Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time

by Adrian Miller

2014 James Beard Foundation Book Award, Reference and Scholarship
Honor Book for Nonfiction, Black Caucus of the American Library Association

In this insightful and eclectic history, Adrian Miller delves into the influences, ingredients, and innovations that make up the soul food tradition. Focusing each chapter on the culinary and social history of one dish--such as fried chicken, chitlins, yams, greens, and "red drinks--Miller uncovers how it got on the soul food plate and what it means for African American culture and identity.
Miller argues that the story is more complex and surprising than commonly thought. Four centuries in the making, and fusing European, Native American, and West African cuisines, soul food--in all its fried, pork-infused, and sugary glory--is but one aspect of African American culinary heritage. Miller discusses how soul food has become incorporated into American culture and explores its connections to identity politics, bad health raps, and healthier alternatives. This refreshing look at one of America's most celebrated, mythologized, and maligned cuisines is enriched by spirited sidebars, photographs, and twenty-two recipes.

Genres: Food, History, Nonfiction, Cookbooks, Food History, Cooking, Food Writing

333 pages, Hardcover

First published August 15, 2013

About the author

Adrian Miller is a food writer, attorney and certified barbecue judge who lives in Denver, CO. He is currently the executive director of the Colorado Council of Churches. Miller previously served as a special assistant to President Bill Clinton and a senior policy analyst for Colorado governor Bill Ritter Jr. He has also been a board member of the Southern Foodways Alliance. Miller’s Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time won the James Beard Foundation Award for Scholarship and Reference in 2014.

His next book, "The President’s Kitchen Cabinet: The Story of the African Americans Who Have Fed Our First Families, from the Washingtons to the Obamas," was published on President's Day, 2017.

Reviews

[Lorna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time was a wonderful history and the study of the West African diaspora first brought as slaves to the southern area of the United States followed by the postbellum integration to the northern and western states of America. Inherent in this history of soul food is the integration of available foods into their diet and often influenced too by the Native American and Mexican populations. I think the author Adrian Miller says it best:

"At its core, this book is a love letter to the past, present, and future African American cooks. The time has come for soul food cooks to take their rightful place in the pantheon of African American cultural performers. May they stand shoulder to shoulder with the athlete, the entertainer, the politician, the preacher, and the writer and receive the adulation they deserve."

"As black consciousness continued to rise, regional names like 'southern' and 'down home' for traditional food of African Americans no longer sufficed. It needed a new name, one defined by black people, and that would be 'soul food.'"

"But soul food had too many internal inconsistencies to overcome before it could endure as a national cuisine. The notion of 'soul food' glosses over the strong subregional food traditions among the blacks in the South and the ways that urban blacks outside the South had translated southern food in their new homes. People know the difference."

This book is extremely well-researched and heavily sourced throughout this most interesting history. It is also interspersed with delightful illustrations, photographs, and maps to add dimension to the experience. And there are also wonderful recipes to peruse and perhaps try. Right now, I am off to make a big pot of collard greens and black-eyed peas. While that is our usual New Year's Day fare to bring us luck in the new year, it sounds perfect after reading about all of this delicious soul food.

[Jahi "Providence" · Rating 5 out of 5]

Entertaining and educational...a cookbook and so much more! In the Black community "soul food" engenders many emotions, good, bad, and many degrees in between. This book gives us an historical look at soul food in the United States, its origins, what/where it is today, and where its heading.

[Kristi Holmes Espineira · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great scholarship & lively writing in this food history!

[Rebekah Pringle Yamada · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great approach and nice history of specific items within this tradition!

[Avalyn · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was educational but also inspiring. I forced my parents to eat the soul food meal I made from recipes in this book and they said they liked it!

[Gabrielle Morales]

Referenced in “Holy Ground: On Activism, Environmental Justice, and Finding Hope” by Catherine Coleman Flowers

[Heather Paladine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really interesting history, also recipes in each chapter, some of which I will actually try out. Four stars instead of 5 because nonfiction is always a little slow for me to get through.

[Jennifer · Rating 4 out of 5]

Includes recipes!! The oven fried chicken is now in rotation. Chapters feel like food biographies.

