Marie Antoinette's Head: The Royal Hairdresser, The Queen, And The Revolution

by Will Bashor

Winner of the Adele Mellen Prize for Distinguished Scholarship and New York Post's "Must-Read" Book of the Week

Marie Antoinette has remained atop the popular cultural landscape for centuries for the daring in style and fashion that she brought to 18th century France. For the better part of the queen’s reign, one man was entrusted with the sole responsibility of ensuring that her coiffure was at its most ostentatious best. Who was this minister of fashion who wielded such tremendous influence over the queen’s affairs?

Marie Antoinette’s Head: The Royal Hairdresser, The Queen, and the Revolution charts the rise of Léonard Autie from humble origins as a country barber in the south of France to the inventor of the Pouf and premier hairdresser to Queen Marie-Antoinette.
By unearthing a variety of sources from the 18th and 19th centuries, including memoirs (including Léonard’s own), court documents, and archived periodicals the author, French History professor and expert Will Bashor, tells Autie’s mostly unknown story.

Bashor chronicles Léonard’s story, the role he played in the life of his most famous client, and the chaotic and history-making world in which he rose to prominence. Besides his proximity to the queen, Leonard also had a most fascinating life filled with sex (he was the only man in a female-dominated court), seduction, intrigue, espionage, theft, exile, treason, and possibly, execution.

The French press reported that Léonard was convicted of treason and executed in Paris in 1793. However, it was also recorded that Léonard, after receiving a pension from the new King Louis XVIII, died in Paris in March 1820. Granted, Léonard was known as the magician of Marie-Antoinette’s court, but how was it possible that he managed to die twice?

Genres: History, Nonfiction, France, Biography, Historical, Fashion, 18th Century

299 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2013

About the author

From Columbus, Ohio, Will earned his Ph.D. from the American Graduate School of Paris. In his spare time, he reads memoirs and researches the lives of royals and their courtiers. He hopes to share his fascination with the Bourbon dynasty and its quirky inhabitants and, at the same time, weave the historical record with creative fiction. He has written articles for the Huffington Post, Age of Revolutions, BBC History Magazine, France Today, and Carine Roitfeld’s CR Fashion Book.

His new novel, The Bastard Prince of Versailles, received a 5-Star Review from Readers' Favorites (by K.C. Finn):
Author Will Bashor portrays the intrigues of the 17th-century French court with fantastic detail and a passion for atmosphere, filling every page with rivalries, betrayals, and political maneuvering. The character of Louis is sensitively drawn, and readers witness his struggles with identity, love, and the demands of royal life. The Chevalier de Lorraine's manipulation and the gay society subplot add depth to the narrative, highlighting the complexities of sexual identity and society's prejudices of the time. As Louis is exiled and later given a chance at redemption through military service, the novel delves into themes of heroism and self-sacrifice with some deeply compelling emotional scenes that tug at the heartstrings and help us relate to human beings from centuries ago on a modern personal level. Overall, The Bastard Prince of Versailles is a compelling historical novel that not only entertains but also educates about a lesser-known aspect of French history, and I would not hesitate to recommend it.

Visit him at www.willbashor.com.

Reviews

[Will Bashor · Rating 5 out of 5]

To address the question of Leonard's possible "apocryphal" memoirs, I would like to provide the preceding notes to my book which explain the memoir's importance, and its limitations, for "Marie Antoinette's Head."

A NOTE ON SOURCES

Exaggeration and hyperbole always pose problems when constructing a biography, especially one that relies on centuries-old memoirs, letters, and secondhand accounts of events. Even government documents can be misleading when they are written in the midst of the type of regime and social change that took place during and after the French Revolution.

The literature on the Revolution is vast, but that which focuses on Marie Antoinette’s hairdresser, Léonard Autié, is somewhat limited. The amazing hairstyles were a big story in their day, with extensive coverage in the press, but little was written about the man behind these creations. Fortunately, Baron Lamothe-Langon published Léonard’s memoirs, "Souvenirs de Léonard, coiffeur de la reine Marie Antoinette," eighteen years after his death in 1838. The ghostwriter purported that he used Léonard’s journals and notes to achieve the two-volume work, but his critics claimed that it was apocryphal, embellishing the hairdresser’s role in history.

Nevertheless, I relied heavily on Souvenirs de Léonard, using its timeline and cast of characters. But, keeping its critics in mind, I also extensively consulted the court memoirs and letters of Léonard’s contemporaries to investigate any doubtful claims and resolve any conflicts. Any discrepancies are duly noted in this biography. Unless otherwise noted in the endnotes, the dialogue retrieved from the Souvenirs de Léonard is unverifiable because the work itself has been deemed unreliable in its original form. However, all dialogue has been transcribed verbatim from original sources, and dialogue from any French sources has been diligently translated into English. All references have been cited with endnotes and a comprehensive bibliography.

Since 1838, only Louis Péricaud and Gustave Bord have revisited Léonard’s story in any detail, focusing on his theater venture and his role in the royal family’s affairs, respectively in 1908 and 1909. Although this book addresses the famous hairdresser’s life and is not intended to be a reference in French history, it does shed light on the trials and tribulations of the last Queen of France from another angle—that of her confidant and coveted hairdresser.

[Susan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This enjoyable and informative biography looks at the life of Leonard Autie, the celebrated and famous hairdresser, who personally cared for the locks of Queen Marie Antoinette. Just when you thought that you had read every possible volume about Marie Antoinette and the French Revolution, this entertaining book comes along - which focuses on a minor player in events, but nevertheless one who found himself in the very heart of the action.

Leonard Autie arrived in Paris in 1769, as a young man in his mid twenties, armed only with his luggage and a "big bundle of vanity." Talented as a hairdresser, he felt he had artistic genius - he certainly had charisma - and he was "greedy for gold and fame." His parents were domestic servants in a small town, and Leonard's arrogance masked the fact that he was all too aware of his provincial status. Still, through a friend, Fremont, he was introduced to a young actress at the Nicolets Theatre. She was a minor and less than successful member of the company, but once Leonard had dressed her hair, she found herself a sudden sensation. The onset of sudden applause gave both her and Leonard newfound fame. It wasn't long before Leonard was introduced to the Court, where he became a favourite of Madame du Barry. Later, he witnessed the arrival of the young dauphine, Marie Antoinette, and eventually became her personal hairdresser.

