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How Patterns Work: The Fundamental Principles of Pattern Making and Sewing in Fashion Design
When you are trying to learn something new, the best teachers are often the ones who will walk you slowly through all of the basics in a way that is straightforward and easy to understand. It is this approach to learning that has lead us to create “How Patterns Work”, so that those who wish to learn pattern making can have a simplified and streamlined introduction to all of the fundamental principles that lie at the core of pattern making.
If you have tried to learn pattern making in the past and felt daunted by the complex drawings and measurements, or are a sewer who has felt ill equipped to make even the simplest changes to patterns, then this is the ideal book for you. We believe that by having a solid understanding of the basic terms and processes of pattern making then you will be able to make simple pattern changes yourself, and be able to apply the same ideas to more complex pattern changes in the future. No previous knowledge of pattern making is required. Chapters start from zero assumed knowledge and build slowly in complexity with step-by-step examples and clear diagrams.
Please note that this book does not include paper patterns and does not cover specific pattern or block drafting exercises from measurements. Instead, this book will provide you with an overview to simplify the way you think about pattern making, arming you with knowledge that can be applied to any pattern change.
As an introductory book, "How Patterns Work" has been designed to work as a companion alongside more complex pattern drafting books. In a way, the first half of the book is almost like a long form dictionary of pattern terms to help provide a thorough explanation of all the different features of patterns such as grain lines, seam allowances, darts and notches. All of the examples are discussed in relation to how the pattern will ultimately be sewn, so that the principles become more relevant to real sewn garments.
The first section of the book will answer questions such
The second half of the book shows a range of pattern making changes that can be learnt separately and can then be applied in different combinations to any garment patterns to suit your own pattern making needs. The reason why these pattern changes have been shown away from specific garments is to enable you to focus on the logic behind the pattern change, instead of becoming confused by the actual shape of the garment, or being distracted by working out body measurements.
All of the examples listed below are shown using both the cut and spread, and the pivot flat pattern making methods, and then also shown as a draped section of fabric on a mannequin, allowing you to really see the pattern changes as both a flat pattern, and in a more tangible 3D form. The examples that are covered in this section
While the book can often appear very simple, our approach has been that when you are really stuck and feel like you are not quite "getting it", then a longer explanation with detailed diagrams can help the idea to really click, making it easier to apply the same pattern change in future.
"How Patterns Work" has been designed with over 250 black and white diagrams and has a comprehensive table of contents for easy reference.
If you have tried to learn pattern making in the past and felt daunted by the complex drawings and measurements, or are a sewer who has felt ill equipped to make even the simplest changes to patterns, then this is the ideal book for you. We believe that by having a solid understanding of the basic terms and processes of pattern making then you will be able to make simple pattern changes yourself, and be able to apply the same ideas to more complex pattern changes in the future. No previous knowledge of pattern making is required. Chapters start from zero assumed knowledge and build slowly in complexity with step-by-step examples and clear diagrams.
Please note that this book does not include paper patterns and does not cover specific pattern or block drafting exercises from measurements. Instead, this book will provide you with an overview to simplify the way you think about pattern making, arming you with knowledge that can be applied to any pattern change.
As an introductory book, "How Patterns Work" has been designed to work as a companion alongside more complex pattern drafting books. In a way, the first half of the book is almost like a long form dictionary of pattern terms to help provide a thorough explanation of all the different features of patterns such as grain lines, seam allowances, darts and notches. All of the examples are discussed in relation to how the pattern will ultimately be sewn, so that the principles become more relevant to real sewn garments.
The first section of the book will answer questions such
The second half of the book shows a range of pattern making changes that can be learnt separately and can then be applied in different combinations to any garment patterns to suit your own pattern making needs. The reason why these pattern changes have been shown away from specific garments is to enable you to focus on the logic behind the pattern change, instead of becoming confused by the actual shape of the garment, or being distracted by working out body measurements.