[Redsteve · Rating 4 out of 5]

Soul Food is a fascinating book on many levels, and covers a blank spot in my food history knowledge (I have to admit that, with some limited exceptions, my knowledge of North American food history pretty much stops at 1776). The author covers social, economic and scientific changes in foods eaten by “African Americans who left the Black Belt region of the south, settled across a nation and reestablished and reinterpreted the Black Belt South’s celebration foods in their new homes.” He actually goes back to food origins in medieval Africa (based on Arabic texts from the period), introduction of new plants and animals to Africa and then to North American and the Caribbean, the Middle Passage, the slave period, sharecropping, the eventual diaspora to the North (and eventually the rest of the US – with the attendant move to an urban enviroment), the linking of Soul Food to Black Power and the current (Soul Food was published in 2013) ambivalent relationship that “black America” has with Soul Food. I heartily recommend this book, both as a general text and also to learn about specific cultural factors – why the chicken is called the Gospel Bird, the white vs. yellow cornmeal conflict, the importance of red drinks, the sinful background (and eventual rehabilitation) of the fish fry and more. Note: in an attempt to cover a more specific culture, Miller deliberately did not include food traditions specific to the Lowcountry (South Carolina, Georgia), Creole (Gulf Coast) or Chesapeake regions – so, once again, there goes the one area (Creole) that I had some knowledge of prior to reading Soul Food.

[Summer · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book. It took a long time to read because it was chock FULL of facts. I learned something new on nearly every page. Did you know Macaroni and Cheese used to be confined to the fanciest of aristocratic tables? Did you know potatoes aren't native to Ireland? Did you know hot sauce was touted as medicine to ward off cholera?

It never would have OCCURRED to me to think of any possible West African spiritual connection to the redness of a red drink. I just assumed people drank red drinks due to their deliciousness. But what we consider delicious is complicated and informed by a million sneaky cultural factors.

Mr. Miller is a fantastic writer and exhaustive researcher. I must applaud the way he structures his book. Acknowledging that "soul food" can have blurry borders, he picks ten items of his personal preference and talks the reader through his meal one item at a time. He focuses on hard science and cites every source. (The bibliography is 25 pages long) He also entertains the reader with personal stories of his travels through kitchens and restaurants in modern day America.

I can't say enough good things about this book. If you have even the slightest interest in American history or foodways, you will love this. If you've ever read Michael Pollan, it's a no-brainer. The only criticism I can offer is they should have printed the pictures in color. I'm sure these black and white pics of pear cobbler aren't doing it justice.

[Pamela · Rating 5 out of 5]

Defining "soul food" is a task that others have attempted; yet a precise definition remains elusive. Author and "soul foodie" Adrian Miller meticulously and lovingly researches the complex history and traditions of this uniquely American cuisine. Miller compares and contrasts soul food with southern and down home cooking. He does this through planning a hypothetical, traditional soul food meal and then dedicating an entire chapter to each of its components. With this method, Miller weaves African American culinary history from West Africa, the Atlantic slave trade, the antebellum era, post Civil War poverty across the South, Jim Crow, the Great Migration, the Civil Rights era, to modern attempts to revive soul food. Other ethnic foods have found a niche in the American fast food and medium food markets (think Olive Garden, Applebees as "medium"). Yet soul food remains largely regulated to homes, church dinners, and small, local restaurants. Miller's last chapter is appropriately titled, "Whither Soul Food?" as he explores the future of soul food.
Yes, there are recipes at the conclusion of each chapter! This is an excellent history book with flavor. I recommend this for book clubs for adults and teens, as the meetings could include sharing of recipes from the book.

[David Ward · Rating 4 out of 5]

Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time by Adrian Miller (UNC Press 2013)(641.59296). Nicely done, Adrian Miller! You made this native white southerner's mouth water. I grew up eating the same foods that the author described so eloquently and so lovingly. When I was in my thirties, it suddenly dawned on me one day that I had been eating "soul food" all of my life, and that my family just called our daily cuisine (and cuisine of choice) "food!" Author Miller's most salient point is that the daily cuisine of black and white southerners converged in the 1860's during and after the War of Northern Aggression. I'm thankful that this is so. My rating: 7.5/10, finished 7/2/14.

[Colin Mann · Rating 5 out of 5]

Perhaps the best food history book I've read. For as detailed as it is, this book is completely engrossing - particularly if you enjoy soul food. It's a great examination of Black history via food, how food and culture become intertwined, and the rise and fall of soul food in America (although I like to think it is making a comeback). I'd be interested in a bit more of an expanded analysis of how cultural appropriation of soul food has contributed to how it is experienced by many people today but that may be for a different text. Looking forward to trying some of the recipes and will try to get out to one of Mr. Miller's events/presentation and his upcoming BBQ book.

[Cynthia · Rating 5 out of 5]

A wonderfully engaging look at the history and present of foods that came to define a culture. Miller's writing is warmly charming but thoroughly scholarly. He clearly both knows and loves his subject. Of course, like most good food histories, it teaches about more than food. The culture associated with the dishes described comes alive. Definitely highly recommend this book.

[Kristi · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really liked Miller's loving scholarly look at soul food, at what it is, at why certain foods are considered soul food and others aren't, and etc. Also I want to make pretty much every recipe in here. A win!

[Carla · Rating 4 out of 5]

Denver author.