This book has all the intrigue of Versailles, along with the Court's many excesses. Leonard's hairstyles were so elaborate that women risked their hair catching fire, or had to lean their heads out of the carriages on the way to attend the theatre or masked balls, in order to have their hair styled in one of his amazing creations. Eventually, limits were put on the size of a ladies hair if they were to attend the theatre, as the audience's view was obscured by his clients hairstyles. Working for Marie Antoinette gave Leonard success, but limited his work outside of the Court. Fearful of losing other custom through needing to be constantly available to Marie Antoinette, Leonard used his friend, Fremont, and his brothers, to make sure they could dress the hair of every noble lady who requested his services. Soon he was rich beyong his wildest dreams; he even merited a small apartment at Versailles. Yet, all was not as wonderful as it seemed. The Queen was seen as frivolous and sacrificed popularity for seclusion and lack of etiquette. Discontent was in the air and Marie Antoinette was targeted by those looking for change. Leonard was her almost constant companion during her years as monarch and one of her most trusted advisors. He was there during "the Affair of the Necklace" and he witnessed the revolution.

Although Leonard had a better understanding than most of the people's grievances, his heart "still broke for the royal family." During the years of trials and executions, Leonard remained loyal to Marie Antoinette. He undertook dangerous missions for the royal family and even acted as a spy. This book also follows his travels after the revolution, when exile from France led him to take his talents to many other countries, including the Court in Russia. As well as being a fascinating glimpse into the life of someone so associated with the French Court, this is also the story of Marie Antoinette, of the revolution and the aftermath, as witnessed by someone who was there. For anyone with any interest in that era, this is a wonderful read. The author really brings the period and the characters to life and it is also packed full of great illustrations, including some of the most bizarre and elaborate hairstyles you could ever imagine.

[Ariane Trelaun · Rating 5 out of 5]

loved this perspective. A great addition to anyone's Marie Antoinette collection - a great read, fresh, speedy!

[Jocelyn Huang · Rating 2 out of 5]

This review will be continue to be updated as I read further:

I received this book very quickly in the mail through a giveaway and was presently surprised.

Right off the bat, Marie Antoinette's Head discussed interesting topics, such as 18th century French cultures and dressing styles. (This may sound weird, but if you are a Jane Austen fan, I promise you, you will find this fascinating). As a huge fan of light hearted British literature (mostly Jane Austen), I am well-acquainted with upper to middle class Victorian British society, and was delighted when brought into the world of French society around the same time period.

Will Bashor also tells the story in a satisfying, narrative style, in 3rd person, but at the same time, blends it with historical facts and excerpts to make the book more enriching and intellectual without sacrificing writing quality.

The book is chock-full of fun pictures every 1-3 pages to look at! :)

My only concern is that the text was smaller than normal, distracting at first. I easily adjusted to this, but if you have bad eyes, an ebook version might be preferable.

[Anna Gibson · Rating 1 out of 5]

(review also published on: http://vivelaqueen.blogspot.com/2013/...)

[A review copy of this book was provided to me by the publisher.]

For anyone familiar with Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette, the idea of "Léonard, hairdresser to Marie Antoinette" will likely conjure up images of a well-dressed man catwalking down the halls of Versailles to the tune of I Want Candy.

Tradition has it that the real Léonard Autié began his career as a rural barber and eventually climbed to the highest rank imaginable for someone in his profession--hairdresser to the queen of France. But Léonard is something of a shadow figure in the history of Marie Antoinette, always shifting from story to story and never quite taking shape.

Marie Antoinette's Head: The Royal Hairdresser, the Queen, and the Revolution by Will Bashor is one of the few English-language publications that deals with the subject of the mysterious Léonard Autié. The book's press release describes it as revealing "Léonard's mostly unknown story, his impact on events at the dawn of the French Revolution, the role he played in the life of his most famous client, and the chaotic and history-making world in which he rose to prominence."

There is a thin line to walk when writing about historical figures who have not left behind numerous definite examples of correspondence or established memoirs or other contemporary artifacts related to their lives. Léonard Autié is one such figure. In 1838--eighteen years after Léonard died--a memoir titled "Recollections of Léonard, hairdresser to the queen Marie Antoinette" was published by Baron Lamothe-Langon. Gustave Bord, author of a Fin de deux légendes. L'affaire Léonard, attributes them to Louis François L'Héritie.

These ghostwritten memoirs are supposedly based on the "journals and notes" that Léonard left behind after his death. In the source notes for this book, the author admits that Marie Antoinette's Head relies "heavily on Souveniers de Léonard." While it is understandable that an author would need to use the memoirs to help construct a narrative in a book about Léonard, Marie Antoinette's Head relies too much on Recollections of Leonard and even contains noticeably rewritten passages from the original publication.

Here is a comparison between a passage in Marie Antoinette's Head and a passage in the 1912 English edition of Recollections of Léonard, available for free at Archive.org.

Recollections of Leonard(pg. 28-29):

"For the second performance of the new pantomime, I made Julia a head-dress even more extraordinary than the first; this prodigious edifice of hair, tinsel, imitation stones, and of everything else which came under my hand, could not have been put into a bushel-basket. Accordingly the actress was received with a crescendo of enthusiasm.

The Gazette had mentioned my masterpiece that morning, and in the evening a considerable portion of the higher bourgeoisie and of the nobility had flocked to the boulevard to enjoy so new a spectacle. At the door of the theater there stood a long, double line of carriages... Nicolet had never seen so illustrious an audience in his smoky house."

Marie Antoinette's Head (pg. 13-14)

"For the second performance of the new pantomime at Nicolet's, Léonard made Julie a hairstyle even more extraordinary than the first. The prodigious concoction of hair, tinsel, imitation stones, and everything else he had at hand, was so large that it couldn't have fit in a bushel basket. Accordingly, the audience again received the actress with a crescendo of enthusiasm.

The Gazette de France had only mentioned his first masterpiece in the morning edition. In the evening edition it revealed that a considerable number of nobility and higher bourgeoisie had flocked to the boulevard to enjoy the new spectacle. At the door of the theater stood a long, double line of carriages. In fact, Monsieur Nicolet had never seen such an illustrious audience in his smoky theatre."