All of the examples listed below are shown using both the cut and spread, and the pivot flat pattern making methods, and then also shown as a draped section of fabric on a mannequin, allowing you to really see the pattern changes as both a flat pattern, and in a more tangible 3D form. The examples that are covered in this section
While the book can often appear very simple, our approach has been that when you are really stuck and feel like you are not quite "getting it", then a longer explanation with detailed diagrams can help the idea to really click, making it easier to apply the same pattern change in future.
"How Patterns Work" has been designed with over 250 black and white diagrams and has a comprehensive table of contents for easy reference.
514 pages, Paperback
First published December 24, 2012
147 people are currently reading
384 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews
October 16, 2014
So, this is a textbook, of the most textbooky of flavors. It has chapters that tell you what you're going to learn. Then you learn it two or three ways. Then we review what we have learned.
The illustrations are clear and practical, and go through the concept under discussion cleanly and with no fuss. There is nothing extreme or extraordinary in the samples of what is happening, just sturdy workmanship.
I think this class would be easier if you had a dress form to work on, but it's not required. I really enjoyed the different methods as a way to really grasp the concept. That said, it feels really slow, sometimes, to go over and over a concept that you have already grasped. And the book is not much for thinking outside the box in ways to use techniques. For example, a full-bust style adjustment can also be used for bellies, but no one ever mentions it, and this would have added a lot to the value of the technique, to have specific ways to think about using them other than purely what is indicated by the name.
But that may be an invalid complaint. This is a book for pattern making, not fit and customization, and those are different disciplines, no matter how much I keep believing they are related.
Read if: You are looking for a clear, visual indication of how to draft pattern slopers and how the fashion industries thinks things get modified.
Skip if: You are actually looking for a book full of tips for how to fit a high round back and how to draft pattern pieces for large biceps. This is not that book.
Also: This is the type of thing that many people find it useful to use video classes for. I recommend Craftsy.
The illustrations are clear and practical, and go through the concept under discussion cleanly and with no fuss. There is nothing extreme or extraordinary in the samples of what is happening, just sturdy workmanship.
I think this class would be easier if you had a dress form to work on, but it's not required. I really enjoyed the different methods as a way to really grasp the concept. That said, it feels really slow, sometimes, to go over and over a concept that you have already grasped. And the book is not much for thinking outside the box in ways to use techniques. For example, a full-bust style adjustment can also be used for bellies, but no one ever mentions it, and this would have added a lot to the value of the technique, to have specific ways to think about using them other than purely what is indicated by the name.
But that may be an invalid complaint. This is a book for pattern making, not fit and customization, and those are different disciplines, no matter how much I keep believing they are related.
Read if: You are looking for a clear, visual indication of how to draft pattern slopers and how the fashion industries thinks things get modified.
Skip if: You are actually looking for a book full of tips for how to fit a high round back and how to draft pattern pieces for large biceps. This is not that book.
Also: This is the type of thing that many people find it useful to use video classes for. I recommend Craftsy.
June 2, 2015
I think his is a really great book for someone wanting to learn and understand pattern alteration.
January 28, 2022
I thought this book did very well at presenting the fundamental principles of patterns. A lot of the info in the first half of the book was very helpful, particularly the section about seam allowances and the different markings on a pattern. The second half was also very good, but very repetitive. I wish they had shown a few examples for each pattern technique of some different ways that technique could be used in real garments. This is a long book at 500 pages, but very readable and well presented - the text is not dense on the page so it goes quickly. I think some of the info that was so repetitive in the second part of the book could have been presented more concisely.
October 13, 2020
An easy read & quite repetitive in parts. It really is a textbook & not a book for reading straight through. All patterns are woman’s as well, although it does mention that the instructions are relatively simple for both men’s, women’s & children’s clothing.
March 31, 2024
Textbook, has illustrations but no photos. Not for specific fitting issues. General way to think about pattern design, conceptualize the geometries, etc.
Displaying 1 - 5 of 5 reviews