[Farah · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.7 stars

This book had a lot of information in each chapter so I know I'm going to have to go back to revisit certain parts in the future! Also such an important topic to have a written history of and it was clear that he did a lot of research. I really appreciated seeing how much history could be gathered with old cookbooks as primary sources providing clues about certain foods! I had no idea that cassava, plantains, and maize were introduced to West Africa from the New World. I hadn't thought about how the foods that become representative of a certain type of food are often the food of celebrations. It was really interesting to see the ways different areas of the world influenced each other but also the back and forth between what were considered foods for the elites versus common food.

I didn't rank it higher only because it was a bit dense so it was definitely work to read it. I usually read hard copies of books rather than audiobooks but this was a book where I definitely felt like it was a shame that there was no audiobook as I've heard the author talk and he makes a subject that appears more dry on the page really come alive. I would love to hear him read this book and I think I would have retained more. I get why he also organized the books by food but my brain would have preferred the books to be organized by the bigger themes that then went into each food. But I guess that would be a different book.

Overall, appreciated reading this for my book club as I did not know a lot of this information and the history of food is always fun to learn more about!

[Monica · Rating 4 out of 5]

Entertaining, easy read about a very interesting subject.

The passion and knowledge of his subject demonstrated by the author were both deep and draw you along.

That said, it weirdly read to me as already a bit dated (even though it was published only in 2013) and sometimes got bogged down in the research. I found myself skipping ahead in places as it started to seem very academic. At times I was taken aback by they way comments about extreme brutality associated with the history of the foods (for example, a reference to the application of vinegared hot sauces to the fresh wounds of punished enslaved people to heighten their misery) were almost treated as mere asides. I think the academic treatment of this kind of material undercut the power of the social history it was uncovering.

The “one food per chapter” format was interesting, allowing one to go deep into a particular feature of soul food. All in all, probably more of a 3.5 for me, but if you love soul food or are interested in the history of southern food, more generally - especially if you haven’t yet read up on it - this is a great introduction.

[Jeremy Hornik · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good book. Basically a history of black people in America told through the plate. Maybe overlong? The author’s voice is sort of knowingly highfalutin... a little pompous, a little jokey, broadly winking at every drop into vernacular. But he’s done a ton of research, and he breaks it up with comments from restaurateurs and other foodies, and the device of breaking the book up dish by dish (with recipes!) sustained better than I feared it might. Between slavery, the diaspora, and the complicated cultural history of the US, there’s a lot of ground to cover, and if it’s not perfect, it’s ambitious and thoughtful and personal all at once.

Also: a tough book to read while I’m trying to lose weight. Welp.

[Emily Sinclair · Rating 4 out of 5]

I am partial to that strain of non-fiction books that delve into a singular topic (ex: Jane Brox's Light), so Soul Food was right up my alley. I appreciate the research and scholarship that went into the individual "biographies" of each food covered--the debate over yellow cornmeal vs white cornmeal alone has surprising relevance to present-day discussions about weaponizing the mundane in culture battles. It made for a surprisingly dense and heavy read at times. I am planning to try many of the recipes, though I wish Miller had included the recipe for a pear cobbler he referenced!

[DC · Rating 4 out of 5]

I truly enjoyed reading this. It is often touching and funny and a bit a poignant, and the ideas are expressed clearly and thoughtfully. I thought the photo illustrations were not great - there are several low-res, black and white photos of foods the author enjoyed on a tour of Soul Food restauratns (say it with me: JEALOUS - except, the photos won't make you feel that way). A better use of that space would have been pro photos of the included and completed recipes!

[Claudia Majetich · Rating 4 out of 5]

The author has a pleasant conversational tone, and there are lots of interesting tidbits of info. The book is comprised of a few introductory chapters, followed by several chapters covering one dish each (fried chicken, corn bread, etc.). The recipes at the end of each chapter are a great illustrative addition.

[Elizabeth · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent journey through a truly fascinating culinary history and on to current traditions. My religion students enjoyed the work on Fried Chicken and Church in particular; it created some good basis for discussion.

[Kathryn Gritts · Rating 4 out of 5]

Extremely interesting read, intermixed with history, opinion, and some humor (plus some recipes which I will definitely try). I enjoyed the book but sometimes got bogged down with the academics of the history. Lots and lots of information!

[Harriett Milnes · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book! Super well-researched.

[Margery Osborne · Rating 5 out of 5]

excellent and interesting

[Mindy Burroughs · Rating 5 out of 5]

An American history must-read. Well researched and thought out, strong tone and sense of storytelling. And will make you hungry.

[Alex Lei · Rating 4 out of 5]

it’s a good book about good food. give it a read.

[Mia]

read this for class so I’m not gonna rate it, but it was pretty interesting!

[Chris · Rating 2 out of 5]

A soul food book with no soul...