A rewritten passage such as this is a significant disservice to the reader. It does not add anything, other than what the original memoir has already published, and I feel it is just not acceptable. Although this is one of the most 'extreme' examples where an entire passage appears to have been rewritten, there are other shorter passages (sometimes just a sentence or two) which also reflect this type of paraphrasing. (Please note I am not referring to dialogue which was lifted from the memoirs and used in the book, but--as in the previous example--the thoughts, words and sometimes even sentence syntax of the memoir.)

The primary struggle I had with the book's narrative, aside from rewritten passages, is that it tells the reader information from Recollections of Leonard and to an extent other sources--but it, far too often, does not show why it is telling the readers these things.

Take, for example, a passage about Axel von Fersen: (pg. 103)

"The count, who was also colonel of the regiment of the Royal Swedish Army, did not, in fact, love any of the women of the court; the brilliant officer was obsessed with a lady of more exalted rank: the queen herself.

Once admitted to the queen's circle, Fersen had such self control that nothing in his behavior, actions, or speech betrayed his secret. And Marie Antoinette, capvited by the charisma of the Swedish officer, could not help but love him. Her looks, and even her words, had been so encouraging that the colonel confessed to her that she alone filled his mind with thoughts of a love, albeit a "hopeless' one.

The queen's warm response was difficult to conceal from the courtiers. She even sent him a note that opened the secrets doors of the Petit Trianon to him. Despite these rather telling details, Leonard insisted that nothing dishonorable occurred between the two."

This passage stuck out to me because it asserts several things in a very short span: that Fersen did not love any women of the court, that Fersen was in love with Marie Antoinette, that Fersen's obsessive feelings were not revealed because of his "self control," that Marie Antoinette "could not help but love him," and that her looks and words encouraged him to confess his "hopeless" love to her.

However, the book does not back up these assertions with any evidence. Who found out about Axel's confession of love? How was it known that she "could not help but love him"? Where is this information coming from? The information, as it turned out, came straight from the memoir and once again in occasionally strikingly similar language.

While the book does occasionally note that the ghostwritten Léonard likely exaggerated certain instances (such as a claim that he rescued a half-dressed Marie Antoinette during the March on Versailles which would be right at home in a Dumas novel!) far too much of Recollections of Leonard is parroted as fact without contextual support.

There is an understandable hurdle when it comes to reconstructing the life of someone who has, in so many ways, disappeared from record. And the book does information from other sources, such as information about Marie Antoinette from Madame Campan's memoirs. But too much of the book relied (and in many cases, simply rehashed or rewrote) on the memoir's version of events.

Just as a history of Marie Antoinette's life cannot be written solely from the memoirs of Madame Campan, the history of Léonard (and those he interacted with) cannot be constructed primarily through a retelling of his ghostwritten memoirs.

[Lauren Stoolfire · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm so glad I decided to give this a try after seeing it pop up at my library. As much as this is about Marie Antoinette, it's also about her favorite hairdresser and the role he played in her life, her court, and in the aftermath of the French Revolution. I knew next to nothing about Léonard Autié, but he lived quite a life. This book is very readable and its a quick read. As fascinating of a historical figure as Marie Antoinette was, Léonard was just as intriguing in his own right.

[Badseedgirl · Rating 5 out of 5]

Per FTC guidelines this review for Marie Antoinette’s Head by Will Bashor is for a book received for free in a Goodreads.com First Read Giveaway.

I think it is only fair to start this review by admitting that the only things I knew about the French Court and the French Revolution before reading this novel was what I saw in Sofia Coppola’s beautiful but historically inaccurate movie “Marie Antoinette”. This being said I must also admit that Will Bashor’s novel Marie Antoinette’s Head was a wonder to read. Although this is the life story of Leonard Autie, royal hairdresser to Marie Antoinette’s court, his life was so tied to the French court that it is almost impossible to separate the two.

Mr. Bashor opens this world up to the reader in an amazingly detailed but easily accessible way. I was immediately drawn into the world almost from the moment I opened this novel. It is so well written that the reader feels like they are sitting on Mr. Autie’s shoulder observing the workings of the court. Mr. Bashor’s novel is a revelation. I could not put it down. It was written in a way that made it easy for someone completely uneducated in this period of time able to follow and enjoy the story.

My one complaint of the novel was that the font was rather small on this hardcover novel, and that meant I would at times reread the same line over again. This may actually be more of a reflection on my age and less on the font itself. Overall I must say this is one of the most original and well written biographies I have ever read. Not only do I plan to find more work on the french court, but I plan to seek out more of Mr. Bashor’s work.

[Dana · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm so obsessed with Marie Antoinette that I was very excited to win an autographed copy of this book from Goodteads' giveaway program.

I'm ashamed to admit that not once during the time I visited Marie Antoinette's childhood summer palace Schonbrunn in Vienna, her royal residence Versailles, or her prison cell chamber in the Conciergerie did I think about the person responsible for creating her famous hairstyles!  "Marie Antoinette's Head" focused on the creator of those famous poufs, a man who is largely unknown.  Leonard Alexis Autie was a man determined to be a star.  Arriving in Paris virtually penniless, his knack for creating insanely opulent and original hairstyles quickly made him a celebrity hairstylist.  The book focuses on Leonard's role in creating Marie Antoinette's famous style and also provides a biography of her life that reads very quickly.

It was especially interesting to see how Leonard influenced Marie Antoinette's changing hairstyles to ensure he continued to have a job.  Bashor attributes the change from the large pouf hairstyles to the coiffure a l'enfant to such a desire.  Leonard was also evidentially so trusted that Marie Antoinette asked him to retrieve jewelry and other items from her Petit Trianon after she was imprisoned during the French Revolution.  What I loved about this book was the clever writing, which made this an intriguing topic and interesting read.  Bashor's passionate writing brought what could have been a flat biography to life!  His word choice provides enough connection to the late 1770s without being overdone.  The paintings depicting the artistry of Marie Antoinette's different hairstyles was a great inclusion, and I also enjoyed the pictures of various other characters, especially Leonard.  My only complaint with the book was the tiny font in which it was written.

