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Delhi By Heart: Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller
A sensitively written account of a Pakistani writer's discovery of Delhi
Why, asks Raza Rumi, does the capital of another country feel like home? How is it that a man from Pakistan can cross the border into 'hostile' territory and yet not feel 'foreign'? Is it the geography, the architecture, the food? Or is it the streets, the festivals and the colours of the subcontinent, so familiar and yes, beloved...
As he takes in the sights, from the Sufi shrines in the south to the markets of Old Delhi, from Lutyens' stately mansions to Ghalib's crumbling abode, Raza uncovers the many layers of the city. He connects with the richness of the Urdu language, observes the syncretic evolution of mystical Islam in India and its deep connections with Hindustani classical music – so much a part of his own selfhood. And every so often, he returns to the refuge of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, the twelfth-century pir, whose dargah still reverberates with music and prayer every evening.
His wanderings through Delhi lead Raza back in time to recollections of a long-forgotten Hindu ancestry and to comparisons with his own city of Lahore – in many ways a mirror image of Delhi. They also lead to reflections on the nature of the modern city, the inherent conflict between the native and the immigrant and, inevitably, to an inquiry into his own identity as a South Asian Muslim.
Rich with history and anecdote, and conversations with Dilliwalas known and unknown,Delhi By Heart offers an unusual perspective and unexpected insights into the political and cultural capital of India.
About the Author
Raza Rumi is an international development professional based in Lahore. He has worked for national and international organizations such as the United Nations and the Asian Development Bank. He also edits and writes for the Friday Times and contributes to leading national dailies in Pakistan and abroad. He blogs at Jahane Rumi, a website devoted to Sufism and the arts and cultures of South Asia.
Why, asks Raza Rumi, does the capital of another country feel like home? How is it that a man from Pakistan can cross the border into 'hostile' territory and yet not feel 'foreign'? Is it the geography, the architecture, the food? Or is it the streets, the festivals and the colours of the subcontinent, so familiar and yes, beloved...
As he takes in the sights, from the Sufi shrines in the south to the markets of Old Delhi, from Lutyens' stately mansions to Ghalib's crumbling abode, Raza uncovers the many layers of the city. He connects with the richness of the Urdu language, observes the syncretic evolution of mystical Islam in India and its deep connections with Hindustani classical music – so much a part of his own selfhood. And every so often, he returns to the refuge of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, the twelfth-century pir, whose dargah still reverberates with music and prayer every evening.
His wanderings through Delhi lead Raza back in time to recollections of a long-forgotten Hindu ancestry and to comparisons with his own city of Lahore – in many ways a mirror image of Delhi. They also lead to reflections on the nature of the modern city, the inherent conflict between the native and the immigrant and, inevitably, to an inquiry into his own identity as a South Asian Muslim.
Rich with history and anecdote, and conversations with Dilliwalas known and unknown,Delhi By Heart offers an unusual perspective and unexpected insights into the political and cultural capital of India.
About the Author
Raza Rumi is an international development professional based in Lahore. He has worked for national and international organizations such as the United Nations and the Asian Development Bank. He also edits and writes for the Friday Times and contributes to leading national dailies in Pakistan and abroad. He blogs at Jahane Rumi, a website devoted to Sufism and the arts and cultures of South Asia.
352 pages, Paperback
First published February 1, 2013
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May 8, 2017
As a Pakistani I feel that I am not lonely on planet Delhi.
Raza Rumi’s Delhi by Heart is a rambling, chaotic conversation with Pakistanis and Indians alike, all of them eager and willing to engage in lively debates. As Rumi walks through the streets of Delhi, talking about anything and everything, this book takes us along with him, meeting the people he meets, tasting the food he eats, and drinking in all the different versions of fact and fiction that define this city.
“Those who would have saved Delhi have allowed it to die because they believed that the city could survive even if their only concern was their own well-being. It was a fatal mistake. Cities are sensitive creatures. They have a soul.”
This book is exactly what it sets out to be: a conversation about Delhi. And while non-fiction has never interested me in the slightest, some of the parts in this book were so fascinating that I found myself constantly texting my best friend, pointing out all the parts I related to, all the new revelations about old, familiar things, and all the ways in which I was forced to look at the shared history of the subcontinent in a new light.
This sort of re-assessment, when you’re forced to look at things you thought you knew all about, is one of the most fascinating aspects of this book. Raza Rumi (whose last name made every single one of my acquaintances pick up the book with vivid interest), chooses his topics with the air of someone eager to understand and explore. Though hasty and sometimes messy, his account of his explorations are often imbued with a wide-eyed interest that is hard to resist. Whether he’s talking about the homoerotic undertones in Sufism...
The master-disciple closeness in Sufism cannot be fully understood from the ‘outside’. Rumi and Shams, Hazrat Nizamuddin and Khusrau, Sarmad and Abhay Chand, Jamali and Kamali, would appear as avant garde men of their times (as society did not take to them very kindly) for they expressed a particular same-sex intimacy, which may convey homoerotic undertones in contemporary studies of their relationships.
...or the numerous changes in music that have occurred over the previous decade, Raza Rumi retains an air of someone who has enough knowledge to carry on an interesting dialogue but nonetheless wants to know more.
This is the ‘Dard-e-disco’ phenomenon. The days of ‘Kabhi kabhi mere dil mein’ are perhaps over.
Another allure that this book presents is the deconstruction of Pakistan’s image itself. Because Pakistan and India were one for so long, it’s impossible to separate the history of Delhi without talking about Pakistan as well. In these situations, Rumi manages to wind his narrative around both the countries, connecting their languages, culture and history time and time again.
In Pakistan the secular khuda hafiz has been thrown out by Zia ul Haq’s Arab-centric Islamization, leading to a sort of cultural purge in the dear homeland. While life and linguistics have also changed in India, there are still little enclaves where the old world exists.
This is a constant repetitive theme throughout the book, the existence of history right alongside the present. Rumi comes back to this time and time again, talking about the historical relevance of the previous day’s architecture, languages, food, and music among other things. In this vein he also talks about the blatant manipulation of historical narratives by those with self-centered intentions - political parties, religious groups, nationalists, etc - or those who believe history has less to do with the truth and more to do with what the public needs to believe.
“Every country should write its history from its own point of view. Our history books have been written from a Euro-centric view because we are a colony for so long. History books should instill a sense of pride in the young mind and should be rooted in our culture.”
Horrified at this mistreatment of facts, Rumi quotes scholars, public figures, court records, textbooks and discussions about textbooks to explain how there has been a systematic battle fought for the right to decide who studies what version of history, and how particular groups are still fighting to prevent large-scale stereotyping of whole populations.
“History is not to serve as a handmaid of a particular school of thought. History must be impartial and objective. To rewrite history according to the views which are popular or which are necessary for bolstering up nationalist edoism or jingoism, is perversion of history.”
But Rumi’s historical account doesn’t just have to do with an era long gone by. In this book, the past is always lingering next to the present, in the places he visits and the people he talks to. Time and again he returns to the idea of how events of the past have shaped mindsets, grievances and hostilities in the present. And one of the most major events that appear in this book’s narrative is of course the 1947 separation of the subcontinent into India and the nascent state Pakistan.
Delhi was drained of 3.3 lakh Muslims and 5 lakh non-Muslims from the newly created ‘Pakistan’ rushed in. This was chaotic for the city… a City of Empires turns into a vast refugee camp reeling in the pre-monsoon heat and humidity of Lahore and Delhi.
All Pakistani and Indian students have studied about the events of 1947. No history lesson is complete without it, but it’s safe to say that the versions we’ve studied are different. In Pakistani textbooks, Hindus were wily, mischievous and prone to violence and destruction. One can only assume that Muslims are presented the same way in Indian textbooks. Rumi repeats what has so often been quoted everywhere: that both Muslims and Hindus were equally prone to terror and fear and the terrible, all-consuming confusion caused by the careless drawing of the boundary lines in 1947 which led to horrible acts from both sides. Repercussions of the acts of six decades ago still echo in current policies, tensions and the stereotypes that Pakistanis and Indians frequently indulge in.
