“Nomad’s Hotel” (2006) by Cees Nooteboom, translated from Dutch by Ann Kelland, is a collection of travel pieces by the Dutch novelist and travel writer. The places he visited in this book range from those most familiar to Europeans and Americans (Venice and Mantua, Italy; Munich; Ireland; Iran; and Zurich) to lesser-known countries (Gambia, Mali, and Morocco).
All of the chapters provided insight, but a few especially resonated with me.
The chapter “Lady Wright and Sir Jawara: a Boat Trip up the Gambia” tells of Nooteboom’s stay in the country of Gambia, situated on either side of the river of the same name. The country is 30 miles wide at its widest point. The official language is English, and the chief tourists come from Sweden. Who knew?
In “The Stones of Aran,” Nooteboom went to Ireland for the first time, in 2002; I made my way to Ireland for the first time in 2007. He wrote, “I thought of Ireland as a country where literature and poetry were held in higher esteem than anywhere else in Europe. But only recently were these notions confirmed when I discovered that all the seats on my Aer Lingus plane were upholstered in facsimiles of the handwriting of Joyce and Beckett, Wilde and Swift on a green background, and that nothing in Ireland was ever quite like anywhere else.”
Also of special interest to me was a 26-page chapter “An Evening in Isfahan,” in which Nooteboom spent weeks in Iran in 1975, inspecting Teheran, Isfahan, Yazd, and Persepolis. In Teheran, Nooteboom saw the modernizing Iran. In Persepolis, 655 km (405 miles) away, he stood in awe before the ancient Persia: the temples and graves of the great Persian emperors Cyrus, Darius, and Xerxes of 2,500 years ago.
Nooteboom’s visit came about four years before the Iranian revolution. Did he have any inklings of what was to come? He remarked that the Shah and Iran were doing well, but that could change. Nooteboom wrote, “won’t the opponents within the country, invisible right now, and those workers and academics who for a variety of reasons remain abroad, all at once become highly visible?” Indeed.
In the chapter “Musings in Munich,” written in 1989, Nooteboom ventured beyond travel writing to present a few intriguing musings about time. “Time itself, that weightless thing, could only go in one direction, no matter how you define it or tried to step on its tail – that much at least seemed certain. Nobody knew what time was, but even if you placed all the clocks in the world in a circle, time would still run straight on, and should there be a finite end to time it was not one that could be imagined by human beings without a severe case of vertigo.”
Nooteboom’s travel writing here combines acute observation, often quirky historical background, personal reflection, and sentences of great poetry. The book is a fountain of insight.