This was a great read for a Francophile like myself!

Read more of my reviews on my blog: http://fastpageturner.wordpress.com

[F. · Rating 5 out of 5]

I received this free book from the goodreads-first-reads giveaway. This book was wonderfully written and it was obvious the tremendous amount of work performed to provide an accurate description of the life of Leonard. I also enjoyed the journey through historical events and the color photos were an added bonus. I would highly recommend this book.

[Annina Luck Wildermuth · Rating 4 out of 5]

Highly readable and wonderful way to take in a big moment in history, through the eyes of Marie Antoinette's hairdresser. There are plenty of good pictures too.

[Nina Grafton · Rating 5 out of 5]

The hair is so famous. Even after so much time, it is ridiculed/wondered/marveled at. Meet the man behind the hair! From a royally amazing crest, to a crushingly disappointing wave at the end, this is quite the extraordinary tale and Will Bashor tells it very well.

[Gaele · Rating 5 out of 5]

There is something so intriguing and familiar about your trusted hairdresser, and believe it or not, Marie Antoinette had the same relationship with the flamboyant and talented Leonard Autie. This book is steeped in historical fact, it should read like a biography with footnotes, but it is so cleverly phrased and written that it reads much like an historical fiction.

Autie is outré and talented, a provincial background with parents who served as servants to the minor gentry in his hometown. Brazen and arrogant, the demeanor would have not worked had he not been so talented and determined to dress the finest heads in the land, he would have remained an obscure footnote in history. Yet his talent and connections brought him to the theatre to dress a lesser-known and lesser-talented actress, the change he wrought brought her instant attention, and raised his status.

Any lesser ego would have been daunted on introduction to Marie Antoinette: instead he crafted hairstyles so elaborate they demanded attention, and the wearer was instantly the talk of the town.
From dressing the ladies of the court, to styling the queen, Autie managed to be in the center of the gossip throughout the court: a self-preservation instinct honed to a fine point, he manages to avoid the appearance of ‘spreading’ rumor while gathering and sharing the information drops from the lips of those in his chair. There is a curious selective eyesight of the privileged of the day; whether it comes from the familiarity with being served, or seeing those who are catering to your every whim as invisible and less than worthy of regard: servants are invisible: see everything, hear everything and barely given a second thought.

While Autie could have been left unnoticed in the volumes of information he provides an engaging and captivating player in the events: from his close relationship as friend and advisor to the often petulant and difficult Marie, to his willingness to spy and gather information for the royal family before their demise, to his own great risk. Will Bashor took, what could have been a fairly dry, scholarly account of the events, and managed to bring a lightness and sense of Autie’s voice and demeanor to the story, making this history read a great entrée into the genre. Thoroughly researched and including illustrations of the hairstyles; some decorated with candles, jewels and birds. While my neck ached looking at the elaborate coiffures, the illustrations also reminded me of the over-decorated, gilt-laden furnishings that were created in the same era.

I received a hardcover copy of the title from the publisher for purpose of honest review with France Book Tours. I was not compensated for this review: all conclusions are my own responsibility.

[Margaryta · Rating 4 out of 5]

Firstly I’d like to say a big thank you to Will Bashor for sending me this book (and signing it!). I have always been interested in the identity of the hairdresser of Marie Antoinette as well as recently started looking into French culture more seriously, my interest sparked by my International Baccalaureate French course.

There is nothing I can criticize in this book. I really enjoyed the manner in which it was written – the writing was light, engaging, with some comical elements to it put in at just the right moments so that it kept my interest as well as amused me while being informative. I read reviews of other people, saying that this book isn’t accurate or whatnot. Perhaps it’s because they approached this book with a desire to learn the truth or expecting it. I took this one with a slight grain of salt, especially after reading the author’s disclosure and knowing myself just how tangled and difficult history can be in deciphering where the truth begins and where the speculations lie. Since I knew nothing on the subject I let the book whisk me away and dictate my reading journey, and it did a marvelous job with it. It read lightly, as I said, more even as fiction than a formal historical book. It was just the right kind of style for me, a person who doesn’t really enjoy historical fiction and finds formal history books to be somewhat dull and overloaded with their language and facts.

The images were another great addition to the book that really helped with imagining places and people (and let’s be honest, who doesn’t like having some beautiful pictures in their book?). There were times when the plotline got confusing, especially when the royal family was fleeing Paris, as there was some jumping between plotlines and information and it took a while for me to sort it all out, but otherwise there isn’t anything I can really complain about. It’s a book that deserves more attention, I think, because of the original manner in which it’s presented, and the unexplored topic that’s being discussed in it. Some of my friends saw me reading it during class in fact and said they were interested by the cover and synopsis, promising to take a look at it in the future (it also scored me brownie points with the French teacher, which is always a plus).

To anyone interested in French culture, the French revolution, or just like me wondered who the heck was behind all those hair masterpieces, this book is the way to go. It won’t fail to both enlighten and humour you, though a small packet of salt should be kept in mind during the reading, of course.

[Gina · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Marie Antoinette's Head" is a fascinating look into the life of Leonard Autie, the Queen's royal hairdresser and confidant, as well as the climate of royal France before and during Antoinette's reign. As someone who knew virtually nothing beyond what we learned in high school European History classes, and not having a particular investment in Marie Antionette, I was both surprised and delighted with how involved I soon became through reading this book.

What Bashor succeeds at through this book is making history beyond accessible for the reader. Although I did not have a particular interest in this part of European history, I found myself needing to know what would become of Leonard, whose dreams of fortune and climbing the social ladder at first seemed preposterous. But, through luck, hard work, and connections, Leonard eventually found himself tending to the locks of the mercurial and mischievous Marie Antoinette. This book is as much about Antoinette as it is about Autie, and in a way provides a riveting social commentary that is not lost on readers in thinking about today's "royalty"--celebrities--and the comparisons therein. I could not help but notice similarities between Antoinette's sometimes absurd yet awe-inspiring hairpieces and those of Lady Gaga....

What I appreciate so much about this book is that before reading it, I asked myself "Why should I care about a hairdresser?" The answer is for so many reasons, as Leonard would prove to be a major player, unintentionally, in the outcome of the revolution. The irony of Antoinette losing the very head that held Leonard's art is an obvious one.