The victims were also the perpetrators or at best, silent participants in the 1947 violence. What does it mean to inherit these ghosts and blood stains? They have so far, clouded rational judgements in the new states.
This collision between religions is at the core of all Indian-Pakistani relations (a fact regularly repeated at my home whenever my parents refer to all Indians as Hindus and I vociferously remind them that there is still a significant Muslim minority in that country). Raza Rumi uses this to explain how, at one time in history, Muslims and Hindus lived side by side together in harmony.
The intimate residence together, side by side, in the same city of Musalmans and Hindus, has brought about a noticeable amalgamation of customs and usages among common peoples
Of course, this doesn’t mean that all was always well and good. Such an intrinsic link between the two cultures meant that it was nigh impossible to separate one from the other, especially in cases of religious conversation. As Rumi points out, it is not always possible to remove your past in order to move ahead.
To be fully acceptable in Muslim society, a Hindu convert had to shed his Hindu identity and cultural moorings. But this was difficult and has remained unachievable. An intense cultural amalgamation was at the core of society and separateness was impossible.
Nevertheless, Delhi has a vivid and illustrative history of Muslim rulers which hugely influenced the spheres of art, architecture and language of the city’s society. This is portrayed, in part, by the still-surviving buildings of the Mughal era such as Humayun’s Tomb, Red Fort, etc. which dot the city’s landscape. In the same manner, multiple Muslim communities also exist within the city but sadly enough the state of the Muslim community in India is pathetic.
The 140 million Muslims in India have no credible secular leadership and, worst of all, no direction to move out of their ‘inner siege’...over 55 per cent of Muslims lived below the poverty lines within the national average of 35 per cent.
In these respects, another one of my ignorantly-held preconceptions were shattered when Rumi talks about the caste system in India. According to him, the caste system isn’t only restricted to Hinduism, as is more commonly believed. Other minority religions in the country including Muslims and Christians also practise it, partly because it is a deeply ingrained social system.
There is an unspoken agreement of the Dalit reality in India. The caste system, with a history of more than 3,000 years in India, has deepened the social segregation rooted in the dehumanizing principle of purity and impurity.
This revelation of the fact that Muslims in India also practise the system was juxtaposed by Rumi’s further comparisons of the caste system to Pakistan’s own system which creates classes of different orders based on occupation. So the janitor, sweeper, and cleaners are as clearly delineated in Pakistani system as are the untouchables in India.
Casteism is not dead in South Asia and India is not the only country where it persists. Pakistan’s hierarchy of biradaris and village society still maintains old divisions despite the Islamic faith and its emphasis on equality.
This idea, that things in both countries have less to do with religion and more to do with the prevailing culture is a common thread in this book’s narrative. This contradiction is apparent in even as basic a thing as the right to eat certain types of foods.
Despite the Hindu tents of vegetarianism, one sees defiant youth eating meat. The vegetarian identity is a construct at best and an inherited cultural rather than religious compulsion.
It’s these little tidbits of cultural observation that give this book its flavour. I could go on and on about Rumi’s conversations on language and the curse of Urdu’s poetry fading through translation, on gender and how Delhi’s past is largely defined by men, on cultural destruction and how preservation of heritage is not really emphasized much in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. All this scrutiny of the past and the present, both of Delhi as well as of Pakistan, provides us with an interesting account of the current times and the socio-political climate we live in.
Recommendation
At the heart of this book is a traveller, and Rumi makes no pretensions about how he is taken by surprise, time and time again, between the similarities in Delhi and Lahore.
I spot a gardener and ...ask him to name the trees. Most of them turn out to have the same names they have in Pakistan. I chide myself for my silly assumption that somehow trees would change their names if they were to move out of Lahore.
If one reads this book like a textbook, expecting proper topics arranged in order, then this is not for them. This book is like a diary where Raza Rumi’s every thought spills in tandem, coupled by facts and assumptions and a healthy dose of speculation, written by a person amazed by the city of Delhi. Only if we see it through Rumi’s eyes, willing to feel both sadness at the passing of time as well as retaining hope for the future, can one enjoy this book truly. Recommended not only for those who want to read about Delhi but also for history buffs, non-fiction fans and every Pakistani history student ever.
Original Update:
Oh my god this was a challenge to read! But the move from 'I hate all non-fiction' to 'this was quite interesting' is clearly progress. Review to come soon.
**
I review Pakistani Fiction, and talk about Pakistani fiction, and want to talk to people who like to talk about fiction (Pakistani and otherwise, take your pick.) To read more reviews or just contact me so you can talk about books, check out my Blog or follow me on Twitter!
Raza Rumi’s Delhi by Heart is a rambling, chaotic conversation with Pakistanis and Indians alike, all of them eager and willing to engage in lively debates. As Rumi walks through the streets of Delhi, talking about anything and everything, this book takes us along with him, meeting the people he meets, tasting the food he eats, and drinking in all the different versions of fact and fiction that define this city.
“Those who would have saved Delhi have allowed it to die because they believed that the city could survive even if their only concern was their own well-being. It was a fatal mistake. Cities are sensitive creatures. They have a soul.”
This book is exactly what it sets out to be: a conversation about Delhi. And while non-fiction has never interested me in the slightest, some of the parts in this book were so fascinating that I found myself constantly texting my best friend, pointing out all the parts I related to, all the new revelations about old, familiar things, and all the ways in which I was forced to look at the shared history of the subcontinent in a new light.
This sort of re-assessment, when you’re forced to look at things you thought you knew all about, is one of the most fascinating aspects of this book. Raza Rumi (whose last name made every single one of my acquaintances pick up the book with vivid interest), chooses his topics with the air of someone eager to understand and explore. Though hasty and sometimes messy, his account of his explorations are often imbued with a wide-eyed interest that is hard to resist. Whether he’s talking about the homoerotic undertones in Sufism...
The master-disciple closeness in Sufism cannot be fully understood from the ‘outside’. Rumi and Shams, Hazrat Nizamuddin and Khusrau, Sarmad and Abhay Chand, Jamali and Kamali, would appear as avant garde men of their times (as society did not take to them very kindly) for they expressed a particular same-sex intimacy, which may convey homoerotic undertones in contemporary studies of their relationships.
...or the numerous changes in music that have occurred over the previous decade, Raza Rumi retains an air of someone who has enough knowledge to carry on an interesting dialogue but nonetheless wants to know more.
This is the ‘Dard-e-disco’ phenomenon. The days of ‘Kabhi kabhi mere dil mein’ are perhaps over.
Another allure that this book presents is the deconstruction of Pakistan’s image itself. Because Pakistan and India were one for so long, it’s impossible to separate the history of Delhi without talking about Pakistan as well. In these situations, Rumi manages to wind his narrative around both the countries, connecting their languages, culture and history time and time again.
In Pakistan the secular khuda hafiz has been thrown out by Zia ul Haq’s Arab-centric Islamization, leading to a sort of cultural purge in the dear homeland. While life and linguistics have also changed in India, there are still little enclaves where the old world exists.
This is a constant repetitive theme throughout the book, the existence of history right alongside the present. Rumi comes back to this time and time again, talking about the historical relevance of the previous day’s architecture, languages, food, and music among other things. In this vein he also talks about the blatant manipulation of historical narratives by those with self-centered intentions - political parties, religious groups, nationalists, etc - or those who believe history has less to do with the truth and more to do with what the public needs to believe.
“Every country should write its history from its own point of view. Our history books have been written from a Euro-centric view because we are a colony for so long. History books should instill a sense of pride in the young mind and should be rooted in our culture.”
