I Chose to Climb

by Chris Bonington

I CHOSE TO CLIMB, first published in 1966, was Chris Bonington's first book. He was recognised then, as now, as one of the outstanding members of a brilliant generation of mountaineers, which included such personalities as Hamish MacInnes, Don Whillans and Ian Clough. Here he describes his climbing beginnings as a teenager as well as successful ascents all over the world: the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney, the first British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1962, Annapurna II in 1960 and in an unhappy expedition in 1961, Nuptse, the third peak of Everest. The first volume of Chris Bonington's autobiography is written with a warmth and enthusiasm that he has made his own. It tells of his climbing tastes and practice, and of family, friends and partnerships cemented over many years.

Genres: Mountaineering, Climbing, Nonfiction, Adventure, Biography, Travel

192 pages, Paperback

First published August 13, 1985

About the author

Chris Bonington was educated at University College School, London and the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst. He was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. He spent three years in North Germany in command of a troop of tanks and then two years at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor.It was during this period that he started climbing in the Alps, making the first British ascent of the South West Pillar of the Drus in 1958 and then the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south side of Mont Blanc in 1961 with Don Whillans, Ian Clough and the Pole, Jan Dlugosz. At that time this was one of the most difficult climbs in the Alps and even today is considered one of the great classics of the Mont Blanc region.He made the first British ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger in 1962.

Reviews

[chucklesthescot · Rating 3 out of 5]

This first biography of British climber Chris Bonington looks at his time doing National Service with the RAF before switching to the Sandhurst Military Academy and taking command of a tank regiment. He talks about his early climbing career in Britain and his first hair raising climbs in the Alps and it was kind of horrific to see all the dangerous things Hamish had them doing when Chris had little experience in that environment and I'm amazed they didn't get killed. Chris regards it as an opportunity to learn but taking such risks just seems like mass stupidity to me! Trying to do these climbs without the correct supplies and equipment and in dangerous weather is insane but they do it anyway. He also tries to find a way to hold down a job while spending as much time on climbing as possible. I did find this an entertaining read and went straight on to his second memoirs.

[Pauline Pavlova · Rating 4 out of 5]

Entertaining, makes you want to climb the routes. He makes himself sound very silly sometimes, just amazingly lucky that he met the right people at the right time.

[George · Rating 5 out of 5]

Chris Bonington's autobiography "I Chose to Climb" is an extract of his climbing life and climbing carer, the book also portraits Chris's passion and love for climbing. The reader is allowed to witness the growth from a teenager first climb on local cliffs with friends and family to climbing some of the worlds most dangerous and technical mountains and routes in the world. Not only are we as a reader are to witness triumphs, but some of the hardest decisions and experiences.

[Eugene Miya · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bonnington probably could never imagine his life and career after this book. He was able to become a professional adventurer in a Cold War era when that was unheard. He probably could never had imagined that he would have done as many expeditions, written so many books, and also lost so many of his friends over his life time.

This is an autobiographical text written when he was a successful young climber about his early decisions on life and career. They include his (and his friends) decisions to not stay in the military, get married, and most of the typical adult decisions (get a home) and then the less typical decisions to make a career in the media and adventure.

The time context was critical back then: the Cold War was on (he was not the only author to try to make a career as a writer, he just did it earlier than most). A person could be easily criticized in England most of this took place in the decade just following WWII. United Kingdom (one has to include Scotland) and Alpine geography may be confusing.

Perhaps the closest equivalent book is Lionel Terray with his book Conquistadors of the Useless or better in the French Les Conquérants De L'inutile (really, the English translation is a little flawed). The key word which separates AND links Terray to Bonington is Annapurna. Terray would climb (but not summit) and inspire Bonnington just over a decade later to write Chose. AND almost a decade after Chose, Bonington would re-jump-start a new generation of Himalayan climbing with his own expedition and book on Annapurna South Face: The Classic Account of Survival. But this is getting ahead of myself.

Terray had the advantage of being able to become a professional mountain guide. This is much harder for Bonington. Terray had the Alps nearby. Bonington had London. Boningtion might be easier to related to for urban raised 21st century readers looking to "find themselves."

Annapurna and Annapurna South Face deserve to be read chronologically together. The first opened up high altitude climbing exploration (proved it was possible) and the second brought us more up to date (both in a successful way but also in the sad nostalgic way ("Are there no more worlds to conquer?" in a Sheridan Anderson climbing cartoon)).

I won't spoil a prospective reader of I Chose to Climb by summarizing it (that was also too long ago). I gave some of the gist above. I've also now been to some of the sites of Bonington's climbs both in the UK and the Alps. The audience of this book is outdoorish with a tinge of what other urban people would call "insanity". This book is the precursor to understanding many of Bonington's subsequent books. This is not a book for every one.

"I Chose" is not a How-to book and it has minimal explanation of climbing terminology. It's not about the how-tos.

"I Chose" is a compelling title and this is a very good climbing book (noted on David Roberts' Ascent book review's list of best reads back in the 20th century). Not quite as good as Terray. As climbing books go, one has to be careful with Bonington's picture of climbing. Other non-English speaking people were doing incredible things during the same time period, most notably Reinhold Messner (only about 20% of his books have been translated (poorly unfortunately, too {better in time}) into English).

This book was one of my latter references in a high school paper of over 120 pages I wrote for a high school history class (hence the approximate completing it). I chose not to reread it as I'd chose of my climbs now.

[Rogue · Rating 5 out of 5]

What an inspiring book! One really starts to question how the author survived through all this madness... Written with an easy style and full of adventure, I really enjoyed this one- and I'll definitely look to pick up some of his other books. It seems crazy that the adventurers of old actually managed all they did, given the descriptions in this book- I certainly wouldn't want to!

[Thomas Brown · Rating 4 out of 5]

A concise, direct and engaging account of the earlier parts of his climbing career, with some great stories of particular climbs, especially on the Eiger. To feel like we got to know him better, it would need a more intimate focus I think, a bit more psychological insights- although it does have its moments for that here and there

[Aditya Sinha · Rating 5 out of 5]

One of the finest book i read in my early formative years which had deep impression on my mind and kept shaping my subconscious mind till "I Chose to Climb".
An easy read in simple language with which you can realte and visualise yourself in Chris's climbing shoes.
Happy Reading!
Aditya Sinha

[ChristinaJL · Rating 4 out of 5]

Reading this book as a teenager inspired me to take up climbing at university!!

[Kapil Yadav · Rating 4 out of 5]

I had a good week of rest and I have finished bonington's book. Time to head out again to world of mountains :)

[Jim Ewing · Rating 5 out of 5]

Absolute belter of a book. The first one I’ve read by Chris Bonington but I’ll definitely be reading lots more by him. Brilliant.

[Danny · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great read while working with Glacier Adventure. I am surrounded by climbers and mountaineers. It was a great read to keep me in the headspace of adventure. I like how he talks about his faults just as much as his skills. It was real. Hopefully, I can find his second memoir back in Northern Iceland. I am going to donate this book to Krystyna and the GA crew to keep at their HQ.

[Pauline Midwinter]

Not my cup of tea

[Ben G · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable read. Didn’t feel like the author was trying to show off. Inspiring and a good ending!

[Tina · Rating 5 out of 5]

Facinating read. What an incredible life.