The library shelves are full of books about the Huguenots, and I chose this book for personal reasons. For one thing, my wife has ancestors who were Huguenots. For another, it’s non-fiction, written by a scholar. I began reading it on the planes to New York and then Paris. Unwittingly, in May 2024, I had taken a few photos of a certain equestrian statue on a bridge over the river Seine in Paris. Then I purposely took some more photos of that same statue just a few days ago. And at the Musee Histoire De Paris Carnavalet, I saw a display of some remnants from a broken statue, including a horse’s hoof. One Friday, we took a day trip by train to the city of Nancy, about 240 miles east of Paris, near the border of Germany. How do these dots connect? Let’s see.
My wife’s ancestors fled France after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. The Huguenots were Calvinistic Protestants who had been persecuted by Catholics since roughly 1550. Nine religious wars were fought during a period of 36 years. That led to the proclamation by King Henri IV of the Edict of Nantes in 1598. So, the Edict was officially in effect 87 years, although it was modified and reluctantly adhered to or purposely ignored by the majority Catholics at different locales at different times. As the years passed, the modifications became increasingly anti-Huguenot. King Louis IV, who believed in the divine right of kings, finally issued the Edict of Fontainebleau, revoking the Edict of Nantes.
When French Kings were crowned, they took the ‘oath of the kingdom’…”I shall be diligent to expel from my land…all heretics designated by the church.” Both kings, Henri and Louis, took the oath. How could one issue an edict that tolerated the Huguenots, while the other attempted to obliterate them? The book addresses this dichotomy in great detail, and I will briefly comment here only about King Henry IV.
His father, King of Navarre, near the border of Spain, was Catholic, and his mother was Huguenot. Henri was raised Protestant. When his father died, Henri became king. Then in 1593, he became King of France and had to abjure the Protestant faith--otherwise, he could not have become king. He was consecrated and crowned at Chartres in 1594. The following year, Pope Clement VIII granted absolution to him. Three years later, he had earned enough respect and popular support to be able to risk issuing the Edict of Nantes. At last, the Huguenots had some standing, albeit restricted, in France. But Henri IV was assassinated in 1610. The assassin was tortured and executed, his body mutilated in the horrible way prescribed for regicide.
As decades passed, King Henri’s reputation grew, and his reign was viewed as a golden age of peace and prosperity. He was the model monarch, “the great king.” His wife had an equestrian statue of him installed on Pont Neuf (Ninth Bridge) in Paris. There it stood until the French Revolution in 1792. To the rebels, he was just another one of France’s oppressive monarchs, and they destroyed the statue. Later, in 1818, the statue was replicated and erected in the same location—where I photographed it in 2024 and 2025. The inscription’s title in Latin is “Henrici Magni” (Henry the Great). Remnants of the original statue, including a horse’s hoof, are on display at the Musee Histoire De Paris Carnavalet.
After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, the diaspora of the Huguenots accelerated. Ironically, more Huguenots stayed than left. The author writes, “For many [emigrants] the destination would be Germany…” and also, “From Metz and Neuchatel refugees went to Germany…” Metz is 37 miles north of Nancy. Neuchatel is 177 miles southeast of Nancy.
We took the train from Paris to Nancy to see the city where my wife’s Huguenot ancestors lived and from which they fled to Germany. They were furriers. Those descendants in my wife’s direct genealogical line eventually migrated further to Maryland, then Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, California, and finally, Washington state, where we now live.
The first thing I did when I bought the Kindle edition of this fine book was look for Nancy in the index. It is not there. I decided to read the book anyway. Indeed, Nancy is not mentioned once. But I learned a lot about the Huguenots in that period of French history—enough to acknowledge the author’s scholarship with five stars. And also—very important—I obtained a lot of talking points with my wife!