Horrified at this mistreatment of facts, Rumi quotes scholars, public figures, court records, textbooks and discussions about textbooks to explain how there has been a systematic battle fought for the right to decide who studies what version of history, and how particular groups are still fighting to prevent large-scale stereotyping of whole populations.
“History is not to serve as a handmaid of a particular school of thought. History must be impartial and objective. To rewrite history according to the views which are popular or which are necessary for bolstering up nationalist edoism or jingoism, is perversion of history.”
But Rumi’s historical account doesn’t just have to do with an era long gone by. In this book, the past is always lingering next to the present, in the places he visits and the people he talks to. Time and again he returns to the idea of how events of the past have shaped mindsets, grievances and hostilities in the present. And one of the most major events that appear in this book’s narrative is of course the 1947 separation of the subcontinent into India and the nascent state Pakistan.
Delhi was drained of 3.3 lakh Muslims and 5 lakh non-Muslims from the newly created ‘Pakistan’ rushed in. This was chaotic for the city… a City of Empires turns into a vast refugee camp reeling in the pre-monsoon heat and humidity of Lahore and Delhi.
All Pakistani and Indian students have studied about the events of 1947. No history lesson is complete without it, but it’s safe to say that the versions we’ve studied are different. In Pakistani textbooks, Hindus were wily, mischievous and prone to violence and destruction. One can only assume that Muslims are presented the same way in Indian textbooks. Rumi repeats what has so often been quoted everywhere: that both Muslims and Hindus were equally prone to terror and fear and the terrible, all-consuming confusion caused by the careless drawing of the boundary lines in 1947 which led to horrible acts from both sides. Repercussions of the acts of six decades ago still echo in current policies, tensions and the stereotypes that Pakistanis and Indians frequently indulge in.
The victims were also the perpetrators or at best, silent participants in the 1947 violence. What does it mean to inherit these ghosts and blood stains? They have so far, clouded rational judgements in the new states.
This collision between religions is at the core of all Indian-Pakistani relations (a fact regularly repeated at my home whenever my parents refer to all Indians as Hindus and I vociferously remind them that there is still a significant Muslim minority in that country). Raza Rumi uses this to explain how, at one time in history, Muslims and Hindus lived side by side together in harmony.
The intimate residence together, side by side, in the same city of Musalmans and Hindus, has brought about a noticeable amalgamation of customs and usages among common peoples
Of course, this doesn’t mean that all was always well and good. Such an intrinsic link between the two cultures meant that it was nigh impossible to separate one from the other, especially in cases of religious conversation. As Rumi points out, it is not always possible to remove your past in order to move ahead.
To be fully acceptable in Muslim society, a Hindu convert had to shed his Hindu identity and cultural moorings. But this was difficult and has remained unachievable. An intense cultural amalgamation was at the core of society and separateness was impossible.
Nevertheless, Delhi has a vivid and illustrative history of Muslim rulers which hugely influenced the spheres of art, architecture and language of the city’s society. This is portrayed, in part, by the still-surviving buildings of the Mughal era such as Humayun’s Tomb, Red Fort, etc. which dot the city’s landscape. In the same manner, multiple Muslim communities also exist within the city but sadly enough the state of the Muslim community in India is pathetic.
The 140 million Muslims in India have no credible secular leadership and, worst of all, no direction to move out of their ‘inner siege’...over 55 per cent of Muslims lived below the poverty lines within the national average of 35 per cent.
In these respects, another one of my ignorantly-held preconceptions were shattered when Rumi talks about the caste system in India. According to him, the caste system isn’t only restricted to Hinduism, as is more commonly believed. Other minority religions in the country including Muslims and Christians also practise it, partly because it is a deeply ingrained social system.
There is an unspoken agreement of the Dalit reality in India. The caste system, with a history of more than 3,000 years in India, has deepened the social segregation rooted in the dehumanizing principle of purity and impurity.
This revelation of the fact that Muslims in India also practise the system was juxtaposed by Rumi’s further comparisons of the caste system to Pakistan’s own system which creates classes of different orders based on occupation. So the janitor, sweeper, and cleaners are as clearly delineated in Pakistani system as are the untouchables in India.
Casteism is not dead in South Asia and India is not the only country where it persists. Pakistan’s hierarchy of biradaris and village society still maintains old divisions despite the Islamic faith and its emphasis on equality.
This idea, that things in both countries have less to do with religion and more to do with the prevailing culture is a common thread in this book’s narrative. This contradiction is apparent in even as basic a thing as the right to eat certain types of foods.
Despite the Hindu tents of vegetarianism, one sees defiant youth eating meat. The vegetarian identity is a construct at best and an inherited cultural rather than religious compulsion.
It’s these little tidbits of cultural observation that give this book its flavour. I could go on and on about Rumi’s conversations on language and the curse of Urdu’s poetry fading through translation, on gender and how Delhi’s past is largely defined by men, on cultural destruction and how preservation of heritage is not really emphasized much in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. All this scrutiny of the past and the present, both of Delhi as well as of Pakistan, provides us with an interesting account of the current times and the socio-political climate we live in.
Recommendation
At the heart of this book is a traveller, and Rumi makes no pretensions about how he is taken by surprise, time and time again, between the similarities in Delhi and Lahore.
I spot a gardener and ...ask him to name the trees. Most of them turn out to have the same names they have in Pakistan. I chide myself for my silly assumption that somehow trees would change their names if they were to move out of Lahore.
If one reads this book like a textbook, expecting proper topics arranged in order, then this is not for them. This book is like a diary where Raza Rumi’s every thought spills in tandem, coupled by facts and assumptions and a healthy dose of speculation, written by a person amazed by the city of Delhi. Only if we see it through Rumi’s eyes, willing to feel both sadness at the passing of time as well as retaining hope for the future, can one enjoy this book truly. Recommended not only for those who want to read about Delhi but also for history buffs, non-fiction fans and every Pakistani history student ever.
Original Update:
Oh my god this was a challenge to read! But the move from 'I hate all non-fiction' to 'this was quite interesting' is clearly progress. Review to come soon.
**
I review Pakistani Fiction, and talk about Pakistani fiction, and want to talk to people who like to talk about fiction (Pakistani and otherwise, take your pick.) To read more reviews or just contact me so you can talk about books, check out my Blog or follow me on Twitter!
September 17, 2025
'Dilli ke kuche na thay auraq-e-musavvir thay
Jo shakl nazr na aaye tasveer nazr aayee!'
— Mir Taqi Mir
Delhi By Heart is a fascinating book by Raza Rumi, a Pakistani chronicler and now among many others whom I have read and enjoyed over the years as they assess and re-assess Delhi with all its layers, its history, social and political background that shaped and developed the very core.
I went into this book with extreme curiosity on what a Pakistani Traveller would think of Delhi and though I was taken aback with the heavy political stance that sort of deviated from the subject but regardless it was a welcoming reassessment. Overall adds to an intimate encounter with the city that grows with my personal 'Delhi' collection in books.
August 12, 2013
I don't write reviews. Not because I'm lazy but because I jealously guard my impressions about a book. The sheer joy and unbounded wonder, a good book can evoke, is something I don't want to share with anyone. Not ever. But then there are some books which lead you on such an out-worldly journey through times and ages, through myths and fables, through belief and doubt, that you can barely hold yourself from shouting out praises. There are some books that are meant to be read by everyone. None are to be left behind.
Raza Rumi's Delhi by Heart, took me on a journey through the ages. It introduced me to the origins of the native religions of India, to the timeless wisdom of upanishads, to the wisdom of Rgveda, to the epics of purhanas. This is not just a travelogue, nor is it just random ramblings of an erudite traveller. Its a history of a city that had its origins in the ancient settlement of Indraprastha and that still lives as a teeming metropolis and the capital of the world's largest democracy. Rumi touches multiple aspects of this city of the legends, from its sufis to the literati and poets. From the culinary history of 'dilli' to the 'daastaan gous' and street artists. The surest sign of a great book is that it leads you on tangents, it forces you to edit your reading list and leaves you with a year's worth of material to explore and enjoy. Delhi by Heart, introduced me to Ayesha Jalal's treatise on the partition (The Sole Spokesman). It re-introduced me to Quratulain Haider's masterpiece novels and to Sarmad Shaheed's 'ruba'is'. From Ustad Daaman (the people's poet who settled in Lahore) to Mir Baqir Ali (the last daastaan gou of Delhi) - Delhi by Heart will lead you on unforgettable journeys and leave you yearning for more.