Although not a major history buff, I was so happy to learn all I did through Bashor's book. Not only do I have a better grasp on French history as a result, as well as how people lived and thought, but I found myself laughing and appreciating the "little guy" in France's history. May every hairdresser be as influential.

[Lianne · Rating 5 out of 5]

I received a copy of this book from the author in exchange for an honest review. Additionally, I reviewed it as part of a book blog tour in promotion of the title. This review in its entirety was originally posted at caffeinatedlife.net: http://www.caffeinatedlife.net/blog/2...

Marie Antoinette’s Head was a fascinating read, providing a unique and fascinating look into Marie Antoinette’s life and the French court before, during and briefly after the French Revolution through the rise and fall of her hairdresser, Leonard Autie. The French Court in particular feels so cloistered and the paegentry involved so elaborate, the details featured in this novel really brings it to life, which also helps the reader understand a lot of the issues that sprung forth come the Revolution.

Following Leonard’s rise in the French court was just as fascinating. The details about the hairstyles were especially interesting to read; I never quite understood the craze of having the large hairstyles and the wigs and all so it was really informative to learn about them and its cultural place in France at the time.

Overall, Marie Antoinette’s Head is a fascinating read about the famous monarch and the man behind her extravagant hair-dos. The book itself reads like a novel at times and the information presented never feels like an overload. I learned a lot about French culture and the socio-political situation at the time as well as the fascinating figure of Leonard Autie himself. Readers of French history, cultural history and those just curious about the French court and the time of Marie Antoinette in the twilight of the French monarchy will want to check this book out.

[T.B. Markinson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Writing a compelling historical work is not easy. And I’ve read my fair share of duds back when I was in grad school. Yet, not all non-fiction is dry, boring, and crammed full of dates and names without any narration. Will Bashor’s book is a pure delight. I was intrigued by the concept: a biography on Marie Antoinette’s hairdresser. I’m a huge fan of everyday history and this means I wonder how the little guy survived tumultuous times. Leonard Autié was not a royal person. He was not born into wealth. This didn’t stop him from having big dreams during a time when people born without privileges didn’t get many chances to succeed or make a name for themselves. Leonard was ambitious, smart, conniving, an opportunist, lucky, and unlucky. Overall he was talented and brave when it came to styling hair. And not just any hair. His clients included ladies of the court and the queen of France. You have to admire the man for his gumption.

This biography reads more like a novel. This time period is full of suspense, intrigue, horror, and power struggles. Leonard was in the middle of it all. I was stunned by how involved he was. I wasn’t just impressed by the writing. Bashor has done extensive research, he asks the right questions, and he points out when historical records are sparse and gives credible explanations but doesn’t assert them as fact. Not everything about the past can be known and Bashor isn’t arrogant enough to force his ideas as more than ideas. However given his expertise and research it’s easy to see his point of view.

I highly recommend this book for those with an interest in history. And I have to admit, it’s the first biography I’ve read about a hairdresser. Everyday people matter in history. Bashor’s work is a wonderful example of this.

[Carole P. Roman · Rating 4 out of 5]

An entertaining and well written slice of life into the court at Versailles, from the perspective of the royal hairdresser Leonard Autie. The books goes into his background and his meteoric rise to the ultimate position- hairdresser to the doomed French queen Marie Antoinette. With his genius and insight, he is able to turn the drab teenager into an arbiter of style and fashion icon that changed the world of hair styles. Dealing with the queen's unsightly high forehead, he comes up with outlandish ways to hide it, creating crazy trends that further distanced royalty from the realities of growing unrest in the country. Using flour to color their hair, the royals inflame starving French people with careless waste. It seemed no matter what Marie Antoinette did, whether dressing to the hilt and wearing fabulous jewels or running around around like a shepherdess, she proved to be a public relations nightmare. Leonard Autie is the perfect mushroom, seizing any avenue to climb the social and financial ladder by association with the most important woman in the world. Marie Antoinette appears more like a fashion accessory to his life, rather than the definition of his own identity. Did he indeed save the Queen"s life? Was this an accurate accounting of tumultuous times in France, or the ego driven account of a hairdresser with an overblown imagination? I guess this is a real case that only her hairdresser would know for sure.

[Marcia Pastorek · Rating 5 out of 5]

Having read most books written about Marie Antoinette, this book really looks at the subject from a different angle. I especially enjoyed the fact that the reader gets to see what goes on in France during the royal family's imprisonment, and even what goes on after their death. The reader is made aware of the life of the émigrés, and what was being done to help out the royals. It is interesting to continue the story through Léonard, even up to the reign of Louis XVIII.

[Simon · Rating 5 out of 5]

I can't say I am a major fan of historical fiction which tends to be rather dull and laborious, but I was intrigued by the title and thought I would give it a go. I am glad I did because what I found was a highly entertaining account of a quite fascinating character. Very well written and clearly meticulously researched I now considered myself enlightened and will be looking forward to more reads by author Will Bashor.

[Kris Dickinson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful account from her royal hairdresser Leonard's view. I love reading anything about M.A. and this book just added to that. Beautiful pictures and chock full of historical detail, I recommend this to anyone who likes to read about that time period and/or Marie Antoinette. Thank you again to the author for sending me this wonderful book!

[Teri Holford Talpe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating and a good revision of the days preceding the French Revolution.

[Adam · Rating 4 out of 5]

As someone who is predisposed to hating hair as the focus of any scholarship, simply because I myself am genetically predisposed to having very little of it within the next few years, reading a book not only about hair but the most famous dresser of hair in history seemed like an interesting challenge. After all, Will Bashor has written 250 pages almost entirely about the relationship between Marie Antoinette and her hairdresser, a long-forgotten Frenchman by the name of Leonard Autie; the next challenge--the obvious challenge--would be to see how long a reader not especially interested in hair or its history would be willing to go before giving up.

