what toxic chemicals are included in everything from A to Z that you would find in your own, your husband's, your children's grooming items that could lead to cancers, birth defects etc. The cosmetic and personal grooming industry is totally unregulated and self-monitors! They are not even required to list the ingredients. Europe and Japan are regulated by a "do no harm" policy whereas the US follows a "prove there is harm" philosophy. Definitely a "mind opening" read.

My only complaint was that I wish they would have included a final chapter that listed products that were in compliance with higher standards and better choices for a consumer. I also found that several of the URL links were no longer valid that they suggested for information. It is a slower read unless you skip some of the chemical information that becomes a bit detailed for those not in the know.
Profile Image for Gemini.
416 reviews1 follower
November 30, 2022
What a book! This book is simply a must read. So get it now, give it your family & friends too. Although I knew about the toxic items in many of our products, this really goes through the ins & outs of the entire cosmetic industry. Simply daunting to see how many mega corps really don't give a crap about your health. Actually pathetic, really. These scientists tell them how it's bad for the public & then basically are ignored. The legwork that has been done over the years by the author & folks involved in the organization is simply amazing. Taking this to schools & educating girls is really important & should be done country wide. So all that goes into this industry is enlightening & inspiring. Such an informative book that makes you want to go up against these mega corps & contact your legislators of course, so change can happen & we can stop worrying about the toxic chemicals in our bodies.
46 reviews
May 2, 2015
This book was much less chemophobic than I was expecting. After witnessing firsthand some of the tactics that companies use to (1) avoid long-term consequences of using their products and (2) encourage less safe practices in the US than in other parts of the world, I thought the book was reasonably balanced in terms of promoting the consumer's right to know.

The book is starting to feel a little bit dated (a lot has changed in the last 8 years), and there were also a few places where the book veered into "every untested chemical is BAD", which I didn't apprciate. (For example, the MSDS for triethanolamine recommends using gloves, lab coat, etc when handling in a lab, but that's generally when using VERY high concentrations or neat preparations. Without knowing the specific concentrations its used at in personal care products (PCPs), this was a bit of a stretch for me.)
Profile Image for Alleigh.
7 reviews18 followers
March 3, 2011
"We are not expendable. We are not flowers offered at the altar of profit and power. We are dancing flames committed to conquering darkness and to challenging those who threaten the planet and the magic and mystery of life." - Rashida Bee

This book was not the easiest that I've ever read - not in that the writing was difficult to comprehend, but it was difficult to comprehend how ignorant I was previous to reading it. It was difficult to comprehend the anger that it fostered in me, that so many women are allowed to, no, encouraged to put toxic chemicals on our faces, in our hair, into our bodies, into our babies. Why is no one protecting us?

Protect yourself, make smart choices, ladies.
Profile Image for Katie.
24 reviews17 followers
June 30, 2016
I thought this book was very informative without being overly dry. I already use natural beauty care products and have been slowly fading out the products made by big giants like P&G and Estee Lauder. And I knew that chemicals like phalates and parabens were bad but now I know why. I would recommend this book to anyone looking to discover more about what their largest organ is absorbing on daily basis and how it affects the rest of the body. Its scary what mega companies can get away with because of the money they have to pay lobbyists.
Profile Image for Sara.
561 reviews197 followers
January 11, 2017
This is the first book I read about toxic chemicals and cosmetics. It is a VERY eye opener, helpful, informative and inspiring! though it included much repeated info.

I liked the first half of the book more, and as the book is 10 years old I'll look for new researches and studies, something must have been proved/changed through 10 years.