Excellent read!
Raza Rumi's Delhi by Heart, took me on a journey through the ages. It introduced me to the origins of the native religions of India, to the timeless wisdom of upanishads, to the wisdom of Rgveda, to the epics of purhanas. This is not just a travelogue, nor is it just random ramblings of an erudite traveller. Its a history of a city that had its origins in the ancient settlement of Indraprastha and that still lives as a teeming metropolis and the capital of the world's largest democracy. Rumi touches multiple aspects of this city of the legends, from its sufis to the literati and poets. From the culinary history of 'dilli' to the 'daastaan gous' and street artists. The surest sign of a great book is that it leads you on tangents, it forces you to edit your reading list and leaves you with a year's worth of material to explore and enjoy. Delhi by Heart, introduced me to Ayesha Jalal's treatise on the partition (The Sole Spokesman). It re-introduced me to Quratulain Haider's masterpiece novels and to Sarmad Shaheed's 'ruba'is'. From Ustad Daaman (the people's poet who settled in Lahore) to Mir Baqir Ali (the last daastaan gou of Delhi) - Delhi by Heart will lead you on unforgettable journeys and leave you yearning for more.
Excellent read!
October 9, 2013
An absolute necessity in every Pakistanis bag when going to Delhi.
According to Raza, denial of shared history and excessive vendetta are the two fundamental behaviours which are a constant threat to the relationship between both India and Pakistan. Raza has approached this exact relationship by focusing on shared history, common culture, and similar religion, in this brilliant travelogue, which should accompany every Pakistani travelling to Delhi. The book is replete with often subtle and direct to shared tastes in music, food, flora and fauna, and most of all religious flavour. Raza has tried to emphasise the importance of syncretistic based Sufi form of Islam as the the dominant and once all prevailing variant in India before the huge influx of petro dollars arrived from a Wahabi Saudi Arabia, especially in Pakistan.
The intention is great but entirely romantic in my opinion as money is an all powerful agent especially in plutocratic based nations of India and Pakistan. If Sufism has receded against the rise of Wahhabism then some fault must lie in its form as well. Otherwise why would any Sufi be attracted by a dry and tasteless Wahabi doctrine? The truth of the matter is that since a long time, we have hardly had any great Sufi masters anywhere near the likes of Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia in either India or Pakistan, thus leaving a huge vacuum for Wahabi Islam as the vanguard of Indo-Pakistani Islam. Also Sufism is gravitating towards the West as well where the focus tends to be on the individual rather than any living master. This makes perfect sense to me as the cornerstone of Sufism is deep knowledge, which is a lot more prevalent in the rich and diverse West. Thus the real bemoaning factor in the demise of Sufic Islam in Indo-Pakistan is lack of proper knowledge, for while knowledge cannot compete with money directly it can definitely better it in contentment and fulfilment, something money left on its own, can never hope to achieve.
Nevertheless, I thoroughly enjoyed the once rich depiction of political and spiritual in Delhi. Both are symbiotic aren't they? Isn't it why Islam always seemed to follow in the wake of its conquests? Whatever the case maybe, this great era of Islamic power in Delhi must be celebrated in Pakistan. The mighty Muslim heroes have to be rekindled and illuminated for the Pakistanis have to learn a great deal from them. After All how do you explain a Muslim minority ruling a Hindu majority for so long in India if it was not due to the idealistic characters of these heroes? Raza touches on the two versions of history being taught in India and Pakistan which are more designed to appease the nation states rather than being objective in nature. For instance in Pakistan, Ghaznavi is feated for attacking Somnath for 17 times. The fact that he goes back to his home in Ghazni every time is hardly talked about. Should not the focus be more on icons like Babur who actually committed to India thus leaving a lasting legacy?
Delhi belongs to Nizam Aulia for sure, especially for every Sufi like me therefore I loved the mystical sound bites of Nizam's era, especially his relationship with the Turk of India, Amir Khusraw. Raza has to be credited for presenting this relationship similar to the famous Rumi Tabrez friendship. The major difference is that Tabrez disappeared from Rumi's life while Khusraw and Nizam remained inseparable all of their lives.
Raza also touches on the pretty dismal state of Muslims in India who have yet to develop any political affiliation in the secularist parties in India. Their numbers in all fields makes pretty poor statistics, barring only of Indian prisons, where they are over represented and constitute nearly 35 percent!
When it comes to food, perhaps the best placed person to analyse and criticise the rich flavours of Delhi has to be an authentic Lahori like Raza Rumi. His one chapter on Delhi street food was a mouth watering and tummy rumbling experience for a poor starved Pakistani expat like me living in a thoroughly bland UK. It made me want to jump on a plane and get to old Delhi's famous Karim restaurant immediately. Unfortunately most Lahoris have a huge weakness for sumptuous food, which I share proudly with author.
All in all this book is an essential item of every Pakistani visiting Delhi.
According to Raza, denial of shared history and excessive vendetta are the two fundamental behaviours which are a constant threat to the relationship between both India and Pakistan. Raza has approached this exact relationship by focusing on shared history, common culture, and similar religion, in this brilliant travelogue, which should accompany every Pakistani travelling to Delhi. The book is replete with often subtle and direct to shared tastes in music, food, flora and fauna, and most of all religious flavour. Raza has tried to emphasise the importance of syncretistic based Sufi form of Islam as the the dominant and once all prevailing variant in India before the huge influx of petro dollars arrived from a Wahabi Saudi Arabia, especially in Pakistan.
The intention is great but entirely romantic in my opinion as money is an all powerful agent especially in plutocratic based nations of India and Pakistan. If Sufism has receded against the rise of Wahhabism then some fault must lie in its form as well. Otherwise why would any Sufi be attracted by a dry and tasteless Wahabi doctrine? The truth of the matter is that since a long time, we have hardly had any great Sufi masters anywhere near the likes of Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia in either India or Pakistan, thus leaving a huge vacuum for Wahabi Islam as the vanguard of Indo-Pakistani Islam. Also Sufism is gravitating towards the West as well where the focus tends to be on the individual rather than any living master. This makes perfect sense to me as the cornerstone of Sufism is deep knowledge, which is a lot more prevalent in the rich and diverse West. Thus the real bemoaning factor in the demise of Sufic Islam in Indo-Pakistan is lack of proper knowledge, for while knowledge cannot compete with money directly it can definitely better it in contentment and fulfilment, something money left on its own, can never hope to achieve.
Nevertheless, I thoroughly enjoyed the once rich depiction of political and spiritual in Delhi. Both are symbiotic aren't they? Isn't it why Islam always seemed to follow in the wake of its conquests? Whatever the case maybe, this great era of Islamic power in Delhi must be celebrated in Pakistan. The mighty Muslim heroes have to be rekindled and illuminated for the Pakistanis have to learn a great deal from them. After All how do you explain a Muslim minority ruling a Hindu majority for so long in India if it was not due to the idealistic characters of these heroes? Raza touches on the two versions of history being taught in India and Pakistan which are more designed to appease the nation states rather than being objective in nature. For instance in Pakistan, Ghaznavi is feated for attacking Somnath for 17 times. The fact that he goes back to his home in Ghazni every time is hardly talked about. Should not the focus be more on icons like Babur who actually committed to India thus leaving a lasting legacy?