Thankfully--surprisingly--Bashor's book reads less like archaic history and more like a Harlequin romance novel with academic citations. The historical figures featured in its pages are brash, haughty, vicious, pitiful, jealous, and sexually unquenchable. The circle of attendants who looked after Marie Antoinette was populated by what we'd today refer to as drama queens, ass-kissers, and backstabbers; more often than not, they saw their position in the palace in terms of their own futures, and any outsiders were a threat to their standing in the realm of wealth and power. Marie Antoinette herself is presented as a impulsive teenage girl who spurns queenly etiquette in favor of romping with young children, riding horses, and seducing her attractive and similarly-aged brother-in-law. (Though Bashor goes to great lengths to present this information only as it was recorded--that is, with great vagueness and couchings--the suggestions are clear.)

When we think of centuries-old France, especially the years leading up to its revolution--the years depicted herein--we like to think cinematically: powdered hair and faces, dainty movements, overblown fashions and lush architecture, and social customs so rigid that any lascivious behavior would seem almost impossible. (After all, conducting an affair of any kind would require quite a bit of clever manuevering, with bodies wrapped as they were in ridiculous layers of clothing.) As Bashor enjoys disproving, often through the pages of Autie's own journal, pre-revolution France--at least for those lucky enough to be upper-class--was a realm of wealth and debauchery more befitting Caligula-era Rome or 1970s New York City than the Paris of artistic fantasy and literary illusion. Had there been television in the 18th century, there certainly would've been cameras at Versailles, and the ensuing show would've been a resounding and entertaining success.

What gives Bashor's book its edge is how utterly unbelievable Autie's life seems, and the fact that such an unimpressive man holding such an unimpressive position--hairdresser to the queen--could scale to such heights, earning enough money and trust to build his own massive theatre and becoming recognized throughout France's upper class as a sort of social mark, speaks to just how illogical and other-worldly pre-revolution France actually was. We like to think of that era in terms of Marie Antoinette's "Let them eat cake" quote--a fallacious offhand comment that speaks to the royals' detachment from their starving, impoverished population--and Bashor's book proves their detachment was no historical distortion. But it also supports the cliche about never forgetting history lest we be doomed to repeat it. Autie survives the revolution--though Bashor is forced to reconcile with some accounts that say otherwise--but his attachment to the crown ruins him in France, and he never regains the status or wealth he possessed before the revolution, dying virtually anonymous and having spent the last few years of his life in an unnecessary government post...an eyewitness to one of history's most important events, dead and all but forgotten.

We live in an era much like the one depicted in Bashor's book, not so much for ridiculous fashion and hair, but for the gulf that is widening between the Marie Antoinettes and her hungry citizens. What Autie's skills represented all those years ago--status, wealth, prestige, connections--remains to this day, transformed over the centuries into material items that announce our class with much more permanence than a hairstyle: expensive foreign cars, McMansions, million-dollar works of art, lavish parties, expensive--even illegal--foods, boats, planes, political influence, wide tracts of land, and so on. It's the same sort of social preening and wasteful materialism that dominated the American landscape one hundred years ago, before the likes of Teddy Roosevelt and the Muckrakers were forced to reign in the ever-powerful industrialists, just as it did in 18th-century France.

These moments in history--not just American history, but world history--appear like the tide, covering the same ground as the last wave before receding back into the wide waters. And if we're not careful, if we let these waves reach too far into shore, we'll face a wave like the one that eventually brought France to revolution. Because once the gulf begins to widen between rich and poor--the haves and have-nots, the Marie Antoinettes and their citizens--it doesn't close back up on its own accord, only when outside influences step in. Usually those influences are public figures with enough clout and power to get legislation moved; sometimes, though, the responsibility for reversing the seemingly irreversible falls on the shoulders of the people themselves, whether or not they're unwilling. In those situations, the only unknown is what will serve as the catalyst for change. We'd like to think it's an outrageous overstepping of boundaries, an incredible violation of the law, a callousness that threatens thousands. However, it could just as well be the hair of a young and foolish girl.


This review was originally published at There Will Be Books Galore.

[Carolyn Harris · Rating 4 out of 5]

An excellent read, especially in tandem with Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the French Revolution by Caroline Weber. Bashor examines the life and hair-raising exploits of Leonard Autie, who rose from obscure origins in Gascony to become Marie Antoinette's hairdresser and confidant. Both the hairdresser and Marie Antoinette's milliner, Rose Bertin, became recognizable public figures in their own right and were nicknamed Ministers of Fashion, setting precedents for future celebrity stylists and fashion designers. I especially enjoyed the chapters about the Flight to Varennes, where Leonard acted as a secret messenger for the King and Queen and his brother may have unwittingly foiled the royal family's plan to flee France. Leonard had a long career after the French Revolution, styling the hair of the Russian Imperial family, including the murdered Czar Paul I for his state funeral. Marie Antoinette's Head is lavishly illustrated with images from the French archives of Marie Antoinette, her family and her famous hairstyles. Highly recommended.

[Kathleen · Rating 5 out of 5]

I hate to begin my review with a cliché, but Will Bashor’s Marie Antoinette’s head: the Royal Hairdresser, The Queen, and the Revolution is proof that in history there are true stories waiting to be found and told, stories which are more exciting and intriguing than fiction. Although aware of, and often envious of, Marie Antoinette’s extravagant hairstyles, I knew nothing of the artists behind such creations. Bashor brings to life Léonard Autié, from his arrival in Paris, through his triumphant reign over royal and noble heads, to his activities and international travels during, following, and as a result of, the Revolution, until such time as he returned to live, work, and die in his native France, in 1820.

Will Bashor has used predominantly primary sources, including a two-volume edition of Léonard’s own memoirs, drawing on his diaries and correspondence, published eighteen years after his death, the Souvenirs de Léonard, coiffeur de la reine Marie-Antoinette, by the Baron Lamothe-Langon. Bashor acknowledges that these memoirs were received by some with a certain scepticism immediately after their publication, which he acknowledges throughout the book. We also see Léonard through the eyes of members and employees of the royal court, of those who knew him, as Bashor uses their correspondence and accounts of life at and away from court to bring the drama of the time to life through the existence and adventures of one man.

I cannot recommend this book highly enough. Bashor’s knowledge of his leading man and of the times in which he lived shows that he has spent a long time researching. His writing style is clear, dynamic, and entertaining. I came away from reading the book with a deeper understanding of the complexities of life spent in service of the rituals of the French court, and a greater appreciation of its inhabitants, while at the same time being thoroughly entertained. Whether you want to learn more about the historical realities of the Revolution and those who lived through it, or want an exciting historical story, this book will meet your requirements perfectly.