I highly recommend every girl/woman to read it.
43 reviews
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September 20, 2023
Oh yeah! Cosmetics are difficult now. I choose cosmetics very carefully because I know what chemicals can be there. I recently read Forever Flawless reviews ( https://forever-flawless.pissedconsum... ) and buy skin care products there from time to time. I hardly use cosmetics, but care products are important to me
7 reviews
August 12, 2009
Holy Cow!! Frightening facts about industrial chemicals in most of the products ALL of us use...yikes...check it out!
Profile Image for Magda.
8 reviews1 follower
July 29, 2018
Poněkud irelevantní v českém prostředí, pro regionální potřeby doporučuji titul Vít Syrový: Tajemství kosmetiky. Je i praktičtější. Doba jedová 3 je překladem americké knihy a zabývá se spíše tamním bojem za přírodní kosmetiku než praktickým vysvětlením toho, na co by si měl člověk u kosmetiky dávat pozor, jak a co nakupovat a co znamenají jednotlivé ingredience a jaký mají dopad na lidské zdraví. Jediné, co mi kniha dala nového, je vhled do toho, jak "svobodný" americký trh chrání spotřebitele daleko méně, než pravidla Evropské unie, která mnohé nevhodné látky, které jsou v USA volně na kosmetickém trhu, přísně zakazuje.
Profile Image for Kemi looves 2 read.
506 reviews6 followers
September 5, 2022
This book is a must-read for anyone who uses personal care products which is probably all of us. Challenge: take a count of how many you use between waking up to stepping out of the door: soap/body wash, facial wash, toner, shampoo, conditioner, moisturizer for body and then for hair, deodorant or antiperspirant, cologne or perfume, make-up etc. It was a real eye-opener to realize that the seemingly benign and safety agency "approved" chemicals in the products we use contribute to create a toxic load in our bodies. Even more interesting are the products banned in the EU that are either still in use or lobbied for continued use in the US, Canada, etc.
Profile Image for Elyse.
677 reviews
August 1, 2025
I listened to this on audio and unfortunately the narrator was so bland that I found myself tuning out a lot. It was a lot of information that I have heard before but I did love the concept of biomimicry! I think it’s so cool to see how nature does something and imagining how we may replicate it. This book also really inspired me to want to embrace my natural beauty rather than expose myself to a bunch of chemicals.
436 reviews
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September 9, 2019
Considering everything seems to be regulated these days, amazing to discover that the cosmetic industry was free to such oversights. The book & its research stats are is now over 10 years old. Hoping that some progress in regulations has occurred. Combinations of many of harmful chemicals placed topically on the skin day in & day out ....long term usage cannot be a good idea.
53 reviews
June 7, 2025
Written over a decade ago, Stacy Malkan's Not Just a Pretty Face can feel alarmist and one-sided at times, yet its focus on green chemistry and its hopeful conclusion make it a thought-provoking read and an insightful introduction to the beauty industry and its regulatory landscape.
34 reviews
April 21, 2019
This book made me change what products I buy for me and my family as well as what I put on my body.
Profile Image for Faith.
129 reviews1 follower
January 11, 2023
this book has a lot of great information but is so incredibly binary and a lot of it just feels dooming. if you’re interested in the topic i would definitely recommend!
Profile Image for Cristina.
1,019 reviews4 followers
March 10, 2025
Wish they listed the best natural products but they did provide sites to look up ingredients
Profile Image for Red.
17 reviews2 followers
June 8, 2008
Stacy Malkin is coming to Red Hill on June 20th at 7:00pm to talk about the ugly side of the beauty industry. She names names. Loreal, Redken, Avon, Mr. Bubbles, etc.

This is an important talk. Cancer is in epidemic proportions. Oncologists are throwing up their hands in disgust as industry is taking little responsibility for their ingredients which are comprised of carcinogenic elements, such as lead.

Journalist Stacy Malkin is Communications Director of Health Care Without Harm and co-founder of the Campaign for safe Cosmetics, a national coalition working to eliminate hazardous chemicals from personal care products.
Miss Malkin shows us how the FDA does not regulate skin products, how lead gets into lipstick and coal tar makes its way into shampoo. Why, asks Malkin, does the cosmetics industry market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use hormone-disrupting chemicals that may contribute to that very disease?

Stacy Malkin gives the cosmetics industry an extreme makeover with her book, Not Just A Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry, which has just won an important award in independent publishing.

For a true cosmetics makeover, Stacy Malkin shows how to put on your game face by knowing what the chemicals are so that we don't all get made up as guinea pigs.

QUOTE: As if there werent enough concerns about the toxicity of cosmetic chemicals, manufacturers are rushing to incorporate nanotechnology that uses particles 80,000 times smaller than the width of a human hair....Animal studies show that some nanoparticles can penetrate cells and tissues, move through the body and brain and cause biochemical damage.

http://www.notjustaprettyface.org/ind...
Profile Image for Staci.
2,308 reviews673 followers
December 6, 2014
This non-fiction book was published in 2007. I have to believe much has changed in seven years. Reading this book has only made me want to learn more about the current state of things. Are all of the products my family and I use safe??

This book was very good at opening my eyes to use of toxic chemicals in products we use everyday such as deodorant, hair spray and lotion. Not all manufacturers use toxic products. The difficult part is figuring out which ones do and which ones do not. As of the writing of the book, there were no standards in the cosmetic industry on levels allowable, when the label "organic" can be used, etc.

I also gained some history from reading this book, which I love. I learned the history of the pink ribbon campaign for breast cancer awareness, Aveda was sold to Estee Lauder and other interesting tidbits.

As a conservative, I'm not wanting to create a cosmetic monitoring department or make it more difficult for businesses. At the same time, I do want to be able to buy safe products and KNOW when I am doing so. I will be reading labels and asking questions of manufacturers as a result of reading this book. I will also be passing along what I've learned to others.

While the information may (or may not I really don't know) be dated, I do recommend this relatively quick read to any female.

I have given the book a three star because I would have like to have more included about the cosmetic industry's point of view to get a more complete view of the cosmetic industry. In addition, it would have been good to have more focus on safe products in the marketplace. Overall, a solid read.
Profile Image for DeAnna.
63 reviews8 followers
July 26, 2008
Wow, I am about 1/2 way through this book. It is pretty depressing. I am not big on personal care products, but it is forcing me to look at my hair care....not good.

The best part about it was finding the on-line database:

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/

This helps sort out the truth about the health and ecology of products, which is not always easy to tell by the labeling.

I may come back here and update my rating and review when I am done overall, my feelings about the book are very positive; my main complaint right now is that I feel as though the book is a huge assault of information, while the question always remains that we don't know what this level of exposure means for our health. After a few chapters of this, I am starting to feel numbed and overwhelmed.

OK, but the point is that these chemicals don't need to be in the products; they are doing no good for the environment or our bodies and many of these evil corporations are, yes, evil. They will only change if we force them. So learn about what you are using and at least your choices will be educated ones.

Fundamental to this is the bogus ideas that a better life and self-esteem can be gleaned through some public conception of beauty. How do we take that one down?
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