Delhi belongs to Nizam Aulia for sure, especially for every Sufi like me therefore I loved the mystical sound bites of Nizam's era, especially his relationship with the Turk of India, Amir Khusraw. Raza has to be credited for presenting this relationship similar to the famous Rumi Tabrez friendship. The major difference is that Tabrez disappeared from Rumi's life while Khusraw and Nizam remained inseparable all of their lives.
Raza also touches on the pretty dismal state of Muslims in India who have yet to develop any political affiliation in the secularist parties in India. Their numbers in all fields makes pretty poor statistics, barring only of Indian prisons, where they are over represented and constitute nearly 35 percent!
When it comes to food, perhaps the best placed person to analyse and criticise the rich flavours of Delhi has to be an authentic Lahori like Raza Rumi. His one chapter on Delhi street food was a mouth watering and tummy rumbling experience for a poor starved Pakistani expat like me living in a thoroughly bland UK. It made me want to jump on a plane and get to old Delhi's famous Karim restaurant immediately. Unfortunately most Lahoris have a huge weakness for sumptuous food, which I share proudly with author.
All in all this book is an essential item of every Pakistani visiting Delhi.
December 16, 2020
Rumi walks through Delhi with a sharp eye, keen sense of history, secular sensibilities and - above all - a kind and inquisitive mind. There was so much to discover and learn from this book. I would recommend it for everyone, especially for all South Asian readers and especially for Delhites.
March 4, 2014
I would rate it 3.5 actually - inching towards a 4.
I enjoyed the perspective - and it opened my eyes in a lot of ways
I am so glad books like these are being written, published and being read.
I dream of being friends with our friends next door.
I dream of being able to walk across to borrow a cup a of sugar. So does Raza Rumi.
I enjoyed the perspective - and it opened my eyes in a lot of ways
I am so glad books like these are being written, published and being read.
I dream of being friends with our friends next door.
I dream of being able to walk across to borrow a cup a of sugar. So does Raza Rumi.
January 22, 2021
A rollercoster ride of culture, history, language, food, mysticism & relationships in a city that is full of energy. Raza describes the city of the cities like no one else. With beautiful and elegent writing, he takes us on a tour of a city which could be as old as time. Rich of diversity, homeland to many faiths and cultures intermingled to give a united community of love and compassion. From the sufis to the Mughals, and from prosperity to its destruction, the city goes on to live today. Go for it if you are in for a travelogue full of historical narratives and ofcourse travel stuff.
June 4, 2015
When you come across a book which has 3 subjects that you are most passionate about “Delhi, Sufism and Food”, you have to stop everything you are doing and just read. Raza Rumi’s “Delhi by Heart: Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller” is that sort of a book. The shared history, culture and food between Pakistan and India have been beautifully revived by Raza. He laments about the fact that as a country both India and Pakistan have not cared for our history and culture. As he takes us through the narrow dusty by lanes of purani (old) Delhi reminiscing about Ghalib, Mir and Urdu, one can’t help but hold his hand and let him take you in the enchanting world of Delhi that once was.
From lost conquerors to slain emperors, forgotten poets and their beloved mushairas and the revered Sufi saints, Delhi has seen it all and Raza does complete justice in making the reader fall in love with this city that has now forgotten its own grandeur. The writing is lucid and clear and his passion about his beloved Delhi is contagious.
I felt intrigued and drawn in the world that he had woven and could not keep the book down even for a few minutes. I felt more enlightened about the history of the city my parents were born in and my mother misses so much. I walked with him while he visited the dargah of “Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliyah” and when he enjoyed the delicious “Gol Gappe” at a local street food vendor in Delhi.
And the best thing that I loved about this book is the fact that it has introduced me to the amazing work of “Quratulain Haider the brilliant Urdu writer who lived and loved Delhi and a whole list of new books about this city that I have been so obsessed with myself. I would rate this book high on your reading radar if you are a Delhi lover. As Bahadur Shah Zafar’s tutor Zauq said “कौन जाए ज़ाक़ दिल्ली की गलियाँ छोड़कर” (Who would leave the streets of Delhi Zauq and go elsewhere?). I did not want this journey in the heart of Delhi to end either
From lost conquerors to slain emperors, forgotten poets and their beloved mushairas and the revered Sufi saints, Delhi has seen it all and Raza does complete justice in making the reader fall in love with this city that has now forgotten its own grandeur. The writing is lucid and clear and his passion about his beloved Delhi is contagious.
I felt intrigued and drawn in the world that he had woven and could not keep the book down even for a few minutes. I felt more enlightened about the history of the city my parents were born in and my mother misses so much. I walked with him while he visited the dargah of “Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliyah” and when he enjoyed the delicious “Gol Gappe” at a local street food vendor in Delhi.
And the best thing that I loved about this book is the fact that it has introduced me to the amazing work of “Quratulain Haider the brilliant Urdu writer who lived and loved Delhi and a whole list of new books about this city that I have been so obsessed with myself. I would rate this book high on your reading radar if you are a Delhi lover. As Bahadur Shah Zafar’s tutor Zauq said “कौन जाए ज़ाक़ दिल्ली की गलियाँ छोड़कर” (Who would leave the streets of Delhi Zauq and go elsewhere?). I did not want this journey in the heart of Delhi to end either
June 30, 2020
Fellow Readers,
Every time I complete a book I write an opinion on it, without much struggle. But ‘Delhi By Heart’ by Raza Rumi, has left me spellbound and I am struggling to start.
Where do you start from, to celebrate Delhi’s rich history; to mourn the holocaustic India’s division into two? Of the hate that has swelled by every decade. Of the constant attempt of our ‘elected’ leaders to keep us fragmented.
The city of Delhi has seen it all and continues to cry, blood. And it mourns the fact that the current generation is oblivious to the likes of Zebunissa, Sarmad Shaheed, Dara Shikoh, Qurratulain Hyder ‘Ainee Apa’ and alike.
Raza Rumi is a Pakistani journalist-writer who on his numerous voyages to Delhi has brilliantly captured this city’s essence. He is us when he is visiting the lanes of Chandni Chowk. He is us when he is relishing the famous Karim’s kebabs. Then why this unending animosity between ‘us’ and ‘them’? One of Pakistan’s prominent poets in Fehmida Riaz writes on ‘Naya Bharat’:
You turned out to be just like us;
Similarly stupid, wallowing in the past,
You’ve reached the same doorstep at last.
Your demon of religion, dances like a clown,
Whatever you do will be upside down.
You too will sit deep in thought,
Who is Hindu, who is not.
Keep repeating the mantra like a parrot,
Bharat was like the land of the brave.
It was to my greatest of fortunes (that I realise now) of having picked up this book from the much acclaimed and a young historian, Aanchal Malhotra’s read list. So it is only befitting to end by quoting her (to a response on why a Pakistani should be praised; they are the enemy; nothing good comes from them) :
“Nothing good has ever come from hating someone you don’t know or understand either. This is the kind of hate that is rooted and propagated through generations. Please try to rise above it.” 📚
Every time I complete a book I write an opinion on it, without much struggle. But ‘Delhi By Heart’ by Raza Rumi, has left me spellbound and I am struggling to start.
Where do you start from, to celebrate Delhi’s rich history; to mourn the holocaustic India’s division into two? Of the hate that has swelled by every decade. Of the constant attempt of our ‘elected’ leaders to keep us fragmented.
The city of Delhi has seen it all and continues to cry, blood. And it mourns the fact that the current generation is oblivious to the likes of Zebunissa, Sarmad Shaheed, Dara Shikoh, Qurratulain Hyder ‘Ainee Apa’ and alike.
Raza Rumi is a Pakistani journalist-writer who on his numerous voyages to Delhi has brilliantly captured this city’s essence. He is us when he is visiting the lanes of Chandni Chowk. He is us when he is relishing the famous Karim’s kebabs. Then why this unending animosity between ‘us’ and ‘them’? One of Pakistan’s prominent poets in Fehmida Riaz writes on ‘Naya Bharat’:
You turned out to be just like us;
Similarly stupid, wallowing in the past,
You’ve reached the same doorstep at last.