Beginning the book with a description of Marie Antoinette’s last hours, highlighting her change of circumstances through the changes in her hairstyles, and, most strikingly, through the differences in the way she was treated by her previous and her final hairstylists, was an excellent decision. I expect most readers to be, as I was, ignorant of Léonard’s existence, and his introduction through the moving evocation of his most famous client’s final days reminds us that we are already familiar with his most visually-striking work.

A hairdresser is typically a confidant to his clients, and Léonard assumed this role in Marie Antoinette’s life. When in France, he did what he could to help the Royal Family escape, and when abroad, he sought to raise money to help them in their imprisonment. Léonard’s movements brings him into contact with famous historical characters of the time is a great opportunity for Bashor to weave into his narrative the lives of these people. I was particularly taken by Madame du Barry’s adventures following her departure from court, and have a whole new appreciation of her now.
Given the book’s title, you can justifiably expect rich descriptions of hairstyles, clothes, hats, make-up, and jewellery. You won’t be disappointed, and I hope that, like me, you will appreciate Marie Antoinette's Head: The Royal Hairdresser, the Queen, and the RevolutionWill Bashorhttps://www.goodreads.com/search?utf8... way in which such descriptions are used to clarify personal, political and social complexities throughout the story. Bashor very neatly demonstrates how Marie Antoinette’s choice of hairdresser, and their creation of new and daring hairstyles, upset the social order of the court, and how said hairstyles were used against her as proof of her neglect of the people of France. If you’ve seen Sofia Coppola’s beautiful film Marie Antoinette (2006), I recommend Marie Antoinette’s Head: The Royal Hairdresser, The Queen, And The Revolution for its explanations of what was happening under the surface of the film, thus enriching and giving substance to the film’s undeniably sumptuous superficiality.

Physically, the book is well laid-out and easy to read, in a clear crisp font of a good size. Bashor’s introductory notes on the use of titles at the French court was enormously helpful, and his inclusion of Léonard’s family tree helps the reader in the unravelling of the mystery of the hairdresser who died twice. The quality of the illustrations is excellent, having been drawn primarily from the Bibliotheque Nationale’s collections, and are used well to show the hairstyles and being created and to give us a look at characters as they are mentioned. The endnotes are perfectly placed so as not to distract from the book as narrative, and provide a great variety of references for readers who wish to learn more; the bibliography is similarly impressive.

[Johanna H. · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a very extraordinary take on historical nonfiction. For it has the feel of a novel.. an exciting novel that is, but never seems to lose it's authenticity which is a feat in itself. For the author seems to have made meticulous research about Leonard's life and that of the court of the 18 century and it looks like he didn't miss even the smallest detail in his story. This is a great biography, i was so fond of Leonard in the end that i held my breath through the last part of the book hoping for a happy end and his survival.
For Leonard's life and career resembles a fairy tale.. Coming from humble beginnings he achieves to get a job at a Theater in Paris where he soon rises to fame and not long after get's his first noble customer.
Again it doesn't take long until he arrives at court and soon ends up as the hairdresser of the dauphin and soon to be queen. Through Leonard we get a very intimate view of society in the 18 century and of court life behind the curtains. The personalities i read so much about became a little bit more alive while i pictured them crouching on the floor so their piled up hairstyles could fit in their carriages.. Later even going so far as to stick their hair out of the carriage window. Leonard must have had an incredible talent and a lot of charisma for him to turn so famous in such a short amount of time. Everything he touched seemed to turn instantly in fashion. This talent brought him far but there was also a darker shade to this story. For with every centimeter the hairstyles seemed to grow and go up the popularity of the nobility seemed to go down. Without Leonard court fashion wouldn't have been the same as we know it today. For every extravagant style he created he had to create an even more outlandish style wanting to improve himself and keep his popularity up. But all this happened at the worst time possible for the french monarchy. For in times of hunger for the french population the court seemed to turn even more extravagant, the dresses turned wider the hairstyles higher and more money was spent than ever. Later this turned a little bit down but not enough and by then it was already too late. For while the queen spend her time creating and spending money and time in her fake village trying to get away from court the population starved. This didn't made her a lot of friends in a time where her popularity was already very low. For the nobility still ate from golden plates while the peasant families struggled to feed their families. And even though what later happened was unnecessarily cruel one can still understand the anger the people must have felt. (But i still wish it could have been different)
Leonard was one of the few people who were allowed to enter the queen's private chambers. He was allowed to see the queen undressed, without make up and her hair undone. He was a companion of the queen and she trusted him, a trust she proved later in captivity. Leonard must have been very fond of the queen too for he was one of the few people that tried to help her in captivity which later fulminated in a sadly failed attempt to help the royal family escape. But there was one thing that this book showed me.. Ignorance. The french nobility was ignorant to the blight of the people, maybe they just didn't know, maybe they didn't want to but if the french nobility was one thing than ignorant of the misery their population had to go through. Their lives were just too detached from the rest of the world. They lived in comfort and were surrounded by richness and it probably didn't even came to their heads that the world they knew and loved could end one day because of their failure to see the need of their people. Leonard had a small part in the downfall of the french monarchy but it was just a tiny flame that fed the bonfire of the revolutions that must have been burning a long time already in the minds of the population until it exploded and spread out in the whole country. In the end we can't blame anyone. It could have been already too late at the start of Marie Antoinette's reign.. Maybe the french monarchy could have been saved if they just realised what happened a little bit sooner but probably not. We will never know.
And here we have me 300 years later who's thinking about a way the monarchy could have been saved.
The author gives us a story we all know too well through a refreshing new perspective. Leonard is someone we can relate too and even now 300 years later we find a trace of his charm while reading this biography.
He started humble and somehow with a lot of luck found himself on the side of the queen some few years later.
And somehow he achieved to survive the french revolution. I'm surprised no historian wrote about him before and i'm glad this author finally did. I would have given the book 5 stars but sometimes i had the feeling that the author strayed a little bit too far from historical facts and included too many of his own speculations into the story.. but never too much. For this i would like to give the book 4,5 Stars.. but sadly this is not yet possible so i resign myself to 4 stars. This book was a refreshing biography which read itself like a novel full of suspense (even though everyone knows the end beforehand).