Your demon of religion, dances like a clown,
Whatever you do will be upside down.
You too will sit deep in thought,
Who is Hindu, who is not.
Keep repeating the mantra like a parrot,
Bharat was like the land of the brave.
It was to my greatest of fortunes (that I realise now) of having picked up this book from the much acclaimed and a young historian, Aanchal Malhotra’s read list. So it is only befitting to end by quoting her (to a response on why a Pakistani should be praised; they are the enemy; nothing good comes from them) :
“Nothing good has ever come from hating someone you don’t know or understand either. This is the kind of hate that is rooted and propagated through generations. Please try to rise above it.” 📚
September 15, 2013
Its like an account of a much awaited vacation back to one's paternal village.Have arbitrary lines on a map ever been able to divide people and cultures born out of amalgamation of centuries down the time line of a continent? This is an easy flowing interactive narration of a Pakistani traveller's journey through Delhi's roads and streets; an intimate rendevouz of dialogue,tears and smiles. Its a nostalgic re visit to episodes of the city's history which the writer tries to re constuct through remanants and monuments that survived the ravages of assaults of raids , neglect and time. I appreciate how Raza makes a conscious effort to remain unbiased, though there are subtle traces of justification about some commonly perceived grouses against the Muslim rulers.And why not?
August 30, 2020
I relished every chapter of this rather heartwarming book. For someone like me who’s lived in Delhi all their life, this book manages to tug at the right strings of my heart.
It’s a soulful trip into Delhi’s past; a past so steeped in history and culture that you never want to leave. I especially love that it reacquainted me with so many stories about the people and places I grew up knowing, and yet not knowing at all.
So many important pieces of our lives are rooted in a past that we don’t completely understand, mostly because we don’t make enough attempt to understand it well, but sometimes because a lot of the pieces have been obscured from our view. Raza’s writing puts so much into perspective and I wish I’d read this book sooner.
It’s a soulful trip into Delhi’s past; a past so steeped in history and culture that you never want to leave. I especially love that it reacquainted me with so many stories about the people and places I grew up knowing, and yet not knowing at all.
So many important pieces of our lives are rooted in a past that we don’t completely understand, mostly because we don’t make enough attempt to understand it well, but sometimes because a lot of the pieces have been obscured from our view. Raza’s writing puts so much into perspective and I wish I’d read this book sooner.
August 31, 2013
More like "from the heart", this is a lucid account of one of the oldest living capitals of the world. By no means a scholarly account this book relies on interactions on the go as its source but much less than diminishing its charm therein lies its appeal- in being a simple and passionate story which the author attempts to peel of layer by layer... It has its inaccuracies, there are better researched books on Delhi out there, but this meandering tale still holds its own... Wonder though if it appealed to me so much cause I am a Dilliwala, how the wider South Asian readership receives it would be interesting...
June 20, 2017
I love this book. Raza Rumi has given such a detailed account of the relevant history that is associated with Delhi, I wish I could transport back in time and view the splendor of this city.
If you have lived in Delhi at any point in your life then you should read this book. The everyday landmarks you may cross without giving a second thought could be of some prominent noble from back in the age.
My only regret, I can't read Urdu else would have consumed all of poems, gazals and everything written about Delhi or by its once upon a time residents.
It's a must read.
If you have lived in Delhi at any point in your life then you should read this book. The everyday landmarks you may cross without giving a second thought could be of some prominent noble from back in the age.
My only regret, I can't read Urdu else would have consumed all of poems, gazals and everything written about Delhi or by its once upon a time residents.
It's a must read.
January 27, 2025
3.75 stars.
This book is written by a liberal Pakistani author who sets out on a journey to unlearn the biases that have been systematically cultivated by the Pakistani establishment to separate itself from India. Raza Rumi, through his visits to Delhi as part of professional assignments, sheds these preconceived notions and discovers a deep, emotional connection to the city.
The book begins with the author’s exploration of the Sufi legacy in Delhi, starting with Hazrat Nizamuddin. Rumi is profoundly influenced by the philosophy of Wahdatul Wajud, which he compares to Advaita (Aham Brahmasmi). His exploration of Sufism beautifully captures its role in spreading Islam in India. From Nizamuddin East to the dargahs of Jahanara and Amir Khusrow, Rumi traces Delhi’s rich Muslim past with poetic admiration while also addressing the challenges faced in the present.
The historic sites—Mehrauli Archaeological Park, the Qutub Complex, and Shahjahanabad—are described in exquisite detail. Rumi also highlights the immense contributions of figures like Amir Khusrow, who influenced Indian classical music, and the Mughal emperors, who nurtured art forms like Dhrupad and Khayal. Women like Razia Sultana, Jahanara, Noor Jahan, and Zeb-un-Nissa are celebrated for their roles in Delhi’s cultural and political legacy.
One of the most fascinating chapters is about Delhi’s culinary history. The city’s gastronomy, shaped by Mughal influences and enriched by India’s spices, is described so vividly that you can almost taste the flavors. Rumi’s reflections on institutions like Jamia Millia Islamia and the contributions of prominent Muslims to Indian society provide valuable insights into the shared cultural fabric of India and Pakistan.
The chapter on New Delhi offers an interesting contrast: while the British Raj left behind architectural marvels, post-Independence urban development under the DDA comes across as poorly planned. Rumi’s admiration for Urdu literature shines as he discusses Qurratulain Hyder, Ghalib, and even JNU’s vibrant intellectual environment.
The book ends on a hopeful note, with Irfan Habib’s arguments for a shared culture and a wish for unity between India and Pakistan. Rumi also includes a list of recommended books on Delhi, which serves as a lovely resource for anyone who wants to dive deeper.
For me, Delhi by Heart feels like more than just a book about Delhi. It’s a heartfelt tribute to the city and an honest attempt to bridge the divide between two nations through shared history, culture, and human connections. Rumi’s writing is personal, reflective, and deeply emotional, making this book resonate with anyone who has ever fallen in love with Delhi’s chaos, beauty, and history.
This book is written by a liberal Pakistani author who sets out on a journey to unlearn the biases that have been systematically cultivated by the Pakistani establishment to separate itself from India. Raza Rumi, through his visits to Delhi as part of professional assignments, sheds these preconceived notions and discovers a deep, emotional connection to the city.
The book begins with the author’s exploration of the Sufi legacy in Delhi, starting with Hazrat Nizamuddin. Rumi is profoundly influenced by the philosophy of Wahdatul Wajud, which he compares to Advaita (Aham Brahmasmi). His exploration of Sufism beautifully captures its role in spreading Islam in India. From Nizamuddin East to the dargahs of Jahanara and Amir Khusrow, Rumi traces Delhi’s rich Muslim past with poetic admiration while also addressing the challenges faced in the present.
The historic sites—Mehrauli Archaeological Park, the Qutub Complex, and Shahjahanabad—are described in exquisite detail. Rumi also highlights the immense contributions of figures like Amir Khusrow, who influenced Indian classical music, and the Mughal emperors, who nurtured art forms like Dhrupad and Khayal. Women like Razia Sultana, Jahanara, Noor Jahan, and Zeb-un-Nissa are celebrated for their roles in Delhi’s cultural and political legacy.
One of the most fascinating chapters is about Delhi’s culinary history. The city’s gastronomy, shaped by Mughal influences and enriched by India’s spices, is described so vividly that you can almost taste the flavors. Rumi’s reflections on institutions like Jamia Millia Islamia and the contributions of prominent Muslims to Indian society provide valuable insights into the shared cultural fabric of India and Pakistan.
The chapter on New Delhi offers an interesting contrast: while the British Raj left behind architectural marvels, post-Independence urban development under the DDA comes across as poorly planned. Rumi’s admiration for Urdu literature shines as he discusses Qurratulain Hyder, Ghalib, and even JNU’s vibrant intellectual environment.
The book ends on a hopeful note, with Irfan Habib’s arguments for a shared culture and a wish for unity between India and Pakistan. Rumi also includes a list of recommended books on Delhi, which serves as a lovely resource for anyone who wants to dive deeper.
For me, Delhi by Heart feels like more than just a book about Delhi. It’s a heartfelt tribute to the city and an honest attempt to bridge the divide between two nations through shared history, culture, and human connections. Rumi’s writing is personal, reflective, and deeply emotional, making this book resonate with anyone who has ever fallen in love with Delhi’s chaos, beauty, and history.
January 4, 2021
Book review Dehli by heart.
Why do these Ants attracted toward honey?
Because of its sweet nature.
This is how Delhi attracted people toward itself some of them became the reason of destruction while some brought glory to it.
This place being a place of music, art, and mystics became city of plunder, killing and stealing.
The writer Raza Rumi, one of my favourite, when I picked his Being Pakistani and left it after turning few pages But I wanna thank myself for picking it again thus I'm here.
Picked his Dehli by heart and finished it in three days because the book was too engaging and his writing radiates cohessivness.
This travelogue which would take you to the streets of Dehli you would get vibes of being the family member of Mughals.
Maybe the mystic, spinning in your imagination, or the melancholic Ghalib and Meer crying over its destruction.
Comparing Old Dehli to the new, writer explained that how modern Dehli engulfed old monuments and glowing streets had changed to the sad and silent and what disasterous change had come in its architecture and government negligence toward it.
Morever, the story proceed with the supreme love between Nizamuddin and Khusrou and decorated chapters with thier versus.
And Shah Jahan rule of Love, music, and joyous streets to Aurangzaib strict policies which crippled art unemploying artists.
Mutiny hanging prince and kidnapping king and thier tyrrant rule to
Gandi and Jinnah and modern era novelist Quratul ain baloch and Sadia Dehlvi efforts for preservation of urdu in a state of hindi
To cuisions serving typical vegetables food
This book travelogue in nature unveild history too.
The bitter realities of Indo-Pak relation, thier reason and consequence are deeply elaborated.
5/5 loved it
Why do these Ants attracted toward honey?
Because of its sweet nature.
This is how Delhi attracted people toward itself some of them became the reason of destruction while some brought glory to it.
This place being a place of music, art, and mystics became city of plunder, killing and stealing.
The writer Raza Rumi, one of my favourite, when I picked his Being Pakistani and left it after turning few pages But I wanna thank myself for picking it again thus I'm here.
Picked his Dehli by heart and finished it in three days because the book was too engaging and his writing radiates cohessivness.
This travelogue which would take you to the streets of Dehli you would get vibes of being the family member of Mughals.
Maybe the mystic, spinning in your imagination, or the melancholic Ghalib and Meer crying over its destruction.
Comparing Old Dehli to the new, writer explained that how modern Dehli engulfed old monuments and glowing streets had changed to the sad and silent and what disasterous change had come in its architecture and government negligence toward it.
Morever, the story proceed with the supreme love between Nizamuddin and Khusrou and decorated chapters with thier versus.
And Shah Jahan rule of Love, music, and joyous streets to Aurangzaib strict policies which crippled art unemploying artists.
Mutiny hanging prince and kidnapping king and thier tyrrant rule to
Gandi and Jinnah and modern era novelist Quratul ain baloch and Sadia Dehlvi efforts for preservation of urdu in a state of hindi
To cuisions serving typical vegetables food
This book travelogue in nature unveild history too.
The bitter realities of Indo-Pak relation, thier reason and consequence are deeply elaborated.
5/5 loved it
September 3, 2020
Being a punjabi and seen the Gallis and kuchas of Delhi as a child, I have read some books on Delhi with an Indian authors lense
Had picked up this book as Raza clearly mentioned on the cover that it’s an impression of a Pakistani traveler ... and so wanted hear what our bretheren from the other side of the ill crafted British border have say about “saddi dilli”
Was not disappointed at all as the write up is very refreshing, and off course, with more of a Muslim veil; more of the tombs and mazars, bazaars and cuisine than the Indraprastha to Shahajahanabad to Dilli to New Delhi journey of the metropolis
Happy to read that Delhi and Lahore and India and Pakistan share similar traversities.
Would have loved if the quotes of Ghalib, Mir, Sarmad and scores of others would have been in Urdu and not transliterated English... the feel gets lost as English is a cold language like the cuisine
I liked the book and will keep in my shelf and not give it away to a library ..
Had picked up this book as Raza clearly mentioned on the cover that it’s an impression of a Pakistani traveler ... and so wanted hear what our bretheren from the other side of the ill crafted British border have say about “saddi dilli”
Was not disappointed at all as the write up is very refreshing, and off course, with more of a Muslim veil; more of the tombs and mazars, bazaars and cuisine than the Indraprastha to Shahajahanabad to Dilli to New Delhi journey of the metropolis
Happy to read that Delhi and Lahore and India and Pakistan share similar traversities.
Would have loved if the quotes of Ghalib, Mir, Sarmad and scores of others would have been in Urdu and not transliterated English... the feel gets lost as English is a cold language like the cuisine
I liked the book and will keep in my shelf and not give it away to a library ..
November 22, 2023
If you love Delhi, read this book. If you want to know about varied history of Delhi, read this book. If you want to explore and know more about our capital and how it came to be, do read this book! This book is a interesting amalgamation of many topics ranging from cuisines of Mughal Delhi to the bookshops of Modern Delhi, from Ghalib to students of JNU, from the art and culture and architecture of the old city of Shahjahanabad to new city of Lutyen’s Delhi. It speaks about the music that was given birth in Delhi and the cuisines that were developed here. From the pains of partition and the difference created by the government to the similarities in the culture of Pakistan and India and the warmth of common people it will make you sigh and your heart will be full. 6 stars!
August 22, 2023
Reads less like a travel log about Delhi and more like a history book focusing on Hindu Muslim brotherhood. I feel like I learned more about Indian Sufi history than how 21st century Delhi looks likes. Information was also presented in a very disorganized way, especially towards the end.
The book comes across as having a very specific audience in mind, that being more 'modern' Pakistanis and Indians. This is not necessarily to its discredit but can be off putting when you spent a good chunk of change wanting to experience such a cultural icon as Delhi but end up with a lackluster history lesson. However, it can be slightly enjoyable at times, hence the 2 stars.
The book comes across as having a very specific audience in mind, that being more 'modern' Pakistanis and Indians. This is not necessarily to its discredit but can be off putting when you spent a good chunk of change wanting to experience such a cultural icon as Delhi but end up with a lackluster history lesson. However, it can be slightly enjoyable at times, hence the 2 stars.
October 26, 2019
An interesting and must-read! A beautiful perspective of a Pakistani traveller who penned Delhi with sympathy and feeling is no doubt an interesting and unique point of view in time. Although it hearts mostly the Sufi and Mughal tradition in Delhi with only a few declarations about the earlier history of Delhi but gives a beautiful glimpse interspersed with balanced views. For a non-Delhiite like me, the book is a window to see the city in a new light. As a language, the beauty of Urdu captivates me and this book made it richer indeed which is heart-felt!!!
December 16, 2018
An insightful look into the numerous facets of Delhi's past and present - from Ghalib to Hazrat Nizamuddin. I've always enjoyed books written with an outsider's perspective, especially when it comes to Delhi. Raza's first book is a must read for all those who want to understand the many pluralities of this wonderful city. Raza's last lines are poetic and likely prophetic:
"Forgetting is a fantasy that could easily reincarnate into a haunting dream"
"Forgetting is a fantasy that could easily reincarnate into a haunting dream"
May 12, 2025
Made me fall in love with Delhi all over again. Want to roam around the streets of Delhi all the time now. Suddenly had the urge to learn Urdu and read Urdu poetry. Also feel like visiting Lahore now.