[Heather · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic read! I have read many books on this time period and Marie Antoinette. Viewing this turbulent time period through the eyes of her personal hairdresser was wonderful. I knew of him before but not to the depths that this book went into, from his role in assisting the royals in their flight from Paris to how he worked his way rapidly up through Parisian society.

[Iñaki Tofiño]

When you thought that you knew almost everything that there is to know about the end of the French monarchy and the 1789 Revolution, here comes another hint of the life at the court of Versailles and their complete ignorance of the real world. In this case, the absurd role of the queen's hairdresser, his extravagant hairdos and his exorbitant prices... No wonder that the Revolution took them by surprise, they lived in another galaxy, even if Versailles is only 20 km from Paris.
The book is basically an adaptation of Léonard-Alexis Autié's 1838 memoir, Souvenirs de Léonard, coiffeur de la reine Marie-Antoinette, which can be found here, but it draws from many other sources, something which makes it a well-informed text. Interesting and easy to read, even if you have to refrain yourself from thinking "Off with their heads!" all the time when you consider how detached the royal family and the courtiers were from reality.

[Marie Z Johansen · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was browsing the "new non-fiction" stacks at the library when I discovered this book. I took it home not really expecting much since the time of French Revolution, as tumultuous as it was, is not really "my" taste in historical readings.

Imagine my surprise when I could not put this book down! It's a fascinating look at the French Revolution and the demise of the French Monarchy from the view of Marie Antoinette's hairdresser, Leonard Autie.

I have read my share of historical accounts of the last days of the Monarchy in France, and I have read even more about the life and death of Marie Antoinette, but this book managed to fill in some details that I had never known, and I learned a lot that I had not previously known. This book provides fascinating historical details that always manage to provide a broader picture of a particular time in history.

Leonard arrived in Paris in 1769 with nothing in hand except his "magical comb", a few francs and his ambition. He swiftly became the queen's hairdresser, hobnobbing with the powerful nobles of the land. In the years that followed his arrival as a penniless coiffeur, Leonard even had hopes of becoming ennobled himself.

It was Leonard who developed those towering head dresses that always seem to be a part of my collective image of Marie Antoinette. As I looked through the plentiful illustrations of this book (something I truly appreciated) I noticed that these outrageous head dresses manage to balance the equally outrageous fashions of the era, something that I had never considered before. Leonard became fast friends with the Queen's milliner and dress maker, Rose Bertin. I wonder if they planned it all in advance? The "too-wide-to-go-through-a-door" hoops in the dress in sync with the "too-tall-to-go-through-a-door" hair styles!

I had not known that there were actually three royal hairdressers named Leonard (nor had I had ever known the name of the person who created these towering hair styles for that matter). Leonard had also employed his relatives and all three were known as 'Leonard'. I had not known that one of these Leonard's actually had a hand to play in the Royal family's disastrous attempt to flee Paris. The book goes into some very interesting detail about the multiple calamities that doomed this chance at safety, there were so many things that went wrong with the planned escape. If even one of these things had gone right history might well have played out so much differently. The flight of the Royal family is one detail that I had, heretofore, not paid too much attention to, but I found that these details were riveting as I read this book.

This book is filled to the brim with fascinating, little known, information that is, obviously, the product of many long hours of meticulous fact finding and precise historical documentation.

I have often wondered what I would have done had been alive during either the American or the French revolutions. In the past I thought that I might have been more of a Monarchist, but after reading this book I think that I underestimated the reckless expenditures of the royals in France with the destitution of the multitudes. This was a French storm that had been brewing for a long time; similar, but also quite different, from the American Revolution. In hindsight it seems as if these tragedies were almost fated to happen.

The Royals knew no other life but that of wealth and privilege. They thought of money as an endless stream that procured their pleasures and pomp, while the general citizens knew only lives of dire, desperate, poverty that left many dead of hunger. The time of the French Revolution was a flood that washed away the foundations of every belief that had once been known as the law. By the time the Royals knew the extent of the problem it was already too late I think.

This book really helped me to see the Revolution in a very different light than I had previously. I thoroughly enjoyed this book, and it written in a very 'readable' style. As I said, I could not put it down!

[Alicia L. Johnson · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book which highlights (no pun intended) a little known character in French history. It's like reading a textbook but with opinions and explanations.

[Shoshanah · Rating 4 out of 5]

I think when anyone, myself included, pictures Marie Antoinette you think of her over-the-top hairstyles. Except, I never really thought about how they happened. Was she the one who wanted it done? Was she following the trend? No, it turns out her personal hairdresser, Léonard Autié, was the man responsible and this book is his story.

You wouldn't expect there to be a lot known about a hairdresser, and it seems that's actually the case. However Léonard did publish his own memoirs based on his journals which is where a lot of the information comes from. It is interesting reading a biography that includes quoted conversations between people, but the author clearly indicates that this comes from the memoir, and before that diary entries. Except when you write in your diary, and include quotes, how clearly do those quotes reflect actuality? That is a potential issue with this book, but it is one that the author is very upfront about.

Not too surprisingly there wasn't much about Léonard's early life. Although that was fine with me, because I thought it really picked up once he got to the court of Versailles. I thought it was fascination hearing why and how all of Marie Antoinette's hairstyles evolved. And I loved the intimate look and conversations we were able to hear of Marie Antoinette's from Léonard's perspective.

There is still quite a bit of story after the Queen's death, and while there is a lot here, I wasn't a huge fan of it. I did still enjoy parts, but overall there was so much going on, and so much politics with it all, that I couldn't quite keep up.

This isn't the first non-fiction book I've read about Marie Antoinette, but it is the first in a long time. There were definitely details I felt as if I was learning for the first time, or others that came back to me once I read them. For these reasons I do think that even if you aren't that knowledgeable about Marie Antoinette's time as queen you'll enjoy this. But if you are, you should still enjoy this since it's a from such different and somewhat unexpected perspective.

Disclosure: I was provided this book through France Book Tours. All opinions expressed are my own.