Also so relevant in recent times. How we easily dismiss our neighbouring country without realising that citizens from both countries emerge from a similar set of culture and values.
Also so relevant in recent times. How we easily dismiss our neighbouring country without realising that citizens from both countries emerge from a similar set of culture and values.
August 29, 2021
What a brilliant book, covers everything from art, history, people, architecture, food, music, poetry, books, education from a keen and learned observer of Delhi.
If I was not already madly in love with Delhi, this book inspired love in ways more than one.
If I was not already madly in love with Delhi, this book inspired love in ways more than one.
August 20, 2023
Enjoyed it . . .
September 20, 2020
“In Dino Garche Dakan Mein Hai Badi Qadr-e-Sukhan,
Kaun Jaaye ‘Zauq’ Par Dilli Ki Galiyan Chorh Kar” ~ Sheikh Ibrahim Zauq
Is Delhi a city or is it an obsession? A city that has been destroyed & rebuilt more than eight times. I have tried to find the answer to this question but have failed everytime. But books on Delhi make me feel at ease. And Raza Rumi’s book helped me explore some answers.
It was the second time that I read this book in a gap of almost two years and my understanding of it has surely changed. Tajurba I guess. ‘Delhi by heart’ takes you to a journey that not only lets you understand the grandeur of Delhi but see its importance from a Pakistani perspective. We as humans tend to forget that those who chose Pakistan too suffered at the time of Partition & the shades of Delhi can still be found in the present day Pakistan.
The book is wonderfully divided into 14 chapters, each giving you an experience longing for more. The book not only encapsulates Sufi shrines like Hazrat Nizamuddin but gives a modern outlook as to how today’s Delhi has somehow managed to hold onto its past by a dwindling thread. You’ll get to meet Ghalib, Khushwant Singh, Mir Baqar Ali, Sadia Dehlvi and many more in places even Dilli walas seem to be forgetting.
In this lockdown, when travelling has seized to exist, this book will make you travel with all its heart. Maybe that’s what travelling is suppose to do right?
Kaun Jaaye ‘Zauq’ Par Dilli Ki Galiyan Chorh Kar” ~ Sheikh Ibrahim Zauq
Is Delhi a city or is it an obsession? A city that has been destroyed & rebuilt more than eight times. I have tried to find the answer to this question but have failed everytime. But books on Delhi make me feel at ease. And Raza Rumi’s book helped me explore some answers.
It was the second time that I read this book in a gap of almost two years and my understanding of it has surely changed. Tajurba I guess. ‘Delhi by heart’ takes you to a journey that not only lets you understand the grandeur of Delhi but see its importance from a Pakistani perspective. We as humans tend to forget that those who chose Pakistan too suffered at the time of Partition & the shades of Delhi can still be found in the present day Pakistan.
The book is wonderfully divided into 14 chapters, each giving you an experience longing for more. The book not only encapsulates Sufi shrines like Hazrat Nizamuddin but gives a modern outlook as to how today’s Delhi has somehow managed to hold onto its past by a dwindling thread. You’ll get to meet Ghalib, Khushwant Singh, Mir Baqar Ali, Sadia Dehlvi and many more in places even Dilli walas seem to be forgetting.
In this lockdown, when travelling has seized to exist, this book will make you travel with all its heart. Maybe that’s what travelling is suppose to do right?
January 19, 2017
Twin hearts of the Indian subcontinent, Lahore and Delhi, continue to beat together despite the Radcliffe Line drawn in 1947. The intended cultural, communal and political divide seems to have widened fanned by pseudo nationalism. Raza Rumi , Pakistani diplomat explores the nooks and corners of old Delhi, digging into its bloodied past he examines the various historical dynasties that came, conquered, ruled and toppled mysteriously. Rumi explores the city, feeling at home in modern Delhi, despite the jingoistic political clashes that continue since 1947. Rumi's walks into the Sufi Dargah of Nizamuddin Auliya help him understand the 'Ganga Jumuna tahzeeb'the musical tradition springing forth , the love for Hindustani that lives on and common cultural threads that live and breathe despite that noxious political fumes. Modern Delhi threatens to choke the old Delhi which is reminiscent of a beautiful past, he is amazed the plurality and harmony that might nurse and heal the wounds of the past .
March 2, 2014
This is an interesting book, and very well written indeed. This is one from the heart, and so the book has been aptly titled. Raza Rumi has written the book with a great deal of sympathy and feeling for Delhi, and this shows in the way that the book is written.
Maybe because of his background, maybe because he is Pakistani, but he did manage to meet a lot of interesting people, who would otherwise be generally inaccessible.
There is a lot of focus on the Sufi and Mughal traditions in the city, and less on the earlier history of the city. This is understandable, especially as the Mughal part of the history does dominate Delhi. Some mention is given to the North Western parts of Delhi, however, I disagree with his assessment of Lutyens Delhi. However, this is a matter of personal opinion.
I like his writing style, which is simple and heart-felt.
A very good book indeed.
Maybe because of his background, maybe because he is Pakistani, but he did manage to meet a lot of interesting people, who would otherwise be generally inaccessible.
There is a lot of focus on the Sufi and Mughal traditions in the city, and less on the earlier history of the city. This is understandable, especially as the Mughal part of the history does dominate Delhi. Some mention is given to the North Western parts of Delhi, however, I disagree with his assessment of Lutyens Delhi. However, this is a matter of personal opinion.
I like his writing style, which is simple and heart-felt.
A very good book indeed.
August 11, 2014
It’s an important book with an interesting point of view-a Pakistani Muslim travels to so-called secular India and is enamored by Mughal India-and perhaps a timely one. Yet, I wish the author was not so influenced by William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns. That book is a clear model for Delhi By Heart and it proves to be its undoing. Granted, the book talks more about the Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah than Dalrymple did (When he discussion sufi saints, like Sarmad, Rumi is at his best), yet, the book cannot rise above being derivative.
I think the book needed some massive editing. The language is stilted and the movement between past and present tense doesn’t quite work. What’s more, there are repetitions, which a good editor should have noticed.
Yet, I would recommend the book for its unique point of view.
I think the book needed some massive editing. The language is stilted and the movement between past and present tense doesn’t quite work. What’s more, there are repetitions, which a good editor should have noticed.
Yet, I would recommend the book for its unique point of view.
June 18, 2015
This book was referred to me by Vikramjit Singh Rooprai when I proclaimed myself to be a Delhi fanatic during a discussion. His recommendation created a hype inside me and the book truly lived up to it.
I would blindly recommend this gem to anybody who is even mildly interested in Mughals, history or Delhi. The book not only discussed the history of the city in detail, but also explained the its impact in the history of India and Pakistan.
The book covers hidden or relatively lesser known architectural wonders, political and social significance, rulers, fate, contribution to the culinary world and many more aspects of my favorite place. The book rightly depicts Delhi as a living soul. A beautiful and loving lady who has been ruled over, ruined and misunderstood by general population.
A must read.
I would blindly recommend this gem to anybody who is even mildly interested in Mughals, history or Delhi. The book not only discussed the history of the city in detail, but also explained the its impact in the history of India and Pakistan.
The book covers hidden or relatively lesser known architectural wonders, political and social significance, rulers, fate, contribution to the culinary world and many more aspects of my favorite place. The book rightly depicts Delhi as a living soul. A beautiful and loving lady who has been ruled over, ruined and misunderstood by general population.
A must read.
October 17, 2013
Found some useful nuggets of historical information. The author's passion and completeness in understanding Delhi from multiple angles is refreshing. Not an easy task of connecting the food, history, prominent people past n present, architecture past and present, books, etc of Delhi in a single book - very comprehensive. One would have wished for a little more organisation though, sometimes there is too much meandering and repititon.
October 23, 2014
well researched and i like how he has combined this with his knowledge on subjects like poetry etc to make it richer. if it was not for a few occasions when the read got a bit heavy and distracted from the subject at hand, I would give it a 4.
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